Best Synthetic

[mdisher]

I like Bacon.

I like Pie...

Pie is good too, but you can put Bacon on anything and make it better

 

[warsw]

Well sheeee-ut! That synthetic stuff of which you speak must be MAGIC! I wonder what else it can do? Can it cure TWN' predelection for Gerbils? Iggy's rudeness? :lol: Radman's warped wit? And most of all, will it keep my FJR from crashing no matter how I ride it?

The stuff is MAGIC! If TWN, Iggy and Radman drink enough of it, they will be cured. As far as crashing your bike, your on your own. Even "Magic" can only do so much :lol: .

 

[Groo]

Pie is good too, but you can put Bacon on anything and make it better

It doesn't make Pie any better....

 

[mdisher]

Pie is good too, but you can put Bacon on anything and make it better

It doesn't make Pie any better....

I dunno, I've seen some pie that could have benefited from a little bacon.

 

[Groo]

Pie is good too, but you can put Bacon on anything and make it better

It doesn't make Pie any better....

I dunno, I've seen some pie that could have benefited from a little bacon.

Well, yeah, but it would probably marginally improve the taste of a **** sandwich too... that's not saying much... seems like you need a better quality of pie... trust me... a quality pie is better sans bacon.... :lol:

 

[jestal]

gone

 

[warsw]

Spare me the claims of the synthetic marketiers..... If anyone has any data showing that synthetic lubricants "run cooler" I would love to see it.
I have personally done a fair amount of engine and vehicle cooling testing over the past few decades and have seen numerous comparisons of conventional vs. synthetic lubricants in rear axles (hypoid gears), transmissions (manaul and automatics) and engine oil. They run the same temperature within test repeatability. Period.

Synthetics are often spec'd in situations where the particular application might exceed the normal operating temperature of conventional lubricants. This leads to the belief that the synthetic was spec'd so that the unit would run cooler. Not the case. It is purely a preventative measure of the operating temperature with either lubricant to spec one that would withstand the temperature.

Tests run by synthetic marketiers that "prove" otherwise are very very suspect a done in that fashion to tempt you to buy their product. Like the Amsoil "4 ball wear test". Some of the better cutting fluids on the market (like TapEze and such) will also do very well on the "4 ball wear test." Think they would make good engine oil?

The temp drop was done on national TV using the rear axle, transfer case and transmissiom on a chevy 4x4 PU. It was there for the world to see. You should have seen it. I have also seen it personally in industry. It is true. I have seen it in "every" case, not just some, when you switch to a synthetic oil of the same spec. the machine, what ever it may be, "runs cooler".

There are a lot of oils that do well in the "4 ball wear test" that would not make a good motor oil but wouldn't you think that this would also be a good thing in "motor oil.

Wake up dude. The rest of the world knows synthetic oils are better. Industry is switching over to it. The auto industry is switching over to it and even the motorcycle industry is switching over to synthetic. How come you can't see it.

 

[Rickster]

gotta do it...

i don't think jestal is saying that synthetic isn't better (although I'm certainly not speaking for him), it's just that it doesn't matter in an FJR if it's changed when it should be -- regardless if it's in the engine or final drive.

Clearly -- PAO based synthetics (not sure of the cooked Castrol Syntec crap) will not loose any viscosity due to mechanical sheering of the polymeric additives to petroleum based oils, as PAO doesn't need them.

Clearly -- the amount of additives to remove the nitric acid formed during combustion (such as calcium) are higher in synthetics (but purely because the cost is higher -- there is a higher amount of additives.)

So -- synthetics will last longer, survive higher temperatures.

So -- the point is -- dino oil, changed at proper intervals, will work just as well as synthetic.

for example: Changing your AMSOIL (a good oil by the way, but I don't use it) synthetic every 500 miles is just as much of a waste of money as switching to $5/quart synthetic from dino when you religiously change it every 3K miles.

YMMV --

oh -- and BTW -- I actually did instrument 3 different gear boxes, and the operating temperature was the same regardless of the oil type (same weight used).

also BTW -- I use Mobil-1 MX4T and full synthetic in all my vehicles -- it makes me feel good even though I know it doesn't matter.

 

[warsw]

oh -- and BTW -- I actually did instrument 3 different gear boxes, and the operating temperature was the same regardless of the oil type (same weight used).

I have tested 100s always with the same results, lower temps. Did you do this test while they were under load?

 

[jestal]

gone

 

[Rickster]

oh -- and BTW -- I actually did instrument 3 different gear boxes, and the operating temperature was the same regardless of the oil type (same weight used).

I have tested 100s always with the same results, lower temps. Did you do this test while they were under load?

yes. under load. 2 weeks regular oil, 2 weeks synthetic. no diff in temp.

 

[twowheelnut]

Wait a minute... I've heard this before...

"Runs cooler!"

"Tastes great!"

:****:

 

[HaulinAshe]

In summary... it's the people that are spending their time replying to "best oil" threads, rather than taking the time to change their oil as scheduled, that have something to be concerned about.

Hmmmm.... new term, "Typosyntheticlubritosis" - the failure of all premium grade lubricants induced by ignoring scheduled oil changes in order to spend more time on NEPRT responses.

:grin: :help: :laughingsmiley:

 

[twowheelnut]

In summary... it's the people that are spending their time replying to "best oil" threads, rather than taking the time to change their oil as scheduled, that have something to be concerned about.
Hmmmm.... new term, "Typosyntheticlubritosis" - the failure of all premium grade lubricants induced by ignoring scheduled oil changes in order to spend more time on NEPRT responses.

:grin: :help: :laughingsmiley:

:good: :lol:

 

[Rickster]

actually -- i think more people spend their time in lawsuits agains the companies that make the claims.

Just google oil additive lawsuite Clicky

and you'll find that 100% of the additive marketers have been sued and lost (can't backup claims) zMax, etc.

 

[warsw]

The temp drop was done on national TV using the rear axle, transfer case and transmissiom on a chevy 4x4 PU. It was there for the world to see. You should have seen it. I have also seen it personally in industry. It is true. I have seen it in "every" case, not just some, when you switch to a synthetic oil of the same spec. the machine, what ever it may be, "runs cooler".

There are a lot of oils that do well in the "4 ball wear test" that would not make a good motor oil but wouldn't you think that this would also be a good thing in "motor oil.

Wake up dude. The rest of the world knows synthetic oils are better. Industry is switching over to it. The auto industry is switching over to it and even the motorcycle industry is switching over to synthetic. How come you can't see it.

Show me examples of where the industry is "switching over" to synthetics and explain to me why, specifically. I doubt you know.

I worked for a Chevron refinery for over 35yrs. I was the head instrument teck and Forman of the electrical dept. I didn't actually pour the oil in the machinery but I did install the Instrumentation for monitoring it. Temperature is one of the parameters we monitored.

We had a rotary air-compressor that we couldn't keep on line during the summer because it would shut down due to high temp (210deg F) it normally would run at 180deg. The vender we got the air-compressor from suggested using a synthetic oil (same spec). We always used our own oil (An oil company and all). But we tried it anyway. "Guess what" all of a sudden the air-compressor would stay on line even in the summer. It now would run at 180deg year around.

That got us thinking. Some of our gear boxes on our distillation tower feed pumps were running so hot that we would only get about a year between rebuilds so we tried Synthetic oil in them. In some of the gearboxes we would see as much as a 50deg temp drop and we would get up to three years between rebuilds and some of those were just for preventive maintenance, they were still working. "This was a big savings" We then started changing to synthetic oil in all of our critical pumps and gearboxes at their next maintenance interval (same results).

I was instrumental in this change over. I got to watch it happen. Chevron is just one industry to make the change. This was years ago.

In the auto industry even you have seen this change and in the motorcycle industry the change is showing up (HD for one). I'm sure you have seen this too.

I know you are trying to put me on the spot but all you really have to do is open your eyes and you will see it for yourself.

 

[twowheelnut]

I'm gonna start a poll entitled: What do you drink while posting?

Snicker.

:lol:

 

[tripletango]

I'm gonna start a poll entitled: What do you drink while posting?
Snicker.

:lol:

Quadruple distilled Vodka with a 50/50 mix of OJ and regular tonic. Makes me run cooler. The 5 times distilled Vodka is just unnecessary and a waste of money! However the triple distilled stuff is cheaper so it can't be better so I stay away from that etc.etc. :yahoo:

More oil data

There is also a link to an oil change article for the 1000DS Ducati motor, bloody hell it makes you dam glad that the FJR is so easy!

 

[afterburn]

Well, for me it has been simple. Back in the day when I had my old trusty CBR1000F I used to run dyno. This bike had a lot of miles on the odo, so the tolerances had probably been stretched a bit. After a oil change with dyno oil, it would take about a 1000 miles for the engine to start making little mechanical noise it didn't make with fresh oil.

Now this bike used oil to, so at that time it was also about nessessary to add a ¼ liter of oil. After adding the oil, the engine was quiet again. About 500 miles later it would start making noises again.

I switched that bike to full synth, same viscosity. Never heard noises from the engine again between 6,000 miles oil changes. Of course it still needed a little oil now and then.

To me, it is pretty clear that dyno oil will be sheared to bits within 1000 miles if it is running in a gearbox like most motorcycles. This has also been proven on various reputable websites over the years. Unless you want to change your oil every 1000 miles, do not use dyno. It is crap. Dyno does not like gearboxes.

Now if you ride a beemer for instance, which has a seperate gearbox with its own oil like a car, you may get away with it. There is much less shearing then.

 

[evil_henchman]

Well, for me it has been simple. Back in the day when I had my old trusty CBR1000F I used to run dyno. This bike had a lot of miles on the odo, so the tolerances had probably been stretched a bit. After a oil change with dyno oil, it would take about a 1000 miles for the engine to start making little mechanical noise it didn't make with fresh oil.
Now this bike used oil to, so at that time it was also about nessessary to add a ¼ liter of oil. After adding the oil, the engine was quiet again. About 500 miles later it would start making noises again.

I switched that bike to full synth, same viscosity. Never heard noises from the engine again between 6,000 miles oil changes. Of course it still needed a little oil now and then.

To me, it is pretty clear that dyno oil will be sheared to bits within 1000 miles if it is running in a gearbox like most motorcycles. This has also been proven on various reputable websites over the years. Unless you want to change your oil every 1000 miles, do not use dyno. It is crap. Dyno does not like gearboxes.

Now if you ride a beemer for instance, which has a seperate gearbox with its own oil like a car, you may get away with it. There is much less shearing then.

That's especially noticable on dirt bikes with a typical oil system capacity of 1.5 liters or so. My shifting goes to hell in a couple of hours with anything but my favorite synthetic oil on my dirt machines. Consistency is my big rub with dino oil. It's been well established even on this forum that gasoline quality can vary wildly and there are a lot more people watching for bad gas than there are watching for motor oil quality. And even with all those people watching, I've screwed up more than my share of gas at the refinery and seen it get sold. Anybody who thinks the same thing doesn't happen with motor oil (only worse) is fooling themselves. Dino oil base stocks vary like crazy. A recipie that works with one run won't even come close on the next and believe me when I say oil companies only spend so much time and effort on a given batch of motor oil. Industrial oils are different. End users do oil analysis, the oil companies know this, and you can bet it's going to be in spec when it goes out the door which is why it's more expensive. Not so with motor oils. If an off spec batch of motor oil gets bottled up and sold to some cut rate outfit like say, Walmart, who's gonna know? I'll tell you who, nobody that's who and it happens all the time. Synthetic base stocks are exactly the same every time, that's the whole point. The same recipie for a given blend will nail the spec every time. It boils down to you get what you pay for.