Most excellent job on the write-up Howie. Should I ever need to do something like this, you just made it a hell of a lot easier for a virgin like me.
Thank you, sir.
So how do you properly adjust a 'manual CCT'?
I'll have a proper answer for you in a week or so.
All kidding aside, the machining on the A.P.E. unit is first rate. The threads in the CCT body look like they were cut with a laser and the adjuster screws in and out like silk panties sliding down a supermodel's leg. Smoooooth. (Didja like that analogy?)
Although I haven't installed the motor and run it yet, after getting everything ready to be sealed up, I did a little experimenting with the adjuster. Backed it off just enough to be able to wiggle the adjustment guide fore-and-aft. Then tightened it up as far as I could just using my fingertips. I could definitely feel the "point of no return" where the adjusting cam hits the chain guide. Then attempted to wiggle the guide fore-and-aft. Wasn't able to. Turned the screw out 1 turn, and COULD feel the slack in the guide. Screw it back in with only my fingers as far as it would go, and no play. I really think "adjustment by fingertip" is the way to go with this manual CCT, since it's so easy to turn, and you simply can't grab the adjusting screw hard enough, or turn it hard enough using only your fingertips, to overtighten the chain, at least without slicing up your fingertips on the threads.
Of course, this is all based on observation. I can give positive feedback when it's running, but based on my observation, this is how to adjust it. Certainly no reason to crank it in with a screwdriver.
I know you are freaked out by the FJR's stock CCT, but I got 110k out of my first, and currently have 100k on my second with no noise. Definitely one of the 'weak links' of the FJR, but I don't think all motors are doomed to self-implode. So I am just wondering how much of a benefit the manual CCT is?
You're 100% on the money. LOTS of folks have reported chain noise that was fixed with a replacement CCT, and only 3 forum members have reported grenaded motors due to faulty CCTs -- Me, Ionbeam and Patriot. Three instances of destruction doesn't signal a trend. The biggest issue I have with the OEM CCT is that it is NOT a Zero-Return design. That's the big problem with it. Once the chain starts slapping, that signals the adjustment spring has reached "end of life" in the CCT, since it's no longer extending.
The benefit of the manual is you can extend the plunger to take out the slack and LOCK IT DOWN. You can't do that with the OEM. Someone who's not familiar with the real failing of the OEM design (owner or dealer tech) could easily quiet the noise down with a quick twist of the OEM plunger with a screwdriver, not knowing that there's nothing left in the spring's tension to maintain the plunger at its new depth, it could screw itself back out to the position it was when it started making noise, leaving too much slack in the chain and disaster occurs.
Not to say the manual is foolproof.....a hamfisted owner or mechanic might leave the locknut loose, which would allow the same scenario to occur. However, with proper, and simple precautions, it shouldn't happen. Make sure it's tight, and put a drop of blue locktite on the threads.
Unless I screw the pooch putting everything back together, I'm confident my "new" motor will be running for many miles and months to come. Sometimes knowledge is a dangerous thing, in that what I've learned about the OEM CCT, I'd be scared spitless knowing that little $75 part was the "thin blue line" between happy motoring and expensive disaster.
I have absolute faith that should something disastrous occur mechanically with my Feej, it WON'T be the manual CCT's fault.
'Howie
