TriggerT
Mr. Impatient
Hmm...the Soltek LED's are rated at 2880 lumens, and the Kristas are rated at 2100 lumens. Seems like a significant enough increase that it should be taken into consideration.
Current top of the line Auxiliary light set up?
- Thread starter TriggerT
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Slosey
Well-known member
Like I say, love to have them but can't afford. Two 24w LEDs with 3way dimmer and a switch was $170...ADV Forum discount.
BTW I meant to say the Kristas are 2100 lumens each vs 1500 lumens...not $2100.
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Duster19
Well-known member
How much real difference would one see from 1500 lumens compared to 2100 lumens? We are talking about $450 dollar difference ($140 plus shipping for what I want. Compared to Clearwater's $600).
Dave
Dave
Patriot
Isabella is Lazarus
eh...lumens are like decibels...companys pretty much make it up as they go and/or don't advertise the no standards test methods
the Clearwaters are basically warrantied for life unless you hit them with a hammer on purpose or something
the Glendas were run on a 24 hour race bike event (before the Kristas came to market) and the bike crashed
there's video of that side's Glenda bounching down the track and later being reattached to the bike and working perfectly
the Clearwaters are basically warrantied for life unless you hit them with a hammer on purpose or something
the Glendas were run on a 24 hour race bike event (before the Kristas came to market) and the bike crashed
there's video of that side's Glenda bounching down the track and later being reattached to the bike and working perfectly
JamesK
Got to ride
IMHO, given the great performance of the Soltek Fuego HIDs, a big part of which is a result of the lenses, one would assume that Baja Designs put some of that lens know-how into their LED based Solteks. From personal observation the standard type LED lights whilst putting out impressive amounts of light, do lack a bit in the lens department so they tend to mostly just flood the area. Based on the description of the LED Solteks, with various types of lenses being available and easily swappable it sounds like these not only emit more lumens but also direct the light better than most other LED lights on the market.
Damn, at this rate I'm going to sell myself on a set of these
TriggerT
Mr. Impatient
Despite the price, I was looking at the Soltek LED lights. Then I realized how much the things weigh, 4 pounds, 3 Ounces. That is almost double what the Fuego's weigh at 2 pounds 6 Ounces. Considering the problems some people have had with the sub-frame cracking when using the Fuego's I think the Soltek LED's would have to be taken out of any consideration.
TriggerT
Mr. Impatient
FWIW, I just called Clearwater, and I was told the Krista's are only 15 ounces a piece. If funds were unlimited, you could mount multiple sets of the Krista's and still have way less weight.
Hawkerplt
Well-known member
I have the Glendas and love em. Clearwater customer support is fantastic as well! The Krista's are next as soon as $$$ permits. Spent too much on dirt bike riding this summer. But, had a hoot! :clapping:
bramfrank
BramFrank
Said it before. I'll say it again. For less money you can buy the Hella Micro DE Xenons.
Mine were crashed - the bike didn't make it and one of the magnesium housings shattered to tiny bits. The other survived and is being used as a(n admittedly way too bright) work light to this day.
Support? Who needs support with HIDs? If the Ballast is good and the bulb is good. Apply power and gets LOTS of light:
Lumens are NOT made up, by the way. They are a scientifically defined unit of measure. It is a measure of the honesty of the vendor when you can trust their claims - I'd say that 2100 lumens is about right for the Clearwaters, having seen them - but a 4200K D2S is a 3200 lumen device - that's yet another 50% brighter than the LED fixture.
Mine were crashed - the bike didn't make it and one of the magnesium housings shattered to tiny bits. The other survived and is being used as a(n admittedly way too bright) work light to this day.
Support? Who needs support with HIDs? If the Ballast is good and the bulb is good. Apply power and gets LOTS of light:
Lumens are NOT made up, by the way. They are a scientifically defined unit of measure. It is a measure of the honesty of the vendor when you can trust their claims - I'd say that 2100 lumens is about right for the Clearwaters, having seen them - but a 4200K D2S is a 3200 lumen device - that's yet another 50% brighter than the LED fixture.
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slapnpop
Rest in Peace our Forum Founder
Lumens aren't a measure of usable light. Lumens are measurement of how much light the element is producing, without regard to output pattern.
You should be more interested in the lux measurements of a light at a known distance. This is the measurement of light falling on a target, which is what matters in the real world.
A 2200 Lumen light could outperform a 2800 Lumen light is the shape of the output is better/more usable for our purposes.
You should be more interested in the lux measurements of a light at a known distance. This is the measurement of light falling on a target, which is what matters in the real world.
A 2200 Lumen light could outperform a 2800 Lumen light is the shape of the output is better/more usable for our purposes.
Duster19
Well-known member
If you had to decide what would you go with in my situation?
Current set up so you know what kind of light output I'm already getting.
Before the HID kit, my PIAA's rocked. Now they kind of just blend in. I probably have more light then before, but when I turn on the Aux. lights I just don't get that WOW feeling anymore. I do, however, really like how the HID lights work when I turn the PIAA's off. I use to get a really dark feeling when turning them off. My PIAA's are also watt hogs, compared to the amount of light I'm getting.
1. HID kit in place of stock lights
2. PIAA 910's with 35W bulbs
Options with price.
1. Clearwater Krista's (2100 lumens) and warranted for life about $550 with GB pricing.
2. Advrider lights (1500 lumens). I read where the seller has replaced one set without questions, so decent support. $140
3. Soltek HID. Well, known and around $650
4. China knock offs. Not sure, I thought the were around $200 a piece.
I also know there is a lot of variables to this question, but I was wondering what most would opt. for.
Thanks,
Dave
UPDATE with more information of what gear I'm running.
Escort 8500
Garmin 2730
Electorsport Stator (with 25k and still working great)
Datel
I run my Gerbings liner and T5 gloves most of the winter. When I run my PIAA's only, I'm down from 14.1 to 13.5. So this leaves me with about .3 for heated gear (13.2-13.3 is what most consider gray area).
Not really concerned with running them during the daylight. I already have a switch that allows me to run them with low beams only and can move switch so that they turn on with high beam switch. So, either upgrade will run off this same switch. Have no plans to run Aux. lights during the day at this time.
How long would the HID's take to turn back on when I switch from High Beam to Low Beam and back? I know they take a little while to warm up (my HID kit is like that), but once they are on do they switch back and forth quicker?
Current set up so you know what kind of light output I'm already getting.
Before the HID kit, my PIAA's rocked. Now they kind of just blend in. I probably have more light then before, but when I turn on the Aux. lights I just don't get that WOW feeling anymore. I do, however, really like how the HID lights work when I turn the PIAA's off. I use to get a really dark feeling when turning them off. My PIAA's are also watt hogs, compared to the amount of light I'm getting.
1. HID kit in place of stock lights
2. PIAA 910's with 35W bulbs
Options with price.
1. Clearwater Krista's (2100 lumens) and warranted for life about $550 with GB pricing.
2. Advrider lights (1500 lumens). I read where the seller has replaced one set without questions, so decent support. $140
3. Soltek HID. Well, known and around $650
4. China knock offs. Not sure, I thought the were around $200 a piece.
I also know there is a lot of variables to this question, but I was wondering what most would opt. for.
Thanks,
Dave
UPDATE with more information of what gear I'm running.
Escort 8500
Garmin 2730
Electorsport Stator (with 25k and still working great)
Datel
I run my Gerbings liner and T5 gloves most of the winter. When I run my PIAA's only, I'm down from 14.1 to 13.5. So this leaves me with about .3 for heated gear (13.2-13.3 is what most consider gray area).
Not really concerned with running them during the daylight. I already have a switch that allows me to run them with low beams only and can move switch so that they turn on with high beam switch. So, either upgrade will run off this same switch. Have no plans to run Aux. lights during the day at this time.
How long would the HID's take to turn back on when I switch from High Beam to Low Beam and back? I know they take a little while to warm up (my HID kit is like that), but once they are on do they switch back and forth quicker?
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SacramentoMike
Not Safe For Work
If you ride only on dark, empty roads: no brainer. Get the brightest light you can find.
If you like the idea of vastly improved visibility ALL the time, day or night, city riding or crossing the Alps, I'd consider a light you can TURN DOWN. Oh, and if you sometimes like to use heated gear, grips, GPS, radar detector, sat radio, etc., etc., etc., LEDs are nice.
If you like the idea of vastly improved visibility ALL the time, day or night, city riding or crossing the Alps, I'd consider a light you can TURN DOWN. Oh, and if you sometimes like to use heated gear, grips, GPS, radar detector, sat radio, etc., etc., etc., LEDs are nice.
bramfrank
BramFrank
From what I've read the Kristas are 36 watt fixtures pumping about 2100 lumens at full brightness. A D2S fixture is a 35 watt device, pumping 3200 lumens for the same power. The majority of HIDs have proper, full reflectors. The LED fixtures I've seen are pretty anemic, optics-wise.
If you have to turn them down to use your gear then don't bother because if you need the light, then cranking it down to save power really isn't an option - and if you have them cranked up you get more light from an HID.
Doesn't hurt that HIDs are less expensive.
If you have to turn them down to use your gear then don't bother because if you need the light, then cranking it down to save power really isn't an option - and if you have them cranked up you get more light from an HID.
Doesn't hurt that HIDs are less expensive.
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SacramentoMike
Not Safe For Work
Thought I was clear. You turn them down so you can use them at all. In traffic. When you can't use your nice bright HIDs because they blind the other drivers, rendering them pretty much useless except in the big dark lonely.
Duster19
Well-known member
Totally understand that. I probably should see that more as a plus for LED lights. I just have never thought of running my PIAA's during the day. Since, the are Halogens I wouldn't be blinding too many people.
Dave
Dave
bramfrank
BramFrank
Sure - if you use mis-aimed or unfocused high power lighting you will blind oncoming traffic - however if you buy a quality product and point it in the right direction there's no reason why you can't run your lighting daytime. Do you turn off your headlights (even ones you've converted to HID) during the day? Of course not, because it comes on with the bike. Do modern cars equipped with HIDs and DRLs turn off their lights? Ever? Of course not. Why should you crank down your bike's lighting?
I run my auxiiary HIDs 24/7 (well, only when the bike is running, of course) and no one complains. I never get flashed. I run my headlight modulator as well during daytime hours and aside from people who are using their cell phones who pull over because they think I'm a cop who wants to ticket them (well, they're right about the ticket. But I'n not a police officer) and good samaritans who wave to tell me my headlight is somehow broken because it is pulsing, no one says anything.
One of the main problems with LED and cheap HID lighting is that oncoming traffic has to look right into the emitting source. THAT's what blinds them. Quality HIDs have a blocking disk which is polished on the rear facing side to block that direct view. LEDs, because they face forward, do not.
I run my auxiiary HIDs 24/7 (well, only when the bike is running, of course) and no one complains. I never get flashed. I run my headlight modulator as well during daytime hours and aside from people who are using their cell phones who pull over because they think I'm a cop who wants to ticket them (well, they're right about the ticket. But I'n not a police officer) and good samaritans who wave to tell me my headlight is somehow broken because it is pulsing, no one says anything.
One of the main problems with LED and cheap HID lighting is that oncoming traffic has to look right into the emitting source. THAT's what blinds them. Quality HIDs have a blocking disk which is polished on the rear facing side to block that direct view. LEDs, because they face forward, do not.
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JamesK
Got to ride
Trigger, I have to admit I never would have guessed that the Slotek LEDs could possibly weigh more than the Soltek Fuegos with the built-in everything, so never even thought to check - my bad on that one :fool:
I still find it hard to understand though how/why the LEDs would weigh near double of the all-inclusive Fuegos? Did Baja give you any reasons for the extra weight?
TriggerT
Mr. Impatient
I didn't call Baja to investigate it to that extent. I just noticed the number on their website, and at that point took that light out of the running. Also, for the price they are asking for their LED lights, I could double up on the LED's from Clearwater, the FJR on the Clearwater website shows.
Which begs the question, would you rather have 4 of the Krista's or a set of the Krista up top, and then the Glenda's on the forks?
Which begs the question, would you rather have 4 of the Krista's or a set of the Krista up top, and then the Glenda's on the forks?
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Patriot
Isabella is Lazarus
I'm biased towards the Clearwaters...I run both Glendas and Kristas
I suppose it's realized that both have reflectors inside that work with the three leds mounted on the circuit board.
They are designed to be something between a spot and a flood. They really are quite bright and I have little fear anymore of riding in the dark.
And my voltmeter tells me the bike is very happy to have them on board.
The way I see running lights to be practical, they need to draw the lowest electrical power as possible, while still lighting up the night, and working well at all times. Spots shoot down the road in distance, but what about the edges of the road and beyond where the critters lie in wait.
And what about spots that become more and more useless when the bike is leaned over farther and farther in turns. The low light goes away and the high light lights up the sky. That's why to me the Clearwaters are so great. They are a compromise, just like our sport, oh wait, touring, no wait, sport... bikes. They are something between a flood and a spot and a compromise that works pretty darn well all the time.
And I will not ride during the day without lights showing great visibility to other drivers.
People get out of my way riding down the interstate with the cruise set to 79 and the Glendas always on full bright and the Kristas set to 25% dimmer during the day, 50% dimmer around dusk and sunrise, and 100% dimmer during the night.
sorry, I really should have cleaned these up after my last ride:
I suppose it's realized that both have reflectors inside that work with the three leds mounted on the circuit board.
They are designed to be something between a spot and a flood. They really are quite bright and I have little fear anymore of riding in the dark.
And my voltmeter tells me the bike is very happy to have them on board.
The way I see running lights to be practical, they need to draw the lowest electrical power as possible, while still lighting up the night, and working well at all times. Spots shoot down the road in distance, but what about the edges of the road and beyond where the critters lie in wait.
And what about spots that become more and more useless when the bike is leaned over farther and farther in turns. The low light goes away and the high light lights up the sky. That's why to me the Clearwaters are so great. They are a compromise, just like our sport, oh wait, touring, no wait, sport... bikes. They are something between a flood and a spot and a compromise that works pretty darn well all the time.
And I will not ride during the day without lights showing great visibility to other drivers.
People get out of my way riding down the interstate with the cruise set to 79 and the Glendas always on full bright and the Kristas set to 25% dimmer during the day, 50% dimmer around dusk and sunrise, and 100% dimmer during the night.
sorry, I really should have cleaned these up after my last ride:
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i would agree. but then i don't use my OEM high beam in traffic either. i ran my PIAAs when i needed to see ahead of my at night on the open road. i do the same with my MicroDEs. I need to see things far enough out there that I have time to react. That takes light-on-target and focus.
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