FJ1300RT Reverse Trike Concept

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Alan, we've "messed" with the starter interlock relay on Nitrotate's bike. He had a sidestand switch issue which turned out to be a starter cutoff relay issue, and then his replacement relay had a broken pin so we had to rig a fuel pump relay (normally integral to the starter cutoff relay,) and we rigged a bypass for the sidestand switch (since it's a trike anyway.)

The way I think we did it should not affect the neutral light, but I'm not sure the tests you've suggested will apply to his.

Have a look at his thread starting about post 95 or so and you'll see what I'm on about, if you can get through what the forum upgrade did to quotes from back then.

(Thinking back, that may have been during your self-imposed breather you took, away fromn the forum for a bit.)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Alan, we've "messed" with the starter interlock relay on Nitrotate's bike. He had a sidestand switch issue which turned out to be a starter cutoff relay issue, and then his replacement relay had a broken pin so we had to rig a fuel pump relay (normally integral to the starter cutoff relay,) and we rigged a bypass for the sidestand switch (since it's a trike anyway.)

The way I think we did it should not affect the neutral light, but I'm not sure the tests you've suggested will apply to his.

Have a look at his thread starting about post 95 or so and you'll see what I'm on about, if you can get through what the forum upgrade did to quotes from back then.

(Thinking back, that may have been during your self-imposed breather you took, away fromn the forum for a bit.)

Actually I did end up replacing it a few weeks ago and rewired it properly just to be on the safe side.

Also wanted to thank you guys for the help, I jumped the brown/red wire with 12v and I now have a Neutral light! Woohoo.

 
She runs! She drives!

fjr35.jpg


fjr36.jpg


fjr37.jpg


fjr38.jpg


fjr39.jpg


Saturday was nice so I decided to take it up and down the driveway in front of the shop. Got it up to third gear, and turned around at full lock a couple of times. Everything is exactly as I expected, except the clutch will need adjustment.

All the body is on except the two long side panels, which I will make once I can get the frame on its side. Next to work on the fenders, and get it all torn apart and ready for paint.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sweet man! It looks good! I've been having a blast on mine when the weather has cooperated... You're in for a fun vehicle, trust me I know now! :yahoo:

 
Little late to the party here... Wow, very nicely done. That took a lot of time and effort. The end result is great! Can't wait to see it with paint.

 
Checkin' back in... How's the project coming along? Haven't seen any updates in a little while. Hope everything is going good for ya! I've finally been getting out in mine quite a bit since the weather has gotten nice the last few days.

 
This project is not dead. I've had a few distractions :) :

1. 2001 Porsche Boxster. Doesn't need work, but it's just sooooo good that I wonder sometimes why I need a motorcycle (or trike) at all. In fact, I have ridden the FJR just twice since buying it.

2. Used motor home. I bought this for the summer vacation to Disneyland. I didn't think I was going to do a lot of work to it, but my wife had other ideas. We are doing a FULL interior remodel, everything goes except most of the appliances and cabinets.

3. All my kids and all my relatives and all their friends have discovered that I have a shop and some knowledge of fixing vehicles. Someone is always over with their car needing help and advice (all for free of course).

4. Summer vacation ends August 22. There shouldn't be much in the way of distractions after that. :rolleyes:

I am not happy with the look of the front end. Open to ideas that do not require modification of anything behind the front subframe.

 
This project is not dead...I am not happy with the look of the front end. Open to ideas that do not require modification of anything behind the front subframe.
2827111360103318019S600x600Q85.jpg


2950610750103318019S600x600Q85.jpg


Perhaps a pair of Chrysler Prowler like wheel wells

HP.12.jpg


And a snazzy logo in the center of the open space.

Porsche_logotype.png
logoblk1.jpg




 
Frame is painted!

fjr40.jpg


Went back and forth on colors, but it's painted so no turning back.
Now to paint the body panels (midnight blue).
Then assembly!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Trike is almost completely reassembled. Sorry, no pictures yet.

Running into a couple of issues as I prepare for another test drive:

1. Shift cable bent: Fix for this is to put mechanical stops on the shifter so as not to allow brute force to put too much stress on the delicate push/pull cable. I will weld brackets with bolts threaded on them in front of and behind the shifter. The shifter will stop when it hits the bolt, and adjustment will be allowed by threading the bolts in and out.

2. Clutch: I used the FJR clutch master cylinder actuated by the left foot pedal. The pedal operates the full travel of the master cylinder, but when I shift it feels like the clutch is barely disengaged, making it difficult to modulate the clutch when starting out.

a. Bad master cylinder

b. Bad slave cylinder

c. Not completely bled. I bled all the air from the system, but... ?

d. Master cylinder is below slave, requiring residual pressure valve or other fix.

e. Clutch needs replacing

f. Other ???

I have no prior history with the donor bike as it was purchased wrecked.

Suggestions welcome. Thanks.

 
I'm not sure master being above or below the slave is significant. And since you don't have a history, you don't really know what the clutch felt like before, making it hard to compare with how it feels now.

When you say it feels like it's barely disengaged, can you shift into first from neutral while stopped? The FJR has a significant clunk when doing this, and you can't baby the shifter, you have to shove it through. The foot shifter takes a good kick to do this, so if you feel like it's hard to shift because you're trying to ease it in and it grinds, then it's actually perfectly correct. Don't ease it in, slap in into first. There'll be a clunk, and the bike may give a bit of a lurch, just enough to let you know it's ready. If the bike creeps with the brake off, then you may have a clutch engagement problem.

Also, start the bike in first with the clutch pedal down and no brake. There may be an initial lurch if you have a "sticky" clutch, but the bike shouldn't actually creep as it cranks and fires.

If the clutch is "sticky," i.e. you get that lurch when cranking in gear or initially selecting first from neutral, you may need to remove the discs and give them the overnight oil soak.

But in all cases, absolutely do not be timid with the shifter.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks wfooshee.

It shifts fine with a satisfying clunk. It does not try to creep starting in first with the clutch in. It's letting out the clutch that's the problem. It stalls immediately with the slightest movement of the pedal, so it requires crazy throttle input to keep it going.

Now that I'm thinking about it, it may also be related to pedal ratio, i.e. not enough overall pedal travel so it's difficult to let it out smoothly.

Hmmm...

After I fix the shifter (with stops) it will be safer to slap it into gear, and I can get some higher speed runs.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I started to say that about the pedal travel before, but it seemed like you were worried about the clutch actually working or not rather than the feel. If it's not moving any further than the clutch lever would move, then it's gonna be pretty tough to work with your foot. Nitrotate went through some kind of hoops getting his to feel right, I think. You may want to attach the master cylinder link closer to the pedal pivot, which will force longer pedal travel for the same cylinder piston travel.

As far as the stalling is concerned, I bet yer little toy car is a bit heavier than the original donor bike. The clutch will need more slip, or the throttle will need more juice, to make up for that. might just be normal, considering.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks again.

I was more concerned that the clutch was not actuating fully, but now thinking about it, it could very well be a clutch travel issue, and that my foot is not sensitive enough to feel the difference.

Nitro used an automotive clutch master, and I seem to remember the main problem being that it moved too much fluid through the full travel of the pedal.

 
Glad to hear you're making progress. I had a blast on my trike this summer! You'll love it when you finally get on the road! Yeah I had that problem but I just started adding washers to the push rod that the pedal connects to until I got the right amount of travel. Initially I did have way too much fluid because a couple of times I over extended the clutch pressure plate and it popped over backwards and I had to open up the clutch cover to pop it back.

 
I think I got the clutch and shifter issues worked out. After a couple of short test drives in a light drizzle, I can report:

THIS THING IS A BLAST !

A little tricky to launch
Accelerates quickly, especially in the higher revs
Oversteers and peels out quite easily on wet pavement
Suspension feels great but need to finalize the alignment
Undercar cooling system intake and shroud seem to be working quite well
Fenders and windshield needed if I plan to ride in wet and cold

fjr41.jpg


fjr42.jpg


fjr44.jpg


fjr45.jpg


fjr46.jpg


fjr47.jpg


fjr48.jpg


Next,

Fender mounts
Alignment
Headlights

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Top