Interesting?? I assume you are talking about your trike and not a 2-wheel bike? Hmmm. well all I can do is wait for this freezing weather and snow to pass and finish the trike up and then bypass that sensor and see if that's what it was... I'll let everyone know. It will be interesting to see what nofreeride has for results assuming he might test drive prior to bypassing the sensor.
FJ1300RT Reverse Trike Concept
- Thread starter nofreeride
- Start date
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Interesting?? I assume you are talking about your trike and not a 2-wheel bike? Hmmm. well all I can do is wait for this freezing weather and snow to pass and finish the trike up and then bypass that sensor and see if that's what it was... I'll let everyone know. It will be interesting to see what nofreeride has for results assuming he might test drive prior to bypassing the sensor.
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
I can see how the pendulum switch in the FJR's tipover switch would get pulled over by side forces in hard cornering when the bike (trike) can't lean in the turn. It wouldn't just cut out and back in, though, it would shut the bike off until the key was cycled. Probably notoriously inconvenient on a track day, having your engine shut itself off jast as you apex a hard downhill sweeper.
Actually I do know that it does not require cycling the key switch for sure. I have had the sensor just sitting on top of the frame rail and started the bike then the vibration would rattle it off and it would trip the sensor so I would walk back and set it back up again and restart the bike without cycling. That's why I have been so sure that the cornering forces were causing the pendulum to swing over and kill it temporarily.
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
Something's wrong with it, then, or the ECU. But since you don't want it to work anyway, the disassemble/glue thing is your only choice, I think.
nofreeride
Well-known member
The dash is done. Stock FJR gauges and switches. Added a 12V socket and a voltmeter. The right side will have a large locking glovebox. The dash panels and screws will be painted body color.
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Alanstrike
Member
Reverse gearbox progress...
Prototype is working great will post small video in a couple of days will be a simple bolt up and wire. You will need a good deep cycle battery ( taxi spec ) and heavy cable to the starter motor that operates reverse also need to run the original MC battery close to alternator as in OEM position / distance as well because the starter will drag all power and MC will cut out
-mentioned this for you to make space and wiring available - next step is to order the custom gears for production version for FJR's ---- Alan
Prototype is working great will post small video in a couple of days will be a simple bolt up and wire. You will need a good deep cycle battery ( taxi spec ) and heavy cable to the starter motor that operates reverse also need to run the original MC battery close to alternator as in OEM position / distance as well because the starter will drag all power and MC will cut out
-mentioned this for you to make space and wiring available - next step is to order the custom gears for production version for FJR's ---- Alan
patch308
Well-known member
Hell, I'm impressed! Way more creative than I'm feeling at the moment
nofreeride
Well-known member
Alan, sounds great! Can't wait to see what you've come up with. Is there no way to avoid adding a second battery? Do you have a cost estimate yet?
Yeah very interested to see what you are coming up with. A guy that is helping me with some sheetmetal work has access to some batteries that supposedly are the same or nearly the same size as our motorcycle batteries but have very high amps. Not sure if you've seen them or know what I'm talking about but I can get some info on them if anyone is interested. I was considering it myself because of the reverse contraption I'm developing right now. Alan's will probably be nicer than what I'm doing but I'm in sort of a hurry... 
ionbeam
2 FUN
Alanstrike
Member
Hi Guys
this is a pic of where we mounted gearbox the production version is smaller ( 100w x 100d x 150h ) but will mount to same bolts of LH footrest bracket cost should be around $650 plus post - just playing with gearing for more power - Alan
this is a pic of where we mounted gearbox the production version is smaller ( 100w x 100d x 150h ) but will mount to same bolts of LH footrest bracket cost should be around $650 plus post - just playing with gearing for more power - Alan
So it sort of looks like you are headed in the same direction I was at one point by interfacing with the drive shaft? If that's what you are doing, are you planning on having a chain or belt etc. ride in contact with the shaft at all times or something that pulls away when not in use? That's the sticking point I ran into while thinking about this direction but I definitely didn't want anything in constant contact with the drive-shaft so I'm now going a different direction altogether.
Alanstrike
Member
Agreed didn't want constant mesh have re-engineered the unijoint yoke output with a fixed gear that will allow a sliding gear in the box to engage and then allows drive to pass - works faultlessly. I will be including a new yoke with 'box so is a true bolt up so that finished box looks factory - Alan
Alanstrike
Member
How are you getting reverse ? - I tried many options ( that failed ) mechanical drive seems to work well - friction didn't - swing arm on to disc with cog cut didn't - the amount of drive required seems to only leave mechanical I am using 12mm gears in solid sliding application - you may end up having to go that way / adjust frame ? -- any pic's?? - AlanOnly problem with my application is that's right where my trike frame mounts up so it probably wouldn't work for me...
I thought I had a cleaner shot of it but now that I'm at work I don't. I'll get a good picture of it later but for now if you look at pages 1&2 of my build log there is a picture on each page (scroll through them) that sort of shows it to give you an idea anyway; https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=124216&st=0
I'm building an electric motor with sprocket and chain driven rubber wheel that will pivot down through the floor behind the passenger seat and come in contact with the ground. I am still skeptical of it but I'm building it right now just to see if it will have the power. Reverse has had me more frustrated and stumped on this project than any other aspect of the entire build...
I'm building an electric motor with sprocket and chain driven rubber wheel that will pivot down through the floor behind the passenger seat and come in contact with the ground. I am still skeptical of it but I'm building it right now just to see if it will have the power. Reverse has had me more frustrated and stumped on this project than any other aspect of the entire build...
nofreeride
Well-known member
I bought a 2000 lb winch a while ago thinking it might work for a reverse motor. Nitro had a similar setup that wouldn't push his 1200 lb trike up his driveway. I was confused, so I did research on the specs for these winches. Now I'm more confused. Here are some of the specs on the winch:
(Specs found Here)
2000 lbs max load
9800 lbs rolling load on a 6 degree slope
pulls 1500 lbs at 6 feet per minute, drawing 90 amps
all based on first wire layer, i.e. hub diameter of 1.25 inches
The specs look like they should handle the load, even up a slope. The catch is that it's based on the first wire layer, which is a small diameter. This achieves maximum power, but minimum speed. Six feet per minute is not going to get me out of a parking space fast enough. That 1500 lbs, though, is not rolling load speed, and it will go considerably faster, maybe 9 feet per minute.
So, what would the speed and power be if I used the outside diameter of the spool, approx. 3.25 inches?
pi x 1.25" = 3.925" circumference
72 / 3.925 = 18.34 spool revolutions per minute
pi x 3.25" = 10.2" circumference
10.2" x 18.34 = 187 inches (15.6 feet) per minute minimum
18.34 / 3.925 = 30% of first wire layer pulling capacity
.3 x 2000 = 600 lbs max load
The rolling load would be a bit more, probably enough to where it would probably work on a level surface, but not up a slope.
Plus, it would still take a couple of minutes to back out of a parking space. Unacceptable.
Oh well. I will find another use for the winch.
(Specs found Here)
2000 lbs max load
9800 lbs rolling load on a 6 degree slope
pulls 1500 lbs at 6 feet per minute, drawing 90 amps
all based on first wire layer, i.e. hub diameter of 1.25 inches
The specs look like they should handle the load, even up a slope. The catch is that it's based on the first wire layer, which is a small diameter. This achieves maximum power, but minimum speed. Six feet per minute is not going to get me out of a parking space fast enough. That 1500 lbs, though, is not rolling load speed, and it will go considerably faster, maybe 9 feet per minute.
So, what would the speed and power be if I used the outside diameter of the spool, approx. 3.25 inches?
pi x 1.25" = 3.925" circumference
72 / 3.925 = 18.34 spool revolutions per minute
pi x 3.25" = 10.2" circumference
10.2" x 18.34 = 187 inches (15.6 feet) per minute minimum
18.34 / 3.925 = 30% of first wire layer pulling capacity
.3 x 2000 = 600 lbs max load
The rolling load would be a bit more, probably enough to where it would probably work on a level surface, but not up a slope.
Plus, it would still take a couple of minutes to back out of a parking space. Unacceptable.
Oh well. I will find another use for the winch.
nice. I didn't go to that level of thought with my current theory LOL. As embarrassing as it may be... :blush: or "redneck" as it may look... :crazy: I'll post some pictures of what I'm building so far maybe later tonight...
Alanstrike
Member
Hi - re cutout on corners - had the trike out for a run tonight and coming home did a sharp not overly fast corner and momentary cutout first time ever ... happened again a bit down the road hard out of a corner - looked at fuel level and was on reserve ( usually never have tank less then half full ) smooth corners no problems - filled tank = no trouble ...... when you were experiencing the cutout what was tank fuel level as if low and no lean as on 2 wheels fuel starvation will occur - have hear of similar problem on east west mounted BEC with oil in sump with out baffles or swing pickup and have had oil/engine light flash on once in very fast race track corner -oil was a bit low - make sure you have oil well up sight glass ( or slightly over full ) - Alan
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