MCRIDER007
Well-known member
Maybe your deer hit actually straighten the forks tubes......not likely but something i'm afraid I might test someday.
Fork maintenance failure
- Thread starter gixxerjasen
- Start date
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No, it definitely didn't. The next time I had the forks off for a fluid change the bike steered to the side when I put them back on. I had to index the forks to find the direction they are bent and put them so they are both in the bent backwards (in the as tweaked by deer) position. Now the forks have little marks on the fork caps for future alignment and bike runs nice and straight. 
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
One box o' junk. I'll go through it and photograph stuff for you guys. I peeked at one bushing on my way out of the shop and it was pretty trashed.
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
Similar part number.YamahaPartsHouse lists 2012 forks for $458.07, older years cost more, don't have a clue why the 2012s cost less, but they should fit an 07 without any mods, especially if you are using them for parts.Good links to have there Fred. Best price I'd seen for a whole fork was $624 from cyclepartswarehouse.com.Heck, screw doing fork maintenance, I'll get another set, and then at 100K I'll just buy a new set again. Or trade it in at that point on a nice low mileage used 2014.
For earlier models it's this.
3P6-23102-01-00 Left
3P6-23103-01-00 Right
For later models it's this.
3P6-23102-10-00 Left
3P6-23103-10-00 Right
Still, same fork right?
YamahaPartsHouse want $25 for shipping. I did a google search on the part numbers and boats.net turns up with them for $455 each and free shipping on orders $250 and up.
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MCRIDER007
Well-known member
Without doing a detailed part by part comparison, I would guess the slight difference in part numbers is due to a change in one of the internal parts....which is probably supposed to be an improvement. If the fork tubes are the same diameter they will fit the triple clamps and if the lower fork legs have the same part number then the brakes and ABS sensor will fit.Similar part number.For earlier models it's this.3P6-23102-01-00 Left3P6-23103-01-00 RightFor later models it's this.3P6-23102-10-00 Left3P6-23103-10-00 RightStill, same fork right?YamahaPartsHouse want $25 for shipping. I did a google search on the part numbers and boats.net turns up with them for $455 each and free shipping on orders $250 and up.YamahaPartsHouse lists 2012 forks for $458.07, older years cost more, don't have a clue why the 2012s cost less, but they should fit an 07 without any mods, especially if you are using them for parts.Good links to have there Fred. Best price I'd seen for a whole fork was $624 from cyclepartswarehouse.com.Heck, screw doing fork maintenance, I'll get another set, and then at 100K I'll just buy a new set again. Or trade it in at that point on a nice low mileage used 2014.
RossKean
Well-known member
Is the whole thing realy toasted? I can't imagine that all of the parts are ruined unless you used a cutting torch to take it apart. I would at least look at the cost to replace what's damaged rather than spending $1000 to completely replace both forks.
MCRIDER007
Well-known member
This was partially discussed earlier. The cost for a entire 2012 fork assembly is $458, the cost for the lower fork tube and steel outer tube is $349. Individual parts that could be parted out include the fork cap which retails for $109 and the cartridge assembly which retails for $240 plus the bushings and seals that he has already purchased but will no longer need if he buys the entire fork assembly.
If he only needs the lower fork leg I would just buy that, if he needs the lower fork leg and steel tube than buying the entire leg might be a better option.....assuming he can't find some used parts.
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Yeah, exactly. The unfortunate thing about this situation is that the inner fork tubes and the outer fork tubes, which from first reports have both been damaged beyond use, are the big ticket items that make up the lion's share of the total assembly price. That's why it would be cheaper to buy the whole assemblies that the individual pieces.
If one had unlimited time, they could probably have the parts refinished, maybe even improved by boring plating the inner surface of the fork lower tubes (why don't they do that?) but doing one off operations like that is seldom time (or cost) effective.
PS - Be aware that Boats.net are the exact same people as Partzilla.com. Cheap prices yes. But be careful.
If one had unlimited time, they could probably have the parts refinished, maybe even improved by boring plating the inner surface of the fork lower tubes (why don't they do that?) but doing one off operations like that is seldom time (or cost) effective.
PS - Be aware that Boats.net are the exact same people as Partzilla.com. Cheap prices yes. But be careful.
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gixxerjasen
Well-known member
Without having gone through the stuff yet. Late getting home and my son puked on himself in the car. Now my car smells of used fork oil and puke. Yay! The caps, and internals are good, and one lower is good. At a minimum it looks like I need one lower and two upppers. That'll run just over $500. Then I have to reassemble with my parts and get it all going again. If I need anything else, the price goes up from there. If I order new forks I get everything new, springs, everything. Plus, ordering the whole thing would be easier as well and if it comes assembled then I don't have to worry about trying to assemble it properly.
But first I gotta go through the stuff, that'll happen this weekend. Detailed photos to come.
No cutting torch to get the seized one apart, it's still stuck together at this point but that might be the only way to get them apart now.
But first I gotta go through the stuff, that'll happen this weekend. Detailed photos to come.
No cutting torch to get the seized one apart, it's still stuck together at this point but that might be the only way to get them apart now.
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
Ok, so here's the million dollar....erm, $120 question. How much scoring would be acceptable?
This is the fork (Right) that was weeping about six months ago. I made my own seal saver and ran it round and pulled a bunch of crud out. Crud that likely is what caused the scoring in the first place. Maybe...dunno. That said, after I cleaned the crud out, that seal didn't leak at all afterwards. Most recently it was the left that started leaking. Seal saver didn't fix it hence my maintenance. The left one is the seized up one.
So, while I can visually see some long scratches in the surface, I can't feel them with my finger or fingernail. It didn't leak before with the old seals. So, how bad is too bad? What makes it unservicible? Because I'm thinking that if they aren't leaking now then they shouldn't leak with new seals in either and could be good for another 50K miles perhaps. I mean, sure, if they were Valentino Rossi's forks I'd probably replace them.
I'm never very good at this you see. Folks post up pictures of engine internals and others will go "Oh my God! Look at that gouge/scratch/wear!!!" I'm like "What the hell am I looking at, those all look shiny and good." Thus I'm a poor judge of these kinds of things.
I'd post pictures but I'm going to have to work really hard with the macro mode to show them I think. as for the bushings....blah. Some stuff you see is from banging them out, but wow, that lower bushing took a beating. It's half teflon half polished brass on the outside. Pics coming of that when I can get it out in the sunlight.
This is the fork (Right) that was weeping about six months ago. I made my own seal saver and ran it round and pulled a bunch of crud out. Crud that likely is what caused the scoring in the first place. Maybe...dunno. That said, after I cleaned the crud out, that seal didn't leak at all afterwards. Most recently it was the left that started leaking. Seal saver didn't fix it hence my maintenance. The left one is the seized up one.
So, while I can visually see some long scratches in the surface, I can't feel them with my finger or fingernail. It didn't leak before with the old seals. So, how bad is too bad? What makes it unservicible? Because I'm thinking that if they aren't leaking now then they shouldn't leak with new seals in either and could be good for another 50K miles perhaps. I mean, sure, if they were Valentino Rossi's forks I'd probably replace them.
I'm never very good at this you see. Folks post up pictures of engine internals and others will go "Oh my God! Look at that gouge/scratch/wear!!!" I'm like "What the hell am I looking at, those all look shiny and good." Thus I'm a poor judge of these kinds of things.
I'd post pictures but I'm going to have to work really hard with the macro mode to show them I think. as for the bushings....blah. Some stuff you see is from banging them out, but wow, that lower bushing took a beating. It's half teflon half polished brass on the outside. Pics coming of that when I can get it out in the sunlight.
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Queensland Ken
Well-known member
I managed to polish out the scoring using Autosol metal polish and 1600 wet/ dry paper.
It would be even easier with the tubes in pieces using a bench polisher.
It would be even easier with the tubes in pieces using a bench polisher.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
While we wait for your pictures, I'd say if you can't feel the scratches, then polish them out and you're good to go. If you can't feel them, call them scuffs. You should be replacing all the bushings anyway while you have it all apart.
Agree. I've actually had some light scuffs in fork legs that polished out with metal polish and a lot of elbow grease.
As long as the scratches can't be felt it should be OK.
As long as the scratches can't be felt it should be OK.
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
Yea, full bushing replacement was in the plans. Got all the parts already.
If you can't get the upper and lower legs separated on the one side, you'll need to also order the 5LV-23173-00-00 "Spindle, Taper" that is captive down there, in addition to the inner and outer tubes.
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Fred,
I am pretty sure he should be able to get that out. No need to order me thinks. It should be able to fall thru the top of the upper tube if the cap is off.
Dave
gixxerjasen
Well-known member
IIRC, those are captive on the Gen I forks but not on the Gen II forks. Hey! Looks like we found a place the Gen II wins! Small victories. Of course, that's if you are talking about these two ugly guys. I didn't bother to clean them up, they have been rolling around in a box that is now busted and then on my garage floor.
Ok, bushings. We'll start with the lower one. Obviously, they get buggered when ramming things apart, but you can see where the teflon is.
And where the teflon isn't.
Teflon on the left, none on the right.
Teflon on the right, none on the left.
Inside of the upper. Probably another 150K miles on that one.
Inside of the middle one...it's been jammed as well during the disassembly process but clearly worn...not so much as the lower but still...
At this point I'd like to do a public service announcement. Just like tea kettles, never photograph your fork leg while naked. That is all.
Here's the scratches on the fork tube. Bear in mind, I turned these things back and forth and back and forth till the light was hitting them as to light up the scratches for the camera. They are really hard to see.
No Flash...
Flash, complete with fingerprints...
And finally, Mr Seized up fork...
Anything else you guys want photographed?
dcarver
Well-known member
No, but I sure would like to see you heat up that seized fork and surprise yourself silly when it came apart...
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ionbeam
2 FUN
