Going to the Dark Side

[HotRodZilla]

Is a temp difference really that big of deal? The difference can't be that much can it?

 

[Chuck35]

I was hoping to use temp to see where the tire was loaded and equalize said load with psi. One would think for example that if the psi were to high the temp would be higher in the center.

 

[alchemy]

I would think right warmest, left coolest just because the roads are pitched to the ditch so even going straight you are slightly cocked.

 

[mcatrophy]

I was hoping to use temp to see where the tire was loaded and equalize said load with psi. One would think for example that if the psi were to high the temp would be higher in the center.

Try different a pressure each side of the tyre

.

Come on, what were the temperatures?

 

[Chuck35]

Today I had about 110f 108f and 99f this was after right lane cruising. If cruising in the left lane the right side was warmest.

Ambient temps were in the mid 70's. Cold psi was set to 28. Warmed up the psi climbed to 31 - 32

28 psi may well be the magic number for me. It transformed the experience. The "hump" I had to get over to initiate a turn is gone. It feels almost like a bike tire now.

It seemed to run a little wide in a sweeper now. I will try raising the rear (penske shock height adjustment) 1 turn and see what I get.

 

[SFCJCA]

A word of caution. After you remove the rear brake master cylinder to lube the pivot point, double check the clearance on the brake line when you reinstall the master cylinder. It's "hypothetically" possible to shift the brake line so that it now rubs against the everlasting CT. You "could" find out the hard way when you hit the rear brakes after about 20 miles and the pedal keeps going. BTW, you can get a used rear brake line cheap on ebay.

 

[hppants]

Every 3-4 months, I check into this thread just to see what in the world there is left to discuss about the dark side after 1xx pages of thread.

And every time, you guys come up with more new dribble. Guess this will really be "never ending ......"

Please continue.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Well even though I have no intention of going DarkSide, I find the discussion extremely interesting. I am always pleased with the amount of studying these guys do and how technical and serious they are with this Car Tire. I hope that the manufacturers of motorcycle tires have taken note that you can have a tire that grips and lasts too. Grip and longevity do not have to be mutually exclusive.

When I first heard of this "DarkSide" thing I thought it was ridiculous. Now, I respect these guys more every time I check this thread.

 

[HotRodZilla]

But don't forget...They are gonna die in a ball of flaming aluminum and plastic. Hell, even Eric Trow said so, and he knows all there is to know about motorcycle safety.

Or not...

 

[Chuck35]

Eric Trow said so, and he knows all there is to know about motorcycle safety.

WTF is that Bozo?

 

[Chuck35]

A word of caution. After you remove the rear brake master cylinder to lube the pivot point, double check the clearance on the brake line when you reinstall the master cylinder. It's "hypothetically" possible to shift the brake line so that it now rubs against the everlasting CT. You "could" find out the hard way when you hit the rear brakes after about 20 miles and the pedal keeps going. BTW, you can get a used rear brake line cheap on ebay.

Good point!

My caliper support came with a hole for securing the brake hose. After taking great pains to remove the original tie loop intact, I discovered it didn't fit !@###

I still haven't remembered to cut off the excess from the zip tie....

 

[user 213]

Hell, even Eric Trow said so, and he knows all there is to know about motorcycle safety.

Or not...

The 'w' is pronounced 'll'

 

[Redfish Hunter]

Hell, even Eric Trow said so, and he knows all there is to know about motorcycle safety.

Or not...

The 'w' is pronounced 'll'

Honestly ever since that article I simply refuse to read anything that self-righteous ******* writes.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Hell, even Eric Trow said so, and he knows all there is to know about motorcycle safety.Or not...

The 'w' is pronounced 'll':winksmiley02:

Honestly ever since that article I simply refuse to read anything that self-righteous ******* writes.

Yup me too. That article proved he is full of **** and will put the advertising and money needs of his magazine above the truth. He should have not wasted the space and simply said, "I cannot recommend car tires because the motorcycle tire manufacturers surrounding this article will freak out." I would have respected him for that.

 

[Chuck35]

While nobody offered to tell me who the Bozo is, I think I managed to find the article in question. Due to my limited attention span I was unable to read it in its entirety.

I do wonder who appoints or elects these "industry leaders". I would like to cordially invite them to kiss my ass!

 

[SFCJCA]

A word of caution. After you remove the rear brake master cylinder to lube the pivot point, double check the clearance on the brake line when you reinstall the master cylinder. It's "hypothetically" possible to shift the brake line so that it now rubs against the everlasting CT. You "could" find out the hard way when you hit the rear brakes after about 20 miles and the pedal keeps going. BTW, you can get a used rear brake line cheap on ebay.

Good point!

My caliper support came with a hole for securing the brake hose. After taking great pains to remove the original tie loop intact, I discovered it didn't fit !@###

I still haven't remembered to cut off the excess from the zip tie....

I do have a zip tie holding the brake line to the caliper support. The zip tie is closer to the axle end of the support. Should it be on the other side (closer to the master cylinder)? Anyway, I used a tube/wire clamp I found at the hardware store to secure the brake line to the front bolt of the caliper support. See pic.

 

[gixxerjasen]

Every 3-4 months, I check into this thread just to see what in the world there is left to discuss about the dark side after 1xx pages of thread.
And every time, you guys come up with more new dribble. Guess this will really be "never ending ......"

Old tires get discontinued, and new ones come out. This one will never end. Besides, it's a tire thread, how could it die?

Well even though I have no intention of going DarkSide, I find the discussion extremely interesting. I am always pleased with the amount of studying these guys do and how technical and serious they are with this Car Tire. I hope that the manufacturers of motorcycle tires have taken note that you can have a tire that grips and lasts too. Grip and longevity do not have to be mutually exclusive.
When I first heard of this "DarkSide" thing I thought it was ridiculous. Now, I respect these guys more every time I check this thread.

I'll likely go dark side on my next tire change. I've been following this for a while. If I hadn't have scored the free tire on my last purchase of a set, I'd likely be darksiding right now.

 

[mcatrophy]

A word of caution. After you remove the rear brake master cylinder to lube the pivot point, double check the clearance on the brake line when you reinstall the master cylinder. It's "hypothetically" possible to shift the brake line so that it now rubs against the everlasting CT. You "could" find out the hard way when you hit the rear brakes after about 20 miles and the pedal keeps going. BTW, you can get a used rear brake line cheap on ebay.

Good point!

My caliper support came with a hole for securing the brake hose. After taking great pains to remove the original tie loop intact, I discovered it didn't fit !@###

I still haven't remembered to cut off the excess from the zip tie....

I do have a zip tie holding the brake line to the caliper support. The zip tie is closer to the axle end of the support. Should it be on the other side (closer to the master cylinder)? Anyway, I used a tube/wire clamp I found at the hardware store to secure the brake line to the front bolt of the caliper support. See pic.

Not too sure what you're asking for, if it's the support near the calliper, this picture (taken from near ground level looking up) shows it:

(Click on image for largest view)



(Sorry about the dried mud, but that's what our roads are doing to us.)

 

[user 213]

I used a tube/wire clamp I found at the hardware store to secure the brake line to the front bolt of the caliper support.

A nice clean solution to the problem. Well done.

 

[SFCJCA]

Mcatrophy,

Yeah, that's where I have the zip tie. But, my brake line rubbed against the tire at the other end of the caliper support. I just wanted to be sure I didn't have it backwards. Now I have the zip tie at the bottom end and the clamp at the top end. So far, so good.

John