Going to the Dark Side

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I'm thinking it would be a good idea to have this stuff stashed somewhere on the bike before you head out to places unknown.. Though finding someone to mount the tire might be a pain.

:jester:
This has been mentioned recently. In a pinch, you could just file the stock arm a bit for clearance. It only needs 1/8", give or take, depending on the tire used, (which is hit or miss due to variations in manufacturing).

One idea that has come up is to make a Dark Side Prepared Kit, (DSPK) that would have a two piece tension arm that pivoted in the middle so that it would be more compact than the 9.5" long tension arm. The kit would have the arm with a pivot bolt and nylock nut attached, a zip tie for the brake line and perhaps shorter bolts w/nylock nuts for the ends. The idea being that it would be reasonably priced and small enough to toss under the seat or in your normal tool kit. I might even go so far as to stamp the correct CT size on the bar.

Think there would be interest in this?

As far as mounting, any tire shop with a modern rim clamp machine can mount the tire to the FJR's wheel. America's Tire, for example, didn't even flinch when they saw the wheel. I just said it was for a sidecar. Some shops will flinch due to liability, but I suspect if you're in small town no where, it's less of an issue. As noted before, they can't balance the tire, but that's less of an issue for emergency use. Especially for the rear.

@Galaxy Blue - Dude! I know you're not a little guy, but really, even you don't need fork lift tires. :blum:

 
Eric

I think this torque arm mod would be a "no brainer" required prep on all FJR LD rally bikes. Even if the owner/rider has no intention to mount a CT, to be CT ready would be a huge asset.

Just my humble opinion. :rolleyes:

Brodie

 
Eric
I think this torque arm mod would be a "no brainer" required prep on all FJR LD rally bikes. Even if the owner/rider has no intention to mount a CT, to be CT ready would be a huge asset.
I agree, but we have already gone to the Darkside. Non CT users may or may not see the benefits to making their bikes CT ready.

Some of the AvdRider guys would likely be all over mods like this, allowing them to simply be able to use what ever tire they could find in a pinch, moto or car. Our brethren in some cases are more likely to sit in a hotel room for two days and pay air freight on a moto tire, or wait for a shop to open than to go outside the box and mount the CT to get home.

 
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@Galaxy Blue - Dude! I know you're not a little guy, but really, even you don't need fork lift tires. :blum:
Just imagine the possibilities! That solid tire would last forever! ;)

I am slowly warming up to the CT idea since it's been tried by several members with success...So, Count me in as interested in the Kit you are making. :)

 
I went over to my favorite Ace Hardware store today. $5.97 bought me

(2) s/s 8mm x 1.25 pitch x 20mm long button head, allen bolts

(2) s/s 8mm flat washers

(2) s/s 8mm x 1.25 nylock nuts

(1) cut to order 9.5" long piece of hot rolled 3/16" x 3/4" steel flat stock.

I went ahead and got two sets of everything. I just need to drill three holes and clean up the corners of the bars on the bench grinder, then paint them black or silver, depending on what's in the paint cabinet.

FWIW, in the FAQ there is a link to a place where you can order 1' of stainless steel flat stock the same size for a couple of bucks or so.

Not every Ace will cut to size. Their std length was 3'. Since I bought two pieces 9.5" long, they charged me for $0.99/Ft for 1.5 feet. :unsure: I'm ok with that math!

After looking at the stock tension bar, and the bike I realized that the 15 min flares I carry in the tool tray under the passenger seat area at just over 9" long too. So there is really no need to fuss with a two piece tension bar design, the extra bolt and greater potential weakness of a junction in the middle. If someone wanted to carry the kit as a emergency item, rather than preventatively installing it, it fits in the tool tray easily.

GalaxyBlue - What would you pay for $6 of hardware, some holes and a little paint? I don't really want to go into business making these, in part because you can already buy a nice one from Farklemasters.com for a reasonable price in steel or stainless steel. This is more of a 'WTF would I do if stuck on the road and needing to do the conversion' test.

 
I went over to my favorite Ace Hardware store today. $5.97 bought me
(2) s/s 8mm x 1.25 pitch x 20mm long button head, allen bolts

(2) s/s 8mm flat washers

(2) s/s 8mm x 1.25 nylock nuts

(1) cut to order 9.5" long piece of hot rolled 3/16" x 3/4" steel flat stock.

I went ahead and got two sets of everything. I just need to drill three holes and clean up the corners of the bars on the bench grinder, then paint them black or silver, depending on what's in the paint cabinet.

FWIW, in the FAQ there is a link to a place where you can order 1' of stainless steel flat stock the same size for a couple of bucks or so.

Not every Ace will cut to size. Their std length was 3'. Since I bought two pieces 9.5" long, they charged me for $0.99/Ft for 1.5 feet. :unsure: I'm ok with that math!

After looking at the stock tension bar, and the bike I realized that the 15 min flares I carry in the tool tray under the passenger seat area at just over 9" long too. So there is really no need to fuss with a two piece tension bar design, the extra bolt and greater potential weakness of a junction in the middle. If someone wanted to carry the kit as a emergency item, rather than preventatively installing it, it fits in the tool tray easily.

GalaxyBlue - What would you pay for $6 of hardware, some holes and a little paint? I don't really want to go into business making these, in part because you can already buy a nice one from Farklemasters.com for a reasonable price in steel or stainless steel. This is more of a 'WTF would I do if stuck on the road and needing to do the conversion' test.
Gotcha...

I was just skimming this thread and noticed that there is some modifications needed for this to work. I will go back and read it more gooder. :rolleyes:

 
I'm warming up to the idea of a conversion next year, prior to a forming-in-my-head plan to ride across country to visit my family in Boston and back. A part of me thinks it makes huge financial sense, especially with a lot of slab involved. $200 or so for 20K-40K of rear tire life sounds too good to be true. I also admit I will be leery in the twisties that I'd get to ride here and there.

Then there is the fallout from my brother the GoldWing rider, giving me ****...

But I am warming to the idea. I'll have to wade through a bunch of posts, but I have all winter coming. I won't ask for answers without doing the homework; I haven't been paying much attention to the darkside. Thanks for all the footwork and research done by Eric and others.

 
I was just skimming this thread and noticed that there is some modifications needed for this to work. I will go back and read it more gooder. :rolleyes:
Check out the FAQ it covers the mods. The only item is the caliper tension arm that ties the brake caliper to the swing arm and prevents it from rotating. Some times rub on that arm. Most will rub, a few don't, but it's hit or miss. Replacing the boxed stock arm with a single flat bar mounted to the outside of the tabs will give tons of clearance. Or, as we have seen in previous posts, modifying the stock arm is also possible.

I'm a big fan of overkill, so I lean towards the heavy steel replacement piece which stronger than the stocker rather than modifying the stock part. To each their own though. On the road, I'd likely just file or sand clearance in the stock part as it's the simplist thing to do. Even though I just was able to get 90% of the job done in 10 minutes at a hardware store.

 
<SNIP>I was just skimming this thread and noticed that there is some modifications needed for this to work. I will go back and read it more gooder. :rolleyes:
Make sure you re read this thread in it's entirety, Every single post is a nugget of information to be pondered upon. :rolleyes:

All 1,328 of them. :evilsmiley03:

Brodie

 
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<SNIP>I was just skimming this thread and noticed that there is some modifications needed for this to work. I will go back and read it more gooder. :rolleyes:
Make sure you re read this thread in it's entirety, Every single post is a nugget of information to be pondered upon. :rolleyes:

:evilsmiley03:

Brodie

Brodie,

No pain meds and you post this? You are a freak of nature ;) :D . Good to see you posting with your good hand. If BustaNut only had one good hand, he wouldn't be using it to post messages -- it would be more personally engaged. :huh:

But I digress. I need to start reading every post now....

 
Just a quick post if anybody is still following this thread.... i've got a little over 2k on the 019 Grid and i love it. It still looks like new. Handles great, even with 2up. If anybody in Maine or NH wants to meet up and check it out or try it i'd be ok with that...

 
Pot?

I had two quite smokeing thatstuff acause it made my dumd and speelll like D craver.. Hee iz a simpleton ya no..

:jester:

 
Just a quick post if anybody is still following this thread.... i've got a little over 2k on the 019 Grid and i love it. It still looks like new. Handles great, even with 2up. If anybody in Maine or NH wants to meet up and check it out or try it i'd be ok with that...
Glad it's working out for you Rob!

@Bust - Pot??? I thought we explained odot with the heavy use of alcohol? OMG, imagine odot on pot!

 
man, I'm the one it seems who is the "not for everyone"

I admit I slab most of the time...the middle of my rear PR2 lasts 15k miles while the edges are more or less pristine

today I got a deal mentioned elsewhere for $218 and some change for a pair https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=130710

front goes in lower 20's k

I still can't rationalize it and still want (well wifey has them) to keep ma balls...

 
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