Grip Heaters - Dual Star vs Symtec

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cyclemed

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I am going the cheapo route on grip heaters and doing the under grip wraps with the Heat Troller. However I am getting mixed feedback on which ones to get. Initially I was told to get the Dual Stars since they are different left to right to compensate for heat loss on the left grip. But, the Warm Safe person told me they sell the Symtec and they are identical to the Dual Stars.

Can someone or some of you comment on Dual Star vs Symtec?

Thanks

 
I am going the cheapo route on grip heaters and doing the under grip wraps with the Heat Troller. However I am getting mixed feedback on which ones to get. Initially I was told to get the Dual Stars since they are different left to right to compensate for heat loss on the left grip. But, the Warm Safe person told me they sell the Symtec and they are identical to the Dual Stars.
Can someone or some of you comment on Dual Star vs Symtec?

Thanks
if not identical, they are very very close. Apples and Apples, IMO no difference.
 
I've had both and, IMO, they feel the same.

[Edit] And yes, for all you perverts out there (RenoJohn? B) ), I'm talking about grip heaters. [/Edit]

 
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I went frugal-smart and got Kimpex elements, then two sets of Pro Gel grips and used the throttle side grips on both sides, with the left bar built up with heat shrink tubing and a Heat Troller from this page. Even heat on both sides and inexpensive to boot!

 
I have Symtec's no issues not sure about Dual Star.

BTW - Great customer service from Symtec, I had a bad 3-way toggle switch way after installtion and they shipped me a new one no charge, they paid for shipping too. No questions asked.

 
Where is the power source for heated grips?
The "HOT" wire.

OK that was too easy. You'll have to bring it from a power source or power strip you may have. I suggest it be switched. Tons-O-info regarding this in the forum.

Which reminds me. Since I am using the Symtec on the 06, can I use the plug ot input for the Heated grips for something else powered. I assume there is a dongle somewhere under the left fairing.

Thanks

 
Where is the power source for heated grips?
The "HOT" wire.

OK that was too easy. You'll have to bring it from a power source or power strip you may have. I suggest it be switched. Tons-O-info regarding this in the forum.
Which reminds me. Since I am using the Symtec on the 06, can I use the plug ot input for the Heated grips for something else powered. I assume there is a dongle somewhere under the left fairing.

Thanks
If you start "ganging" things on to lines that already have power, you may have problems with blown fuses if it's drawing too much current.

Running a 30amp power strip should give you plenty of power available for multiple items. You can hook up a relay to a switch off of a another power source that is switched, like the turn signals, etc.

Check this out. Warchilds FJRtech Power Strip

You can always just go straight to your battery but, if you leave the grips on you'll drain the battery and possibly burn out the heating elements.

Do a Google search for power strips on the forum, <site:fjrforum.com power strip installation>

Good luck.

 
If you start "ganging" things on to lines that already have power, you may have problems with blown fuses if it's drawing too much current.

Running a 30amp power strip should give you plenty of power available for multiple items. You can hook up a relay to a switch off of a another power source that is switched, like the turn signals, etc.

Check this out. Warchilds FJRtech Power Strip

You can always just go straight to your battery but, if you leave the grips on you'll drain the battery and possibly burn out the heating elements.

Do a Google search for power strips on the forum, <site:fjrforum.com power strip installation>

Good luck.

Thanks. I am using the electrical connection power block and ground block just for that reason, but figured it might save some wiring to use what was there already. I agree, keep it simple and put all add ons on the Power Block.

Thanks for responding.

Best,

 
I have installed both brands and compared them side by side, including the wiring instructions. I do not see or feel and difference between the two brands. They would appear to be made by the same manufacturer. The wire guage is the same and the heating elements appear to be identical as well as the stock on/off switch. :)

 
Sorry to ressurrect an older post.

I have been researching which way to go with grips, OEM ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$) :angry2: or Dual stars/Symtec.

I think I am going to go with the the Dual star heat troller combo.

First let me say that I am not an electical guru, but I have wired a thing here and there on autos and bikes. The thing I don't understand is why run a relay for a switched power source? I mean if you tap into the existing OEM grip connector or the running lights why put a relay in the circuit? To me it seems that you are just putting something in there that may fail and is not needed.

Please explain. Thanks

edited to add: Okay I looked at the wiring diagram at warm N Safe's website. I understand that they have the grip power coming from the battery and describe a switched power source to close the relay to route power for the grips. So is the problem that if you run the grips straight from the running lights that the grips under power will dim the lights? I thought if you just tapped into the wiring for say the running lights that this would be a parallel circuit and not be in danger or dimming the lights.

Warm N Safe site/Diagram

What if I used the stock OEM grip wiring? Would this still need a relay? I have ordered a FZ1 fuse block but wanted to keep those ports open for other future farkles.

 
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Your Gen II gives you the option to use your FJR's heated grip wiring making a relay unnecessary. Unlike your running light's wire, this wire will be the correct size for the current draw and will be backed up by the proper fuse size.

Heated grips draw 35-40 watts which is ~3 amps. Us poor Gen I guys use a relay to connect directly to the battery to facilitate better power delivery and to have the ability to switch the high circuit power on/off with a low current ignition switched source.

 
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Your Gen II gives you the option to use your FJR's heated grip wiring making a relay unnecessary. Unlike your running light's wire, this wire will be the correct size for the current draw and will be backed up by the proper fuse size.
Heated grips draw 35-40 watts which is ~3 amps. Us poor Gen I guys use a relay to connect directly to the battery to facilitate better power delivery and to have the ability to switch the high circuit power on/off with a low current ignition switched source.

Thanks ionbeam, I forget that Gen I does not have the OEM wiring for grips

 
CycleMed,

I am a FJR Newbie and my plan to install the least expensive heated grips which

worked out great is the Symtec with the 3Way (Hi/Lo/Off) toggle. The kicker is that I

purchased a cheap set of Foam Grip Puppies and placed the heating elements

right over my stock grips. Slid the foam over those and it works like a champ.

I did run wire direct to the battery and placed a separate in-line fuse to protect

the system. To make sure that I never leave these on, I purchase a cheap tiny

round blue LED, flush mounted next to the toggle and tied into the toggle switch.

The systmec was $33. Think I got the fuse link and led for under $20 at checker.

The Hot position is almost too hot... The Grip Puppies also help with the bar buzz.

In my case, it was a win.

Mike(FJRthistime)

 
I using Symtec with a hi-lo-ff switch, BMW grips, and Warchild's power strip setup. Works great. Less than $50 total probably, or close to it. Worth every penny when it's cold...

 
CycleMed,
I am a FJR Newbie and my plan to install the least expensive heated grips which

worked out great is the Symtec with the 3Way (Hi/Lo/Off) toggle. The kicker is that I

purchased a cheap set of Foam Grip Puppies and placed the heating elements

right over my stock grips. Slid the foam over those and it works like a champ.

I did run wire direct to the battery and placed a separate in-line fuse to protect

the system. To make sure that I never leave these on, I purchase a cheap tiny

round blue LED, flush mounted next to the toggle and tied into the toggle switch.

The systmec was $33. Think I got the fuse link and led for under $20 at checker.

The Hot position is almost too hot... The Grip Puppies also help with the bar buzz.

In my case, it was a win.

Mike(FJRthistime)
Mike as this is an older post, curious as to your install technique. It's about to get to the brief cold season in Texas, and wanted to duplicate your install. Question, did you still use any glue's or epoxy to the "grip puppy/foam" side of the heating element?

 
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