Wicked Webby
Right is Harder than Wrong.
No problem Cdogman,
Now that I got rid of all that junk.... It sure is easy to get in and out for them throttle body syncs!!
WW
Guide to Removing the Air Induction System
- Thread starter Wicked Webby
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Now that I got rid of all that junk.... It sure is easy to get in and out for them throttle body syncs!!
WW
I removed the air injection system today in preperation for installing a power commander and having the bike
dyno tuned next week. I took a slightly different approach. Instead of plugging the 4 male barb fittings on the
valve cover and the 1 fitting in the air box by using short pieces of the hose and plugs or caps I used the same method
I have used on all my bikes for the last 15 years to plug off these openings. Clean the barb fittings inside & out
thourghly with carburator cleaner and plug them with GE high temp. silicone. You only need to use enough silicone
to plug about 1/4 inch of the openings. Don't pump any more silicone in than is necessary to block the openings.
There is no pressure in this system and the silicone forms a perminant seal when it cures in about 6 hours. It is
easily removed if you want to reuse the system in the future. I have used this method on 6 bikes and never had
a silicone plug come loose. This approach is cheap ($4.50 for a small tube of the GE silicone) and is as uncluttered
and clean as it gets. WW is absolutely right about removing this system cleaning up the area above the motor and
making future maintenance simpler.
John
dyno tuned next week. I took a slightly different approach. Instead of plugging the 4 male barb fittings on the
valve cover and the 1 fitting in the air box by using short pieces of the hose and plugs or caps I used the same method
I have used on all my bikes for the last 15 years to plug off these openings. Clean the barb fittings inside & out
thourghly with carburator cleaner and plug them with GE high temp. silicone. You only need to use enough silicone
to plug about 1/4 inch of the openings. Don't pump any more silicone in than is necessary to block the openings.
There is no pressure in this system and the silicone forms a perminant seal when it cures in about 6 hours. It is
easily removed if you want to reuse the system in the future. I have used this method on 6 bikes and never had
a silicone plug come loose. This approach is cheap ($4.50 for a small tube of the GE silicone) and is as uncluttered
and clean as it gets. WW is absolutely right about removing this system cleaning up the area above the motor and
making future maintenance simpler.
John
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Cdogman
Bad Boy
DONE!! Did TBS,,
I got no kitties... I am gonna run it tomarrow.. Was drinking beer playing with bike in garage,,,, so test run tomarrow..
TBS was WAY off.... Now.... No kitties needed to hear purring
WW.... I dont understand what I am looking at with your Fine tune thing...
I FREAKIN WISH... I was at 900 Ft alt..
Mebbe it is time for a turbo?
**thinking**
I got no kitties... I am gonna run it tomarrow.. Was drinking beer playing with bike in garage,,,, so test run tomarrow..
TBS was WAY off.... Now.... No kitties needed to hear purring
WW.... I dont understand what I am looking at with your Fine tune thing...
I FREAKIN WISH... I was at 900 Ft alt..
Mebbe it is time for a turbo?
**thinking**
El Toro
Innocent Bystander
Die Entropie des Motorraddes wird immer groesser.
Most roaches are created unintentionally.
Most roaches are created unintentionally.
NSrider
Well-known member
The hose on the non-california that you said was already plugged, is it attached to something? Mine is tucked down between the motor and frame and since I can't see where it terminates I was afraid to pull on it with any force.5) This is what you have removed.
Wicked Webby
UselessPickles
Making Grand Canyon replicas from air boxes...
It's not attached to anything. It's just sitting there. If it resists, maybe the hose clamp that holds the plug is caught on something.The hose on the non-california that you said was already plugged, is it attached to something? Mine is tucked down between the motor and frame and since I can't see where it terminates I was afraid to pull on it with any force.5) This is what you have removed.
Wicked Webby
"There is no pressure in this system and the silicone forms a perminant seal when it cures in about 6 hours."
As the exhaust gas flows out of the cylinder a vacuum is created which pulls induction air from the filtered airbox down into the exhaust header. It's probably not a very strong vacuum but it is a negative pressure which would tend to pull the silicone plugs into the head assembly.
As the exhaust gas flows out of the cylinder a vacuum is created which pulls induction air from the filtered airbox down into the exhaust header. It's probably not a very strong vacuum but it is a negative pressure which would tend to pull the silicone plugs into the head assembly.
FJRGuy
FJR Rally Addict! :D
Hmmm... I'll make a note of this thread for future reference...but...
Is it necessary to do a TBS after removing this system?
I probably have no need to do this until I do a TBS but I'm curious.
Is it necessary to do a TBS after removing this system?
I probably have no need to do this until I do a TBS but I'm curious.
Nikk
Well-known member
I'm in the midst of performing a valve adjustment; and by "a valve" I mean one valve out of 16 was tight, but that is another thread.
Anyway!
I'm all over this idea! I don't want to put all that crap back on. I'm leaning toward the straight up cap approach, rather than hoses with plugs.
My real question is:
What about the exposed electrical connector? I would hate to have some sort of conductor, like water, cause me an electrical short and/or blown fuse.
I think the cleanest solution would be to buy the mating part of the plug and seal the wire end.
Perhaps just another rubber end cap on the connector might be easiest.
Anyway!
I'm all over this idea! I don't want to put all that crap back on. I'm leaning toward the straight up cap approach, rather than hoses with plugs.
My real question is:
What about the exposed electrical connector? I would hate to have some sort of conductor, like water, cause me an electrical short and/or blown fuse.
I think the cleanest solution would be to buy the mating part of the plug and seal the wire end.
Perhaps just another rubber end cap on the connector might be easiest.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
+1
Assuming you bought one of those "multi-sized" collections like I did, you've got some spares. If not, just wrap the sucker in electrical tape if it concerns you.
Wicked Webby
Right is Harder than Wrong.
Just a little update all,
I recently switched out my stock Yamaha "capped" covers with some block off plates that Joe2Lmaker made for me.
These block off plates work very well and install fairly easily on the Gen II models. Remember to use a short ball-end allen for those tighter spaces.
The Gen I's are a more in depth install, because you have to remove the coolant pipe to remove (the stock ones) and install (the new ones).
Thus, my above tutorial is a great and "simple" way to cap off this system on the Gen I's. Also works great with the Gen II's but the block off
plates really clean up the top of the motor. BTW.. When doing the "plugged hose" method... MAKE SURE TO USE THE PROPER PLUGS IN THE HOSE's.
Some have tried other plug methods with "leaky" results.
Here is a pic of the block off plates as I was installing them.
Oh Yes, If you want to purchase a set of these plates...
Joe2Lmaker pasted on his spec's (from the set he made me) to 08FJR4ME and he is producing them. Check into it here:
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...=116612&hl=
Big shout out to Joe2Lmaker and 08FJR4ME,
Webby
I recently switched out my stock Yamaha "capped" covers with some block off plates that Joe2Lmaker made for me.
These block off plates work very well and install fairly easily on the Gen II models. Remember to use a short ball-end allen for those tighter spaces.
The Gen I's are a more in depth install, because you have to remove the coolant pipe to remove (the stock ones) and install (the new ones).
Thus, my above tutorial is a great and "simple" way to cap off this system on the Gen I's. Also works great with the Gen II's but the block off
plates really clean up the top of the motor. BTW.. When doing the "plugged hose" method... MAKE SURE TO USE THE PROPER PLUGS IN THE HOSE's.
Some have tried other plug methods with "leaky" results.
Here is a pic of the block off plates as I was installing them.
Oh Yes, If you want to purchase a set of these plates...
Joe2Lmaker pasted on his spec's (from the set he made me) to 08FJR4ME and he is producing them. Check into it here:
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...=116612&hl=
Big shout out to Joe2Lmaker and 08FJR4ME,
Webby
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radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
I'm just gonna remove and toss the water pipe on top. Just more crap in the way. Same goes for the big *** black thing in front keeping all the cool air offa me. Air cooling was good enough for Granpa, it's good enough for me.
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SouthernCruizer
Is it Beer:30 yet?
**************************************************************************
:clapping: :lol: :lol:
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Don't forget that heavy-assed spliney thingy attached to the port side of the rear wheel.
McRuss
Well-known member
Was changing plugs tonight, remembered seeing something about removing the Air things...and having just done exactly that on my '09 Triumph Bonnie, I said "why not?" So now they are off and a thought comes to me....rare but there anyway: on the Bonnie, if you don't leave the electrical connection in place (solenoid?) you get a fault code and the engine light comes on and stays on until you reset it and either reinstall the solenoid or jump the connector with a low ohm resistor. Do not ask how I know. Now about that connector on the Feejer ('04, GenI), does it even have a check engine light? I honestly dont recall and too lazy to go get the manual. Since there was no mention of the problem, I'd assume it not a problem. But then again, there was no mention on the Triumph forum either.....
Jeff Q
Well-known member
I need to do this, since I added slip-ons the popping is very noticable on decel. Have to buy TB sync tool first I guess...
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Millsaps2
Well-known member
UselessPickles, After installing the plates can you ride the bike without doing a throttle body adjustment? I understand an adjustment is necessary but I will have to go to my dealer for this adjustment since I do not have the proper tools.
UselessPickles
Making Grand Canyon replicas from air boxes...
Removing the air induction system should have no effect on the throttle body balance, unless you forget to plug the hole on the air box. But throttle body balance would become a minor issue next to the unfiltered air getting sucked into the engine.
v65
ouch
And would that short ball end also work for putting the bolts back in?Remember to use a short ball-end allen for those tighter spaces.
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