I need an Audieovox Cruise expert......

[rainman]

Long story......I have had Audiovox CC on my 2004 FJR for about 50K miles.....worked flawlessly since installation.

Recently left on trip....hit the cruise....no power....rode 7 days without CC and said this MUST be fixed.

After I lifted the tank....realized I had not attached the ground wire when I changed plugs before I left.....easy fix....re-attach ground wire, power restored......but CC would not engage.

Did all of the troubleshooting electrical checks.....all parts were working as they should.....so I assumed the servo must have died.....but thought the timing of that was a little odd.

Purchased a complete kit from MitchKits on the internet. Installed the servo....still didn't work.

I have now installed the complete system on the bike......servo, switch, wires.....and it still does not work.

I am at the end of my rope......only part of the system that is the same is the coil......but the engine runs so the coil must be good....Right???

Any ideas out there??

 

[Fred W]

Brake light switch operating right?

PS Mitch is actually Murph, but who's counting?

 

[Fairlaner]

Vacuum leak somewhere?

R

 

[mcatrophy]

Have you done all the LED tests they suggest? Should show where it's funny.

Does your rear brake lever return easily? If that was sticky the CC would get a brake signal and refuse to set.

(You can view the CCS manual here.)

 

[rainman]

Yes....Sorry Murph....great kit.

Yes....brake light working fine.......did all of the electrical test in the instructions....twice.....all ok.

Yes....check vacuum with manometer.....plenty of vacuum.

 

[bgross]

Isn't this just god's way of telling you that you need a factory CC - and the new FJR that comes with it?

 

[wfooshee]

Check the throttle cable. If you were in there changin plugs, it wouldn't be that hard to bump whatever you have that guides the cable down to the throttle tang. If you used the cable clamp from the kit, you might have just shoved that down a bit, resulting in very excessive slack in the bead chain. If there's too much, it will not set.

That's about the only mechanical thing that will prevent it setting. The rest is electrical, and saying you've done the tests and they're correct is just telling us to say, "OK, electrical is OK," when we really don't know that.

What does the flashing LED in the servo do under the different conditinos the manual shows for testing? Don't just say "The right stuff," tell us what it actually does.

Are you getting 12 volts on the red wire to the brake switch with key on? Are you showing ZERO volts on the purple wire with key on and no brakes? not low volts, ZERO volts. (Gen-Is aren't so bad on this one, but Gen-IIs do something different there.) Do you have 12 volts on the brown wire from the switch panel when you press the On button with the key on? A "no" or "not exactly" to any of those will prevent it working.

 

[JR'SFJR]

+1 on too much cable slack. When I had my starter out a while back, I must have move the cable a little, causing no or slow engagement. Lifted the tank, moved the cable forward in the bracket and it now works immediately again.

 

[BikerGeek99]

+1 on too much cable slack.

+2. Are you sure that it is not engaging?

After one of Bust's Tech Days (I think the one when we did a valve check on my bike) my AVCC would not engage. Or so it seemed. It would engage, but I would lose ~ 15 MpH in the process and it would slowly creep back to the set speed.

At the most recent Tech Day we were under the tank anyway so we fiddled with the throttle cables a bit and it is much better now.

 

[rainman]

Yes....throttle I cable is ok.......I replaced the servo so re-installed the cable. And brakes checks out....12 volts when it is supposed to and 0 volts when it is not.

WFOOSHEE......I don't know about the LED on the servo......I will investigate that tomorrow.......too many other chores today to get to it.

Thank you all for your ideas.....I truly appreciate.

 

[Hornet Pilot]

Yup, you have to pull the rear cover off the servo unit where the wires are terminated. In there is an LED and if you have the info available you can tell how the thing is operating by looking at the blinking LED codes. It pretty much will tell you if all the connections are proper and if the signal from the coil (RPM signal) is being received by the unit.

 

[JR'SFJR]

Servo: remove 10 wire cover

Ignition key on + control pad turned on.

Press set button....red light on servo should go on

Press resume button...same

Engage front brake.....same

Engage rear brake.....same

Start engine, red servo light should vary with engine speed.

 

[rainman]

Mystery solved. Since the vacuum was good and all of the parts were new, it seemed the problem had to be related to the coil. I had checked continuity of the blue wire....with and without the noise suppressor.....replaced the wire (again)......finally reread the installation instructions from the original install......and then realized the "T connector" with the blue wire was on the wrong side of the coil.

Before this problem started, I had taken the bike to the local Yamaha dealer to have the valves checked and the coolant changed.

Evidently, at some point during that process, the tech removed the wires from the coil (don't know if that is required for either of those service items) and put the T back on the wrong side of the coil.

Cruise works great now. Yes, I am frustrated......No, I will never return to Dreyer Motorsports in Indianapolis.

Thanks to you all for your help......I learned about the LED from here and appreciate everyone's interest and tips.

 

[Harald]

Timely thread as my Audiovox recently quit working also. Some quick troubleshooting showed that there was 0.4 volts on the brake line when no brakes are applied. Apparantly that's enough to stop the CC from engaging, although that seems awefully sensitive to me.

Grounding the purple wire yielded a fully functional CC, but dangerous situation because applying brakes no longer disconnects the CC. :drool: Installation of a relay has rectified the dangerous situation and the CC is now ready for the upcoming weekend's ride around the PNW.

 

[wfooshee]

I will assume you grounded the purple wire after removing it from the brake circuit. If not, you blew the fuse by shorting your brake light power to ground, and you have no brake lights. but if you did that, the cruise would not engage because the red wire at the brake light would not have power, and that's main power for the CC. Unless you tapped that somewhere else.

So if you grounded the purple wire but left it connected to the brake circuit. checks that you have brake lights......

 

[Harald]

I will assume you grounded the purple wire after removing it from the brake circuit. If not, you blew the fuse by shorting your brake light power to ground, and you have no brake lights. but if you did that, the cruise would not engage because the red wire at the brake light would not have power, and that's main power for the CC. Unless you tapped that somewhere else.
So if you grounded the purple wire but left it connected to the brake circuit. checks that you have brake lights......

You would assume correctly. I fully understand the ramification of inducing a direct short to ground.

One of the nice things about posi-taps are that you can unscrew the wire that's tapping into a circuit (purple AVCC wire in this case) and do things like attach a aligator clip to the removed wire for the purpose of grounding it.
With my newly installed SPDT relay installed in the circuit there's now an actual ground on the purple AVCC wire until the brakes are applied, at which point 12vdc nominal is applied to the purple wire. All is working like a champ.

 

[russperry]

Searching through the various AVCC threads (most of them long abandoned) this one seems might be related to my new issue. Brodie was gracious enough to do 95% of the install work on my '08 some time ago, like maybe 2011? Anyways, it worked great all the way up until yesterday.

Pulled the black beauty out after a fairly lengthy slumber, started no problem (been on a tender) and rolled out onto the highway. Pressed the "on" button and the nice little green light came on in the middle of the control pad. Thumbed over to "Set" and nothin' tried cycling on/off a couple times, tried "accel" and "set" multiple times, but no joy.

Seems like a trip under the hood is in order, but what are the likely candidates?

1) corrosion in the control pad? Always a possibility I think given the non-leak tight nature of it in original form. I did my best to seal it up from the start using liquid electrical tape but it seems possible that i might have gotten moisture in there over time.

2) problem with voltage on the brake line (as appears in this thread) - seems unlikely since it has not been an issue before but a possibility?

3) Mechanical failure - my suspicion would be the little ball chain that makes the last mile connection to the throttle tang. if that failed, might I get this symptom?

4) other?

Anyways, thought I'd throw it by the brain trust and see if there were any suggestions/comments that might steer me in the right direction. Without divine intervention I'll probably tear the stuff out and buy something newer with factory cruise (Gen 3 FJR or S1000XR as leading candidates...)

 

[bergmen]

Searching through the various AVCC threads (most of them long abandoned) this one seems might be related to my new issue. Brodie was gracious enough to do 95% of the install work on my '08 some time ago, like maybe 2011? Anyways, it worked great all the way up until yesterday.
Pulled the black beauty out after a fairly lengthy slumber, started no problem (been on a tender) and rolled out onto the highway. Pressed the "on" button and the nice little green light came on in the middle of the control pad. Thumbed over to "Set" and nothin' tried cycling on/off a couple times, tried "accel" and "set" multiple times, but no joy.

Seems like a trip under the hood is in order, but what are the likely candidates?

1) corrosion in the control pad? Always a possibility I think given the non-leak tight nature of it in original form. I did my best to seal it up from the start using liquid electrical tape but it seems possible that i might have gotten moisture in there over time.

2) problem with voltage on the brake line (as appears in this thread) - seems unlikely since it has not been an issue before but a possibility?

3) Mechanical failure - my suspicion would be the little ball chain that makes the last mile connection to the throttle tang. if that failed, might I get this symptom?

4) other?

Anyways, thought I'd throw it by the brain trust and see if there were any suggestions/comments that might steer me in the right direction. Without divine intervention I'll probably tear the stuff out and buy something newer with factory cruise (Gen 3 FJR or S1000XR as leading candidates...)

I have an Audiovox Schematic and Trouble Shooting Guide I can send you by e-mail (.pdf). No marketing here, I put this together when I was active on the Concours Owners Group forum. Send me an e-mail at bergmen-at-pacific-dot-net (@.) and I'll return with an attachment.

Dan

 

[russperry]

I have an Audiovox Schematic and Trouble Shooting Guide I can send you by e-mail (.pdf). No marketing here, I put this together when I was active on the Concours Owners Group forum. Send me an e-mail at bergmen-at-pacific-dot-net (@.) and I'll return with an attachment.
Dan

Thanks for the assistance Dan - just sent you an email