Kisan in-line HD vs. HD-M w/AVCC

[Dangerous Dave]

So I'm thinking about a Kisan Tailblazer...one of the inline splice-in jobbies rather than the replacement bulbs. I did a search here and read ALOT of old threads on the subject, but still a little in the dark. I have the Audiovox CCS-100 already installed and working fine. If I'm understanding most of what I read correctly, the Kisan bulbs are a definate no-no with the CCS-100. I'm also under the impression that the 100HD inline modulator will render the cruise inop. But at least one of the old threads I read (I'll be damned if I can find it again now) leads me to believe that the Kisan 100HD-M might be compatible, as it appears to be designed for bikes where the brake light circuit is monitored (usually by the ABS ECU). So can anyone who's played this game already confirm or deny for me that the Kisan 100HD-M will play nice with an Audiovox CCS-100??

 

[sirryan]

So I'm thinking about a Kisan Tailblazer...one of the inline splice-in jobbies rather than the replacement bulbs. I did a search here and read ALOT of old threads on the subject, but still a little in the dark. I have the Audiovox CCS-100 already installed and working fine. If I'm understanding most of what I read correctly, the Kisan bulbs are a definate no-no with the CCS-100. I'm also under the impression that the 100HD inline modulator will render the cruise inop. But at least one of the old threads I read (I'll be damned if I can find it again now) leads me to believe that the Kisan 100HD-M might be compatible, as it appears to be designed for bikes where the brake light circuit is monitored (usually by the ABS ECU). So can anyone who's played this game already confirm or deny for me that the Kisan 100HD-M will play nice with an Audiovox CCS-100??

FWIW, all I can tell you is DON'T trust what the folks at kisan tell you regarding their products and whether or not they work with the CCS-100. I tried several "solutions" from them that "should work just fine" and ended up out some shipping and back with my regular brake lights. I did not try the 100hd-m, and was quite frustrated by the time I gave up with them.

Good Luck

SR

 

[crankshaft]

Hey Dave,

Don't blame you for wanting to add something to draw a little more attention. I've had several unattentive drivers ride up on my tail end lately. (I think that's my biggest fear of riding is being hit from behind). Not sure if it will work with the cruise control but I've been thinking about adding this over the winter:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...=120299&hl=

 

[tom b]

I use the Kisan tailblazer. I originally bought the hd model and kept getting an ABS light. Kisan gave me the hd-m version and it's been working fine for 3 years. I can't answer about the cruise control.

 

[v65]

If you wire the cc through a relay then you can put in whatever you want:relay.

 

[sirryan]

If you wire the cc through a relay then you can put in whatever you want:relay.

Ah! Now that's a good solution! I like the normally closed relay option. That looks like THE way to go. Wish I would have thought of that a year ago........

Thanks.

SR

 

[Dangerous Dave]

If you wire the cc through a relay then you can put in whatever you want:relay.

Sweet. Looks simple enough. I know I've got a couple of old fog light relays laying around the garage, but I believe they're normally open. I might have to actually go out and buy a relay, but it will certainly do the job if all else fails.

Tanks man!

 

[ahchiu]

Dave,

Let me know how it come out, I have the Kissan in-line brake modulator and I'm working on getting the CC wired upI would think if you wired the cc befor the Kissan it would be fine but I could be wrong let me know how the relay works. I'm not willing to give up the modulator because I was rearended once already.

 

[TruWrecks]

Marcus, use a relay. It's easy to wire up and will keep the rear modulator in good order.

Connect terminal 85 and 87a to ground (-). Connect 87 to the battery (+). Tap 86 to the brake light wire before the modulator. Wire 30 to the brake wire that goes to the CC until.

That will keep the CC unit from seeing the pulses from the modulator, and ground the CC's brake trigger wire when the brakes are not being used. As soon as the brakes are used the CC unit will see a steady 12V.

 

[Fred W]

Hey Dave,Don't blame you for wanting to add something to draw a little more attention. I've had several unattentive drivers ride up on my tail end lately. (I think that's my biggest fear of riding is being hit from behind). Not sure if it will work with the cruise control but I've been thinking about adding this over the winter:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...=120299&hl=

Dave (et al)

crankshaft is right on the money here for several reasons.

Do consider what he is suggesting.

Running a Kisan Tailblazer will only flash your existing incandescent brake lights. You can only flash the brake bulbs so fast (about 1 /sec) before you will actually lose brightness due to the bulbs never coming fully up to temperature. Flashing the brake bulbs is not very eye catching, IMO. And if you are flashing the main bulbs that slowly it will take several seconds before it will go solid on.

OTOH, for about the same amount of money as the Kisan, you can buy the Whelen LIN3 auxiliary LED light and a 3rd brake light flasher modules detailed in the above linked thread. It is very eye catching and will increase your visibility from behind (when braking) greatly.

With the 3rd brake flasher you can program in many different flash patterns to suit your level of obnoxiousness. I have mine set to strobe 5 times quickly then go steady for as long as I hold the brakes. It catches drivers eyes during the strobe part and they don't know why. Check out my videos linked to from the end of that other thread. The last one, with the Whelen, the flash rate is so fast that the video doesn't catch it well, but believe me, it is very eye catching.

Because any aux light is wired in parallel with the existing brake light, it will not effect your AVCC or ABS. Those items will still see the resistive load of the brake bulb filaments and be happy.

 

[ahchiu]

Marcus, use a relay. It's easy to wire up and will keep the rear modulator in good order.
Connect terminal 85 and 87a to ground (-). Connect 87 to the battery (+). Tap 86 to the brake light wire before the modulator. Wire 30 to the brake wire that goes to the CC until.

That will keep the CC unit from seeing the pulses from the modulator, and ground the CC's brake trigger wire when the brakes are not being used. As soon as the brakes are used the CC unit will see a steady 12V.

TruWrecks,

I will use a relay, thanks for the info. I may PM you when I'm ready to slice and dice my wiring just to be clear.

Thanks

 

[TruWrecks]

Marcus, use a relay. It's easy to wire up and will keep the rear modulator in good order.
Connect terminal 85 and 87a to ground (-). Connect 87 to the battery (+). Tap 86 to the brake light wire before the modulator. Wire 30 to the brake wire that goes to the CC until.

That will keep the CC unit from seeing the pulses from the modulator, and ground the CC's brake trigger wire when the brakes are not being used. As soon as the brakes are used the CC unit will see a steady 12V.

TruWrecks,

I will use a relay, thanks for the info. I may PM you when I'm ready to slice and dice my wiring just to be clear.

Thanks

PM or call. You have my cell #.

 

[ahchiu]

Marcus, use a relay. It's easy to wire up and will keep the rear modulator in good order.
Connect terminal 85 and 87a to ground (-). Connect 87 to the battery (+). Tap 86 to the brake light wire before the modulator. Wire 30 to the brake wire that goes to the CC until.

That will keep the CC unit from seeing the pulses from the modulator, and ground the CC's brake trigger wire when the brakes are not being used. As soon as the brakes are used the CC unit will see a steady 12V.

TruWrecks,

I will use a relay, thanks for the info. I may PM you when I'm ready to slice and dice my wiring just to be clear.

Thanks

PM or call. You have my cell #.

I don't have your cell#

Marcus

 

[TruWrecks]

Here's a simplified wiring I drew for you guys and gals that want to use a CC and modulator:

 

[ahchiu]

Here's a simplified wiring I drew for you guys and gals that want to use a CC and modulator:

Doug,

never mind I do have your #..brain fart.

Thanks

 

[CAJW]

If you wire the cc through a relay then you can put in whatever you want:relay.

Sweet. Looks simple enough. I know I've got a couple of old fog light relays laying around the garage, but I believe they're normally open. I might have to actually go out and buy a relay, but it will certainly do the job if all else fails.

Tanks man!

DD,

I too am intersted in how this works out. I curently have a Kissan Tail Blazer bulb and socket replacement on my 05' Non-ABS and plan on installing my AVCC-CCS-100 this winter.

Thanks for any future updates!

 

[TruWrecks]

BTW, Pep Boys sells a 1W LED 1157 (2ea) replacement for $20 that is very bright. They loose no brightness when modulating the brake. I use those with a Back-Off modulator. Some friends have said they are almost too bright, so I guess cars should see them better.

 

[Fred W]

BTW, Pep Boys sells a 1W LED 1157 (2ea) replacement for $20 that is very bright. They loose no brightness when modulating the brake. I use those with a Back-Off modulator. Some friends have said they are almost too bright, so I guess cars should see them better.

Can you give us some pictures?

I spent a good amount of time and too much money on LED replacement bulbs and still came up empty

Please provide a side by side comparison in both tail light mode (brakes off) and with brake lights on. The easiest way to do that is to have one of the two bulbs a standard 1157 and one be the LED replacement. What I have found is that the LED lights are slightly weaker than LED bulbs with the brakes on and MUCH dimmer in running light mode.

If I could get an LED replacement for $20 a pair that was even AS bright as the regular bulbs, I'd be all over that.

 

[ionbeam]

Ya know, I just happen to own an industrial light meter... it has proven to be a 'subjective brightness' killer. It's also good for mapping the sphere of brightness. Were Helen here she would tell tails of multiple vehicles lined up at midnight just to map headlight brightness, throw and pattern. On one occasion a guy from Chicago flew in just to join in the fun. Be still my beating heart, I don't know if I can stand the excitement :lol: