KrZy8 Gen2 - Charging Circuit

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Thanks JamesK!

I threw the KrZy8 surrender towel and will take Wabs to Castleagar!

Now then, off to order the RR..

 
You should know by now sticking objects into your rectum isn't a good idea....

Oh wait. :blink:

Silly me! :dribble: It's your rectifier that's givin' you shits.. :huh:

Disregard the rectum comment.

 
You should know by now sticking objects into your rectum isn't a good idea....

Oh wait. :blink:

Silly me! :dribble: It's your rectifier that's givin' you shits.. :huh:

Disregard the rectum comment.

You are thinking rectalfrier which is a totaly different device :lol:

 
You should know by now sticking objects into your rectum isn't a good idea....

Oh wait. :blink:

Silly me! :dribble: It's your rectifier that's givin' you shits.. :huh:

Disregard the rectum comment.

You are thinking rectalfrier which is a totaly different device :lol:
WARNING

Taking advise from Bust-a-Nut about electrical issues will drive you to drink. I went through a case of Crown Royal sorting out the mess Bust made of his LED dimmer fiasco.

 
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You should know by now sticking objects into your rectum isn't a good idea....

Oh wait. :blink:

Silly me! :dribble: It's your rectifier that's givin' you shits.. :huh:

Disregard the rectum comment.
You are thinking rectalfrier which is a totaly different device :lol:
WARNING

Taking advise from Bust-a-Nut about electrical issues will drive you to drink. I went through a case of Crown Royal sorting out the mess Bust made of his LED dimmer fiasco.
Bill, didn't Bust help BikerGeek99 lose all of the smoke from his FJR's wiring harness too? You have to be careful, if you lose the wiring smoke it is really hard to get back in the wires. Seeing the Owosso Tech Day pictures, wasn't that the episode where Andy was squealing like a little girl when the smoke escaped? jes' sayin' and nuff' said!

 
Bill, didn't Bust help BikerGeek99 lose all of the smoke from his FJR's wiring harness too? You have to be careful, if you lose the wiring smoke it is really hard to get back in the wires. Seeing the Owosso Tech Day pictures, wasn't that the episode where Andy was squealing like a little girl when the smoke escaped? jes' sayin' and nuff' said!
No no no no no, Don.

Bust let the smoke outta some little piezo thingamabob that was attached to a security system that was on my bike, but he didn't let the smoke out until after it was permanently removed from my bike.

And it was Bust that screamed like a little girl at a boy band concert - I was too busy laughing at him.

 
wow, Dc a lot of over thinking going on and costly. First your battery is going out at 12.7 not enough volts for the amps required you should read more like 13.0 to 13.5 or even to 14 volts. if you are getting correct charging voltage at the battery 13.5 than your stator is ok. you may also have a loose connection or a dirty connection on you ground wire. which as you know is a grounding problem Do a resitance on the stator and see if it is specs that is an easy check ..at the same time why not replace the fuse that services that circuit it could be weak

som different thoughts that cost almost nothing good luck

 
Thanks Weekend Rider!

New RR arrived, installed, and NO difference. 13.5 vdc max at 5k rpm. :angry: :cry:

To recap

  1. OEM stator resistance = sat
  2. 5k 'donor' stator status resistance = sat
  3. OEM stator replaced with 5k donor stator - no fixie
  4. Stator output for both > 90 VAC at 3.5k rpm
  5. OEM voltage RR replaced - no fixie
  6. VDC @ regulator output, unloaded, = 15.5 Vdc
  7. RR outuput (for both RR's) connected, loaded, = 13.5 Vdc
  8. All farkle circuits disconnected - no fixie
  9. All 'house loads' possible disconnected - head, brake, running lights, fans, etc. - no fixie
  10. Resistance on ground cable to ground = ~0.1 ohms IIRC, will recheck today
  11. Vdc delta as measured at battery then at RR output connector = .05 Vdc less
  12. Battery replaced with new
  13. Vdc delta as measured across battery key off then key on = .2 Vdc less
  14. Vdc delta as measured across battery headlights connected then disconnected = 0.2 VDC (13.5 then 13.3)


My best guess is

  1. that a house load(s) e.g. fuel pump, may be drawing excessive current, still within the designed max current value, (fuse value) that's preventing full Vdc charge. That's exactly what happened with Wabs. The dealer ended up replacing stator, RR. No fixie. New fuel pump and woila, all was good.
  2. Rotor has been demagnitized from orig owner crash (not likely me thinks)
  3. ????


I'm gonna find me a local willing to swap tanks (fuel pp) and see if the issue is fixed.

Any other ideas?

Troubleshooting clues?

TIA,

Don

 
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Gosh Don, you sure do make a good argument for driving an electrically stable and reliable Gen I. :unsure:

 
Think you may have it narrowed down Don :p Damn yer hell on fuel pumps!

Maybe your fuel is to thick, try adding some water. ;)

 
Hey Don !

Last Thursday I received a used fuel pump from ebay - saw it listed, thought "Gee, I might need that" and picked it up for a song.

It's from an 06 unknown miles but looks really good. I can ship it up to you, if it does the trick, then you can pay me if not, ship it back?

Let me know -

Hal

Think you may have it narrowed down Don :p Damn yer hell on fuel pumps!

Maybe your fuel is to thick, try adding some water. ;)
Bust, I'm thinking that Karo Syrup might work better...

 
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The one thing that all this points to is a bad battery. Even though you changed it, it doesn't preclude that what you put in is as bad as what you took out. It's not as uncommon as you might think. Your diagnostics continue to show the system is charging when unloaded, and is showing a relatively low rate of charge (13.5) when connected to the battery. The net result is the bike is discharged for the next start.

This still points to battery issues...could be cables, ground etc but I don't think you have eliminated this as root cause, even though you replaced it.

 
Do you have a proper reconditioning charger like an Optimate 3 that you can hang the battery on? It'll tell you if the batery is bad - and it will charge it fully if it is good.

 
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Hey Don !

Last Thursday I received a used fuel pump from ebay - saw it listed, thought "Gee, I might need that" and picked it up for a song.

It's from an 06 unknown miles but looks really good. I can ship it up to you, if it does the trick, then you can pay me if not, ship it back?

Let me know -

Hal
Hal, YES, I'll call you with ideas/options. If I don't get any response from locals about 'Swap a Tank' I'd really need / appreciate your offer. :yahoo:

The one thing that all this points to is a bad battery. Even though you changed it, it doesn't preclude that what you put in is as bad as what you took out. It's not as uncommon as you might think. Your diagnostics continue to show the system is charging when unloaded, and is showing a relatively low rate of charge (13.5) when connected to the battery. The net result is the bike is discharged for the next start.

This still points to battery issues...could be cables, ground etc but I don't think you have eliminated this as root cause, even though you replaced it.
I honestly don't think so, but I do have known good John Deere 870 tractor battery at hand and will test. If you're correct, I'll buy you an expensive cocktail. ;)

Do you have a proper reconditioning charger like an Optimate 3 that you can hang the battery on? It'll tell you if the batery is bad - and it will charge it fully if it is good.
I actually have an Optimate 3, the new battery charges and apparently holds load fine. I have 3 different FJR batteries I've already tried, the original 06 OEM (still in service on a Sears riding mower), it's replacement battery, and the new one.

Gosh Don, you sure do make a good argument for driving an electrically stable and reliable Gen I. :unsure:
I am starting to think RadioHowie has it right 'Redefining electrical integrity since 2006'... :glare:
Maybe there's an electrical voltage vortex in the Creston area...... :dntknw:
Definitely.. among other vortexes... Hey Mikee, still have the car battery from Death Valley? :p :p
 
Could something like fuel pump really take that much juice?

I would have thought something like the fans, which are designed to suck a lot of power to start with might get real thirsty as they start to age and wear. I can definitely tell that my charging goes to crap when the fan kick in now a days. Haven't gotten around to measuring the Amps they draw yet, the weather is too nice to be stuck in the garage wrenching.

 
Could something like fuel pump really take that much juice?

I would have thought something like the fans, which are designed to suck a lot of power to start with might get real thirsty as they start to age and wear. I can definitely tell that my charging goes to crap when the fan kick in now a days. Haven't gotten around to measuring the Amps they draw yet, the weather is too nice to be stuck in the garage wrenching.
Hey James, good to hear from you again, and Thank You. Yes, on Wabs, my DL650, the fuel pump was just at max current draw, occasionally exceeding, and blowing fuse. Similar output, 13.2, to 12.9 Vdc. Replacing fuel pump, now constantly 14.7, 14.5 depending upon hi beams, lo beams, heated gear. I'm hoping it's that simple.. ;)
 
It's the Electra Glide using the electronic wormhole in Creston to suck life out of the FJR. :rolleyes:

Jealousy is a terrible thing! :eek:

 
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