Looked at a 93 DR350 yesterday

[not2shabby]

Ok, I got the compression tester and only got ~ 60 lbs, but I wasn't sure I was kicking it hard/fast enough to get a good reading. This thing is hard to kick fast w/o the decomp lever. So I tried it on the XR100 and KE100 and only got about 65 lbs and they both run fine. I took the carb off and put a small washer in to take the place of the missing spacer and tried it again...no joy. I checked the spark again, it's nice and blue. Even tried a new plug, nothing. If the kill switch was bad, it wouldn't spark at all, would it?

I'm stumped :angry: ...any suggestions?

 

[UberKul]

Ok, I got the compression tester and only got ~ 60 lbs, but I wasn't sure I was kicking it hard/fast enough to get a good reading. This thing is hard to kick fast w/o the decomp lever. So I tried it on the XR100 and KE100 and only got about 65 lbs and they both run fine. I took the carb off and put a small washer in to take the place of the missing spacer and tried it again...no joy. I checked the spark again, it's nice and blue. Even tried a new plug, nothing. If the kill switch was bad, it wouldn't spark at all, would it?

I'm stumped :angry: ...any suggestions?

I had a hell of a time getting my brother's CRF250r to start after some engine work not to long ago. Kicking just wore me out so I had my daughter pull me up and down the driveway behind a quad until it fired. Make a few adjustments, pull start and repeat. Odds are your carb jets are clogged. Might be best to order all new OEM jets and replace to get a baseline established on fueling.

 

[not2shabby]

Ok, I got the compression tester and only got ~ 60 lbs, but I wasn't sure I was kicking it hard/fast enough to get a good reading. This thing is hard to kick fast w/o the decomp lever. So I tried it on the XR100 and KE100 and only got about 65 lbs and they both run fine. I took the carb off and put a small washer in to take the place of the missing spacer and tried it again...no joy. I checked the spark again, it's nice and blue. Even tried a new plug, nothing. If the kill switch was bad, it wouldn't spark at all, would it?

I'm stumped :angry: ...any suggestions?

I had a hell of a time getting my brother's CRF250r to start after some engine work not to long ago. Kicking just wore me out so I had my daughter pull me up and down the driveway behind a quad until it fired. Make a few adjustments, pull start and repeat. Odds are your carb jets are clogged. Might be best to order all new OEM jets and replace to get a baseline established on fueling.

I just installed a new needle and main jet, new O rings and a bowl gasket and sprayed the hell out of all the passages. I'm sure it's clean, it didn't look bad to begin with. I've been trying to bump start it rolling down the sloped driveway and every 3rd or 4th time it'll fire for a second or 2 and then die or backfire. The other times it locks up the rear and leaves a skid mark. The wife is thrilled...

Do you think mmaybe the kill switch is shorting? How can I bypass it?

I'm about ready to set it on fire!

 

[mk2wilson]

If it was the kill switch I wouldn't think it would fire at all.

 

[dcarver]

You say you cleaned all the jets and what not, but what about the air passages in the carb bell inlet?

Is the float level set correctly?

Is the float valve and seat sealing correctly and/or allowing fuel into the bowl?

A cheap way of measuring fuel height is to simply find plastic tubing of correct OD to jam up into the bottom of drain plug. Of course, drain the bowl first, jam tube in, turn gas on.

SuperS0phistacated, yes?

Tang measurement

Fuel height correct.

 

[not2shabby]

If it was the kill switch I wouldn't think it would fire at all.

That's what I thought. Maybe the sidestand switch? Intermittant failure? How do you bypass these?

 

[not2shabby]

Dcarver, you talked me into cleaning/checking the carb again...dammit! I'm sure gas is getting into the bowl cause I removed the carb yesterday and cranked the linkage to test the pumper and it squirted a healthy stream of fuel. I set the float according to Jesse's recommendation at 9/16. The float valve looked good, no sign of wear and moved freely. I tested it by blowing into the gas inlet and it sealed when it should and flowed air when open. Maybe I didn't get the air passages good enough. Nice setup for checking the gas level ya got there! WTH do those carbs go to? Thanks!

 

[FJRay]

When you have it apart make sure you pull the tube out that the main jet screws into. It has a bunch of small holes that need to be cleaned out or it won't run.

 

[not2shabby]

When you have it apart make sure you pull the tube out that the main jet screws into. It has a bunch of small holes that need to be cleaned out or it won't run.

Will do! Don't know when I'll get to it, we have 'date night' tonight and might go to a hot air balloon show in Marysville tomorrow. I think I need a break anyway. I'll let you guys know if/when there's any progress. Thanks again!

 

[dcarver]

This is what it looks like..

 

[dcarver]

Oh, these carbs are for a 79 KZ1300 Kawasaki. Six cylinder.

 

[not2shabby]

Ahhh, I was thinking a big tripple, but couldn't figure out the 2 inlets on each one!

 

[not2shabby]

Well, I tore it down again yesterday after the carb clean didn't work. Checked the cam timing and whoa! It was about 20 degrees off! WTF! I checked it several times before putting it back together. Sumting wong. Could the rotor be on wrong? I took a flashlight and looked in the sparkplug hole while turning it over. Ok, the piston is at TDC...now! Hmmmm, the timing mark isn't lining up with the crankcase mark?! I think it's time to pull the rotor. The frekin' key is sheared off! Unbelievable! Time to steal some more parts from the blown motor! Hopefully I'll have it running today.

 

[not2shabby]

IT'S ALIVE!!!! :yahoo: But...it's leaking oil like crazy around the clutch cover and the shifting is notchy after 2nd. I think I read a fix for for that. Now I gotta get a clutch gasket. I knew I should have ordered one.

Here she is.

Idle is a little high, got to adjust that!

This little bastid should be one piece!

 

[mk2wilson]

Once you got it all back together were you able to kick it over, or did you have to push start it?

 

[not2shabby]

Once you got it all back together were you able to kick it over, or did you have to push start it?

Fired up second kick! The 'drill' I got from the DR guys at Maximum Suzuki forum for cold starts is this:

Full choke

Pull and hold decomp lever

Kick over 10-12 times quickly

Push kickstarter slowly until the decomp lever pops out and stop right there.

Let the kickstarter go back up

Give her a good kick! If it doesn't fire the first time, keep using the decomp to find TDC before kicking again.

I know a lot of guys say they are hard to start, but some guys say theirs start 1 or 2 kicks. I think maybe I got lucky...finally!

Do you have a pumper carb? I guess they're easier to start for some reason. Good luck!

 

[dcarver]

WooHoo4You! :yahoo:

 

[Niehart]

WooHoo4You! :yahoo:

+1

 

[not2shabby]

Well crap. I checked on my gasket order yesterday and it won't be here till Sat or maybe Mon. So I got the bright idea of trying to make my own. Went to Autozone and got a sheet of gasket material for use in contact with oil. Should work, Right? Nope, it still leaked a little bit at the bottom right corner of the cover. Took over an hour to trace and cut it out too. Dayum. I also discovered the main oil line from the frame was oozing oil too. That stopped after snugging up the fitting but I think I'll replace the crush washers for peace of mind.

It fired up on the 1st kick last night! I may take a short test ride to see if the shifting is sorted out, it was difficult to get in 3rd the other night. Is there a trick to lining up the shift shaft fork with the shift drum? It looks right to me, the fork/drum gears mesh in the middle, but it seems like the drum might not be in the right position. I can manually shift it to 1st and neutral(with the cover off) but 3rd doesn't want to go. On the test ride the other night I had to double clutch it to get into 3rd.

 

[dcarver]

Well crap. I checked on my gasket order yesterday and it won't be here till Sat or maybe Mon. So I got the bright idea of trying to make my own. Went to Autozone and got a sheet of gasket material for use in contact with oil. Should work, Right? Nope, it still leaked a little bit at the bottom right corner of the cover. Took over an hour to trace and cut it out too. Dayum. I also discovered the main oil line from the frame was oozing oil too. That stopped after snugging up the fitting but I think I'll replace the crush washers for peace of mind.

It fired up on the 1st kick last night! I may take a short test ride to see if the shifting is sorted out, it was difficult to get in 3rd the other night. Is there a trick to lining up the shift shaft fork with the shift drum? It looks right to me, the fork/drum gears mesh in the middle, but it seems like the drum might not be in the right position. I can manually shift it to 1st and neutral(with the cover off) but 3rd doesn't want to go. On the test ride the other night I had to double clutch it to get into 3rd.

The shifting issue sounds like possibly a bent shift fork. Assuming the clutch is properly disengaging that is..