Looked at a 93 DR350 yesterday

[not2shabby]

I've been trying NOT to think that's the problem!! Oh, well...I still have the bottom end of the other motor...just have to split cases..swap trannies...no biggie.. :angry2:

The clutch is working fine, I can put it in gear and pull the lever and there's no drag pushing it.

It might be just the L shaped bracket the shift drum rotates on. It has a little roller that fits in the detents and is easily bent or the washer behind it can wear grooves in it causing drag. I hope..if the test ride still has shifting problems.

 

[dcarver]

Be sure to check the return springs too...

 

[not2shabby]

I thought about that, the shift shaft spring doesn't feel as strong as the one in the other motor. I'll try swapping that out when the gasket gets here. Can you reuse the shaft seal or should I order that too?! Maybe I'll get this thing ridable by X-mas!

 

[dcarver]

Your thread is now my favorite..

 

Replace the shaft seal. Cheap, and while you are there - only makes sense.

 

I had a kx500 with a broken SS spring.. caused a false neutral over a 80 foot table top.

So painful...

Ride in bed of PU truck

Could not stand..

 

Hey, thanks for that memory!

:lol:

 

[not2shabby]

Eh, I do what I can! 80 ft jump, huh? I don't see anything like that in my future! Actually, I haven't ridden a dirt bike since I was 15 and learned how to ride on my cousins YZ125 down in West-by-God-Virginnia! It'll probably scare the poop out me the first time I get both wheels off the ground at the same time.

Ok, gotta go add a shift shaft seal to my order!

 

[not2shabby]

Ok, still waiting for parts to arrive, but yesterday I put the rear end on a stand and turned the back wheel while shifting through the gears to see if I could get the shifter to work. Last time I rode it, while leaking oil, I had a heck of time getting it into 3rd. It seems like the ratcheting mechanism on the shift drum is hanging up, the little pins that the springs push into place seem like they don't want to move unless I jiggle the shifter. So, I thought I'd swap out the pieces from the blown motor but....I can't get the damn screws loose! I'm sure they used red locktite. Would it be a bad idea to heat them with a propane torch? I don't want to start a fire with all the oil residue in the motor! Or would an impact driver be enough? Of course mine is broken...Sear's hardware was closed by the time I decided I needed a new one!

Or does it sound like a bent shift fork? Please say no...

 

[not2shabby]

Pretty self explanatory, not on a FJR. I've never had to remove anything like this before. They hold the shift star bracket on the end of the shift drum. Thanks!

In case you're wondering.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=147205&st=80

 

[RossKean]

If its genuine red Locktite, you are going to have to heat it if you want it removed. Otherwise, you are likely to bugger the threads or the head of the fastener. Having said this - just because the stuff is red, it doesn't necessarily mean its red Locktite! Other sources of thread locking compounds may not use a similar color convention. (I think Yamaha's is different). Proceed with care, heat gently and be prepared to heat a lot harder if it doesn't move.

Ross

Edit: Use a pencil butane torch and don't overheat anything. The small flame will help confine the heat to the offending fastener.

Edit again: A few minutes ago, this was a separate topic; now added to another thread??? Oh well.

 

[not2shabby]

According to the Suzuki shop manual, it's Suzuki 'superbond' #blah, blah, blah! I'm assuming it's comparable to red locktite, I've smacked a big phillips screwdriver into the head with a hammer several times and it's not getting loose!

 

[dcarver]

Now were off to the rodeo!~

 

[not2shabby]

Allllllrighty then, last night the clutch cover gasket and some crush washers and o-rings arrived. I also got the shift shaft, seal, pawl mechanism, and a new detent arm installed. Shifting throuhg the gears by hand was much better! So I fire it up, (1st kick again!) and look down to see oil gushing from the 2 bolts that hold the clutch cable bracket and clutch cover...damn. Evidently I need some new crush washers there. Couldn't even test ride it was leaking that bad. Grrrrrr. Maybe Iron Pony will have some, surely they use them on some other bikes.

 

[FJRay]

Allllllrighty then, last night the clutch cover gasket and some crush washers and o-rings arrived. I also got the shift shaft, seal, pawl mechanism, and a new detent arm installed. Shifting throuhg the gears by hand was much better! So I fire it up, (1st kick again!) and look down to see oil gushing from the 2 bolts that hold the clutch cable bracket and clutch cover...damn. Evidently I need some new crush washers there. Couldn't even test ride it was leaking that bad. Grrrrrr. Maybe Iron Pony will have some, surely they use them on some other bikes.

You should be able to get copper or aluminum sealing washers at any decent auto parts store.

 

[not2shabby]

Allllllrighty then, last night the clutch cover gasket and some crush washers and o-rings arrived. I also got the shift shaft, seal, pawl mechanism, and a new detent arm installed. Shifting throuhg the gears by hand was much better! So I fire it up, (1st kick again!) and look down to see oil gushing from the 2 bolts that hold the clutch cable bracket and clutch cover...damn. Evidently I need some new crush washers there. Couldn't even test ride it was leaking that bad. Grrrrrr. Maybe Iron Pony will have some, surely they use them on some other bikes.

You should be able to get copper or aluminum sealing washers at any decent auto parts store.

I thought of that, but ones that seal around the clutch cable bracket are rubber coated.

 

[not2shabby]

Guess what I rode to work this morning? Yep! It wasn't the washers to the oil line or bolts on the clutch cover leaking...some dumbazz let the gasket slip down a little bit while installing the clutch cover! All better now! It still has a slight leak, I think the hose going to the rocker cover needs a new clamp. I don't know which part or combination of parts I swapped out to fix the shifting issue worked, but it shifts like butta!

Thanks to all who offered advice and/or tech support! You guys are great! :yahoo: :yahoo:

 

[HotRodZilla]

That's frigging awesome!!

 

[dcarver]

What a great feeling it must have been to ride that bike to work today!

There is something special about riding a scoot that YOU put back together or, even better, brought back to life!

 

I fully get it!

 

Congrats amigo!

 

[not2shabby]

Thanks guys....but...I found out the leak is coming from a stripped bolt holding the rocker cover to the cylinder head! Of course it's one right next to the cam on the right rear side. Can it be helicoiled or timeserted? I've never done either...Help! :angry:

I really can't believe it's stripped, I didn't go nuts torqueing it down. It might have been that way when I got it and didn't notice.

 

[UberKul]

Thanks guys....but...I found out the leak is coming from a stripped bolt holding the rocker cover to the cylinder head! Of course it's one right next to the cam on the right rear side. Can it be helicoiled or timeserted? I've never done either...Help! :angry:

I really can't believe it's stripped, I didn't go nuts torqueing it down. It might have been that way when I got it and didn't notice.

I have a similar situation on my DR, a valve cover bolt with very flaky threads. Holds and doesn't leak but needs to be fixed. I bought some of this to use next time I need to get into the top end. You might want to give it a try before drilling.

 

[not2shabby]

Awesome! I'll give it a shot, that bolt doesn't take a lot of torque so I think it should work. Thanks!

 

[not2shabby]

Hmmm, been doing some reading. Anybody think a thread chaser might fix it?