Looking for headlights, but not HID's

[TomInPA]

I just priced them out and the cost is $99.54

Bulb Size: 9003/H4 Bi-Zenon High/Low

Heat Color: 4,300 Factory

Capacitor: Excluded Capacitor

Warranty: Excluded

Shipping: FREE

Total $99.54

Worried about installation, there a document//link on how to install it?

That's a great price. But, do you really think that these $100 HID last as long as the stock bulbs?

I know you said you didn't want to go HID, but, at a total cost under $100 shipped, there is nothing you can do that will add this much visibility to your ride. It increases safety for daytime riding, and gives you the range to see forest rats at night. The lighting power is simply awesome, and no incandescent can come close, and it cuts your wattage consumption from 55/60 watts/bulb to just 37 accounting for ballast inefficiency. That is a net 50 watts savings, which means more to a Gen I, but can't hurt. In terms of work, you will have to remove the ABCD panels, make a battery and ground connection. On a Gen I I can swap the bulbs and do the install with no further disassembly, (although removing the front cowling does help make for a neater easier install IMO.

If you do order the HID kit, you will need two H4 bixenon and I recommend the 4300K color. You don't need the capacitor or canbus options. The kit from HIDcountry comes with slim ballasts, that can be tucked into the side coweling in front and below the battery, and in front of the glove box, assuming you don't want to remove the nose cone. Good luck.

I have an installation with pictures on here, and can assure you it is very easy to do. The bulbs fit in the same as any other H4 bulb. You will unclip the spring retainer on your old bulbs, swing it out of the way, remove old bulds, install the new ones in their place and close the spring clip. The 3-prong connector for your bulbs attaches to the HID wiring harness. Just connect it, then start stuffing the wire harness and ballast into the fairing on both sides. You will need to make one direct connection to the battery. Just put the two fused wire supplies into a single ring terminal and connect to the battery. It is best to keep the inline fuse in a place you can get to it if needed. Ground connections are to any screw on the frame or the battery ground. That's it.

As far as the bulbs lasting, there is no filament to break. These lights strike an arc and that is the light source. I have found this set to be much more reliable and long-lasting than H4 halogen. If you have a bulb or ballast failure, remember that all you need to do is unplug the HID harness and plug in a halogen bulb. It is just that easy.

The dual kits:

Bulbs

HID bulb clipped into headlight socket

This is where the ballast, igniter and wiring can fit into the fairing. I had the nose cone off to do some other work. This is mostly accessible without removing the nose cone. Since you have a Gen II I would expect some differences. This is just loosely set in. I later went back with wire-ties and velcro to neaten things up.

Sweet! Don't forget to properly aim or you will get unwanted attention.

Sweet! Be sure to aim properly, or oncoming drivers may object.

 

[SkooterG]

I have an installation with pictures on here, and can assure you it is very easy to do.

Sorry Tom, but you are smoking something funny. Also, if you *REALLY* believe it is easy to do, it also makes me wonder about your claims of HID being so superior. Me thinks you are looking through HID colored glasses.

And Tom, where's the rubber boot in your installation? I think they put those there for a reason?

And on a seperate note, folks, how about we get control of our quoting previous posts? Lots of times it is not necessary and just makes the new post all that much harder to read.

 

[TomInPA]

I know you said you didn't want to go HID, but, at a total cost under $100 shipped, there is nothing you can do that will add this much visibility to your ride. It increases safety for daytime riding, and gives you the range to see forest rats at night. The lighting power is simply awesome, and no incandescent can come close, and it cuts your wattage consumption from 55/60 watts/bulb to just 37 accounting for ballast inefficiency. That is a net 50 watts savings, which means more to a Gen I, but can't hurt.

Let's just say I disagree!

As for the 'claimed' watt savings, have you done measurements to confirm? The only *actual* measurements I have seen on this forum have not shown any watt savings.

I am a HUGE skeptic when it come to add-on HID lighting kits added to vehicles not designed to be HID from the get-go. Also skeptical of 'claimed' power savings, and people's 'claims' of such superior lighting. Afterall, several years ago somebody came on the forum and swore up and down that the Fitch Fuel Catalyst was giving him better fuel mileage and power. And I have definitely seen some *bad* HID lighting kits.

As far as power savings, I have only anecdotal observations, but I think it would be interesting to measure the power draw if I can locate the right instrument. My next door neighbor is an electrical engineer and might have what I'm looking for.

As far as the huge improvement in lighting, a side-by-side comparison is pretty convincing. OEM lighs and even silverstars look like dim glow-bulbs in comparison. The light field is better defined when properly aimed, and completely overwhelms stock lighting. One of the biggest differences is how cage drivers react. They actually see the bike with these, and the difference was immediately noticeable. I have since added Clearwater lights, After riding with Brodie, I am convinced you can never do too much to increase your visibility.

 

[TomInPA]

I have an installation with pictures on here, and can assure you it is very easy to do.

Sorry Tom, but you are smoking something funny. Also, if you *REALLY* believe it is easy to do, it also makes me wonder about your claims of HID being so superior. Me thinks you are looking through HID colored glasses.

And Tom, where's the rubber boot in your installation? I think they put those there for a reason?

And on a seperate note, folks, how about we get control of our quoting previous posts? Lots of times it is not necessary and just makes the new post all that much harder to read.

I had the nose cone off, and think most people will need to at least loosen it to get enough access for a good installation.

Rubber boot thingys:

I will back off quoting now Scooter. :blink:

 

[SkooterG]

In my experience, it's the rubber boots that are one of the major PITA issues. Good to see you got them on there.

I haven't been paying attention - is this a high/lo beam kit? If so, I have yet to see a hi/lo kit that does both well. Nor would I want to live without my high beam.

 

[TriggerT]

Um, I would like to point out that the install Tom is talking about is on a Gen 1. The install on a Gen 2 is MUCH harder, since there is a lot less space, and taking the nose off is not an easy thing to do. Just my $0.02.

 

[SkooterG]

Um, I would like to point out that the install Tom is talking about is on a Gen 1. The install on a Gen 2 is MUCH harder, since there is a lot less space, and taking the nose off is not an easy thing to do. Just my $0.02.

Good point. I thought he was talking about a Gen II. Definitely easier on a Gen I, though still not 'easy'.

 

[TomInPA]

The OP sent a message to me, and I pointed out the Gen II may be a different difficulty for install. There are a number of installations using slim ballasts on both generations. Difficulty is relative, and while I find I can break down the nose cone in about 30 minutes, for some it is an all-day job. I still say the installation is easy based on being a plug and play system. The challenge is just stuffing wires and the ballast out of the way. There is nothing technical about it. If you can skin the bike, you can install these. If you don't want to remove any plastic, then this might not be your project.

This is a high / low kit. I hope we get a chance to ride sometime and maybe we can show what it does in person. The installation of HID lights in a FJR seems to result in a ridiculously high headlight aim. If not corrected, the low beam doesn't hit the ground until 30-40 feet out and the high beam just lights up the trees. Properly lowering the aim gives good fill under both high and low beam, but the low beam can cutoff too short in turns. Adding auxiliary lighting helped fill in some of the issues created by the beam pattern, but overall it was very efficient lighting with good range and color. JMHO.

I do think these kits have improved in quality and reliability over the past five or so years. I have ordered from several different companies, and these kits have the best shielding on the bulbs and have been reliable for me over many miles. I did have an issue with a Generation 4 HID ballast, and HIDcountry backed up my purchase by completely replacing the kit with the current motorcycle slim ballast kit with absolutely not a dime out of my pocket. As a consequence I have more experience in putting these into my bike, cause, I have done it twice, and I have installed them in other motorcycles and cars.

 

[TriggerT]

I don't think this is a hard thing to install on the technical side, but it is a MAJOR pain in the ass. I have not taken the plastic off either time I have installed them, but as I stated above the forks were removed the 2nd time I installed them (I was changing the fork oil at the time) which made it a little easier.

Even with it being such a pain, I still would make the switch as one of the first farkles on any future bike I buy, but I also ride a lot at night so it is worth it for me.

 

[FJRski_2007]

SkooterG,

you said "not designed to be HID from the get-go". What does a bike need to be designed for HID?

I know you said you didn't want to go HID, but, at a total cost under $100 shipped, there is nothing you can do that will add this much visibility to your ride. It increases safety for daytime riding, and gives you the range to see forest rats at night. The lighting power is simply awesome, and no incandescent can come close, and it cuts your wattage consumption from 55/60 watts/bulb to just 37 accounting for ballast inefficiency. That is a net 50 watts savings, which means more to a Gen I, but can't hurt.

Let's just say I disagree!

As for the 'claimed' watt savings, have you done measurements to confirm? The only *actual* measurements I have seen on this forum have not shown any watt savings.

I am a HUGE skeptic when it come to add-on HID lighting kits added to vehicles not designed to be HID from the get-go. Also skeptical of 'claimed' power savings, and people's 'claims' of such superior lighting. Afterall, several years ago somebody came on the forum and swore up and down that the Fitch Fuel Catalyst was giving him better fuel mileage and power. And I have definitely seen some *bad* HID lighting kits.

 

[bramfrank]

I'll say it again; The reflector in the FJR is not designed around the use of a broad light soutrce of the type that an HID bulb produces - as such the plasma ball generates a very sloppy light pattern, even when it is as good as it gets and if your bulb has the required, but often not present plasma shield.

As to power savings; All ballasts will suck a huge amount of strike power, but once warmed, the *better ones* tend to be 90+% efficient and the D2S bulb sinks about 35 watts - so that is about 40 watts a side compared with 55 or 60 for tungsten/halogen.

Of course you can't put a modulator on an HID bulb and the conversion is outright illegal in all states and in Canada (note for those whose states impose annual inspections) but if you like blinding oncoming traffic in both high AND low beams and don't care about the amount of luminance you toss around (dazzle), then go for it.

I run stock bulbs with modulators and have HID aux driving lights.

Note that 4200k is the color temp you want to buy if you are buying.

 

[FJRski_2007]

It appears that Philips makes four different H4/9003 bulbs:

Premium

ExtraDuty

MotoVision

XP Moto

https://www.lighting.philips.com/in_en/consumer/carlighting/2_2wheeler_lighting/2wheeler_which_lamp_which_function.php?main=in_en_consumer_lighting&parent=89083467512&id=in_en_car_lighting&lang=en

Which is the stock OEM one and which would you suggest?

 

[FJRski_2007]

It appears that only MotoVision is sold in U.S. at Kmart or CarQuest.

 

[FJRski_2007]

I think these are the stock bulb:

https://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=5000&L2=7&L3=&L4=&item=PHI_9003MVS1_G

 

[Spud]

Of course you can't put a modulator on an HID bulb and the conversion is outright illegal in all states and in Canada (note for those whose states impose annual inspections) but if you like blinding oncoming traffic in both high AND low beams and don't care about the amount of luminance you toss around (dazzle), then go for it.

If it's illegal then I'm done. 145hp motorcycles are all about NOT breaking the law! :lol:

 

[FJRski_2007]

I just removed the right bulb, it took me 20 minutes, I still need to remove the left side.

Left side, I mean the clutch side. Which side is more difficult? Also, the stock bulb model number is Philips H4 12342 12V 60/55W. According to Google, cost around $4.99 each.

 

[CAJW]

I am so FRIKIN' confused! I really don't need any additional lighting on my bike, but..........

I would like any extra wattage I can squeeze out of my Gen I stator as I'm wanting to put a Powerlet plug in for the Mrs. to run some heated gear. Yes.. I know, I'll probably have to limit the use of the Solteks if running both of our heated gear set ups, but am considering a HID headlight swap solely for more wattage. Tom, please post up any test results with your Electrical Engineer neighbor as inquiring minds want to know. Thanks. John

 

[FJRski_2007]

I like the smaller lights, who makes them?

I am so FRIKIN' confused! I really don't need any additional lighting on my bike, but..........

I would like any extra wattage I can squeeze out of my Gen I stator as I'm wanting to put a Powerlet plug in for the Mrs. to run some heated gear. Yes.. I know, I'll probably have to limit the use of the Solteks if running both of our heated gear set ups, but am considering a HID headlight swap solely for more wattage. Tom, please post up any test results with your Electrical Engineer neighbor as inquiring minds want to know. Thanks. John

 

[CAJW]

Clearwater Glendas. Clearwater

 

[Patriot]

I just removed the right bulb, it took me 20 minutes, I still need to remove the left side.

Left side, I mean the clutch side. Which side is more difficult? Also, the stock bulb model number is Philips H4 12342 12V 60/55W. According to Google, cost around $4.99 each.

assuming gen i and ii same issues with frame in nose support on right (brake side), the left side is twice easier unless small hands and long slim fingers that helps the right side work

it's not bad after doing it once or twice...I used to get my daughter to position the bulb in the holder and then I set the clamp, etc. I did it myself last time

After trying the Silverstars (not the extreme expensive Ultras) and reading that they are short lived and prone to vibration (mine only lasted a few months each),

now both of mine are the OEM basic Sylvanias from AutoZone (about $10).

plus I have plenty lighting for those vampire rides:

Clearwater Lights