Oil Change Debacle with Drain Plug?
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HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Plus ONE. That YouTube fix sounds like a good way to end up with oil blowing out of the bottom of your bike, all over the rear tire, right before that left hand downhill hairpin turn near the top of Pikes Peak.
"Oh ****...Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah."
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
Plus one on snug only..
BTW, one my Yamaha outboard engine (F150, 4 stroke), it uses the exact same plug and a cast oil pan. Yamaha torque spec's for the drain plug is 20 Ft lbs.
My friend stripped his on his 07 and had it fixed with a heli coil (by the shop he bought it from). The heli coil, with its raised lip, slightly limited FULL oil drainage as its lip was above the lowest part of the pan. Ceratinly not a deal breaker, but you will NOT get all the oil out as you would with a non repaired pan. Also, if there's any fine (bad) debris in the pan, it most likely won't drain out as the lip of the heli coil will keep it on the engine.
As a side note, in the FZ6 Yamaha shop manual, there's several typo's/mistakes including turning the crank shaft BACKWARDS when checking valve clearances (same set up as the FJR), not forward, normal rotation.
Something else discussed with a Honda service manager (my old Goldwing with an issue), should Yamaha acknowledge the torque is too tight for that drain bolt, they'd be liable for ALL PREVIOUS DAMAGE/REPAIRS. And you know that won't happen...
BTW, one my Yamaha outboard engine (F150, 4 stroke), it uses the exact same plug and a cast oil pan. Yamaha torque spec's for the drain plug is 20 Ft lbs.
My friend stripped his on his 07 and had it fixed with a heli coil (by the shop he bought it from). The heli coil, with its raised lip, slightly limited FULL oil drainage as its lip was above the lowest part of the pan. Ceratinly not a deal breaker, but you will NOT get all the oil out as you would with a non repaired pan. Also, if there's any fine (bad) debris in the pan, it most likely won't drain out as the lip of the heli coil will keep it on the engine.
As a side note, in the FZ6 Yamaha shop manual, there's several typo's/mistakes including turning the crank shaft BACKWARDS when checking valve clearances (same set up as the FJR), not forward, normal rotation.
Something else discussed with a Honda service manager (my old Goldwing with an issue), should Yamaha acknowledge the torque is too tight for that drain bolt, they'd be liable for ALL PREVIOUS DAMAGE/REPAIRS. And you know that won't happen...
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RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
....or if the bolt is JUST a little too long, #1 cylinder rod journal comes by for a visit and airmails your new, longer bolt into next week, along with 4 quarts of fresh oil and a few (several) hundred dollars for your supposed cheap-assed fix.
interesting reading.
factory crush washer to finger snug plus 1/2+/- turn and it's good.
you feel the crusher collapse and snug and done.
ALSO,
i do like the magnetic plug drilled for safety wire... anyone have a linky??
factory crush washer to finger snug plus 1/2+/- turn and it's good.
you feel the crusher collapse and snug and done.
ALSO,
i do like the magnetic plug drilled for safety wire... anyone have a linky??
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infrared
Well-known member
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crumpadump
Well-known member
Just got wind of this discussion. If you have any more problems with it leaking pm me I have a time cert set used for my stripped out differential last year I can loan you.
Denver_FJR
Well-known member
Probably stick a 4" bolt up there and not hit anything, not that I think using a longer bolt while hoping there remains enough unstripped threads to hold it in place is a good idea.
Pics compliments of rPGoatBoy
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
If'n yer gonna Hillbilly the darn thing?
Just weld the hole shut and add a couple of self tapping screws.. Sure it's gonna drain slow, but given a few oil changes you can add screws till you get it right.
I still can't believe it's now 4 pages dedicated to something that never should have happened if somebody would have read the sign up sheet here.
Just weld the hole shut and add a couple of self tapping screws.. Sure it's gonna drain slow, but given a few oil changes you can add screws till you get it right.
I still can't believe it's now 4 pages dedicated to something that never should have happened if somebody would have read the sign up sheet here.
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HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Bust you *******...That's what makes it so dammed entertaining!
Denver_FJR
Well-known member
... and by the way, if you're going to drop the oil pan, be sure to torque the nuts to 12Nm/8.7lb-ft
Donal
Well-known member
Shouldn't that be lb.ft (pounds multiplied by feet)?... and by the way, if you're going to drop the oil pan, be sure to torque the nuts to 12Nm/8.7lb-ft
dj bill
Well-known member
I knew a **** named snug,she wasnt
Spud
Well-known member
JPicks
New member
I had the same problem this spring with my final drive oil drain bolt. PO had stripped the threads. Honest. I didn't do it! Any way, after some soul searching and a bit of swearing, I ended up at my local NAPA parts store and told the guy behind the counter my story. He asked for the size and thread pitch of the bolt (M14/1.5), went to the shelf and got me a self threading bolt of the right size and thread pitch that is over-sized. It's made specifically for this problem. My new OE crush washer was a bit of a tight fit, but it did fit, and I was able to torque to the recommended 17 ft/lb no problem. Not a hint of a leak. Cost me about $6.50 Cdn. The only difference is that now, instead of my drain bolt needing a 17mm wrench, it's a 19mm. Oh, and it doesn't have a magnet on it like the OE part did. Easy fix!
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Stop the madness...
ahchiu
FJR Commander
I put an old tank bag magnet on the oil filter.
Holderfjr
Active member
I have the same problem. What is the dealer going to charge in labor hours to replace the drain pan?
Thanks
Thanks
I see that you have a 2014. Was this on the first (600 mi.) oil change or a subsequent one?
If subsequent, who did the last oil change?
Did the threads pull out when you removed the drain plug or when you were installing it and over tightened it.
The reason that I ask these questions is that I assume that the new bike is still under warranty. If the threads pulled out when you were removing the drain plug, and you were not the one that put the plug in there, you have a good case for the dealership to fix your bike under the warranty.
OTOH, if you were (over) tightening the plug when it stripped, it will probably be on your dime. In which case your best bet would just be to ask them what the flat rate of the job will be.
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