Photo's of how to get under the Tank

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Rickster, Great instructions and photos, thanks for taking the time and trouble to go through this process just to help us out. Even though I have already done this mod on my bike, had a write-up with the photos like your's been around then, it would have made life a lot easier. Your directions not only eliminate any guess work, they would have kept me from wondering if I did have the right spring as well.

GREAT JOB!!!

 
Wow... if you aren't already a pro photographer and/or technical writer, you've missed your calling! I've tried doing closeups like that, and getting things posed, lit, framed, and everything else is "decidedly non-trivial" as my boss would put it.

Thank you. I will be doing the throttle spring this weekend, as this answered all my questions about it.

 
OK, did the spring mod last night and my wrest is happy!

Here is what I noticed: There are 5 throttle shaft springs, one controls the main cam that the two throttle cables connect to. It is the spring just to the right of that throttle cam. The other four seem to control individule throttle body butterflies. I released the "main cam" spring (comletely disconnected it from that cam tab). The remaining 4 springs left as-is, and the throttle snaps back just fine. A clean or lite coat of graphit power on the handle bar throttle tube helps.

While the throttle tube was off, I change its cam-profile to reduce the abrupt off-on engine transition in corners. I filed a slot in the nylon cam where the forward cable begins to touch as you roll on the throttle. This reduced how quickly the throttle cable is pulled just above idle. A hack saw blade works great, just be gentle as you file away that soft nylon. I filed down about 1/16" at the deepest with tappering to nothing on both sides of a 1/2" long slot.

 
Awesome post!

Now even someone like me, having zero mechanical inclination can do this without screwing up my ride...

Very much appreciate it, knowing that such a posting takes time and dedication. :clapping:

 
Thank you. I will be doing the throttle spring this weekend, as this answered all my questions about it.
Without those pics I would have NEVER found that damn tab. Plus when I finally edged the spring over, it whipped around and reset so quickly I wasn't sure it had released, except my throttle was noticeably better. It's even a shade better than the SV-650 now. Man, I can imagine Yamaha worrying about a stuck throttle on a big-bore 145hp 1300cc bike, but that's just overkill, folks, especially with a kill switch and a dual cable setup. Oh well, that's why evolution gave me opposable thumbs and the Craftsman tool department!

 
I too did the TSR procedure a few weekends ago on Francisco (2007 A), and the difference is amazing on a long ride. Rickster's pics were a great help of exactly where the spring tab is, and the procedure to get to it. I felt like a surgeon working in the tight confines under the tank with all the wires/tubes/stuff.

When I was ready to reinstall the two top tank bolts, they were slightly below the corresponding holes, so I believe when the front of the tank was raised it must have "settled" some on the rear rubber mounting block.

I was able to get the holes to line up after some work and general mumbling, but it was a curveball I was not anticipating none-the-less.

If you have a 2007, this is a fix you must do!

biknflyfisher

 
Great post! Thanks a lot. Now I just wish somebody would do the same photo proceedure for removing the front tupperware (not just the side panels, ALL of it)

 
I just did this adjustment, thanks for the great sequence, I'd probably never do it without this guide. That is REALLY hard to see.

1 note - i grabbed the throttle spring with a dental pick, and push it just off the tab, then let the spring go. It flipped around and reattached perfectly. Feels great.

 
QUOTE (biknflyfisher @ Aug 19 2008, 04:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

... When I was ready to reinstall the two top tank bolts, they were slightly below the corresponding holes, so I believe when the front of the tank was raised it must have "settled" some on the rear rubber mounting block.

I was able to get the holes to line up after some work and general mumbling, but it was a curveball I was not anticipating none-the-less. ...

biknflyfisher

Did you slacken off the rear tank bolt?

(click on image for larger view)



Front alignment is then not a problem.

 
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Thanks much Rick. A friend who has an '05 and I started to do my '07 when we ran into the heat shield situation. Not knowing exactly how to remove the shield, we had to put it back together for the time being. :angry2: Your photos were a Godsend! You did a greaaaaaaaaaaaaat job on your 1000th post!!! :yahoo:

Gary

 
Nice! How long does the board need to be to balance the tank? Is there still a bit of weight on it or is it just short of tipping back?

 
... When I was ready to reinstall the two top tank bolts, they were slightly below the corresponding holes, so I believe when the front of the tank was raised it must have "settled" some on the rear rubber mounting block.I was able to get the holes to line up after some work and general mumbling, but it was a curveball I was not anticipating none-the-less. ...

biknflyfisher
Did you slacken off the rear tank bolt?

[SIZE=8pt](click on image for larger view)[/SIZE]



Front alignment is then not a problem.
I found that removing the rear bolt completely works far better. If you leave the bolt in, the rear of the tank contacts the front seat support and basically tries to bend it as you lift up the front of the tank. If you pull the bolt out, the tank sits in the U-shaped groves under the tabs and gives plenty of support to the rear of the tank when tilted up. Once the tank is back down, I lift the tank from the rear to perfectly align the front bolts to where they were originally (paint scratches under the bolt heads covered).

SCRider

 
QUOTE (SCRider @ Sep 2 2008, 02:33 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (mcatrophy @ Aug 21 2008, 07:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (biknflyfisher @ Aug 19 2008, 04:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

... When I was ready to reinstall the two top tank bolts, they were slightly below the corresponding holes, so I believe when the front of the tank was raised it must have "settled" some on the rear rubber mounting block.

I was able to get the holes to line up after some work and general mumbling, but it was a curveball I was not anticipating none-the-less. ...

biknflyfisher

Did you slacken off the rear tank bolt?

(click on image for larger view)



Front alignment is then not a problem.

I found that removing the rear bolt completely works far better. If you leave the bolt in, the rear of the tank contacts the front seat support and basically tries to bend it as you lift up the front of the tank. If you pull the bolt out, the tank sits in the U-shaped groves under the tabs and gives plenty of support to the rear of the tank when tilted up. Once the tank is back down, I lift the tank from the rear to perfectly align the front bolts to where they were originally (paint scratches under the bolt heads covered).

SCRider

I guess you are a tallish guy (with seat in upper position)? Me, I'm a short-ars*; I hadn't considered the seat support in its upper position.

 
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... When I was ready to reinstall the two top tank bolts, they were slightly below the corresponding holes, so I believe when the front of the tank was raised it must have "settled" some on the rear rubber mounting block.I was able to get the holes to line up after some work and general mumbling, but it was a curveball I was not anticipating none-the-less. ...

biknflyfisher
Did you slacken off the rear tank bolt?

[SIZE=8pt](click on image for larger view)[/SIZE]



Front alignment is then not a problem.
I found that removing the rear bolt completely works far better. If you leave the bolt in, the rear of the tank contacts the front seat support and basically tries to bend it as you lift up the front of the tank. If you pull the bolt out, the tank sits in the U-shaped groves under the tabs and gives plenty of support to the rear of the tank when tilted up. Once the tank is back down, I lift the tank from the rear to perfectly align the front bolts to where they were originally (paint scratches under the bolt heads covered).

SCRider
I guess you are a tallish guy (with seat in upper position)? Me, I'm a short-ars*; I hadn't considered the seat support in its upper position.
The seat position doesn't matter with what I'm talking about. If you look at the far left side of your picture, you can see how close the plastic cover is to the bottom lip of the tank. The bottom lip of the tank will contact the plastic cover over the top seat support if you don't remove the bolt. If you look closely at your picture, you can see the nicks on the corners of the plastic piece from being hit by the bottom lip of the tank. When the tank hits the seat support (or plastic cover when the seat is set at the low position) it pulls the tank backward on the rubber rear mount and makes it very difficult to get the tank back forward enough to get the front bolts in. The first couple of times under the tank, I had to remove the rear bolt to get the front bolts in. That's when I noticed the interference. This weekend, I was under the tank running some wires and went ahead and pulled the rear bolt out before I lifted the tank. Even with a full tank, I couldn't believe how much easier the tank came up.

 
QUOTE (SCRider @ Sep 3 2008, 12:07 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (mcatrophy @ Sep 2 2008, 03:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (SCRider @ Sep 2 2008, 02:33 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (mcatrophy @ Aug 21 2008, 07:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

QUOTE (biknflyfisher @ Aug 19 2008, 04:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

... When I was ready to reinstall the two top tank bolts, they were slightly below the corresponding holes, so I believe when the front of the tank was raised it must have "settled" some on the rear rubber mounting block.

I was able to get the holes to line up after some work and general mumbling, but it was a curveball I was not anticipating none-the-less. ...

biknflyfisher

Did you slacken off the rear tank bolt?

(click on image for larger view)



Front alignment is then not a problem.

I found that removing the rear bolt completely works far better. If you leave the bolt in, the rear of the tank contacts the front seat support and basically tries to bend it as you lift up the front of the tank. If you pull the bolt out, the tank sits in the U-shaped groves under the tabs and gives plenty of support to the rear of the tank when tilted up. Once the tank is back down, I lift the tank from the rear to perfectly align the front bolts to where they were originally (paint scratches under the bolt heads covered).

SCRider

I guess you are a tallish guy (with seat in upper position)? Me, I'm a short-ars*; I hadn't considered the seat support in its upper position.

The seat position doesn't matter with what I'm talking about. If you look at the far left side of your picture, you can see how close the plastic cover is to the bottom lip of the tank. The bottom lip of the tank will contact the plastic cover over the top seat support if you don't remove the bolt. If you look closely at your picture, you can see the nicks on the corners of the plastic piece from being hit by the bottom lip of the tank. When the tank hits the seat support (or plastic cover when the seat is set at the low position) it pulls the tank backward on the rubber rear mount and makes it very difficult to get the tank back forward enough to get the front bolts in. The first couple of times under the tank, I had to remove the rear bolt to get the front bolts in. That's when I noticed the interference. This weekend, I was under the tank running some wires and went ahead and pulled the rear bolt out before I lifted the tank. Even with a full tank, I couldn't believe how much easier the tank came up.

Ah. I see what you mean. I suspect I've not raised the tank quite as far, when I felt resistance (presumably the rear touching that plastic), I've stopped lifting and put in my wooden support at the front.

(click on image for larger view)



The dowel at the end goes into one of the front tank bolt holes.

I've always found enough room for what I've wanted to do like that (TBS and throttle spring release), and the tank has always aligned nicely at the front when I've put it down.

I suppose if you push it further, things will start to move!

 
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