Photo's of how to get under the Tank

[dshane]

Great post, and instructions.

I do have a question.....what is the reason for the TRS mod? It looks easy enough for even me to do....

Thanks,

Dave

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Just read this, greatly appreciated.

I have a GEN I, but this helps a bunch. As I am about to install a heat shield and possibly attempt the Spring adj.

Knock out job!

 

[roger dodger]

I just did the TRS thanks to this thread (it was easy). I didn't think it went around the first time so I did it (slide off tang) a second time, so now it's really soft on the throttle (still returns nicely). The feel is gentle on the throttle (like a tourer) yet still powerful (like a sport bike) so I'd call it the perfect mix. +1!

 

[JimNtexas]

I'm a new FJR owner and just installed a reset powerlet socket. Your pictures and explanations were invaluable when it came time to raise the tank to run the wire harness.

Thanks very very much! :yahoo:

 

[Burnspot]

Thanks for the photos...helped a bunch!

Got a question...I just did the TRS and the spring successfully re-engaged the tang. Now, the throttle pulls real easy...so easy that it does not return to closed without some help from me. Big deal or no? When I close the throttle, I can see the spring lifting off the tang as the throttle goes full closed. I'm thinking this is not such a big deal so long as I don't have a get off with the throttle opened.

Edit: Guess I don't need to fart around with adjusting my Brakeaway...if it don't hold the throttle now.... lol.

 

[n1acguy]

Thanks for the photos...helped a bunch!
Got a question...I just did the TRS and the spring successfully re-engaged the tang. Now, the throttle pulls real easy...so easy that it does not return to closed without some help from me. Big deal or no? When I close the throttle, I can see the spring lifting off the tang as the throttle goes full closed. I'm thinking this is not such a big deal so long as I don't have a get off with the throttle opened.

Edit: Guess I don't need to fart around with adjusting my Brakeaway...if it don't hold the throttle now.... lol.

It had probably been unwound once already. I wouldn't leave it like that. The throttle needs to return on it's own for obvious safety reasons.

I would get some light gauge safety wire, tie a loop in it, snake it underneath the spring drum, and pull it back around to rewind the spring 1 turn so you have some spring force pulling the throttle back.

 

[Burnspot]

Thanks for the photos...helped a bunch!
Got a question...I just did the TRS and the spring successfully re-engaged the tang. Now, the throttle pulls real easy...so easy that it does not return to closed without some help from me. Big deal or no? When I close the throttle, I can see the spring lifting off the tang as the throttle goes full closed. I'm thinking this is not such a big deal so long as I don't have a get off with the throttle opened.

Edit: Guess I don't need to fart around with adjusting my Brakeaway...if it don't hold the throttle now.... lol.

It had probably been unwound once already. I wouldn't leave it like that. The throttle needs to return on it's own for obvious safety reasons.

I would get some light gauge safety wire, tie a loop in it, snake it underneath the spring drum, and pull it back around to rewind the spring 1 turn so you have some spring force pulling the throttle back.

I worked the throttle several times before buttoning everything back up...the spring seems to stay with the tang now and the throttle does return very softly...it'll probably do better when the engine's warmed up. I'm wondering if it slipped around twice before catching again. I'm not sure that the previous owner ever messed with it...all the maintenance records indicate the previous owner used the dealer for everything..farkles, oil changes, and even tire pressure checks. Plus it was a bona fide wrist killer.

IIRC, some folks removed the spring, so perhaps it'll work. I'll road test tomorrow and see what happens. Re-winding would be a real ***** considering the jungle of wires, tubing, and other structures in the area, lol.

 

[Burnspot]

Took a 5 hour test ride yesterday. Overall, it was okay although I had to slightly alter the way I shift as the throttle does not snap back like it used to...it's very similar to how my FZ6's throttle acts. One positive result is my right wrist felt perfectly fine after 5 hours rather than sore; I should mention I try to practice the Master Yoda position as much as possible.

The throttle probably unwound twice rather than just once...so next time I have the tank up, I'll have to see about fishing some wire in there and rewind it by one. I have serious reservations about being able to accomplish that though, lol.

 

[mferriter]

Thanks for instructions, just did this last night.

Very straightforward, but access is pretty tight. I wound up opening the throttle slightly and taping it in place to have better access to the clip to do the unwind. Worked like a charm.

 

[redcat]

Just adding my thanks. Followed the write up and it was easy. Initila impressiomns are that its definitely improved things as far as general riding is concerned although as others have alluded the throttle doesn't snap back as fast of course so engine braking doesnt cut in quite as rapidly now.

 

[Wizard-Peter]

As a FNG and new to the FJR I was going to go digging for the cause of the hard throttle spring. Thanks to you note to me on my first post I can get it done tomorrow night, fuel weight should be low by then. I have changed the suspension settings but it was a bit late to go for a test. The front end dip on braking should be reduced. The handling of the FJR is lighter than my push-bike think and your there.

Your post is very complete. I did note the "should" unwind one turn. The number of posts atesting to the completness of the instructions is an acolade to you.

Well done, thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

Peter

 

[GillaFunk]

Why just get UNDER the tank.....pull the fooker OFFF.

what....its an extra....2 hoses.....BIG DEAL!!

I had to install my power cmdr, and new plugs....pulling the tank off made the whole ordeal a POC!

 

[08FJR4ME]

Thought I would mention these while all these tank raising's are going on. Great right up by the way. You must write process sheets for a living.

Shamless bump: CLICK HERE

 

[Bungie]

Zombie resurrection, because. Bewbs.

 

[Smooth14u2]

Ok -- I had to try to do something positive as this will be my one thousandth post.

Photo's of how to get under the tank to do the TBS (Throttle Body Sync), and/or Throttle Return Spring, and other things (plugs etc.)

Documented for Gen II (2006 and 2007)

(1) Remove passenger saddle using the key, and drivers saddle. To remove the driver's saddle, there is a lever to the aft of the seat

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0285.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the screw (4mm hex key), and plastic rivet

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0286.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the plastic tank cover by pulling out on the forward edges, then slide back

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0288.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Top view of what you're pulling out of what:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0290.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

This is what's under there -- you have to slide the cover AFT to remove it.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0294.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Picture of both the plastic tank cover and where it mates:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0295.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the 2 bolts holding the tank on. Cover the tank with a rag to keep from chafing or chipping the paint

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0301.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Next, prop the tank up slightly, and disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the bottom of the tank (circled in the photo below)

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0303.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

The release is on the outside of each connector (right side on the green connector, left side on the white connector viewed as you would be sitting on the motorcycle):

Push where highlighted to release the connector locking mechanism:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0304.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Now that the connectors are loose, you can raise the tank higher:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0312.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Tank raised higher (2X4 trimmed to hold up the tank. Also I've used a bungee cord from the holes back to the passenger grab rail -- just use something to hold the tank up and that is stable.)

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0312B.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Viewing under the tank -- next step -- remove the T-Bar

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0314.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Note that the washers are not captive -- make sure you don't loose them:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0315.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Once the T-Bar is removed, remove the heat shield. Note the plastic rivet just to the left of where the harness exits -- remove that, and the heat shield can be removed.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0317.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the aft side by lifting it up to clear:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0318.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Then, fold the forward edge under, and remove by pulling it out forward:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0319.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Removed view:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0320.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Orientation view (heat shield removed):

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0324.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

To do the Throttle Body Sync, you will have to connect the 2 electrical connectors removed to facilitate removal of the heat shield:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0326.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

The following 4 pictures show the location of the cap that must be removed to connect your vacuum gage (carb stick, etc.)

Pictures are the rightmost first as you sit on the motorcycle:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0328.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0330.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0331.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

and lastly the one on the left:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0332.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

----------------------------------------------------------

There are numerous posts on great techniques to do the actual TBS -- so I'll skip repeating the adjustment.

----------------------------------------------------------

If you want to get the Throttle Return Spring released -- continue to read...

The TRS is in this area:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0336.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Top View:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0340.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Close up view -- note that the throttle is completely closed -- it makes it difficult to see in this shot.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0341.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

If you move the throttle with the grip just a little, it is easier to see and get the spring tang from the hook.

You can see the spring tang just below the phililps head screw you see in the photo.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0344.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Get the edge (I used a hemostat), and remove it from the holding point.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0351.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0352.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Put everything back in reverse order,

and torque per your owners manual. 7.2 Ft-LB for the 2 forward tank fasteners that hold the tank to the frame.

Torque T-Bar bolts to 27 Ft-LB.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/Torques.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Excellent post/pics. Thanks!

Ok -- I had to try to do something positive as this will be my one thousandth post.

Photo's of how to get under the tank to do the TBS (Throttle Body Sync), and/or Throttle Return Spring, and other things (plugs etc.)

Documented for Gen II (2006 and 2007)

(1) Remove passenger saddle using the key, and drivers saddle. To remove the driver's saddle, there is a lever to the aft of the seat

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0285.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the screw (4mm hex key), and plastic rivet

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0286.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the plastic tank cover by pulling out on the forward edges, then slide back

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0288.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Top view of what you're pulling out of what:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0290.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

This is what's under there -- you have to slide the cover AFT to remove it.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0294.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Picture of both the plastic tank cover and where it mates:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0295.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the 2 bolts holding the tank on. Cover the tank with a rag to keep from chafing or chipping the paint

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0301.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Next, prop the tank up slightly, and disconnect the 2 electrical connectors on the bottom of the tank (circled in the photo below)

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0303.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

The release is on the outside of each connector (right side on the green connector, left side on the white connector viewed as you would be sitting on the motorcycle):

Push where highlighted to release the connector locking mechanism:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0304.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Now that the connectors are loose, you can raise the tank higher:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0312.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Tank raised higher (2X4 trimmed to hold up the tank. Also I've used a bungee cord from the holes back to the passenger grab rail -- just use something to hold the tank up and that is stable.)

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0312B.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Viewing under the tank -- next step -- remove the T-Bar

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0314.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Note that the washers are not captive -- make sure you don't loose them:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0315.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Once the T-Bar is removed, remove the heat shield. Note the plastic rivet just to the left of where the harness exits -- remove that, and the heat shield can be removed.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0317.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Remove the aft side by lifting it up to clear:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0318.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Then, fold the forward edge under, and remove by pulling it out forward:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0319.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Removed view:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0320.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Orientation view (heat shield removed):

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0324.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

To do the Throttle Body Sync, you will have to connect the 2 electrical connectors removed to facilitate removal of the heat shield:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0326.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

The following 4 pictures show the location of the cap that must be removed to connect your vacuum gage (carb stick, etc.)

Pictures are the rightmost first as you sit on the motorcycle:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0328.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0330.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0331.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

and lastly the one on the left:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0332.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

----------------------------------------------------------

There are numerous posts on great techniques to do the actual TBS -- so I'll skip repeating the adjustment.

----------------------------------------------------------

If you want to get the Throttle Return Spring released -- continue to read...

The TRS is in this area:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0336.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Top View:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0340.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Close up view -- note that the throttle is completely closed -- it makes it difficult to see in this shot.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0341.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

If you move the throttle with the grip just a little, it is easier to see and get the spring tang from the hook.

You can see the spring tang just below the phililps head screw you see in the photo.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0344.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Get the edge (I used a hemostat), and remove it from the holding point.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0351.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from:

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/IMG_0352.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Put everything back in reverse order,

and torque per your owners manual. 7.2 Ft-LB for the 2 forward tank fasteners that hold the tank to the frame.

Torque T-Bar bolts to 27 Ft-LB.

<img src="https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/rhulcher/FJR/UnderTank/Torques.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

Excellent post/pics. Thanks!

 

[Norman Hamer]

Rickster, thanks so much for this writeup.

I just bought a new/used 2007, and after the first 500 miles and my first pass on downhill twisties, I was getting really _alarmed_ at how abrupt the throttle was, and how heavy. The bike came with a G2 throttle tamer and crampbuster, but it still was _ugly_ coming back on the throttle, and my elbow was just screaming (I think because I was constantly relying on the crampbuster). Something had to be done.

I probably would have broken a tab on that tank cover without your writeup - I'm pretty sure the service manual says something about how it comes off, but not all in one place.

Released the spring this afternoon. Didn't have to move the lump or turn the throttle - there's plenty of room to get a 90deg dental pick in there to lift the spring off the hook, and it's in a good position coming from the back end if you entirely remove the tank. I imagine you'd have to get the lump out of the way to rewind it. Took maybe half an hour to an hour, largely because the electrical connectors didn't want to come off, and the fuel line disconnect is a little confusing (there's a black bracket you take off, then the fuel line connection has 2 buttons on either side of the disconnect. Neat, but not something I've seen before).

I'm left with a nice, light throttle - it snaps back well when not running, maybe a little gentle at road speeds but certainly not more than a second. I tried to release it, then feel it, and it was always back at the stop, just not really decelerating that fast.

This makes the bike _eminently_ more comfortable to ride. I'd _noticed_ the heavy throttle in short order after buying it (about half an hour) making my hand hurt, but I was compensating on the crampbuster, not getting better on the grip.

It also makes it _much_ easier to feather in the throttle - it's still a little abrupt, but in a "I need to work on my throttle technique, I just yanked it" way, not a "There is no way I can avoid this bump even when paying close attention" way. Took it around to some of my local downhill twisties, and only unsettled it once.

I can still feel the driveline lash (which is actually pretty minimal, but it _felt_ like it was huge before due to the throttle transition), and the abrupt FI (still abrupt, just controllable).

So, to those who read this thread in the future - highly recommend the mod on an '07, easy to do, big return. It's so much better (with the G2 tube, which I didn't change), that if you do it and you don't get a positive snap-back... I'd look at pulling the throttle bodies and updating the cam/spring rather than rewinding it (and, of course, looking for friction/cable/etc issues to eliminate first). It's that much of a difference in drivability.

 

[simfht]

Rickster, thanks so much for this writeup.

I just bought a new/used 2007,

me too (07 ABS CA model with 5500 smiles). coming from a 99 VFR which is butter smooth the FJR FI & tranny are very abrupt & notchy. i have the service manual and the fuel tank instructions are nearly useless. this thread and site are very helpful. ordered a G2 throttle tamer, FJR4ME's PAIR plates and will do the TRS + 2 Bros Juice Box + canisterectomy all under 1 tank lift.

now all i need is a slipper clutch! i've noticed just a tad more engine braking than on the VFR!

thanks to Rickster and all the other riders who've contributed!

 

[hppants]

As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from

I'm considering this mod, and for those that have done it:

1. After I pull the spring off the tang, do I let it go and the spring will unwind 1 revolution? Or does it unwind some other way?

2. If I don't like the mod, how hard is it to wind the spring a turn and put it back the way it was?

 

[mcatrophy]

As you slide it off the hook, it should unwind 1 revolution, and catch on the same hook that you removed it from

I'm considering this mod, and for those that have done it:

1. After I pull the spring off the tang, do I let it go and the spring will unwind 1 revolution? Or does it unwind some other way?

2. If I don't like the mod, how hard is it to wind the spring a turn and put it back the way it was?

1. Yes. I pushed mine off the tag with the tip of a screwdriver, it did the rest all by itself.

2. Not easy. Not done it myself, but I understand it requires feeding strong twine or fishing line round, hooking the spring, and hauling it back round.

In my opinion, well worth the risk, I've done it on both my FJRs and am pleased with the result.

 

[hammercom]

I am finally going to do the return throttle spring release this weekend on my 2008. The old sore wrist has convinced me to release a little tension off the throttle. My only concern is that the spring will ONLY unwind one revolution and not slip past the tang creating more problems? Anyone out there care to comment and give me some reassurance?