canyonman
Well-known member
ok considering what you have been through you think the POR-15 treatment to a non-rusted tank would be something to consider?
Plugged fuel filter?
- Thread starter RadioHowie
- Start date
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dcarver
Well-known member
Search posts by a feller named Radman.. He used some outfit or the other to balance his injectors. Can't have unbalanced injection, ya know?
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Oh, not to worry. Ordered the motorcycle tank kit today. I'll pull the tank and do the POR-15 treatment as soon as it gets here.
Fortunately, I'll have a clean tank to work with.
I'll go with the complete 3-step process, even though the tank is now rust free. No sense in spending the money and taking shortcuts.
canyonman
Well-known member
sorry I was actually thinking of my own tank while considering what you have had to go through
Joe2Lmaker
Well-known member
I'm still curious about what caused all that rust.
Is the tank used as a ground for any electrical components?
Is the tank used as a ground for any electrical components?
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Unpainted, untreated mild steel exposed to humid air for several months...Et voila! RUST!
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
The other thing is that it was an awful lot of rust. Was the tank so bad inside that you think it all came from there, or could it have come from the fuel you put in it?
Bungie
FrostBack #2 - IBA # 44620
I'm inclined to agree with this. If the bike was sitting for a year or two, I'd say that much rust would be possible, but not after a few months.
A little story:
About 20 years ago in early winter, I stopped at a Petro Canada station to fill up my truck. It was pouring rain with the temps at about 35F degrees. On the way home, about a mile away from the station, the truck started missing badly, then finally stalled (in rush hour traffic!). Push it off the side of the road and deal with it. Called a buddy and towed it home after the traffic cleared. Dicked around with it for a day and came to the conclusion, water in the gas. It was f'n freezing out! Like -15F. So buddy towed it over to his garage.
I kept hearing this clunking coming from the back while we were towing it. I thought, somehow, it happened to bust an exhaust hanger.
Turns out, after dropping the fuel tank, what I heard was a block of ice, I'm guessing as big as a 2-4 (thats 24 beer in Canucks speak).
Worse, the the tanks was full of the nastiest pile of crap imaginable. Call the gas station and ask WTF!
Turns out another gas station was being dug up to have the tanks replaced so they had to get the existing tanks pumped out. Guess what they did with the pumped out 'slurry'. Right, they put it INTO my stations tanks!
My point? That much rust in your tanks, after a short time of sitting, wasn't from condensation/ambient conditions.
radman
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
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odot
CC member # 17,----- DUP member # 7, mensa club m
Let the "factory pro" company you ingested a whole bunch of sugar into the tank....they'll understand.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Just finished an "injector" test.
Pulled the fuel rail and injectors out of the throttle bodies, attempted to clean the intake side of the injectors with a spray cleaner (how in hell do you get the screen out?), put them back on the fuel rail and hooked it up to the tank.
Using the Diag mode, ran through the injector tests with very poor results. #1 is dribbling (think Odot), #2 isn't passing any noticeable fuel at all, #3 has a strong spray and #4 is similar to #1, so off came the injectors, packed and boxed up to be sent out Monday morning for a cleaning and flow matching.
The Saga Continues.
Pulled the fuel rail and injectors out of the throttle bodies, attempted to clean the intake side of the injectors with a spray cleaner (how in hell do you get the screen out?), put them back on the fuel rail and hooked it up to the tank.
Using the Diag mode, ran through the injector tests with very poor results. #1 is dribbling (think Odot), #2 isn't passing any noticeable fuel at all, #3 has a strong spray and #4 is similar to #1, so off came the injectors, packed and boxed up to be sent out Monday morning for a cleaning and flow matching.
The Saga Continues.
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08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Just checked my tank and everything looks O.K. :blink:Just finished an "injector" test.
Pulled the fuel rail and injectors out of the throttle bodies, attempted to clean the intake side of the injectors with a spray cleaner (how in hell do you get the screen out?), put them back on the fuel rail and hooked it up to the tank.
Using the Diag mode, ran through the injector tests with very poor results. #1 is dribbling (think Odot), #2 isn't passing any noticeable fuel at all, #3 has a strong spray and #4 is similar to #1, so off came the injectors, packed and boxed up to be sent out Monday morning for a cleaning and flow matching.
The Saga Continues.
This thread is getting to me. Gonna have to look down the tank after every fillup. Can't imagine how much this would cost iffen you wern't doin the work yourself.
+1 Howie you da man.
Patriot
Isabella is Lazarus
wow, that is a saga
my Goldwing riding podna pulls into a Racetrac and pulls immediately out and headed for the next door Shell. He's a cheapskate (sorry Nick) and never did that before.
after we fuel, I ask him standing in line for the head what was up with that. "Mike, you didn't see that tanker truck filling the station's tanks. I won't fuel while their pouring gas into the ground stirring up all the sediment crap. If I see a truck pulling in, already there, or pulling out, I go elsewhere." Good advice IMHO.
my Goldwing riding podna pulls into a Racetrac and pulls immediately out and headed for the next door Shell. He's a cheapskate (sorry Nick) and never did that before.
after we fuel, I ask him standing in line for the head what was up with that. "Mike, you didn't see that tanker truck filling the station's tanks. I won't fuel while their pouring gas into the ground stirring up all the sediment crap. If I see a truck pulling in, already there, or pulling out, I go elsewhere." Good advice IMHO.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Well, lessee...not counting shop rates at $94 dollars an hour at my local dealer:
$ 453.00 - fuel pump
$ 600.00 - fuel injectors (4 X $150.00 ea.)
_______
$1053.00
What I've spent so far:
$ 23.00 - 1 gallon of industrial rust remover
$ 40.00 - 3 part POR-15 gas tank restoration kit
$ 72.00 - injector cleaning and flow matching
$ 10.00 - tank cleaning friction media (refundable, since it was $10 worth of pennies. Doesn't everyone have a "change" jar on the dresser?
)______
$135.00 - Hope it ends here.
I really can't calculate the labor savings since I've put some serious time the last 2 weeks into this, but only in 2-3 hour "bursts". You know how it is when "real life" interferes. And not having a shop's resources for tools and equipment slows you down, too, but I'd guess the shop time could easily approach the 8 to 10 hour mark easily. That's a seriously wild ass guess, though.
Funny thing is, when all this started, and I began some serious researching into actually working on the problem by myself, of course with all youse guys help, I was VERY daunted at jumping in to the job. It's been years since I've had to do any serious wrenching on any of my vehicles, other than things like brake work and wheel removals, and was real unsure of myself. Fortunately, my years owning a couple of Fiats and MGs back in the late 60s and early 70s gave me a wealth of hands-on wrenching experience that started coming back to me as the project progressed.
Lesson learned? Don't let your steel-tanked motorcycle sit with a mostly empty tank for months on end. Drain that thing and seriously fog the interior with oil. Also, don't be afraid to tackle a project like this when you have a wealth of experience and advice that a forum like this provides.
When this is all over (if ever) I'm gonna run my ZRex dry and do the POR-15 process to its tank too.
Edit to add: Oh, another thing all this "hands on" shit has done is given me the confidence and motivation to install the Audiovox CC Skyway bought for me way back in Dec '05. That bitch has been sitting on a shelf waiting for me to get off my lazy, cowardly ass for over 3 years! Skyway picked it up for me at one of the autoparts stores near him when they were closing them out for about $35. I couldn't pass up the price. But even with the million or so AVCC threads explaining every step of the process, I've been scared spitless to attempt it myself. Yeah, I'm a puss. But those days are fast coming to an end.
I guess there's one positive coming out of this shitty economy, at least for me....Do It Yourself! ('cause I can't afford to have someone else do it for me!)
Oh ****...did I just turn this thread political???? :rofl:
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rushes
Well-known member
Mizz Bustanut
Well-known member
Aah, Nooo. But you forgot to add: "Having to put up with Bust . . . . . . . . . priceless." :banghead:
:wubsmiley:
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
What's not to understand? Most motorcycle tanks are mild steel stampings. The interiors of said tanks are constantly "washed" with a solvent (gas), removing any oily protection that might have been added during assembly. Unless you, as the owner, have taken steps to protect the interior surface, they're aint any protection. And the protection can be as simple as not letting the thing sit dry for months at a time.
ALL gasoline you buy these days, at least everywhere I've been lately, is E10, i.e., 10% ethanol, 90% gasoline.
Ethanol, being alcohol, is a serious moisture absorber. It'll suck water right out of the air, into your gas. "Wet" gas, H[SIZE=8pt]2[/SIZE]0-wise, will create a high humidity environment inside the gas tank. Mix that with mild steel, disuse and time and you get rust.
I'm sure the high humidity in Florida doesn't help the situation, but unless you live in the Desert Southwest, a mild steel vessel containing moisture-absorbing liquids that sits for several months is gonna rust.
Hell, I can leave either of my bikes sitting for just a day or two and the brake rotors rust up! Not a severe, flaking kind of rust. Just the kind that leaves a dusty layer that wipes off with a finger, and disappears the first time you hit the brakes.
My tank was the same way...not metal falling off in giant chunks, but a very fine layer of surface rust that came off as a powder when I filled the tank the first time in about 3 months. The pictures I posted of the fuel pump may have been misleading folks into thinking I had slabs of tank interior floating around. It looked like big chunks, because it was wet with gas. After it all dried out, it's as fine as talcum powder. Probably no more than a few molecule of depth rusted away, but when ALL those dust/rust particles get sucked up through the strainer, the eventual build-up plugged the strainer solid (and apparently the fuel injectors as well).
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Not Hardly.......Well, lessee...not counting shop rates at $94 dollars an hour at my local dealer:
$ 453.00 - fuel pump
$ 600.00 - fuel injectors (4 X $150.00 ea.)
_______
$1053.00
What I've spent so far:
$ 23.00 - 1 gallon of industrial rust remover
$ 40.00 - 3 part POR-15 gas tank restoration kit
$ 72.00 - injector cleaning and flow matching
$ 10.00 - tank cleaning friction media (refundable, since it was $10 worth of pennies. Doesn't everyone have a "change" jar on the dresser?
______
$135.00 - Hope it ends here.
Sex with a pro.. $500.00 a pop
Sex with Carnival gurls.. $5.00 plus the aforementioned repair costs.
Oh yeah, ya saved a ton 'o' cash fer yer two minutes of fun... Dork.
:jester:
C&C
Well-known member
Earlier post mentioned ethanol (10% usually); this in fact could have been a contributing factor (and more probable, than just could be, in this case). Stabil makes a product (it's listed for marine use but can be used with any combustion engine).
If you live in a high temperature variance or high humidity area, maybe you should use such a product (exaserberating the problem would be if your bike lives outside, as opposed to a garage). Sta-Bil Ethanol Treatment (or StarTron is another product) both supposedly address ethanol based fuels and their affinity to attract moisture from the air.
In any event, keeping your fuel tank, near full, can also help in reducing moisture in the tank and subsequent rusting potential. I've used StarTron and StaBil, but it is hard to prove that something didn't happen because of its use, (but I do live in South Carolina, near the coast; another high humidity environment), so maybe it does work.
If you live in a high temperature variance or high humidity area, maybe you should use such a product (exaserberating the problem would be if your bike lives outside, as opposed to a garage). Sta-Bil Ethanol Treatment (or StarTron is another product) both supposedly address ethanol based fuels and their affinity to attract moisture from the air.
In any event, keeping your fuel tank, near full, can also help in reducing moisture in the tank and subsequent rusting potential. I've used StarTron and StaBil, but it is hard to prove that something didn't happen because of its use, (but I do live in South Carolina, near the coast; another high humidity environment), so maybe it does work.
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