Plugged fuel filter?

[odot]

I was gonna say ECU earlier but now that bust has said it....nope...not the prob. Will never agree with that POS ever.

 

[Bustanut joker]

I was gonna say ECU earlier but now that bust has said it....nope...not the prob. Will never agree with that POS ever.

Ya might be onta somethin there.

I need to quit postin when I'm sober :dribble:

Go to bed *******..

:jester:

 

[DonRed7]

Do you know anyone with or can get you mitts on a infra temp checker, great for singling out cooler header pipes. The motor would have to be warm enough so as to not be in air inj mode or just plug em' off.

-Don

 

[C&C]

The plug color you describe seems way too dark (meaning something may be causing the ECU to go full rich or into the cool start mode). Maybe a bad coolant temperature sensor or bad ECU. Just thinking out loud. Hoping it's the TPS (and will get fixed when you take it in); that could make sense as well, as the TPS heats up, it expands to the point you no longer get the proper resistance reading going to the ECU, and again too rich to run.

 

[RadioHowie]

Will never agree with that POS ever.

Go to bed *******..

Okay Paris and Nicole...don't you two think it's time to kiss and make up?

 

[odot]

And....my collection.

 

[RadioHowie]

I'm.....at....a....loss....for.....words....

Oh wait, I found one.....

GHEY!

Here's another for your collection --

:****:

But I can't tell which one's you and which one's Skoot.

Bounce is obvious. He's the slimy, mass you and Skoot are dancin' on. :rofl:

 

[S76]

Sorry to hear of your problems. I know this must be very frustrating.

I just reread the entire thread and came up with this:

First you said the bike had an issue above 2500 RPM's.

You had a problem starting. (Low voltage for whatever reason)

You put in a different battery and it starts good but still has a problem when the fan comes on.

Again this sounds like low voltage but not as bad as it was orignally when it would quit at 3 bars.

My guess is you have low voltage at times.

You had a low voltage problem that was made better by a new battery but still exists. When the fans come on it is enough of a draw to reduce the voltage low enough to kill the engine.

Looking a the wiring diagram, of which I am no pro, power comes from the battery, to the fan relay and to the ignition switch. If a high resistance were on the positive side it would have to be at the battery connection, (unlikely as you just changed the battery) or the contacts in the ignition switch.

If the high resistance were on the negative side it could only be at the battery, (unlikely as you just changed it) or the negative wire grounding point.

I would look for the battery ground wire where it attaches to the airframe and look for corrosion there. Also, I would take a voltage reading of the battery at rest, and again at 3K RPM's to ensure there is a reasonable delta there. I would again take a reading with the engine running from the battery positive to the frame or engine to make sure you do not have a voltage drop due to a bad ground.

If you want to look at the battery grounding cable it attaches to the engine on the right side front of the engine. It is attached to a crankcase parting seam bolt.

This is a WAG. But if the fan comes on and the engine quits I would be looking at voltage and not fuel.

Then again I may be all wet.

Wish you the best with this.

 

[dcarver]

Sorry to hear of your problems. I know this must be very frustrating.
I just reread the entire thread and came up with this:

First you said the bike had an issue above 2500 RPM's.

You had a problem starting. (Low voltage for whatever reason)

You put in a different battery and it starts good but still has a problem when the fan comes on.

Again this sounds like low voltage but not as bad as it was orignally when it would quit at 3 bars.

My guess is you have low voltage at times.

You had a low voltage problem that was made better by a new battery but still exists. When the fans come on it is enough of a draw to reduce the voltage low enough to kill the engine.

Looking a the wiring diagram, of which I am no pro, power comes from the battery, to the fan relay and to the ignition switch. If a high resistance were on the positive side it would have to be at the battery connection, (unlikely as you just changed the battery) or the contacts in the ignition switch.

If the high resistance were on the negative side it could only be at the battery, (unlikely as you just changed it) or the negative wire grounding point.

I would look for the battery ground wire where it attaches to the airframe and look for corrosion there. Also, I would take a voltage reading of the battery at rest, and again at 3K RPM's to ensure there is a reasonable delta there. I would again take a reading with the engine running from the battery positive to the frame or engine to make sure you do not have a voltage drop due to a bad ground.

If you want to look at the battery grounding cable it attaches to the engine on the right side front of the engine. It is attached to a crankcase parting seam bolt.

This is a WAG. But if the fan comes on and the engine quits I would be looking at voltage and not fuel.

Then again I may be all wet.

Wish you the best with this.

Damn it, a reasonable response to a Radio Howie problem? LOL. Great ideas - you must be and A&P certified Feejer Pilot...

 

[C&C]

I'm not pooh, poohing the answer above but the fans usually don't come on until four bars. Still checking all connection/grounds is a sound idea.

 

[S76]

I'm not pooh, poohing the answer above but the fans usually don't come on until four bars. Still checking all connection/grounds is a sound idea.

Exactly. RH said in one post with the old battery the engine fell apart at 3 bars. In another post after the new battery it fell apart when the fans came on. Seems 2 different sets of circumstances.

 

[RadioHowie]

I'm not pooh, poohing the answer above but the fans usually don't come on until four bars. Still checking all connection/grounds is a sound idea.

Exactly. RH said in one post with the old battery the engine fell apart at 3 bars. In another post after the new battery it fell apart when the fans came on. Seems 2 different sets of circumstances.

Nah, it's the same circumstance, but different severity of the same symptoms.

See HERE and compare to HERE

The "super-surge" begins at 3 bars, with a top-end of 2500 rpm. When the gauge hits 4 bars and the fan kicks in, forget it. It's shutting down and don't run at all.

 

[odot]

Hm...time for a harley, howie.

 

[radman]

Actually, S76 may have further condemned the fuel pump. After more thinking on this, the temp is simply a sidebar, until the fans kick on. The bike runs for a while, the pump heats up, at about the same time the temp gets in running range, the pump has heated up enough to begin to slow. The fan kicks on, big amp draw, pulling juice from the system and denying the fuel pump the only thing that was keeping it alive at all-full access to system volts/amps. Once there's competition, it sez **** it, line pressure drops, flow diminishes, pump unable to keep engine alive at speed. Time, not temp. Slow down, it can supply enough to keep things moving. Once it starts slowing though, I would imagine occasionally once in a while it won't even flow at low speed-a cool down restores it to partial life. It would, if this is the case, eventually fail even without the fans, once high demand had been placed on it for x amount of time. These are classic pump failure symptoms.

 

[canyonman]

like rad said earlier a fuel pressure gauge would take fuel out of the equation real quick like.

don't over look the simple **** either. had a loose ground on my softail (also computer controlled and injected) that baffled the "factory experts" had to find it and fix it myself caused all kinds of goofey stuff.

verify connections with a meter not just visually. had a main hot wire break inside the insulation on a buddies sportster in the middle of no where montana also was an easy one to over look.

its gonna feel damn good when you do find it.

 

[RadioHowie]

Actually, S76 may have further condemned the fuel pump. After more thinking on this, the temp is simply a sidebar, until the fans kick on. The bike runs for a while, the pump heats up, at about the same time the temp gets in running range, the pump has heated up enough to begin to slow. The fan kicks on, big amp draw, pulling juice from the system and denying the fuel pump the only thing that was keeping it alive at all-full access to system volts/amps. Once there's competition, it sez **** it, line pressure drops, flow diminishes, pump unable to keep engine alive at speed. Time, not temp. Slow down, it can supply enough to keep things moving. Once it starts slowing though, I would imagine occasionally once in a while it won't even flow at low speed-a cool down restores it to partial life. It would, if this is the case, eventually fail even without the fans, once high demand had been placed on it for x amount of time. These are classic pump failure symptoms.

Yeah...that's where my thinking is heading, too. Couldn't be a $10 connector...NOOO, it has to be a $450 fuel pump!

Anyone wanna swap tanks for 30 minutes and see if my problem goes away???

Probably not gonna happen, but it WOULD be a definitive test.

Any visual indications of a failing pump should one have the guts to yank it out and take a look???

 

[Geezer]

Any visual indications of a failing pump should one have the guts to yank it out and take a look???

Make sure the electrical connections to the pump are clean and the sock is not severely clogged. Other than that, as said before, you'll need to test the fuel pressure.

Your idea of swapping in a known good one is actually pretty good and not likely to harm the loaner of anybody nearby is willing to lend you their tank (with pump) for an hour.

 

[RadioHowie]

Any visual indications of a failing pump should one have the guts to yank it out and take a look???

Make sure the electrical connections to the pump are clean and the sock is not severely clogged. Other than that, as said before, you'll need to test the fuel pressure.

Your idea of swapping in a known good one is actually pretty good and not likely to harm the loaner of anybody nearby is willing to lend you their tank (with pump) for an hour.

You're about 1,250 miles away....I'm leavin' now. Should be there in about 20 hours...or 20 days, depending on how the Feejer runs.

 

[BwanaDik]

Any visual indications of a failing pump should one have the guts to yank it out and take a look???

Make sure the electrical connections to the pump are clean and the sock is not severely clogged. Other than that, as said before, you'll need to test the fuel pressure.

Your idea of swapping in a known good one is actually pretty good and not likely to harm the loaner of anybody nearby is willing to lend you their tank (with pump) for an hour.

You're about 1,250 miles away....I'm leavin' now. Should be there in about 20 hours...or 20 days, depending on how the Feejer runs.

I'm only half as far, you're welcome to stop by here to try my tank! I'm on the edge of my seat with this thread. Got to know now!

 

[Geezer]

You're about 1,250 miles away....I'm leavin' now. Should be there in about 20 hours...or 20 days, depending on how the Feejer runs.

If you can get it here you're welcome to use mine. It's just collecting dust in the garage waiting for the ice in the driveway to melt. You'll have to park on the shoulder and walk up my driveway. B)