Powerband very different after minor mechanical work

[dannymax]

Got it back together and fired it up...it started quickly and jumped to 2K, fast idle, and ran nice and smooth. Then I saw the steam rising from underneath....both coolant delivery pipes are leaking around the o-rings where they go in the head.

The o-rings were good, pipes went in smoothly....Oh well, musta screwed them up, I'll deal with it tomorrow.

Every time on mine and others when I tried to reuse o-rings they leak. I keep a bunch on hand now. Glad you got it sorted out.

It was a mistake, that's for sure, you can bet I won't do that again. Trying to cut corners so I can see how it goes after the 'fix'.

Sure hope my local A/P can match those o-rings close enough, no Yammie dealers anywhere around me.

 

[BkrK12]

You can get suitable replacements in the plumbing section of almost any hardware store, including Home Depot and Lowes. Just bring one of them along with you for comparison.

 

[carlson_mn]

Sorry to hear about that but it's luckily something you'll get fixed shortly and you'll forget about it once you're back on the bike. Luckily I had no leaks and I reused the one large o-ring. I did put some moly lithium grease on it for a good seal/seating.

 

[dannymax]

Thanks BkrK12, that's what I was hoping to hear.

carlson_mn, yeah, it's a little inconvenient, but at least the valve cover doesn't have to come off again....didn't much care for that.

I lubed the o-rings with the green lithium lube and they popped in nicely, that's why it surprised me when they leaked.

I would use this as a good excuse to take my V Max for a cruise into town for the o-rings....'cepting it's only in the hi 30°'s here!

 

[dannymax]

OK, I have to preface this post by saying that it has been suggested (mainly by my mother if I remember correctly) sometimes I'm a little too stubborn...perhaps, I'm a Mic, can't help it!!

Anyhow, after pulling the water manifold out and closely examining the o-rings, I could not see any reason why they leaked. So after a good cleaning of all related surfaces I re-lubed them and stuck them back in....and guess what....they are fine! :yahoo:

No drips of any kind and the RPM's gained 150 - 200 R's, I take that as a good sign!

Now a little finish torqueing and, with plastic hanging off or missing completely, we shall see how she performs!!

 

[RadioHowie]

DannyMax,

I must be getting old...(ha!)...but I looked back through the thread and couldn't find where you or the dealer positively found what the problem is. What was the solution?

 

[FJReady]

We're all waiting for the full road test report. What's taking so long?

 

[Aasland]

Re: The O-Rings .. I'm thinking a little bit of plumber's grease on them will help them slide right into place and reduce the chance that they will tear or fold or sit funny once the bolts get torqued down.

 

[carlson_mn]

DannyMax,

I must be getting old...(ha!)...but I looked back through the thread and couldn't find where you or the dealer positively found what the problem is. What was the solution?

His timing was off, victim of the ole' crank sprocket slip.

 

[RadioHowie]

DannyMax,

I must be getting old...(ha!)...but I looked back through the thread and couldn't find where you or the dealer positively found what the problem is. What was the solution?

His timing was off, victim of the ole' crank sprocket slip.

I think the majority of us thought that, but what post number confirmed it? Damned if I could find the positive diagnosis.

 

[carlson_mn]

#37 and #41

 

[TomInPA]

this picture was worth a 1000 words:

 

[dannymax]

Sorry guys, my head has been chucked full of valves and sprockets and lobes and links....and I probably danced around the issue....unintentionally, I assure you.

Anyhoo....when they changed the CCT they never took off the timing cover to insure the cam chain didn't sag and when pressure was re-applied the crank sprocket was one toorh off.

I just took it out for a test drive and WOWEE!!! :yahoo: This baby goes! The results I was hoping for.

My idle is about 1200 - 1250, I probably should dial it back to 1100....ey?

Gotta confess, I felt like an idiot, half the front end wasn't even on the bike, no lowers and no passenger seat. I'm sure I cut a fine figure.

So that's the story! Thanks everybody for all the help, I am now in a position to help the next FNG so you guys can take a well deserved break!

Now to call 'the wrench' and discuss the issue with him.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Alls well that ends well...

...but you should get something settled with your mechanic. His quality control sux.

I'd either run away from him next time, or get some sort of credit for parts and/or labor from this past experience.

Obviously, you have benefitted from the experienced guys online here at the Forum. Another satisfied customer...

 

[RadioHowie]

this picture was worth a 1000 words:

Ahhh....I missed that one!

Even then, I had to blow it up to get a better idea of what the picture was trying to convey. The "Blue Tape" didn't do much for my old eyes.

The upper yellow line indicates where the timing mark is pointing.

The lower yellow line indicates where it SHOULD be pointing.

Yep...skipped a tooth. Dannymax is extraordinarily lucky it only skipped ONE tooth! WHEW!!

That would have been an expensive mistake.

 

[BkrK12]

Anyhoo....when they changed the CCT they never took off the timing cover to insure the cam chain didn't sag and when pressure was re-applied the crank sprocket was one toorh off.

I thought the tech said he had ziptied the cam chain to keep it from sagging. How'd he do that without removing the timing cover?

EDIT: Sorry, just went back and read the entire thread. Don't see anyplace where the tech claimed he had ziptied the cam chain.

 

[wheatonFJR]

^^^^^^^^^^^very good question...hmmmm. Maybe mechanic not telling the whole truth and nothing but the truth???

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

#1, #2, #3:

I took the FJR to the shop last week to have: valve check and adjust (if needed), upgraded CCT installed, TB sync, new plugs, compression check and air cleaner checked and replaced if necessary.The shop owner ...said it runs great but doesn't quite have the roll-on power of a V Max....I found that a little puzzling.

...it pulls good ...but ...power falls off noticeably.

If I whack it WOT at 60 it will slowly accelerate but not remotely like it did before taking it to the shop.

Does anyone have any ideas what may have caused this or what I can do to get my power back?

I would suspect when the CCT was installed the cam timing moved. If the tech doesn't secure the chain before releasing tension it can change pretty easy.

I talked to him on the phone Friday and he mentioned said they took measures to insure that didn't happen (I don't remember exactly what he said though).

 

[dannymax]

Yeah, crappy camera....crappy pics....sorry.

Had a long talk with the shop owner/machinist after my ride this afternoon, I'll bring the bike back early next week to let him drive it, then we'll put in on the dyno for a run. THEN we will discuss a refund.

He understands what happened and why and is very apologetic.

I can't help but wonder if any other FJR could turn 120.2 hp being a tooth off at the crank?? Can anyone top that?

Guess that settles it then, the '05 FJR is not only the most attractive but also the fastest of all the FJR1300's!

We have documented proof!! :yahoo:

 

[olsonm3915]

It sounds like you're agreeing that the amount of your refund should somehow depend on the results of the dyno runs.

I can't understand this. If he believes you when you say you found the cam timing was off a tooth, he owes you a refund for the valve clearance check/adjust job, since you had to repeat all that work yourself, due to his screwup. If he doesn't believe you, well, I know how I would take that. If it was my bike, the refund amount would have nothing whatsoever to do with any dyno results.

All that aside, I do find it surprising that your bike made 120 hp with the timing so far off. I'm betting if you do another run the difference will be noticeable.