Question for AE owners

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thewoodman

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I did a google search using several descriptions and could not find this anywhere. It may be because I don't know exactly how to desribe it.

The question is, when accelerating from a stop does your AE slip the clutch smoothly or more like a pulse engagement? Mine will engage and disengage 3-4 times until full clutch lock-up. It is a progressive action and not abrupt actions. It would be similiar to pulling and releasing a clutch several times rather than a single smooth release of the clutch. It wouldn't be so bad but it's enough to make the front bounce up and down. I imagine it looks like I don't know how to use a clutch to the people around me. It also does not mater if I accelerate hard or soft.

It may be a moot point after I do the 600 mile oil change tonight. I'm thinking this may help as it seams to have gotten progressivly worse.

I will be at CFO this weekend and I'm hoping there will be an AE rider or two I may be able to get some pointers from.

Thanks,

Greg

 
My 07 AE will do this when the oil is cold. But goes completely away when temp comes up. It fills lilke a warped pressure plate to me.

 
I have never tried to drive my AE before it completely warmed up. Every start I have made on it has been smooth and easy. The only abruptness I find is when I am transitioning from deceleration to acceleration at low speeds in 1st or 2nd gear. I know the solution to it but I havent bought the part yet.

Other posts have mentioned clutch oddities like this and have suggested soaking the clutch plates in oil. I dont know if that will help in this situation. Can someone else offer an opinion on this?

 
I have a little over 38,000 on my '07, and it doesn't do what you describe warm or cold.

If I ease on the throttle from a stop, until the clutch is done engaging, and then hammer it, it doesn't slip at all, takes right off like a normal bike. If I do a drag race type start, and hammer it from a stand still, it may take a little longer for it to fully engage, but there is no intermitant engaging whatsoever....

 
My 06' does the jurky rolling start only when cold. ( 0 to1 bar on the gauge). Once the gauge reaches the 2nd bar, it's smooth as butter.

 
I'd have to support what DC said. I normally shift between 2,500- 2,800 with no throttle rollback and it feels like a CVT. Couldn't be smoother. For a more agressive start I use a little more throttle and up the shifts to 3,200 - 3,500. This will get me well clear of traffic and is still silky. There is never multiple clutch slipages. I get to your dealer ASAP. Should be easy to identify and cure. I'm assuming you are not shifting so low as to drop back below 1,600 will a stiff throttle on . . . That might produce wierd anomalies as the computer is getting conflicting inputs to deal with.

 
My 07 AE will do this when the oil is cold. But goes completely away when temp comes up. It fills lilke a warped pressure plate to me.

My 06' does the jurky rolling start only when cold. ( 0 to1 bar on the gauge). Once the gauge reaches the 2nd bar, it's smooth as butter.
You may be onto something here. The morning temps have dropped about 10 degrees over the last two weeks. This may be why I perceive it as getting progressively worse. It does idle for 3-4 minutes while a gear up but maybe this is not enough time. I don't seam to notice it as much when leaving work and it is 80 degrees.

I have never tried to drive my AE before it completely warmed up. Every start I have made on it has been smooth and easy. The only abruptness I find is when I am transitioning from deceleration to acceleration at low speeds in 1st or 2nd gear. I know the solution to it but I havent bought the part yet.
Other posts have mentioned clutch oddities like this and have suggested soaking the clutch plates in oil. I dont know if that will help in this situation. Can someone else offer an opinion on this?
I know exactly what you mean about the low speed 1st and 2nd transition to acceleration. Is the part you speak of the G2 throttle tube? It was my understanding the 08 had a redesigned throttle pulley thus eliminating the need for the G2? I have read a lot of threads over the last couple years so I could be wrong. I have a bit of information overload at the moment.

I have a little over 38,000 on my '07, and it doesn't do what you describe warm or cold. If I ease on the throttle from a stop, until the clutch is done engaging, and then hammer it, it doesn't slip at all, takes right off like a normal bike. If I do a drag race type start, and hammer it from a stand still, it may take a little longer for it to fully engage, but there is no intermitant engaging whatsoever....
Hopefully I can get mine that smooth.

I'd have to support what DC said. I normally shift between 2,500- 2,800 with no throttle rollback and it feels like a CVT. Couldn't be smoother. For a more agressive start I use a little more throttle and up the shifts to 3,200 - 3,500. This will get me well clear of traffic and is still silky. There is never multiple clutch slipages. I get to your dealer ASAP. Should be easy to identify and cure. I'm assuming you are not shifting so low as to drop back below 1,600 will a stiff throttle on . . . That might produce wierd anomalies as the computer is getting conflicting inputs to deal with.
As for shifting after under way, I normally am shifting between 2500 and 3500 without rolling off the throttle. It is smooth with the exception of a very slight hesitation as the clutch operates. The owners manual IIRC said to roll the throttle closed to shift. Personally I think this could be very dangerous, particularly in first geear. Good way to get you azz rear ended.

The only issue is starting from a stop.

I will be changing the oil and final drive oil tonight so will see if that makes any difference. If it does not get better after this and the 500 or so miles I will put on this weekend I will have the dealer look at it. I am taking it in for the rest of the 600 mile service next weekend so they can look at this at the same time.

Thanks for your replies. I will let you know if it gets better after the oil change and if letting it warm up a bit more helps.

Thanks,

Greg

 
The only model I have ridden is the '08 so I do not have a point to measure against. The throttle is very abrupt when transitioning between decel and accel in low gears. You are right about the part name. I couldnt think of it when I posted. I plan to buy one and install it after EOM.

I agree with the other posters. Take it to the shop. This behavior is NOT normal.

 
If you aren't doing anything to induce the bounce, that is a major problem. Same as others, mine is a harder engagement when cold, and if I roll onto the throttle hard, it will slip second gear for just a second. Nothing else and if I do it right, you can hardly tell a gear change took place. When shifting, I roll off just a little to unload the drive shaft, but certainly don't go all the way to idle. That would just be a harsh ride.

Usually, the engage point and the disengage point are overlapped so that they shouldn't interfere with each other. It sounds like there is an issue with your bike and I would be getting it to the shop pronto.

Just my two cents,

Bryan

 
Well,

I just got off the phone with the tech. from the dealer I bought it from. He agrees with those of you that say it should not be happening. This tech. maintains the owners FJR so he atleast has some experience with the A model. He is going to do some investigating and see what he finds as a possible cause. He does not beleive an oil change will make any difference.

This may really suck if I have to take it to the shop this week. :banghead:

I really want to make it to CFO this weekend but not voiding the warranty is piority one. I hoping it is something simple and they can have it fixed by Friday or possibly saturday morning. I could at least make it to the banquet saturday night. and get in a little riding Sunday.

The real shame is that after I picked up the FJR I tore my Concours apart to do some carb work. In the span of two weeks I could go from 2 running machines to none.

The upside of not making CFO will be having time to bond with my hot new single neighbor that just bought the house next door. :grin:

Greg

 
Never had anything like you describe. Even if I take off when it's cold, no jerking just a lot more slipping if the oil is cold.

I'm wondering if you have the dry/sticky clutch plate issue. Maybe they are slipping and grabbing because some plates are dry. It's an easy fix if nothing else works it's worth a try. just search for clutch plate soakand you'll get a step-by-step.

I'm not really sure what else is required besides an oil change at 600 but it can't be much. I wouldn't pay for a 600 mile service no way, but especially if your changing your own oil. NO, it won't void your warranty.

 
I have an 06 AE, and I have never experienced anything like you described. Most of the time I am not giving it much opportunity to warm up either. Then again, the temperature around here is usually pretty warm. I will have to pay close attention the next time I am riding in colder weather.

 
If memory serves, there was someone with an A model which had the clutch plates installed incorrectly. They engaged hard and caused a very abrupt surge when the clutch handle was released. It may help if the mechanic takes these out and inspects them.

 
I have a 2008 and no problems the low speed stuff can be jerky, but a little rear brake and throttle lets me control it.
As luck would have it, dragging the rear brake a bit is nothing new. My 06 Concours has a low speed stumble that I made up for by keeping the throttle open a bit more and dragging the rear brake. Doing so on the FJR has not been to difficult other than learning the feel of the braking and throttle.

Never had anything like you describe. Even if I take off when it's cold, no jerking just a lot more slipping if the oil is cold.
I'm wondering if you have the dry/sticky clutch plate issue. Maybe they are slipping and grabbing because some plates are dry. It's an easy fix if nothing else works it's worth a try. just search for clutch plate soakand you'll get a step-by-step.

I'm not really sure what else is required besides an oil change at 600 but it can't be much. I wouldn't pay for a 600 mile service no way, but especially if your changing your own oil. NO, it won't void your warranty.
It very well could be the clutch plates. Since it is under warranty I see no reason to hassle with it myself. I do all my own work on my other bike and could do this but, with only 500 miles on it I will let the dealer and Yamaha take care of it. I know most people here including myself do not like to take there equipment to dealers however, I have spoken with this particular tech guy in person and he seams well versed with the FJR. Besides, I will most likely be standing next to him.

As for the 600 mile service, the only real procedure I am interested in other than the oil and final drive change is the TBS. I have a mercury gauge I can use but the 600 mile service is only $65.00 and that includes all fluids. Of course if I change the oil then I would expect the cost of the oil to be deducted. Oh ya, and the steering head bearing check.

At this point I am going to hold off on the oil change until I hear from the dealer. If I have to take it in to fix this problem I will just have them do the oil change.

I understand the warranty is not void if I work on the bike. That statement was in regard to a possible problem if I waited to long to address the issue with the clutch.

I am a claims manager and there is nothing more aggravating than someone calling me and telling me about a problem they have that started 3 years ago. It's almost immpossible to diagnose a problem when the conditions that caused the problem no longer exist.

I will make sure to post up the results in case someone else has this issue.

Greg

 
If you want to fix the problem. Adjust the slack out of your throttle cable. I will almost guarantee that will fix it.

 
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I spoke with the dealer tech. and received the answer I expected. He spoke with Yamaha and was told that with the redesign of the throttle pulley the throttle can be a little notchy causing some of this issue. It will be most noticeable when cold as everyone mentioned but gets better when warmed up. Basically Yamaha's answer was simply to say it is the nature of the beast. Apparently Yamaha has received a few calls for this issue.

Regardless of this answer I will be soaking the plates when I return from CFO. Unfortunately I don't have the time to do the work or go pick up the gasket I will need before CFO. The tech. will contact Yamaha to see if they will pay the parts and labor to do this. If they will not then I will do it myself.

Thanks for all the input. I will update after I soak the plates.

Greg

 
A made a couple observations on the ride home tonight.

1. The clutch action is much smoother when the bike is at operating temp. So, always warm it up good for best clutch operation.

2. Because of the stiff throttle I found that I was easing on the throttle causing most of the engagement problem. What is happening is that when I ease on the throttle the rpm's come up to the engagement point, as it engages the rpm's drop down to at or below the disengage point. So what is happening is the rpm fluctuation continues until I've given enough throttle inpute to compensate. Basically I am babying the throttle to much. Being more agressive with the throttle eliminated most of the issue.

My resolution to this problem, whack it hard off the line. :eek:

Seriously tho, a little more throttle makes a big difference.

There are definately AE specific techniqes to learn to be smooth on this machine.

And yes, I will still be soaking the plates for better performance.

As for all the other little tricks and tips I plan on working on those over the loooooong winter.

Greg

 
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