Rotella T6 causing clutch drag and hard shifting?

[twilli01]

First post.

I have a 2012 manual transmission FJR. Oil changed at 400 and 600 miles. 400 was T5, 600 was factory mineral. Bike performed perfectly.

At 1300 miles I but in about 4.5 quarts of Rotella T6 and immediately notice a 1-2 second delay in the clutch releasing when the handle is pulled in all the time. Also noticed it felt stuck in 5th. Had to STEP on the shifter to get to forth. Really noticable change from the dy before the oil change to the day after.

Has anyone noticed dragging clutch or shifting difficulty associated with an oil change?

Has anyone a recommendation for a favorite oil that makes shifting buttery smooth?

Thanks Twilii01

Prev Yamahas: 06 FJR, 05 FZ1, 06 FZ1, 1977 XS750, 1970 DT1

 

[Ramblin]

Has anyone a recommendation for a favorite oil that makes shifting buttery smooth?
Thanks Twilii01

Prev Yamahas: 06 FJR, 05 FZ1, 06 FZ1, 1977 XS750, 1970 DT1

Castrol GTX 10w40 is the best oil for smooth shifts that I have found.

 

[El Cajone]

I've been using the Rotella T5/T6 in my '07 FJR for 5 years now with no problems whatsoever. I'm wondering if you put in 4.5 qts without changing the filter, you might have overstuffed it.

 

[twilli01]

The oil change included a mobil 1 M110 filter. filled. ran. then filled to exact upper mark. Seems to be the dry clutch problem. Plus some newness notchiness. I assume I need to do the clutch soak. looking at the pics it doesnt look like the cluch sees more than oil vapor or the occasional errant droplette.

 

[900gc]

The oil change included a mobil 1 M110 filter. filled. ran. then filled to exact upper mark. Seems to be the dry clutch problem. Plus some newness notchiness. I assume I need to do the clutch soak. looking at the pics it doesnt look like the cluch sees more than oil vapor or the occasional errant droplette.

Your avatar says 2008 so I assume you upgraded to a '12?. If that is the case, what did you run in to '08 and how did it feel/work? I'm happy enough with the clutch and shifting on my '08; I run T6 with the "Fred" tip... some STP mixed in. I'm trying to convince myself it's not a placebo effect, as it does seem to shift a bit better for the life of the oil change with the STP.

It sounds like your bike would benefit from clutch soak though.

 

[RossKean]

A delay after pulling the lever? Maybe your clutch hydraulics need bleeding...

 

[lnewlf]

Saw a pirate lay his hog on the right side to work on the primary..This would be a good way to do a clutch soak

 

[Top_Speed1]

This is weird. Second post of this within a Month. Wonder if the T6 has changed it's formula/additives?

 

[Fred W]

Really. Where is the other one?

I seriously doubt that the clutch grabbiness is being caused by the oil change. The bike may be suffering from stuck plates and need a clutch soak, but I fail to see how the oil being used could cause that. More like using the wrong oil (non- JASO MA oil) might mask a stuck clutch pack by making the few plates that are working slipperier.

Do a clutch soak. No you do not even have to drain the oil nor put the bike on its side. The oil level is much lower than the clutch cover, which is one of the reasons these things get stuck to begin with.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Um...Why are you doing oil changes every 600 miles or less??

 

[20valves]

I have never used the Rotella before but did use it for my 600 mile change (bike shop was closed) and I noticed these exact symptoms. I don't get involved in oil threads and don't sweat things like syn vs mineral, etc. but I'm gonna change it back to Yamalube which I have never had a such problems with. The Rotella "problems" aren't severe, more of an annoyance. And yes, as soon as I noticed the issues I bled my clutch and it didn't change. The shifting was better with the factory Yamalube that came in it. Maybe I got the wrong Rotella? It didn't have any of the dreaded "energy conserving" etc. labeling so I thought I was good. Anyway, having always used Yamalube before (support your local dealer!) I believe I'll just go back to that and worry about something else.

 

[snackbauer]

I had the same experience with Rotella T, dumped it immediately.

 

[SouthernCruizer]

wow...i posted a while back that my new 2013 was experiencing the same symptoms...hard as hell to down shift and clutch seems to take a second to disengage since I changed the oil,yet was smooth as silk at mile 1 - 600 with break in oil. I did my 600 mile oil change and put Rotella, as I've done for my '04 and '08 and absolutely loved and had zero problems with. I am thinking that Rotella has been changed. I am going to change my oil again and go with something else. I'll report back with results.

 

[Fred W]

This is all news.

Let's get the terminology straight here. There is Rotella T6, that is synthetic 5W40 oil. And there is Rotella T Triple Protection. that is the 15W40 conventional oil. Which is it that seems to be causing these problems? I've used the latter for several years with no noticed problem and several recently purchased jugs on hand now.

 

[Top_Speed1]

Really. Where is the other one?

It was in an AE with shifting/clutch issues, OP claiming Rotella T6.

 

[SLK50]

Rotella T6 is good enough to take a 20K dollar diesel engine past a

million miles yet it can't seem to get an FJR past it's first oil change.

Go figure.

I've been using T6 for the last 48,000 miles and haven't experienced

any problems. I think some of the stated issues are from a too gentle

break-in and not enough accumulated mileage. Nearly everything

on my bike worked better after about 10k miles.

A sticking clutch isn't going to get fixed without disassembly.

I would try to get the dealer to do it under warranty, first.

If not covered by warranty, then DIY.

 

[SouthernCruizer]

This is all news.
Let's get the terminology straight here. There is Rotella T6, that is synthetic 5W40 oil. And there is Rotella T Triple Protection. that is the 15W40 conventional oil. Which is it that seems to be causing these problems? I've used the latter for several years with no noticed problem and several recently purchased jugs on hand now.

Fred...i use Rotella T Triple Protection 15W40 conventional. I have used it for at least 300K miles on various bikes... '04 FJR, '08 FJR, '03 FZ1, '04 Vstrom 650, '08 Suzuki GSX650F,and '04 Ninja 250....NEVER had a problem, bikes always shifted smoothly.

Fast forward to Jan 12, 2013. Picked up my new '13 FJR 1300..bike shifted smoothly till I changed out the oil at 648 miles...put in Rotella T as usual...almost immediately noticed the shifting was notchy and hard, especially on the down shifts. Ran it for a bit, then decided to change oil again at about 1200 miles...put in Rotella T once again...now it seems to be getting even worse. Shifting from 5th to 4th is a bitch. Pull in clutch handle, and sometimes it takes a second to disengage. Blipping the throttle on the downshift seems to "un stick" the clutch.

At this point, before I take it in for warranty work, I will change out to either Yamalube or Amsoil synthetic.

 

[willboe]

Which is it that seems to be causing these problems?

The T6, The whole T6, and nothing but the T6 . . . < best if read in the old 'Dragnet' detective show cadence.

 

[Top_Speed1]

This is weird. Second post of this within a Month. Wonder if the T6 has changed it's formula/additives?

Like I said, wonder if anything has changed formula wise?

...and Fred, I was wrong, it seems to be more than just a second post on this! 'Really!'