Shifting problem - stuck in second

[HotRodZilla]

Didn't someone just have a problem fixed after a dealer installed a clutch spring backwards? If a dealer can do it, so can a home mechanic. Maybe something to check out.

 

[mcatrophy]

Didn't someone just have a problem fixed after a dealer installed a clutch spring backwards? If a dealer can do it, so can a home mechanic. Maybe something to check out.

If I remember correctly, that referred to the seating ring for the clutch spring plate ...

(Click on image for larger view)

Ring being removed Outside face Inside face



[edit]Fixed links to larger views [/edit]

 

[sapest]

While I was being very careful to put things back the same way, its always possible that I didnt. I believe that ring is marked "this side out" or something similar.

Shimming the bushing hole is going to depend on what free play there is before the lever starts to push the shaft, as noted by others. Thats the next thing to determine, unless Pazzo suggests something else. If shimming gets me Neutral at the cost of slipping, thats no solution.

Sigh.

-Steve

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As I re-call, you pull the lever out AWAY from the master cylinder shaft when you change the adjustment with the stock lever dial.

So slipping say a small washer or ? would be very simple to do..

 

[mcatrophy]

While I was being very careful to put things back the same way, its always possible that I didnt. I believe that ring is marked "this side out" or something similar....

-Steve

Not that one, the one labelled "OUTSIDE" is right at the back (I don't know what effect that would have if it was reversed, so that should be checked).

The one we are referring to with the "L" section has the outside edge of the spring plate seated in it. If it was reversed, the clutch would be very restricted in movement.

 

[sapest]

Ok, put the bike up on the center stand. (Note to self - put bike in Neutral before trying to get it on the stand)

Pazzo lever set to 6.

Neutral - rr wheel spins with little effort

First gear - clutch out - cant spin the wheel

First gear - clutch in - I can spin the wheel, but with considerable effort.

There is zero 'free play' in the lever. As soon as I start to squeeze, there is resistance. Lever end touching grip, and I presume from the above, clutch is not fully released.

Put OEM lever back on, Position 1, same result, pretty difficult to spin the wheel with clutch in.

I think I have learned something significant.

Comments ?

Thx

-Steve

 

[wfooshee]

What about with the Pazzo lever at 1, or the stock lever at 5? I know a longer reach is not what you're looking for, but it would be nice to know if that little bit of extra travel changes anything.

I have a hard time accepting that the stock lever, even at its closest setting, is incapable of fully releasing the clutch. Something else is going on somewhere else besides just the lever.

Anybody around you with an FJR that you and he can compare how each other's lever feels? In a friendly, clutchy sort of way? It's a bit of a ride for me personally, but surely someone is around there somewhere.....

 

[sapest]

I have a hard time accepting that the stock lever, even at its closest setting, is incapable of fully releasing the clutch. Something else is going on somewhere else besides just the lever.

Yup, I agree.

Stock lever, setting 5, cant move the rr wheel with clutch in.

Back to thinking its something I did.

-Steve

 

[rushes]

I think it's time you find a good mechanic. And good mechanics don't always work for dealers.

Reading your opening post, everything was fine until you stored the bike for 5 months and then did a clutch fluid change.

Stop and think about that...

 

[sapest]

Believe me, I have not forgotten where this started.

Thx

-Steve

 

[sapest]

Update.

No words of wisdom from Pazzo. Maybe they are just happy I am not blaming them.

No further help from dealer who did the two bleeds.

So today I placed a 2/32's thick nut inside the hollow in the brass bushing.



Lever all the way with nut in place. Lever set at 4.



Compare to this - lever at 6, no nut in barrel, movement looks about the same;

I

Road test is next to see if clutch slips with nut in place.

-Steve

 

[RossKean]

I have seen cases where the push rod has worn a hole right through that bushing. It is quite possible that yours is considerably deeper than it should be.

 

[sapest]

Adding the nut does not make enough of a difference to leave it in place.

The hole is 5/8ths deep on a new bushing, mine is the same.

No progress.

Maybe I will leave things as they are for the rest of this season and replace the clutch plates before next season and see if that makes a difference.

-Steve

 

[sapest]

Sorry, make that 5/16ths, not 5/8 ths.

-Steve

 

[HotRodZilla]

You need to go to a tech day where someone is willing to do a clutch soak. Disassemble your clutches at the same time and see how they're put together. I'm betting yours is assembled incorrectly. Some stupid, easy to flip part is flipped and causing Hell...

 

[sapest]

Thats a good suggestion, thx.

-Steve

 

[sapest]

Just finished Three Flags, (4600 miles) and while checking things over, I see this in the clutch reservoir.



I think this is an air bubble, & I suspect it shouldn't be there.

(used a mirror as the camera auto focus wouldn't)

Comments?

Thx

-Steve

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Just finished Three Flags, (4600 miles) and while checking things over, I see this in the clutch reservoir.

I think this is an air bubble, & I suspect it shouldn't be there.

(used a mirror as the camera auto focus wouldn't)

Comments?

Thx

-Steve

Don't worry about a bubble there, zero issue.

 

[Uncle Hud]

sapest posted: Just finished Three Flags, (4600 miles) and while checking things over, I see this in the clutch reservoir.<snip, snip>

Congrats on the 3 Flags ride!

 

[sapest]

Darn, I thought this was a breakthru solution.

UH - thank you. My first. And I did a SS1000 on the way down, it seemed like a good idea. Made the 3F legs seem short.

-Steve