Shorai Battery - not good in cold

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What the Hell am I supposed to do if I am running from flesh eating zombies during an Alaskan winter and have a Shorai battery intalled? Just as I get to my bike, and get all my personal safety equipment donned, I try to start the bike, and..........................................NOTHING.

In that scenario, there is no time to wait for the battery to warm up. That bike has to start and it has to start right NOW!

Instead...Now I'm dead and its all Shorai's fault. Losers!

Finally a cause I will contribute to..

I'm gonna take contributions starting today towards the purchase of A shorai and fuel for monkey ****'s trip to Alaska ;)

Send contributions to Zombie food, PO box 367 Owosso Mi.

I'm hoping Nat Geo can get a crew up there for our entertainment. :lol:

 
...Or you could leave the meter on to kep your battery warm in the cold.

:lol:
Geezer, not funny at all...That is exactly what's recommended, if the initial cranking is slow in cold weather, to turn on some electric devices for a couple of minutes i.e headlights, radio to warm up the battery.
What the Hell am I supposed to do if I am running from flesh eating zombies during an Alaskan winter and have a Shorai battery intalled? Just as I get to my bike, and get all my personal safety equipment donned, I try to start the bike, and..........................................NOTHING.

In that scenario, there is no time to wait for the battery to warm up. That bike has to start and it has to start right NOW!

Instead...Now I'm dead and its all Shorai's fault. Losers!
Well duh! Just turn the key on before you start putting your gear on. It should be good to go if you have your GPS and Aux lights running! :D

 
Well duh! Just turn the key on before you start putting your gear on. It should be good to go if you have your GPS and Aux lights running! :D
Agreed. Before the sky falls on your heads, consider the expected (not proven yet) life of the Shorai is double that of your AGM battery and also consider that, in cold conditions, the Shorai should have plenty of reserve to help start your bike. My personal experience (before I went with a lower viscosity winter oil) with my old batteries has left me waiting for the sun to come up to warm the bike a few degrees in winter to allow it to start OR searching for a jump because I ran the battery dead from two or three slow crank starts. A potential slow initial start but seemingly greater crank speed once the battery is activated in cold weather with ability to re-try starting on failed first attempt is better than dumping reserve charge on the first attempt without starting.

It almost parallels ***. Do you get right down to it but shoot one out on the floor within a few minutes, or do you take your time and warm things up so you can get more than one rev out of the engine?

 
I was all excited about this kind of battery before this cold weather cranking crap. I have no interest in it now.

Thanks for the post...glad I didn't throw all that change towards this battery.

 
It almost parallels ***. Do you get right down to it but shoot one out on the floor within a few minutes, or do you take your time and warm things up so you can get more than one rev out of the engine?
I hear Bust and Wheaton do that first thing. Sad sad men they are.

I do have to say the if starting a motorcycle in any way resembles ***, something is either very wrong with your *** life, or very right about your motorcycle!

 
It is good to know in advance that this type of battery, regardless of manufacturer has some issues with cold weather. Unlike a standard battery which depletes as you grind the starter, the LiFePO4 gets stronger as you crank. How many people regularly ride in the temperatures that Shorai says you would have to alter your normal start sequence (I do)?

Shorai sez:

Down to about 20 degrees fahrenheit (-7C) most users find that they can start normally on first crank...The suggested headlight-on time...at 40f (5C), 30 seconds will help...increase cranking performance. If at 0f (-17C), leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking.  

CCA ratings another way that lead-acid makers have tried to convey starting power. Unfortunately, their typical spec is based on a "half-nominal-voltage" delivery. That is, at their CCA spec, you can expect 7.2V delivered, at best; and 7.2V isn't useful, as you won't start a vehicle with it...

 

In any case, CCA ratings aren't about actually drawing that much current from a battery. The typical vehicle which uses a 200A CCA-rated battery, for example, will only draw 45A~80A from the battery. What the CCA rating really intends to convey is how much voltage will be delivered. Higher CCA rated batteries will deliver more voltage at the same actual cranking current. Our LFX are CCA rated to deliver 9V for a 5-second crank at the CCA rated current. (in fact, our average voltage delivered will be even higher during a 30-second crank. But our CCA ratings are intended to indicate not only a measure of voltage at true cranking currents, but also proper usage, which lead-acid do not) At actual cranking currents - which are always well below CCA, LFX deliver up to two volts more than an equivalent-CCA-rated lead acid battery. Current alone won't start anything. It is the current multiplied by voltage that does the work (watts). In reality, this means that you can multiply the LFX CCA rating by 1.5x to compare to a Lead Acid battery CCA. For example, our 270A CCA LFX18 series provides about the same cranking voltage as a 405A-CCA-rated lead acid battery (from a quality lead-acid maker; some CCA specs we've tested on the cheapest lead acid seemed to be plucked from thin air).
For an engine to start it requires some minimum voltage to fire the coils (>8.0 volts) and the ability to spin the engine at roughly 40 rpm or higher. Once these fundamentals are met then it is up to the engine management by the ECU. This is where any glitches in fueling would show up with the opportunity to flood the engine if it cranks too slow without the coils firing.

The FJR1300 Technical Guide sez:

The battery voltage is supplied to the ECU, and the injection time is controlled according to the particular voltage signal level. When the voltage decreases, the injection time will be increased to optimize the injection time.
The FSM (Gen I) sez:

During starting, injection cylinder control is effected together with injection duration compensation.To effect injection cylinder control, the injectors of all the cylinders inject fuel only once immediately

upon receiving the signals from the sensors during the cranking of the engine. This is called asynchronous

injection, in contrast to synchronous injection, which is a normal cylinder injection that is

effected on a cylinder-by-cylinder basis.

After the asynchronous injection is completed, and until the ECU receives signals from the cylinder

identification sensor, the injectors are actuated in pairs in sync with the signals from the crankshaft

position sensor: cylinders #1 and 4, and cylinders #2 and 3. Controlling both the injection duration

and the injection cylinders in this manner enables a precise supply of fuel in accordance with the

starting conditions of the engine.
I would expect a Shorai battery cranked engine to start normally during a slow crank, without any greater tendency to flood than with an ordinary low voltage normal lead/acid battery. Shorai says that they don't expect that you would/should have to do anything different until 20°F and lower.

 

 
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Do you all think that having 18 amp battery would start the bike faster in colder weather, compare to the 14 amp?

 
Do you all think that having 18 amp battery would start the bike faster in colder weather, compare to the 14 amp?
I woykdnt think so, unless you left something on when you shut the bike off. All the higher amp battery does is give you more available charge to deplete before the battery won't have enough to start the bike.

Otherwise, I would think they would act the same if fully charged.

 
Do you all think that having 18 amp battery would start the bike faster in colder weather, compare to the 14 amp?
Absolutely not :) There are some confusing terms used in describing the electrical characteristics of batteries. What you wrote here are the Amp/Hour ratings for the batteries. This is a measure of how much steady current the batteries can supply into a load until it is depleted to a specific point, typically until the battery has 10 volts at the terminals which indicates a nearly totally discharged battery. An example of this would be accidentally leaving your GPS on overnight. The Shorai battery stores more current than a standard lead/acid battery allowing it to hold up better to uh-oh situations like leaving something on overnight.

What matters to starting is Cold Cranking Amps. CCA is measured with the battery at 0°F and is the measure of the current the battery can deliver for 30 seconds and still maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell. For a 12 volt battery this would be 7.2 volts at the terminals. Batteries are chemical devices and their performance degrades as temperature goes down so this test at 0°F puts the battery at its weakest point. (Did Shorai put their battery under load for 4-5 minutes before making this test to earn the 210/270 CCA rating?)

The amount of current that flows when starting the FJR is determined by the resistance of the starter windings and is a fixed number. The 14 AH battery is rated for 210 CCA and the 18 AH battery is rated for 270 CCA. The FJR starter motor may consume up to ~66 amps so both Shorai batteries can deliver 3-4 times more current than the starter motor can accept. This means that both batteries would spin the starter motor at the same speed because both batteries would have the same voltage at the battery terminals. The Shorai batteries have move volts per cell than a lead/acid battery resulting in slightly higher voltage at the battery terminals. This higher voltage will let the starter motor turn a little faster than a lead/acid battery and it is noticeable when you crank an engine with a Shorai battery.

 
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"(Did Shorai put their battery under load for 4-5 minutes before making this test to earn the 210/270 CCA rating?)"

All their testing methods are spelled out in a missing detailed data sheet. :glare:

 
"(Did Shorai put their battery under load for 4-5 minutes before making this test to earn the 210/270 CCA rating?)"

All their testing methods are spelled out in a missing detailed data sheet. :glare:
Which is what I wrote to them about and have requested this information as well as some other things. We will see what develops.

 
Do you all think that having 18 amp battery would start the bike faster in colder weather, compare to the 14 amp?
Absolutely not :) There are some confusing terms used in describing the electrical characteristics of batteries. What you wrote here are the Amp/Hour ratings for the batteries. This is a measure of how much steady current the batteries can supply into a load until it is depleted to a specific point, typically until the battery has 10 volts at the terminals which indicates a nearly totally discharged battery. An example of this would be accidentally leaving your GPS on overnight. The Shorai battery stores more current than a standard lead/acid battery allowing it to hold up better to uh-oh situations like leaving something on overnight.

What matters to starting is Cold Cranking Amps. CCA is measured with the battery at 0°F and is the measure of the current the battery can deliver for 30 seconds and still maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell. For a 12 volt battery this would be 7.2 volts at the terminals. Batteries are chemical devices and their performance degrades as temperature goes down so this test at 0°F puts the battery at its weakest point. (Did Shorai put their battery under load for 4-5 minutes before making this test to earn the 210/270 CCA rating?)

The amount of current that flows when starting the FJR is determined by the resistance of the starter windings and is a fixed number. The 14 AH battery is rated for 210 CCA and the 18 AH battery is rated for 270 CCA. The FJR starter motor may consume up to ~66 amps so both Shorai batteries can deliver 3-4 times more current than the starter motor can accept. This means that both batteries would spin the starter motor at the same speed because both batteries would have the same voltage at the battery terminals. The Shorai batteries have move volts per cell than a lead/acid battery resulting in slightly higher voltage at the battery terminals. This higher voltage will let the starter motor turn a little faster than a lead/acid battery and it is noticeable when you crank an engine with a Shorai battery.
Excellent question and answer! Ionbeam is da MAN!


"(Did Shorai put their battery under load for 4-5 minutes before making this test to earn the 210/270 CCA rating?)"

All their testing methods are spelled out in a missing detailed data sheet. :glare:
Which is what I wrote to them about and have requested this information as well as some other things. We will see what develops.
Looking forward to this information.
My battree is starting to spin slower and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a new one. Yuasa and Shorai are close in price so..... I'll be wondering about Shorai's answer that ionbeam posed. ;)

 
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I guess we just need to replace the current engine with a diesel, then operate the pre-heaters to activate the battery - problem solved :rolleyes:

Don

 
I have been waiting to see what Ionbeam thinks about this battery. Glad you chimed in Mr. Beam.

 
I talked to several Yuasa engineers at the Indy Powersports show last year (Feb 2011) about the Shorai battery and they basically said that no technology that they were aware of had replaced the phyisics of battery design, i.e. plate surface area vs available cranking power. They predicted that the Shorai (they studied the design) would have issues with cold weather. The Shorai battery has only been available to consumers for a relatively short time. The Yuasa guys told me to tlak to them again this comming February because the Shorai will have had to prove itself in colder operating conditions. We'll see what happends this winter. I know that the Adventure mc guys/gals are looking at the same issues with cold starting and the Shorai design.

 
I'd have to say that their claimed CCA ratings are highly suspect. Someone that sells / distributes these things and makes money from them needs to verify it because it sounds like someone is playing games with specs.

 
I decided to do more "forum" research on the Shorai on other MC forums. Check these out, the good, the bad, and the ugly. Really not that much bad and one ugly. We seem to have gone off the deep end on our forum with this "cold" thread due to lack of data and assumptions not confirmed. The real test IMO is longevity. Yes it does have a cold issue for those in the Great White North or close to there. The one guy in Utah had no issues with his in the winter, hmmmm.

Very interesting reading. many pros some cons etc.

https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/161257-shorai-life-battery-review.html

https://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=23613.0 This thread talked of an older Shorai melt down.

https://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-6r-forum/46473-shorai-battery-torture-test-0-degrees-f.html

https://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643290

https://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=85633

Webbikeworld Review.

https://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-battery/li-ion-motorcycle-battery/shorai-vs-ballistic-li-ion-motorcycle-battery.htm

I tried to find some real world people used it examples.

BMW Sport Touring forum did more discussion on the data form the Shorai website, etc, no real world applicationon on the one thread I found.

Tons more forum data, Google it.

One thing about MC forums, we do some great digging, experimenting, and discussion. Love the knowledge base on the weiner-net. ;)

***EDIT 10/13/11

I have found some more information on this for all ya'lls reading enjoyment.

The best one to read is the ST/Owners thread. They go to extreme detail like we have here, and a ST MC LEO puts one to the test on his work bike, very interesting.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?95497-Shorai-Lithium-Iron-Batteries

https://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/103513-anyone-tried-shorai-battery-yet.html

https://batterystuff.wordpress.com/2010/12/03/shorai-lfx-abuse-test/

This thread has become a huge wealth of knowledge and data regarding the Shorai LiFe battree. This is great stuff. ;)

 
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Things found while reading Blue's links.

I love the skepticism on this site about anything new. It's a wonder some of you guys have bikes with overhead cams and fuel injection.
The bottom line here is that there just isn't enough data, information or experience available to determine anything like a winner and there are many questions remaining about the life expectancy, use over time, long-term reliability, ruggedness (considering the very flimsy terminals on the Shorai)(1) and performance when electrical gear is in use on the bike. LFP was apparently discovered relatively recently, in 1996, and the manufacturers are still working out the details of implementation.
The following is true about the battery not recovering if you let the voltage drop below 10 volts either by leaving something on with the key off or leaving the motorcycle sit for months while the ECU drains a steady trickle of current during that time.

This technology does not recover from going too low in voltage....
For that reason, cars (with lots of computers and remote controls staying awake and waiting for you to come back) are not a good application for this battery technology because they have a high current drain when sitting parked. It would be easy for an LFP battery to be drained by the car's computers to a level where you would have to replace the battery.
(1) Earlier this year Shorai batteries were unavailable while Shorai made design changes to the terminals on their batteries and now the new battery terminals should be more robust than the ones sold before March 2011.

 
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I'll add one more link from ST-Owners, Twighlight Error has explained some technical details as he was in the Lithium battery industry... I know Mike personally and his info is interesting. Given the cold start issues, that Lithiums lose about 20% of their capacity every year, and the cost, I see no compelling reason to go with a Shorai. AGM technology has served us well, and if you take proper care of your battery by keeping it on a battery tender type charger if you're not riding for a couple of weeks, they should last 5 years. On a 650 lb. bike, I'm not at all concerned about the weight savings.... just can't justify a Shorai until we see what real world long term life is. Certainly doesn't look good for colder climates.

Shorai is in the process of redesigning the battery, making more space between the plates, etc. due to issues they've seen in real world use. I am happy however to hear all your real world experience........

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?95497-Shorai-Lithium-Iron-Batteries

 
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