SMOKE!! stator wires

[fjrob1300]

OK kids I need your help. I just about burnt the FJR to the ground as I was about to take my first test ride on my new car tire. I could smell and see smoke coming out from under the gas tank and promptly shut it down. I had installed an ES Stator back in the spring. When I found the wires they were cooked. Now I did it all correctly at the time and soldered the connections and put on shrink wrap then taped it all together. So when I took it apart to see what was what one of the wires had burnt the solder off. So I reconnected the wires again and started the bike only to have the wires heat up right away. Hot to the touch but not enough to burn the casing. My question is " is this what stator failure looks like and should I just put my OEM stator back on?" I'm about to embark on a 15000KM adventure and would hat for this to be a problem on the road.

OK jump in and offer suggestions.

Thanks

Rob

 

[lnewlf]

Well duh- obviously the CT...sorry, just being a smart arse. I got nuttin'.

 

[Bungie]

My question is " is this what stator failure looks like and should I just put my OEM stator back on?" I'm about to embark on a 15000KM adventure and would hat for this to be a problem on the road.

Jeebuz! Musta' been that 12hr rain ride we did.

Pop the cover off your stator and have a look at it. If any of the windings are brown or black the stator is cooked. Stop putzing around and put the stocker back in. Lets hope you didn't cook the wiring harness.

 

[rushes]

Well duh- obviously the CT...sorry, just being a smart arse. I got nuttin'.

I agree..

Gen I's don't have electrical problems...

Gotta be the tire...

 

[fjrob1300]

Well duh- obviously the CT...sorry, just being a smart arse. I got nuttin'.

I agree..

Gen I's don't have electrical problems...

Gotta be the tire...

I knew it!!! Crap!! it's coming off tomorrow. NOT

 

[SkooterG]

Well, you know what they say:

Light a fire for a man and keep him warm for the night. Light a man on fire and keep him warm the rest of his life.

How many miles on the ES stator?

Other than the fact the putting a freaking Car Tire on your FJR brought all kinds of bad karma raining down on your poor, miserable existence, ES stators are know to have a fairly short shelf life. Never heard of them trying to light up an FJR though. But then you DID add a Car Tire to the equation.

Yes, re-install the stock stator. And check all the wiring.

 

[SacramentoMike]

Shoot, I'd go ahead with the trip. Prolly be OK. They have these, if the smoke is too heavy.

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I got nothin' either, really. Good luck with it. Hate to see a Gen I go cockeyed.

 

[fjrob1300]

Well, you know what they say:

Light a fire for a man and keep him warm for the night. Light a man on fire and keep him warm the rest of his life.

How many miles on the ES stator?

Other than the fact the putting a freaking Car Tire on your FJR brought all kinds of bad karma raining down on your poor, miserable existence, ES stators are know to have a fairly short shelf life. Never heard of them trying to light up an FJR though. But then you DID add a Car Tire to the equation.

Yes, re-install the stock stator. And check all the wiring.

I think that's the plan. Only about 10kms on the stator. But I'm not taking any chances. It's coming off... the stator not the tire.

 

[Geezer]

Don't worry about the smoke. There is only a small amount in there from the factory and once you let it out you won't see it again. B)

On a serious note, obviously the wires should not get that hot. I'd suggest you contact Ionbeam to see what he thinks. He has posted some debug information on here about checking voltages at certain places on the bike.

 

[ionbeam]

First, connecting the ES to the R/R: Where did you make the electrical connection along the wires i.e. at the stator housing cover or right at the R/R?

There are a couple of issues with soldering, specific to the R/R wires. It is common for oil to wick up inside the insulation of the wires due to capillary action, the capillary action is strong in fine wires. Second, due to the extreme power through the stator wires it is common for the copper wires to have 'heat working' change the properties of the wire. The first sign of heat working is slight discoloration, followed by lack of shine, followed by turning a dull red color. Any of these heat caused conditions will prevent a good solder joint. After the wires loose shine and turn dull red it is impossible to make even a good mechanical splice. Good quality copper wire without oil contamination will solder quite well and heat at the joint should never happen. Heat the wire with the soldering iron. Use a solder with internal flux. Once the wire is hot touch the solder to the wire, maybe touch a bit of solder to the iron tip to get it flowing. The solder should melt on the wire, flow freely and wick up the strands. Hold the connection still while the solder hardens. If done properly the solder will have a bright, shiny appearance.

Is the ES toast? Remove the stator wires from the R/R. Set your volt meter for AC volts and the range to accommodate readings up to 75 VAC. Start the engine. Using great care not to cause shorts or even more important, not to touch the wires, measure any stator wire to any stator wire. At idle the voltages of the stator wires should be within +/- 2 volts of each other. Passing this, crank the RPMs up to 5k RPMs. Measure the stator again. Any wire to any wire should be >60 volts and the readings within 3 volts. Passing this the stator is good.

Let us know the results, next steps dependent on the outcome.

Good luck!

 

[JamesK]

First, connecting the ES to the R/R: Where did you make the electrical connection along the wires i.e. at the stator housing cover or right at the R/R?
There are a couple of issues with soldering, specific to the R/R wires. It is common for oil to wick up inside the insulation of the wires due to capillary action, the capillary action is strong in fine wires. Second, due to the extreme power through the stator wires it is common for the copper wires to have 'heat working' change the properties of the wire. The first sign of heat working is slight discoloration, followed by lack of shine, followed by turning a dull red color. Any of these heat caused conditions will prevent a good solder joint. After the wires loose shine and turn dull red it is impossible to make even a good mechanical splice. Good quality copper wire without oil contamination will solder quite well and heat at the joint should never happen. Heat the wire with the soldering iron. Use a solder with internal flux. Once the wire is hot touch the solder to the wire, maybe touch a bit of solder to the iron tip to get it flowing. The solder should melt on the wire, flow freely and wick up the strands. Hold the connection still while the solder hardens. If done properly the solder will have a bright, shiny appearance.

Is the ES toast? Remove the stator wires from the R/R. Set your volt meter for AC volts and the range to accommodate readings up to 75 VAC. Start the engine. Using great care not to cause shorts or even more important, not to touch the wires, measure any stator wire to any stator wire. At idle the voltages of the stator wires should be within +/- 2 volts of each other. Passing this, crank the RPMs up to 5k RPMs. Measure the stator again. Any wire to any wire should be >60 volts and the readings within 3 volts. Passing this the stator is good.

Let us know the results, next steps dependent on the outcome.

Good luck!

Alan, you should write a book or something, I love reading your explanations and step by step debug instructions, always very clear and concise. k:

 

[JamesK]

If you do find, per Ionbeam's instructions that your wires are cooked you could try using the R/R kit from Easternbeaver.

 

[Solo]

Why you? Better you than me. Aftermarket stator, car tire. Tempting fate, don't you think?

Besides, I'm recently unemployed. I can't handle any more **** in my life. Maybe you are better suited right now to deal with it?

Honestly, I hope you get this solved with the help of others here that have sumpin for you. Obviously, I don't. I'm trying real hard Ringo...

 

[wheatonFJR]

I agree..Gen I's don't have electrical problems...

They do if they have an ES stator in them. I just happen to know this firsthand. :****:

 

[fjrob1300]

I agree..Gen I's don't have electrical problems...

They do if they have an ES stator in them. I just happen to know this firsthand. :****:

Hey me too! So now the voltage regulator is cooked too. it's off to the dealer. Times a wasting. We hit the road on Sept 2nd!!!

 

[Bungie]

Hey me too! So now the voltage regulator is cooked too. it's off to the dealer. Times a wasting. We hit the road on Sept 2nd!!!

Aw crap! Please PLEASE tell me you and your bike will be good to go!

 

[fjrob1300]

GOOD TO GO!!!! I'm back in the saddle, car tire and all!! i had to put the OEM stator back in and replace the voltage regulator. Whatever happened? I think it was my solder job on the last hook up. This time I used butt joint crimp connecters with shrink wrap. Job done!

Thanks to all who offered suggestions.

Rob

 

[Bungie]

GOOD TO GO!!!! I'm back in the saddle, car tire and all!! i had to put the OEM stator back in and replace the voltage regulator. Whatever happened? I think it was my solder job on the last hook up. This time I used butt joint crimp connecters with shrink wrap. Job done!

I don't care what kind of fetishes your into, but 'Butt Joint Crimp Connectors' sounds f'd up.

Immensely glad to hear your good to go!

 

[wheatonFJR]

All right!! When are you guys leavin' town? You guys wouldn't be travelin' south thru here for a beer and a Portillo's burger would ya? If so, I'd gladly treat!