Stripped Oil Bolt

[bluesurf]

After 40+ years of riding numerous street and dirt bikes I unfortunately stripped my first oil bolt on my FJR the night before last. She sits slowly dripping precious fluid on to a piece of undeserving cardboard while I type this out. We're both hurting, but at least she has a fresh gallon of Rotella close by while I have 3 bottles of Racer 5 IPA left.

Thanks to Amazon then an appropriate Time Sert kit arrived on our doorstep a few hours ago.

I have searched for a Time Sert installation FJR walkthrough but found nothing. It looks pretty straightforward but I was hoping someone had previously documented this....

 

[bruinFJRguy]

I did mine on my FJ-09 with limited info I found on fj-09.org. I just really tried to keep the tap straight. Some suggestions I found said to keep a little bit of pressure in the engine by way of compressed air to help push out shavings. I didn't have a compressor, so was just careful, backed out when appropriate, and "flushed" the pan with a quart or so of fresh oil when done. I also countersunk probably a little more than necessary, but you'll want the lip on the insert sunk so the washer can do its job and prevent any leaks. I used a copper wash afterwards. I probably was going to use a copper washer anyways, though.

Good luck! Too bad we didn't have this thread sooner. I would have sent you my kit. I think there are more serts and you could have used one for price of shipping.

Anyhow, good luck!

 

[bruinFJRguy]

Of course, you could also remove the pan. I chose not to on the FJ09 as it seemed like a lot of trouble. It seems like more trouble on the fjr. I consulted an experienced tech about the ramifications of any random shavings. He basically said don't worry about it, if there are any minor ones the filter will either pick it up or it will find a little nook or cranny to park in, and I'd be surprised what he finds in engines that run just fine. I'm pretty confident I kept my case pretty clean. I stripped mine at the first device (doh!) and was very unhappy with myself, but we did nearly 10k before I traded her on the fjr and she ran as new.

I was, however, especially careful on the break in and second service on the fjr, after learning this issue is common on the fjr also.

 

[bruinFJRguy]

Edit: I did mine at the first "service."

 

[Donal]

I 'assume' you have the manufacturers instructions to use the 'time sert'?

The 'normal' method to minimise getting swarf where you don't want it is to apply grease to the flutes of the drill bit and be prepared to pull the bit and clean it.Do the same with the counterbore tool.

You do have an advantage with doing it with the oil pan in place - any chips will tend to drop as you cut.

Good luck with it (oh! and save the IPA until the job is completed).

 

[rbentnail]

Another helpful trick is to dip the tap in grease before threading. Shavings will stick to the grease. Go in a turn or two then remove/clean/re-grease. Repeat. Good-n-sticky wheel bearing grease is excellent for this.

 

[Klubis]

I agree with the above posts. Grease that thing, cut a little, withdraw, clean flutes, repeat. Grease catches the cuttings. Don't spare the grease. Grease on.

One of the reasons I always like a new compression washer when I change oil is to minimize the possibility of me stripping the threads. Not saying that's what caused your problem, I just have a lot of experience with me.

 

[Donal]

Don't worry if a little swarf gets into the oil pan.

It will drop to the bottom and probably remain there until the pan is removed or...........

The oil pump is protected by a mesh screen, so nothing to worry about.

 

[SacramentoMike]

In the interest of hoping to avoid doing the same thing--HOW did you happen to strip the bolt in the first place? Overtightening? Cross-threading? If the first, did you happen to torque it? Use a crush washer? Thanks.

 

[Mossyrocks13k]

Good Day,

The first time i changed the oil on my 07, the bolt was stripped ( I am the third owner). One suggestion I ran across, was to "gently" lay the bike on the side opposite the oil drain hole, then open the oil plug and let the oil flow out to the bottom level of the hole. This allowed me better access to the hole, since I do not have a lift table. I also agree with the suggestion to use a bearing grease on the drill bit and the tap to collect the small pieces. The remaining oil was drained out after i set the bike upright and contained only a few extra pieces.

 

[bruinFJRguy]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="SacramentoMike" data-cid="1340846" data-time="1475435829"><p>

In the interest of hoping to avoid doing the same thing--HOW did you happen to strip the bolt in the first place? Overtightening? Cross-threading? If the first, did you happen to torque it? Use a crush washer? Thanks.</p></blockquote>

I stripped mine on the fj09 torquing to spec reusing a crush washer. I knew I was overtightening as I did it, but (against my better judgment) trusted the spec. I've been told that tightening to spec with a new crush washer poses *no issues. Since then I've tightened to personal comfort with a copper washer with no issues.

*Edit: originally this post said "more issues." Haha. Using a new crush washer diminishes risk of overtightening.

 

[rbentnail]

*Edit: originally this post said "more issues." Haha. Using a new crush washer diminishes risk of overtightening.

IMO- throwing the torque wrench in the trash is the best way to "diminish [the] risk of overtightening". It is the single most dangerous tool in the box, excluding perhaps the guy using it. Or you could simply read the modified instructions- it's long and well known that following the torque spec in the FSM will strip out the hole.

 

[jammess]

*Edit: originally this post said "more issues." Haha. Using a new crush washer diminishes risk of overtightening.

IMO- throwing the torque wrench in the trash is the best way to "diminish [the] risk of overtightening". It is the single most dangerous tool in the box, excluding perhaps the guy using it. Or you could simply read the modified instructions- it's long and well known that following the torque spec in the FSM will strip out the hole.

I do agree. Some bolts and fasteners don't need to be torqued especially bolts that require crush washers including spark plugs. You can feel the crush washer flatten out as you tighten. Just be sure to stop tightening just as you feel resistance begin to increase and you're good.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Simply get the correct sized COPPER oil drain washer at any auto parts store.

Stop buying crush washers and guessing.. Torque to about 12 ft lbs, it isn't going anywhere..

 

[Pterodactyl]

Uh oh.... this has morphed into a "to use or not to use" a crush washer thread. There is only one correct answer and everyone has it.

 

[bruinFJRguy]

So what's the correct answer?

Also, I learned it was "well known" that the torque specs regularly led to stripping on the FJR only after stripping the hole on my FJ-09.

Fortunately, by the time I owned an FJR I was well aware of the problem.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So what's the correct answer?

I have a Yamaha F150 HP, 4 banger outboard engine (4 stroke).

Its uses the exact same size/threads drain bolt, aluminum block (everything the same as my FZ6 and my old 04 FJR.

However, spec's call for 20 ft lbs, NOT 30. Its not securing anything,

it just needs to seal and NOT come loose.

*I strongly suspect Yamaha won't change the spec's lower as it would then open itself to folks suing them for

previously repaired oil pans...

(Same thing for regular Goldwing steering bearings. Their NOT tapered and develop a de-cel steering wobble with mileage (which the tapered bearings fix (with more surface area).

 

[Constant Mesh]

The 17 mm size offers an opportunity for over-wrenching. 1/4 inch drive sockets max out at 13 mm. So you're going to use a 3/8 inch drive socket.

If you're using a 1/4 drive socket or a short box-end wrench you're probably not going to damage the threads.

Might have been better if they had used a smaller bolt.

Air can enter with the oil filler cap removed so no chugging with a smaller drain bolt.

Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe they used a bigger bolt hoping that it could withstand strong-armed shade tree mechanics.

 

[odot]

Try putting a standard bolt in there that is bigger then the metric bolt.