Swapping Stator Cover Problems

[TomInPA]

So I am finally getting around to swapping the damaged stator cover that was repaired with JB Weld SteelStik. The cover came off easily, but the retaining phillips screw for the wire retainer won't budge. It is only supposed to have 4.5 foot pounds, but I couldn't extract it with an impact driver. Looking for suggestions before I end up drilling it out, and having to order a part. Also can anyone verify the stator bolts are 4-mm Allan?

Any general tips on reinstalling the stator would be appreciated. Looks like I need some kind of sealant.

Some loose metal fragments were in the old cover. Probably not a good thing, but most seemed to large to migrate.

 

[audiowize]

Try putting a propane flame on that stubborn fastener. If there's red loctite on the screw, the heat will soften it.

 

[TomInPA]

Is that Loktite also on the stator bolts?

 

[BkerChuck]

I can tell you Harley uses loctite on them. Micro torch and try to isolate heat to just the bolt heads should do the trick.

 

[TomInPA]

I went ahead and ordered new bolts and the retaining clip for the wiring. I'm not optimistic at all about getting the bolts out without damage, and the clip is already a bit bent, which could interfere with the rotor. I had to replace the one shorter socket bolt at the bottom of the generator cover since it was bashed in by the accident.


Order Details
5JW-15484-00-00 5JW-15484-00-00 CLAMP 2 1 $6.67 $6.67

90149-06019-00 90149-06019-00 SCREW 3 $1.67 $5.01


91314-06020-00 91314-06020-00 BOLT (3JB) 1 $1.42 $1.42


98507-06008-00 98507-06008-00 SCREW, PAN 1 $1.37 $1.37


Subtotal: $14.47

 

[mikerider]

There is a video here that covers it:

 

[ionbeam]

Just out of curiosity I watched snippets of the video. I've done that job several times, there is a lot I do different, I kinda wonder how that job is going to turn out. I see a good chance for a scored rotor and oil leaks out the stator wire grommet.

What I do want to caution about is your fingers around the stator cover edge when trying to remove the cover and then replacing the cover. The magnet really pulls hard on the cover, really hard. If you have your fingers at the edge of the cover and the magnet snaps the cover down you will at least loose skin in a very painful way. My advice is to never have your fingers or the palms of your hands in that area. FWIW.

 

[mikerider]

I wonder when installing the cover, by using some long bolt to guide the cover will make it easier?

 

[hppants]

I have done this job - they use some serious locktight on those bolts.

1. If you have a soldering iron, put it on the head of the bolts for a few seconds to heat it up and loosen the lock tight.

2. After heating it up, I used my impact screwdriver. One medium whack and they loosened right up.

https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-impact-driver

 

[HyperPete]

I have a tube of Three Bond 1194 semi-hardening sealant recommended on the VMax forum for the stator cover gasket. I used it on both my VMax and my FJR. I was unable to find it locally and ordered it online. You're welcome to use it if you want.
Oh, and getting that Phillips-head out was tough on the VMax too, but I managed to get it free using the Impact Driver.

EDIT: Whoops, I thought you lived closer. We're about 3 hours apart. You're welcome to use it, but that's a long ride to get it!

 

[TomInPA]

The video for a Gen III uses a 5 mm allan for the wires and T30 for the torx. The wires are retained on mine by a phillips that offers a lot less grip. Clearly, the newer bike has bolts that are much easier to release.

Pants, I'm going to try the soldering iron and impact driver. I have already orders some parts as backup, as I expect to strip the heads and end up drilling this sucker out.

 

[Bustanut joker]

I don't know why you are fixing it pre EOM.. I'm just gonna get drunk and knock a bunch of bikes over.

 

[DennisJ]

The video for a Gen III uses a 5 mm allan for the wires and T30 for the torx. The wires are retained on mine by a phillips that offers a lot less grip. Clearly, the newer bike has bolts that are much easier to release.
Pants, I'm going to try the soldering iron and impact driver. I have already orders some parts as backup, as I expect to strip the heads and end up drilling this sucker out.

That is probably a JIS head on the screw and not a Phillips. The Phillips head is designed to allow the driver to "cam" out to avoid too much torque during assembly line builds. The JIS doesn't have that feature.

 

[Bugman]

I like to use air impact wrenches instead of the manual hammer variety. That way I can really push the tool into the screw and then pull the trigger. Its easier to avoid cam out. I would get allen or torx bolts to replace the phillips heads. You can match the grade (5 or 8?) to maintain the strength.

 

[TomInPA]

I don't know why you are fixing it pre EOM.. I'm just gonna get drunk and knock a bunch of bikes over.

The repair was pretty good Barry, but it started to leak, and that shrapnel...wow. What I should of done is gone to Andy's Tech meet.

 

[TomInPA]

I like to use air impact wrenches instead of the manual hammer variety. That way I can really push the tool into the screw and then pull the trigger. Its easier to avoid cam out. I would get allen or torx bolts to replace the phillips heads. You can match the grade (5 or 8?) to maintain the strength.

Bolt grade is not issue when the torque setting is just about 6 ft lbs. Damn things are welded into the case with red loctite for the past 11 years, and nothing I have done has broken it free.

The video for a Gen III uses a 5 mm allan for the wires and T30 for the torx. The wires are retained on mine by a phillips that offers a lot less grip. Clearly, the newer bike has bolts that are much easier to release.
Pants, I'm going to try the soldering iron and impact driver. I have already orders some parts as backup, as I expect to strip the heads and end up drilling this sucker out.

That is probably a JIS head on the screw and not a Phillips. The Phillips head is designed to allow the driver to "cam" out to avoid too much torque during assembly line builds. The JIS doesn't have that feature.

This is useful. Gotta git me one of those JIS bits...of course there isn't much for it to fit into anymore.

 

[escapefjrtist]

<snip> Gotta git me one of those JIS bits...of course there isn't much for it to fit into anymore.

Not too much thread drift Tom...Vessel is your answer for a very nice set of screw drivers. Couple of prior threads on the subject - I have a set, luv'm, well worth the price of admission.

--G

 

[dcarver]

Thanks --G, now I have to work overtime again..

 

[mikerider]

The one in the tool kit under the seat is JIS.