Tranny (shifter) bokerforked (Found: star cam broke off the shift drum!)

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Hey Walt,
Just found out this evening my sister-in-law from Chipley is coming to visit tomorrow...

If she's got a big enough trunk, and has the room, I'm gonna try to convince her to take "The Lump" back with her.

That oughta save you about 600 miles!

Wish me luck!
Yeah, Baby! Great idea. Good Luck. :)

 
Don't feel left out, Vic...I'll buy you a double cheese and a small sweet tea from Micky D's next time I see ya!
rofl.gif


 
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Walt, no good news on a quick and easy delivery via sister-in-law....she showed up driving a damned Kia Soul packed to the roof with vacation crap. No room to load a box of toothpicks, much less "The Lump". :(

MissusHowie is heading up there the 29th, but this thing won't fit worth a crap in the trunk of her Honda Civic, and she refuses to let me strap it in the passenger seat. Yeah, she really IS that much of a bitch! :rofl:

 
Well, I'd figured on the trip anyway, so no big deal. Worth a shot!

At least she didn't drop off people to move in!!!!!
smile.png


Hey! Bungie it to the roof of that Civic!!!!

 
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Wfooshee,

If you can manage to get the lump crated safely, then terminal-to-terminal truck shipping can be surprisingly affordable. Forget UPS and FedEx, because they don't like heavy things. Door-to-door truck shipping is really expensive, so it's probably worth getting the crate to and from the truck terminals yourself, for the cheaper rates.. Shipping costs will vary wildly, from one company to the next, so it would be worth shopping around, there.

Cheers,

Infrared

 
Well, I got the shifter down into first gear using a pair of channel-lock pliers to turn the drum. I ran it back up as far as third, then back down to first, turning the shift drum with the pliers while turning the tranny shaft with my other hand. So it looks like the actual gearbox and shift drum are OK.

I successfully drilled the shift drum shaft, intending to try bolting the star cam back into place. The shaft had a little dimple which got me started on center very easily. Turns out the shaft opens up after about a quarter of an inch into the interior of the shift drum. Unfortunately, my plan hit a snag there, as there's no way I can turn a tap that deep inside the tranny housing; no room for the tool. Maybe there's an extension available for the purpose, I don't know.

Shift%2520drum%2520shaft%2520drilled.jpg


It's probably academic anyway, as while hand-fitting the parts I found that the shift ratchet thingamajig has a tab that will occupy the space the bolt head would be in, and without access to a fourth dimension to fold the parts through they will interfere with each other, like some peoples' valves and pistons, just not as catastrophically.

The star cam does fit on the drum in exactly one place, so the break faces mate very nicely. I don't know if it could be welded, I don't know if epoxy would hold up on it. I had planned on some epoxy under it with the bolt to ensure no rotation of the cam against the shaft, and some red loc-tite on the bolt, but the bolt plan appears to be out the window. If I'd been able to do that, I'd be riding the bike tomorrow. Maybe Sunday.

My employer has a crew working next week in Orlando, I think I'll see about diverting one of the vans a little ways down I-4 and US 27 (or whatever road they'll need down there....) while they're in the neighborhood......

 
Well, I got the shifter down into first gear using a pair of channel-lock pliers to turn the drum. I ran it back up as far as third, then back down to first, turning the shift drum with the pliers while turning the tranny shaft with my other hand. So it looks like the actual gearbox and shift drum are OK.
I successfully drilled the shift drum shaft, intending to try bolting the star cam back into place. The shaft had a little dimple which got me started on center very easily. Turns out the shaft opens up after about a quarter of an inch into the interior of the shift drum. Unfortunately, my plan hit a snag there, as there's no way I an turn a tap that deep inside the tranny housing; no room for the tool. Maybe there's an extension available for the purpose, I don't know.

[img=[URL="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Nqjesp27pz0/U7cDrIAcqvI/AAAAAAAAN1c/MtJlBUWKGUw/s800/Shift%20drum%20shaft%20drilled.jpg%5D"]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Nqjesp27pz0/U7cDrIAcqvI/AAAAAAAAN1c/MtJlBUWKGUw/s800/Shift%20drum%20shaft%20drilled.jpg][/URL]

It's probably academic anyway, as while hand-fitting the parts I found that the shift ratchet thingamajig has a tab that will occupy the space the bolt head would be in, and without access to a fourth dimension to fold the parts through they will interfere with each other, like some peoples' valves and pistons, just not as catastrophically.

The star cam does fit on the drum in exactly one place, so the break faces mate very nicely. I don't know if it could be welded, I don't know if epoxy would hold up on it. I had planned on some epoxy under it with the bolt to ensure no rotation of the cam against the shaft, and some red loc-tite on the bolt, but the bolt plan appears to be out the window. If I'd been able to do that, I'd be riding the bike tomorrow. Maybe Sunday.

My employer has a crew working next week in Orlando, I think I'll see about diverting one of the vans a little ways down I-4 and US 27 (or whatever road they'll need down there....) while they're in the neighborhood......
Just an idea. Could you countersink the part and use a flat head machine screw. Things would be flush then.

 
Well, I got the shifter down into first gear using a pair of channel-lock pliers to turn the drum. I ran it back up as far as third, then back down to first, turning the shift drum with the pliers while turning the tranny shaft with my other hand. So it looks like the actual gearbox and shift drum are OK.

I successfully drilled the shift drum shaft, intending to try bolting the star cam back into place. The shaft had a little dimple which got me started on center very easily. Turns out the shaft opens up after about a quarter of an inch into the interior of the shift drum. Unfortunately, my plan hit a snag there, as there's no way I an turn a tap that deep inside the tranny housing; no room for the tool. Maybe there's an extension available for the purpose, I don't know.

[img=[URL="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Nqjesp27pz0/U7cDrIAcqvI/AAAAAAAAN1c/MtJlBUWKGUw/s800/Shift%20drum%20shaft%20drilled.jpg%5D"]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Nqjesp27pz0/U7cDrIAcqvI/AAAAAAAAN1c/MtJlBUWKGUw/s800/Shift%20drum%20shaft%20drilled.jpg][/URL]

It's probably academic anyway, as while hand-fitting the parts I found that the shift ratchet thingamajig has a tab that will occupy the space the bolt head would be in, and without access to a fourth dimension to fold the parts through they will interfere with each other, like some peoples' valves and pistons, just not as catastrophically.

The star cam does fit on the drum in exactly one place, so the break faces mate very nicely. I don't know if it could be welded, I don't know if epoxy would hold up on it. I had planned on some epoxy under it with the bolt to ensure no rotation of the cam against the shaft, and some red loc-tite on the bolt, but the bolt plan appears to be out the window. If I'd been able to do that, I'd be riding the bike tomorrow. Maybe Sunday.

My employer has a crew working next week in Orlando, I think I'll see about diverting one of the vans a little ways down I-4 and US 27 (or whatever road they'll need down there....) while they're in the neighborhood......
Just an idea. Could you countersink the part and use a flat head machine screw. Things would be flush then.
If you're gonna do it, that's what you should try. If you buy a flat head screw from McMaster, they require an 82 degree countersink (IIRC) if you've got one laying around. Countersink bits are also available from McMaster-Carr. I'd also use metal epoxy on the broken part just for the hell of it.

 
Well, I got the shifter down into first gear using a pair of channel-lock pliers to turn the drum. I ran it back up as far as third, then back down to first, turning the shift drum with the pliers while turning the tranny shaft with my other hand. So it looks like the actual gearbox and shift drum are OK.
I successfully drilled the shift drum shaft, intending to try bolting the star cam back into place. The shaft had a little dimple which got me started on center very easily. Turns out the shaft opens up after about a quarter of an inch into the interior of the shift drum. Unfortunately, my plan hit a snag there, as there's no way I can turn a tap that deep inside the tranny housing; no room for the tool. Maybe there's an extension available for the purpose, I don't know.

Shift%2520drum%2520shaft%2520drilled.jpg


It's probably academic anyway, as while hand-fitting the parts I found that the shift ratchet thingamajig has a tab that will occupy the space the bolt head would be in, and without access to a fourth dimension to fold the parts through they will interfere with each other, like some peoples' valves and pistons, just not as catastrophically.

The star cam does fit on the drum in exactly one place, so the break faces mate very nicely. I don't know if it could be welded, I don't know if epoxy would hold up on it. I had planned on some epoxy under it with the bolt to ensure no rotation of the cam against the shaft, and some red loc-tite on the bolt, but the bolt plan appears to be out the window. If I'd been able to do that, I'd be riding the bike tomorrow. Maybe Sunday.

My employer has a crew working next week in Orlando, I think I'll see about diverting one of the vans a little ways down I-4 and US 27 (or whatever road they'll need down there....) while they're in the neighborhood......
McMaster-Carr, MSC Industrial, & Grainger also sell long taps. What size did you drill the hole in the center of the shift barrel?

 
I checked McMaster Carr and MSC supply. MSC has the better choice of taps. You are better off with a 2 flute tap instead of a 4 flutes. 2 flutes have more strength and less likely to break. See link below. As mentioned, try and use a c/sink for a flat head screw. If you are a purest and use a metric tap the c/sink will be 90 degrees not 82 degrees. If using american threads use the 82 degree c/sink.

https://www.mscdirect.com/FlyerView?pagelabel=329&search=87151932&contentPath=/sales-catalogs/big-book

Good luck,

Dave

 
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