Why my side case fell off

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Escape - why replace with phillips screws instead of lock tighting the OEM fastener? It would seem to me that the torx head offers a better way to tighten down without stripping the head of the fastener.

 
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When I removed the original screws I cleaned them with MEK then applied blue Loctite and proceeded to reinstall them.

Once in place I cut two pieces of silver duct tape, (the tape looks like chrome) and placed them over the screws. This helps to prevent them from turning out.

It has been three years since I did this and all is well.

 
Escape - why replace with phillips screws instead of lock tighting the OEM fastener? It would seem to me that the torx head offers a better way to tighten down without stripping the head of the fastener.
pants there is no real advantage to be gained by changing the screws. They are not very tight and its the thread lock that holds them in, not the torque.

If the screws need to be replaced because they are lost or damaged, Philips or Hex head will be easier to get is all. Also they will use tools you already have on the bike without needing a T10 bit.

 
Removed, loctited, and reinstalled mine this morning. They were all tight when I started, but the dealership loctite was nowhere to be found. I just need to make it a habit to check them at every service interval.

 
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Maybe it would also be worthwhile to install one of those star washers that bite into the metal. This along with lock tite should keep them in.

 
Like many of you, my torx screws were not Loctite applied by the dealer even though I asked them to do it. I used red Loctite as I see no reason to remove them in the future. Well, I suppose if I had a crash and destroyed the bag and needed to remove the lock to put on a new bag that would disprove my logic.

 
Like many of you, my torx screws were not Loctite applied by the dealer even though I asked them to do it. I used red Loctite as I see no reason to remove them in the future. Well, I suppose if I had a crash and destroyed the bag and needed to remove the lock to put on a new bag that would disprove my logic.
In that case, you could use a drill.

 
Escape - why replace with phillips screws instead of lock tighting the OEM fastener? It would seem to me that the torx head offers a better way to tighten down without stripping the head of the fastener.
Late back 'pants...I don't see a reason to keep the soft OEM fastener with a security torx head. By replacing with a quality SS screw with blue loctite, it'll be there forever. If you're concerned with stripping the JIS phillips head, buy a set of JIS screw drivers. The difference in fit vs standard drivers is huge and eliminates stripped heads. IMHO a very worthwhile investment...

--G

 
Or the "I've had FJRs for ten years and never had any rear bags fall off"...nothing mod.

#1. Loctite screws.

#2. Do nothing but load up and ride...even on bumpy goat trails that people behind you are cursing you up and down for.

#3. Repeat step #2 for ten years or more, or until you get jealous of your friend's new FJR and buy a new one...in which you would repeat steps 1, 2, and 3.

 
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Sure, the "do nothing" mod works great. ...until that day that it doesn't, like for this guy.

Then it costs you around $500 for a new bag and possibly damage the stuff you were carrying inside.

Putting a pin in the two side bags, (or one in your rear trunk) costs less than a Caffè Latte Grande at your local Starbucks, takes about the same amount of time out of your busy life, and makes it impossible for the bag to make an impromptu escape attempt.

And the best part is, you get to choose which way you want to go! In my 57 years, I haven't died yet, but I still have life insurance.
wink.png


 
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Or the "I've had FJRs for ten years and never had any rear bags fall off"...nothing mod.
#1. Loctite screws.

#2. Do nothing but load up and ride...even on bumpy goat trails that people behind you are cursing you up and down for.

#3. Repeat step #2 for ten years or more, or until you get jealous of your friend's new FJR and buy a new one...in which you would repeat steps 1, 2, and 3.
Yup, same logic as 'I don't need insurance I'm a safe rider', or 'shorts and tshirt is all I ever ride in'

Fred, I'm so use to the bags being pinned, the 40 miles from the dealer to home had me reaching around to be sure they were still there.

 
Or the "I've had FJRs for ten years and never had any rear bags fall off"...nothing mod.#1. Loctite screws.

#2. Do nothing but load up and ride...even on bumpy goat trails that people behind you are cursing you up and down for.

#3. Repeat step #2 for ten years or more, or until you get jealous of your friend's new FJR and buy a new one...in which you would repeat steps 1, 2, and 3.
Yup, same logic as 'I don't need insurance I'm a safe rider', or 'shorts and tshirt is all I ever ride in'
How did you know I only wear shorts and a tshirt? :D . You are a true savant.

However, I'm glad your solution makes you feel better and safer, too. I don't have nor feel the need to safety pin my bags on, but I do have insurance.

 
I nominate Wheaton for the Golden Spoon Award for stirring this thread. I thought it was dead but it's alive!

 
When I removed the original screws I cleaned them with MEK then applied blue Loctite and proceeded to reinstall them.Once in place I cut two pieces of silver duct tape, (the tape looks like chrome) and placed them over the screws. This helps to prevent them from turning out.

It has been three years since I did this and all is well.
Damn I hit the "Unlike" button for your post. I meant to hit "Like." I used Gorilla tape. A screw can't turn out when covered with a strong tape.

Bill

 
Where in the Hell is the "Unlike" button?

FWIW, I drilled my cases years ago,long after I LockTighted them. I find the pins to be a PITA and haven't used them for a long time. Thankfully a case hasn't jumped off yet.

 
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My issue is that those darn screws are hard to access as the lock lever doesn't raise high enough to get a straight shot with the tool. What am I missing here? People using short drivers, or what?

 

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