RedPorscheKilla
Well-known member
Yep, I used for it the small ball and it worked like a charm, wasn't messy or giving me scuffs I didn't want to see. I tired the cone as well and wasn't as happy as with the ball.
Yellowing Exhaust Pipes and Cans
- Thread starter Concourier
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Yep, I used for it the small ball and it worked like a charm, wasn't messy or giving me scuffs I didn't want to see. I tired the cone as well and wasn't as happy as with the ball.
Enn
Well-known member
I have 08 AE and G2 did not cure the problem entirely, but PCV did it. Ordered it from Fuelmoto and they preinstalled a right map for me (PCV was not meant for 08 from Dynojet). Don't forget to unplug the O2 censor, which I did in the beginning and did not get the full effect until I found that out.
What goes for this forum, although I am not a frequent poster here, I've been reading it nearly daily since I bought my bike back in 2009 and it is one of the best entertainment one can find, lots of funny characters around
And lot of good advice and help.
Concourier
Well-known member
I have 08 AE and G2 did not cure the problem entirely, but PCV did it. Ordered it from Fuelmoto and they preinstalled a right map for me (PCV was not meant for 08 from Dynojet). Don't forget to unplug the O2 censor, which I did in the beginning and did not get the full effect until I found that out.
What goes for this forum, although I am not a frequent poster here, I've been reading it nearly daily since I bought my bike back in 2009 and it is one of the best entertainment one can find, lots of funny characters around And lot of good advice and help.
Thanks! I'll check that out too.
What goes for this forum, although I am not a frequent poster here, I've been reading it nearly daily since I bought my bike back in 2009 and it is one of the best entertainment one can find, lots of funny characters around
And lot of good advice and help.Thanks! I'll check that out too.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Concourier
Well-known member
Doesn't surprise, since the fokked up throttle cam on the 06 & 07 bikes was fixed for 08.
Probably made the situation worse, since putting a G2 on an 08 or later would RETURN the problem.
I'm confused. The G2 Throttle tamer is listed for models '03 thru '12 (https://www.g2ergo.com/g2-tamer-throttle-tubes-1.html) yet Yahmie changed the throttle cam in '08 (although maybe at the throttle bodies instead?). So, yeah, you're right - how could the same throttle tamer work across all models? I'm sure I'm missing something...
Probably made the situation worse, since putting a G2 on an 08 or later would RETURN the problem.
I'm confused. The G2 Throttle tamer is listed for models '03 thru '12 (https://www.g2ergo.com/g2-tamer-throttle-tubes-1.html) yet Yahmie changed the throttle cam in '08 (although maybe at the throttle bodies instead?). So, yeah, you're right - how could the same throttle tamer work across all models? I'm sure I'm missing something...
TomInPA
Well-known member
You are talking about "fitment". It does work across all models, but only the 06 and 07 models need the G2 throttle cam shape to relieve the snatch. We installed it in "Bugman's" 2006 FJR after he skidded out the rear tire and low-sided on Mt Hamilton last year. It made a world of difference in the handling of the bike. It is a good idea to take out the excessive throttle cable play at the same time. Some owners will also add a Power Commander, but I'd recommend starting with the G2 throttle tube, and seeing if you still need the modified fuel map. For many, the modified throttle cam does the job.
rushes
Well-known member
Here's a copy and paste of a part of one of ionbeam's posts that might help or confuse more?
================
The '06/'07 share the eccentric throttle pulley that causes the rate of RPM change to be non-linear, which is fixed by a G2 throttle tube. The '06/'07 were included in the ECU recall for altitude drivability issues. The '06 instrument panels on some early bikes were recalled for an instant MPG readout stuck at 17 mpg.
Separate from the non-linear throttle response is abrupt power delivery. Some bikes are worse than others, some riders are more sensitive than others. This is remediated for sure with a PCIII. Some people claim that changing the CO setting helped them. Search out the Barbarian Jumper that enables the CO settings to be adjusted.
No FJR has to have any of these modifications done or parts added, but when required the G2 throttle tube, a PCIII and perhaps unwinding the throttle spring one turn are sure fixes.
=====================
Surging: At a steady throttle, light engine load, the engine speed varies a small amount which feels like the throttle is being opened and closed a tiny amount even though it is being held steady. Sometimes fixed by CO adjustments, fixed with a PCIII.
Abrupt power delivery: When the throttle is closed the engine goes into a decel FI routine where fuel injection is basically turned off, then when power is asked for again there may be small hesitation without response as the throttle is rolled on, then suddenly you get all the throttle that you dialed up. Helped/fixed by a PCIII
Abrupt Throttle Response II: The Gen II throttle cam is eccentric (not round) causing the throttle to respond in greater proportion than what the operator intended. The steep ramp of the throttle cam is right around the 3k rpm range. A second issue are the gorilla springs on the throttle pulley making it very tiring to use and makes fine throttle control difficult. A G2 throttle tube & cam will neutralize the eccentric throttle cam. Some people acknowledge the risks and partially unwind the throttle springs to lighten up response.
Drive line lash: Free play between the engine output shaft and the rear wheel. With the bike on the center stand, engine off, in gear, rotate the rear wheel and note how much free rotation it has. This could possibly cause the same feel as abrupt power delivery and/or surging. No fix, not proven to be an issue.
Altitude sickness: Total lack of throttle response, bogging, very poor drivability. Often initiated by rapid altitude change, often reset back to normal operation by cycling the key off/on. ECU recall.
================
The '06/'07 share the eccentric throttle pulley that causes the rate of RPM change to be non-linear, which is fixed by a G2 throttle tube. The '06/'07 were included in the ECU recall for altitude drivability issues. The '06 instrument panels on some early bikes were recalled for an instant MPG readout stuck at 17 mpg.
Separate from the non-linear throttle response is abrupt power delivery. Some bikes are worse than others, some riders are more sensitive than others. This is remediated for sure with a PCIII. Some people claim that changing the CO setting helped them. Search out the Barbarian Jumper that enables the CO settings to be adjusted.
No FJR has to have any of these modifications done or parts added, but when required the G2 throttle tube, a PCIII and perhaps unwinding the throttle spring one turn are sure fixes.
=====================
Surging: At a steady throttle, light engine load, the engine speed varies a small amount which feels like the throttle is being opened and closed a tiny amount even though it is being held steady. Sometimes fixed by CO adjustments, fixed with a PCIII.
Abrupt power delivery: When the throttle is closed the engine goes into a decel FI routine where fuel injection is basically turned off, then when power is asked for again there may be small hesitation without response as the throttle is rolled on, then suddenly you get all the throttle that you dialed up. Helped/fixed by a PCIII
Abrupt Throttle Response II: The Gen II throttle cam is eccentric (not round) causing the throttle to respond in greater proportion than what the operator intended. The steep ramp of the throttle cam is right around the 3k rpm range. A second issue are the gorilla springs on the throttle pulley making it very tiring to use and makes fine throttle control difficult. A G2 throttle tube & cam will neutralize the eccentric throttle cam. Some people acknowledge the risks and partially unwind the throttle springs to lighten up response.
Drive line lash: Free play between the engine output shaft and the rear wheel. With the bike on the center stand, engine off, in gear, rotate the rear wheel and note how much free rotation it has. This could possibly cause the same feel as abrupt power delivery and/or surging. No fix, not proven to be an issue.
Altitude sickness: Total lack of throttle response, bogging, very poor drivability. Often initiated by rapid altitude change, often reset back to normal operation by cycling the key off/on. ECU recall.
Concourier
Well-known member
TomInCA: Thanks, sounds like a G2 tube is in my near future. The wifey would appreciate it I'm sure - started getting turtle kisses from time to time.
Rushes: thanks for finding and relaying all that info:
Surging: I'm not getting any that I can tell, maybe a smidge if hold just below 2k, but I'm rarely there. The carb'd concours had gotten so bad at surging, the FJR is a dream.
Abrupt power delivery: Maybe I think I get this from time to time if I don't blip before pulling away? Intermittently, some smaller blips provide no response
Abrupt Throttle Response II: Def experiencing this
Drive line lash: checked this when I bought the bike - much less than my old concours, so I guess that's good.
Altitude sickness: Def got this. Maiden voyage with pillion up to the parkway just this past May, climbing hwy58 the last bit to Mabry Mill, with a pickup on my *ss. Sure got my attention. Thankfully, I had briefly seen something about it here on the forum before the ride so I wasn't totally freaked. Pulled over, rebooted, was good for a bit more altitude till it happened again. Reboot, and made it home. Went in for the recalls when I got back.
Rushes: thanks for finding and relaying all that info:
Surging: I'm not getting any that I can tell, maybe a smidge if hold just below 2k, but I'm rarely there. The carb'd concours had gotten so bad at surging, the FJR is a dream.
Abrupt power delivery: Maybe I think I get this from time to time if I don't blip before pulling away? Intermittently, some smaller blips provide no response
Abrupt Throttle Response II: Def experiencing this
Drive line lash: checked this when I bought the bike - much less than my old concours, so I guess that's good.
Altitude sickness: Def got this. Maiden voyage with pillion up to the parkway just this past May, climbing hwy58 the last bit to Mabry Mill, with a pickup on my *ss. Sure got my attention. Thankfully, I had briefly seen something about it here on the forum before the ride so I wasn't totally freaked. Pulled over, rebooted, was good for a bit more altitude till it happened again. Reboot, and made it home. Went in for the recalls when I got back.
Oy!! What a nice bike. Very pretty.This is my own '89 GB500 back when it had the supertrapp on it, shot on film back in 2000 or so:
No wouldn't make it worse. It would be double correction. In other words the throttle would come on so slow you'd get a wrist cramp before you actually accelerated. :huh:
Still, probably would not be a great idea.
But the there is that whole "throttle cut" on decel issue.
I don't think I really want to spend the time to go there again, especially since many folks think it doesn't exist.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Sorry, but I'm calling BS on the G2 throttle tube for an '08 and a snatchy throttle causing anyone to fall down. I have an '07, and yes, the throttle is abrupt. Properly adjusting the excess play out of the throttle cables relieved most of the issue. The rest can probably be fixed with a PC and/or maybe a G2, but I don't see it as a $300 issue. It doesn't even bother me enough to spend the cash on a G2.
Surely, it has never caused any kind of wheel lock up and a crash. That kind if baloney rests solely on the rider.
Many have said the G2 makes the '06 and '07 throttles easier to manage. The '08 was supposed to come fixed from the factory. I'm betting you have too much slack in your cables and don't need to spend money unnecessarily just to be like the other kids.
Surely, it has never caused any kind of wheel lock up and a crash. That kind if baloney rests solely on the rider.
Many have said the G2 makes the '06 and '07 throttles easier to manage. The '08 was supposed to come fixed from the factory. I'm betting you have too much slack in your cables and don't need to spend money unnecessarily just to be like the other kids.
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DrWing
Well-known member
Greetings Concourier,
I too had a similar problem shortly after buying my 06. Within a month they started to change color. Thankfully I have a real good mech who set me up with a "Power Commander", changed the mapping and the color changes were gone. Thanks to the EPA/smog reg's these ,like so many other bikes, come from the factory super lean. Bike runs better and pipes stay the same color without polishing. Hope it works out for ya.
Concourier
Well-known member
Thanks DrWing - looks like I do need to look into a PCIII or PCV (I know there's a difference, just haven't done the actual research yet) or at least look into the Barbarian Jumper mod. rbentnail expalined that briefly to me the other day, and looks like something I can try first, as its the right price.
Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
I have ridden an '08 and did not find it to have the abrupt throttle pickup of the '07. It is well documented that the throttle body pulley was changed to correct that issue after '07. I am agreeing with you completely, the rider has the responsibility to control his throttle with regards to rear wheel spin.
Dad's '07 was very bad with regards to low rpm surging and the abrubt throttle delivery made it very difficult for him to control the bike smoothly especially when coming off a closed throttle. It truly did not affect me as badly as it affected him and I think that a better rider than me could probably ride around the problem entirely. I did the PC-V first, after a few months I did the G2. It is now butter smooth and very controllable. Even better is that this fix restored his confidence in his ability to ride the bike. Another side benefit of the PC-V is that we no longer get any "altitude sickness".
Is this a necessary fix for everyone? Probably not. It was well worth the money in our case. It must be remembered with regard to "abrupt throttle response" that there is alot of horsepower and torque connected to that twistgrip. Things are supposed to happen when you turn it. As Dad says, "It is really really smooth but there is an awful lot of it."
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Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
This is an easy and useful fix. Unless you are buying used, you will want the PC-V. The III is outdated. Ours did not change the fuel economy at all, it smoothed the surging, it smoothed the delivery, and it cured the altitude sickness. It did not make the paint shinier, the tires last longer and did not make my hair grow back. But it is worth the money, for most of us.
Hey Redfish!!
How come your Dad doesn't log on here?
I mean... since he's an actual FJR owner (and after all you are just vicariously FJR-living through your old man)
We've got a bunch of old codgers (self included) bumbling around in here that would love to talk to your Dad. And he can just put a few select guys on ignore list and miss all of the more "spicy" exchanges about bestiality and lewd pitchers of hot wimmens that might mess up his BP.
Dad needs the FJRForum, eh wot?
Oh yeah, you need to buy a feejer too.
How come your Dad doesn't log on here?
I mean... since he's an actual FJR owner (and after all you are just vicariously FJR-living through your old man)
We've got a bunch of old codgers (self included) bumbling around in here that would love to talk to your Dad. And he can just put a few select guys on ignore list and miss all of the more "spicy" exchanges about bestiality and lewd pitchers of hot wimmens that might mess up his BP.
Dad needs the FJRForum, eh wot?
Oh yeah, you need to buy a feejer too.
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Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
Hey Redfish!!
How come your Dad doesn't log on here?
I mean... since he's an actual FJR owner (and after all you are just vicariously FJR-living through your old man)
We've got a bunch of old codgers (self included) bumbling around in here that would love to talk to your Dad. And he can just put a few select guys on ignore list and miss all of the more "spicy" exchanges about bestiality and lewd pitchers of hot wimmens that might mess up his BP.
Dad needs the FJRForum, eh wot?
Oh yeah, you need to buy a feejer too.
I joined this forum for Dad, he is not the forum type. I do most of the maintenance and all of the modifications to the bike. Therefore I was the one who actually needed this forum. It has paid off for me tremendously. I can't thank the entire forum enough for helping me make Dad's bike better for him. If you read any of my ride report that I am still posting you may get some idea of why I take such a personal interest in Dad's FJR.
I know you guys are gonna flame me, do what you gotta do. When I bought the Honda, I needed a bike that could travel with Dad, could corner with Dad, could make trips with Dad and neither would hold the other back. The ST was used, the price was right, money was definitely an object. It was not exactly what I wanted but it worked. Now, I am attached to the damned thing. I have done the same mods to it that get done to the FJRs. The seat, the bar risers, the GPS dash mount, the throttle lock. It fits me, I like it. It works well. Another thing, at the end of a long day, Dad would be struggling a bit with the FJR. We would switch bikes at the end of the day and he would benefit from the softer smoother control inputs. This is thankfully no longer an issue, I did not have to switch rides with him at all on this last trip. In fact now that I think about it, the selfish rascal never offered to let me ride the FJR.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
Just how did we turn a question about polishing the exhaust into all this other stuff? It was really interesting to read the very serious, very sincere posts this thread generated. I don't see that happen often. Good job gentlemen, good job.
***thread resurrection***
While doing a search for exhaust Change-out, wanting to know of any tips or tricks to make it easier (thinking it's a simple task, but have been burned before thinking that) I came across this thread. I just read the whole thing, and what a blast to read! Some of the responses, and reactions, are priceless. I could see this thread as a must read for all new members, so they can see how the interaction can be misinterpreted as mean, rather than cheeky. I found this incredibly entertaining.
Now, if someone will point me in the right direction concerning exhaust swapping, or tell me it's easy-peasy, I'd appreciate it.
Flame on....it's Friday after all, just coincidently though.
While doing a search for exhaust Change-out, wanting to know of any tips or tricks to make it easier (thinking it's a simple task, but have been burned before thinking that) I came across this thread. I just read the whole thing, and what a blast to read! Some of the responses, and reactions, are priceless. I could see this thread as a must read for all new members, so they can see how the interaction can be misinterpreted as mean, rather than cheeky. I found this incredibly entertaining.
Now, if someone will point me in the right direction concerning exhaust swapping, or tell me it's easy-peasy, I'd appreciate it.
Flame on....it's Friday after all, just coincidently though.
What swap are you looking to do?
Most folks just swap out the cans, which will be a bit lighter (maybe) and noisier (for sure). For second gens that also eliminates 2 of the 4 cats, but 1st and 3rd Gens only have cats in the headers. Even in the case of 2nd Gens there is no tangible increase in power or change in its delivery.
Swapping cans is pretty much easy peasy. You may need new gaskets for the new cans (ask the seller).
The bigger change is doing the whole system: headers and cans. This eliminates all cats and (usually) gives you a header with larger diameter pipes, smoother bends, for reduced resistance to flow. You do get slightly more horsepower, but the torque peak is pushed up higher in the rpm range.
Swapping headers is a bit more involved. It means having to at least tilt the radiator forward, if not remove it altogether, after draining the coolant. Its still not rocket science, but is a bit more involved and fiddly than just the can swap out.
Most folks just swap out the cans, which will be a bit lighter (maybe) and noisier (for sure). For second gens that also eliminates 2 of the 4 cats, but 1st and 3rd Gens only have cats in the headers. Even in the case of 2nd Gens there is no tangible increase in power or change in its delivery.
Swapping cans is pretty much easy peasy. You may need new gaskets for the new cans (ask the seller).
The bigger change is doing the whole system: headers and cans. This eliminates all cats and (usually) gives you a header with larger diameter pipes, smoother bends, for reduced resistance to flow. You do get slightly more horsepower, but the torque peak is pushed up higher in the rpm range.
Swapping headers is a bit more involved. It means having to at least tilt the radiator forward, if not remove it altogether, after draining the coolant. Its still not rocket science, but is a bit more involved and fiddly than just the can swap out.
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