I would wait, I spent lots of money on a PCIII and a G2 throttle tube, while I think it made it 70 to 80 percent better, the problem still happens. I tell anyone who asks me the same thing, it isn't worth the heartache. It should be a great bike.Boy, I just joined yesterday after putting a deposit down on a new 07.Coming from a BMW that runs flawlessly.
I am starting to wonder if I shopuld back out of the deal before I get bit.
I have wanted one of these for the last two years but am I making a mistake?
I liv ein Pa which has up and downs everywhere one rides, albeit not to the same degree as the west
Several points. First, just like Stormrider (and DPS with a different bike), I also replaced my flawless-running BMW with this bike, to have something more reliable. But I was a bit more stupid, since I read about this issue, and a friend dealer who sold me the BMW (he lost the franchise since for refusing to go stand-alone) stopped all FJR orders due to being unable to fix customer's problems, and still went with it. But it was just sparsely mentioned a month ago, when I bought it, and never imagined being this bad. My bike has exactly 400 miles after today's trip, by the way.
Now to the good news. After thinking clearly about it, this is a fantastic machine. I had a blast, it's more stable than my BMW was, was more comfortable, and I had a great time when it was running right. And there's not one new bike I want better than this in the market right now, so will be patient to get this fixed. The good news is by restarting once in stabilized altitude, the surging is minor. And when surging, it helps to keep the rpms at 4K or above rpms to avoid the motor falling flat on its face. A PITA, yes, but once I climbed the mountain, it was incredible.. once I adjusted the rear suspension on hard, that is, as I dragged the freaking peg on the first curve, and THAT was more disappointing than the surging. Am happy to say after the adjustment, it has at least the same clearance than my BMW, which is enough for a sport-tourer that doesn't pummel our knees to oblivion. Hope it gets better when I learn how to set up the front suspension better.
Hey, I think Gumba is up to something. Just read an article on Cycle World, and they said raising the idle rpm on the FZ1 the stumbling almost went away. They had no explanation, but tying the knot with what Gumba said, that might be part of the problem. Raising the idle reduces the vacuum when throttle is closed, which might be what's throwing the ECU off. How can it be explained what happened to me? Climbed a small mountain to cross the city, and came back down to the same altitude, then I rode for 40 miles at the same altitude (flat, straight road), and my bike didn't stop surging until I decided to shut off the motor at the border patrol station. Something is confusing the freaking ECU, and it very well could be the excessive vacuum. You also need to remember the FJR, along with the FZ1 is a 'world' bike, which means it's tuned to the most stringent emissions in the world, which is Euro3. And that mandates shutting ALL fuel on decel, something no other manufacturer does. And THAT might be what's causing the excessive vacuum. So one of you guys near a mountain, please try it: it takes two seconds to crank the idle up with the knob on the right side of the bike. Get on your knees, put your head near the right foot peg, and look up into the fairing, and you'll see a knob. If it doesn't help, please report it back here. Crank it to 1200 rpms, like Cycle World did to the FZ1.
Now one final thought: Why in the world did Yamaha fix the FZ1 in '07 and not the FJR, when both were having identical problems??? Bet they raised more hell than we did, huh? Let's start by calling Yamaha PLUS filing that NHSTB report. And no, I won't even waste time taking my bike to my dealer; they're wonderful, but what the hell can the do? They need direction from Yamaha on this one. My buddy who owns a dealership couldn't do squat, and stopped ordering bikes. He didn't want to sell me one. Now I know why.
Bottom line? This is AN AWESOME MACHINE. It's worth the wait IMO. And let's keep looking for other ways to make the wait more bearable. CO changes made almost no difference. I settled on +5 after many changes today, but it DOES NOT get rid of the surging. And neither a TB, BUT if you do a TB after reading this, MAKE SURE the vacuum level is 250mmHg, and not higher or lower. That's going to be critical too if too much vacuum is the culprit. Later gang.
JC
gumba said:Several points. First, just like Stormrider (and DPS with a different bike), I also replaced my flawless-running BMW with this bike, to have something more reliable. But I was a bit more stupid, since I read about this issue, and a friend dealer who sold me the BMW (he lost the franchise since for refusing to go stand-alone) stopped all FJR orders due to being unable to fix customer's problems, and still went with it. But it was just sparsely mentioned a month ago, when I bought it, and never imagined being this bad. My bike has exactly 400 miles after today's trip, by the way.
Now to the good news. After thinking clearly about it, this is a fantastic machine. I had a blast, it's more stable than my BMW was, was more comfortable, and I had a great time when it was running right. And there's not one new bike I want better than this in the market right now, so will be patient to get this fixed. The good news is by restarting once in stabilized altitude, the surging is minor. And when surging, it helps to keep the rpms at 4K or above rpms to avoid the motor falling flat on its face. A PITA, yes, but once I climbed the mountain, it was incredible.. once I adjusted the rear suspension on hard, that is, as I dragged the freaking peg on the first curve, and THAT was more disappointing than the surging. Am happy to say after the adjustment, it has at least the same clearance than my BMW, which is enough for a sport-tourer that doesn't pummel our knees to oblivion. Hope it gets better when I learn how to set up the front suspension better.
Hey, I think Gumba is up to something. Just read an article on Cycle World, and they said raising the idle rpm on the FZ1 the stumbling almost went away. They had no explanation, but tying the knot with what Gumba said, that might be part of the problem. Raising the idle reduces the vacuum when throttle is closed, which might be what's throwing the ECU off. How can it be explained what happened to me? Climbed a small mountain to cross the city, and came back down to the same altitude, then I rode for 40 miles at the same altitude (flat, straight road), and my bike didn't stop surging until I decided to shut off the motor at the border patrol station. Something is confusing the freaking ECU, and it very well could be the excessive vacuum. You also need to remember the FJR, along with the FZ1 is a 'world' bike, which means it's tuned to the most stringent emissions in the world, which is Euro3. And that mandates shutting ALL fuel on decel, something no other manufacturer does. And THAT might be what's causing the excessive vacuum. So one of you guys near a mountain, please try it: it takes two seconds to crank the idle up with the knob on the right side of the bike. Get on your knees, put your head near the right foot peg, and look up into the fairing, and you'll see a knob. If it doesn't help, please report it back here. Crank it to 1200 rpms, like Cycle World did to the FZ1.
Now one final thought: Why in the world did Yamaha fix the FZ1 in '07 and not the FJR, when both were having identical problems??? Bet they raised more hell than we did, huh? Let's start by calling Yamaha PLUS filing that NHSTB report. And no, I won't even waste time taking my bike to my dealer; they're wonderful, but what the hell can the do? They need direction from Yamaha on this one. My buddy who owns a dealership couldn't do squat, and stopped ordering bikes. He didn't want to sell me one. Now I know why.
Bottom line? This is AN AWESOME MACHINE. It's worth the wait IMO. And let's keep looking for other ways to make the wait more bearable. CO changes made almost no difference. I settled on +5 after many changes today, but it DOES NOT get rid of the surging. And neither a TB, BUT if you do a TB after reading this, MAKE SURE the vacuum level is 250mmHg, and not higher or lower. That's going to be critical too if too much vacuum is the culprit. Later gang.
JC
Sometimes there are just people that are negative fordes and nothing will every satisfy them...and they seem to want to make people feel miserable along with them.I'm declaring this thread as useful as a mud pie for a forest fire!
I will be starting another thread, hopefully locked, to post updates that might actually help resolve the issue.
I want my FJR to run right, but I don't think Yamaha will move any faster because of the repeated bitching from the same members on this thread. If you have decided to give up on the FJR, then please move on! You're just adding noise to what can be a useful tool in getting thing resolved.
Thank you,
Doug
The 06 ECU has been replaced by the 07. You can still order the 06 PN but they will send you the 07.Let's keep this in subject folks. And anybody who currently owns an '07 FJR is part of this group, so let's not exclude anybody just because they're less tolerant than us. I'm also a first time Yamaha owner, and am a bit frustrated as well, but we're together on this, so let's just focus on 3 things: 1- Force Yamaha to solve the problem asap. And we're doing that already by calling Yamaha CS (was useless for me) and filing an NHTSB complaint.
2. Keep trying to find as much info as we can ourselves.
3. Keep trying to find temporary fixes to alleviate the problem.
I have a question on #2. Does anybody know if the ECUs can be swapped between an '06 and '07? They should be the same other than mapping, correct? If somebody is brave enough to try that, it'd be great. I'd just buy one from a yunkyard and call it a day if that's the solution. We only need an '06 donor, so no risk to that bike at all. And an '07 beta tester. If all the sensors are the same, I see no risk at all. But leaving closer than 120 miles from a mountain would be nice too.
And on #3, can somebody else near the mountains please try raising the idle to 1,200 rpm and give it a shot? This has absolutely zero risk of anything happening, and could very well improve things. Good day folks.
JC
That's interesting. But I was referring to an actual '06 ECU. And if our '07s ran like an '06 (most likely), I'd buy one from a junkyard. Imagine how much a new ECU is from a dealer? I wouldn't do that. Or even better just replace the chip, or reflash it with the '06 data. But I'm getting way ahead of myself here; we first need to know if the solution works, and we have to try it to find out.The 06 ECU has been replaced by the 07. You can still order the 06 PN but they will send you the 07.
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