Coolant temp sensor is the identical part number both years. Thermosensor Assy - 5YP-85790-00-00 I don't see how it could read any differently.
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2013 Cruise control: Phooey!
- Thread starter AKjitsu
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Have not seen anything like that on my install. Was out during the flood run this past weekend and I had one occasion for the fans to kick on, they did. I think you have something else in play. I have noticed I don't see the fast cycling on the temp gauge that I used to see. The temp readings climb and fall much more like I would expect them too. I don't have the jump to 195 and then quickly drop back to 160 and back again.
I think some people may have read too much into the post.
The fan is not coming on. That is normal if the ECU senses that coolant temperature is normal.
What is normal? Well, the thermostat is completely closed until ~ 160 deg F. From there it opens proportionally until it is fully open at 185 F. I do not know the exact temperature that the fans come on at (not in the FSM that I can find), but I suspect it is somewhere north of 200F. I did find an "Idling Condition Water Temperature" spec of 194 - 230 degrees F.
Seems we have a flock of "Chicken Littles" on the forum these days.
He is saying he thinks the engine temp is running rather high. How high? He doesn't say.
The fan is not coming on. That is normal if the ECU senses that coolant temperature is normal.
What is normal? Well, the thermostat is completely closed until ~ 160 deg F. From there it opens proportionally until it is fully open at 185 F. I do not know the exact temperature that the fans come on at (not in the FSM that I can find), but I suspect it is somewhere north of 200F. I did find an "Idling Condition Water Temperature" spec of 194 - 230 degrees F.
Seems we have a flock of "Chicken Littles" on the forum these days.
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AKjitsu
Well-known member
Oh sure. Make fun of my dyslexia. Real nice.
I really can't see the new ECU having anything to do with this. Sure there is not some other explanation? Like operator error?
AKjitsu
Well-known member
I have a pretty good sense of what temps the gauge "normally" reads under different conditions. Being a bean counter by trade I just automatically mentally record numbers I see. Under the conditions existing when I rode for the first time with the new ecu, it was reading about 20 - 25 degrees higher than it used to. Absolutely nothing alarming going on. Just one of those "Hmmm.... That's a little odd." kind of things.I think some people may have read too much into the post.He is saying he thinks the engine temp is running rather high. How high? He doesn't say.
The fan is not coming on. That is normal if the ECU senses that coolant temperature is normal.
What is normal? Well, the thermostat is completely closed until ~ 160 deg F. From there it opens proportionally until it is fully open at 185 F. I do not know the exact temperature that the fans come on at (not in the FSM that I can find), but I suspect it is somewhere north of 200F. I did find an "Idling Condition Water Temperature" spec of 194 - 230 degrees F.
Seems we have a flock of "Chicken Littles" on the forum these days.
Maybe all that oil leaking from your friend's ES rear shock coated your radiator causing the higher temps & shorted out the fan?
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SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Maybe all that oil leaking from your friend's ES rear shock coated your radiator causing the higher temps & shorted out the fan?
Now that right there is funnee!
Jerry, will your fan still eventually kick on? I is Confucius.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Yeah, much like Skooter at a swinger party, this could go both ways.
Are you saying, "The temp reads higher but not so high as to make the fans come on" or are you saying, "The temp is reading higher and the fans are malfunctioning because they won't come on?" When I first read it I thought it was #2, but after Fred pointed it out, now I think it's #1.
Soooooooooo??
Are you saying, "The temp reads higher but not so high as to make the fans come on" or are you saying, "The temp is reading higher and the fans are malfunctioning because they won't come on?" When I first read it I thought it was #2, but after Fred pointed it out, now I think it's #1.
Soooooooooo??
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wheatonFJR
...
Yeah, don't follow your friend anywhere!Maybe all that oil leaking from your friend's ES rear shock coated your radiator causing the higher temps & shorted out the fan?
My fans did kick on...the temp was over 200 before they kicked in...about were they kicked in prior according to my experience. As I noted, the only real change I see is I have a less jumpy temp reading vs the old ECU. On cool mornings as I rode in to work (45/50 degrees-ish) my old ECU would cycle quickly...up to 195 then quickly back to 164/165...then snap back up and repeat. It would complete a cycle in what seemed like less than 60 seconds. The new ECU seems to reflect more of what I would expect in the temp reading. Slower changes....perhaps there is a difference in the sampling rate in the newer ECU. This stuff is all digital I assume?
Aha!! Now we get to the crux of the biscuit!
On 2013's it was noted that the temp display was fluctuating by ~40-50 degrees as the thermostats cycles, and many owners thought that this MUST be something wrong with the bike. They pestered their dealerships, and posted angst filled commentary in the on-line forums. As much as people were assured that their meters were only displaying what was actually happening to the coolant temperature, and to "worry less and ride more", there was still a lot of discontent.
I could imagine that Yamaha might have included some display averaging, or buffering algorithm of the display to assuage those (unfounded) fears of any future nervous Nellies. So, It's just a new feature!
Bungie
FrostBack #2 - IBA # 44620
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Top_Speed1
Panama Canal Crosser
I haven't been following the techie side of the FJR of late, but isn't there a ECU reader/writer out there yet? Has to be something?
On my Beemer, I use a device called the GS-911. It's wifi (to display info to smartphones/tabs) and includes 100's of measurements (even scoped graphs) and nay reading from the bike, exactly what the dealer gets. It plugs-in to the Can-bus connector under my front seat. I can read all fault codes (and clear them!), including even little piddly ones like a faulty kick-stand switch. With a USB connected Laptop, I can also write to the ECU/Canbus on minor stuff like Engine RPM idle, Cruise engage and dis-engage speed and the all so common; service intervals and resetting of the service light reminder with set date and/or mileage threshold. It's priceless in every aspect, I call it my electronic wrench.
Since the FJR has been out now for quite some years, there has to be someone who has done up this and maybe migrated it off of another Yami platform.
On my Beemer, I use a device called the GS-911. It's wifi (to display info to smartphones/tabs) and includes 100's of measurements (even scoped graphs) and nay reading from the bike, exactly what the dealer gets. It plugs-in to the Can-bus connector under my front seat. I can read all fault codes (and clear them!), including even little piddly ones like a faulty kick-stand switch. With a USB connected Laptop, I can also write to the ECU/Canbus on minor stuff like Engine RPM idle, Cruise engage and dis-engage speed and the all so common; service intervals and resetting of the service light reminder with set date and/or mileage threshold. It's priceless in every aspect, I call it my electronic wrench.
Since the FJR has been out now for quite some years, there has to be someone who has done up this and maybe migrated it off of another Yami platform.
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AKjitsu
Well-known member
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graler
Well-known member
You guys are my heros for trying out this swap. Since two of the toll roads near me carry an 80 and an 85 mph speed limit and most of the other roads are 75 mph the 82 mph was a limiter. This was particularly heart breaking considering that the color of the 13 is my fave of the gen III. Now there isn't a new bike in my immediate future. The 06 still has very low miles - so I need to change that - hard to justify the expense when it does a lot of sitting. My job is such that I put about 3500 a month on the car so when I get home I tend to stay there. That and 2 kids in college tends to impact the fun money.
ApexGT
Well-known member
Love the cruise on my new Supertenere
In my observations, living in SoCal where temps regularly run around 100F, I can report that the thermostat indeed opens at 185. Engine temp than slowly settles around 164 in normal driving. In city driving the temp will climb to 230 for the fans to kick in and then they will cool the engine to less than 212 before they cut out. Then the game begins again, unless you have picked up speed and cooling. The temp will then come down to around 170 fairly fast and settle back to 164 in time. If ambient temps are more than 100F the running temp will slowly rise up to 195 and stay there.I think some people may have read too much into the post.
He is saying he thinks the engine temp is running rather high. How high? He doesn't say.
The fan is not coming on. That is normal if the ECU senses that coolant temperature is normal.
What is normal? Well, the thermostat is completely closed until ~ 160 deg F. From there it opens proportionally until it is fully open at 185 F. I do not know the exact temperature that the fans come on at (not in the FSM that I can find), but I suspect it is somewhere north of 200F. I did find an "Idling Condition Water Temperature" spec of 194 - 230 degrees F.
Seems we have a flock of "Chicken Littles" on the forum these days.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
All GenIII's have the digital temperature that shows you every little fluctuation that prior gen's did not........ put that on an obscure screen and ignore for the most part.
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