2016 Is Official 6-spd, Slipper, LEDs, Analog Tach, Price

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How many watts were saved by converting to LED headlights and taillights?

I've seen a 2016 Owner's Manual and it shows the reduced fuse size for the headlights -- 7.5 amps vs the 25 amps of the older models.

Was the output of the charging system changed?
IIRC, one of the on-line reviews made reference the LED lighting saved 84 watts [on high beam?] and charging system output [590 watts] was unchanged.

I'll try to find the article again...

--G

Edit - from the Motorcyclist Online review.

Other news for the 2016 FJR is the addition of cornering lights on the ES model, while both get the full LED treatment that saves 84 watts with the high-beams going. (The charging system keeps its 590-watt output from last year.) A new Inertial Measuring Unit (IMU) informs the three LED segments in the headlight eyebrows to come on with increasing lean angle; at 7 degrees, 11 degrees, and 16 degrees, progressively. Both the cornering lights and the new LED main beams are effective, bright and well defined on the road. LED turn signals and tail light help dress up a rear end that hasn’t changed much since 2003.
 
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Its blue! depending on what place you bought yours
smile.png


 
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So what is the proposed top end speed since the Motorcycle Daily review chart that Gramps posted shows 6th gear speed significantly past the top of the old 5th gear top end?

 
OTD price comparisons are pretty much useless unless you are comparing a local purchase with your neighbor. The sales tax in Cullman, AL is 3%. Up here in the Seattle area it's 9.5%. On a $16k motorcycle that's $480 versus $1,520, or a $1,040 difference. The best comparison is cost + shipping + setup. Tax and license are location dependent. For example, D&H charges $16k for an ES, shipping and setup included. Shipping is included in dealer cost so anyone charging you additional for it is double dipping. Setup costs are typically $90, but as I said earlier, D&H includes that in their price. You take that purchase home and pay your local tax and licensing fees.

You should never have to pay sales tax for an out of State purchase on a vehicle. The dealer simply fills out a State 'drive out' form and is not obligated to charge you sales tax for their State. <If> for some reason you do pay out of State sales tax there are forms available at your State's DOL which you fill out and you get to subtract any sales taxes you paid from the tax charges in your State. Be careful you are not paying a higher rate out of State than your local sales rate because they will NOT refund you $. Best is to not pay the out of State tax at all. If you purchase in Canada you apply for a refund of the tax from the Canadian government.

 
AdamK has an excellent point... for comparison purposes I have been very focused on the base prices. That includes the cost of the bike period and not sales tax or licensing/titling fees. I'm targeting the D&H price but since I would have to pay secondary shipping costs to get it to me I am willing to add $500 to that just to stay local. That means my target price for an ES is no more than $16,500 OTD not including sales tax or licensing/title fees. Add sales tax and fees on to that.

 
<If> for some reason you do pay out of State sales tax there are forms available at your State's DOL which you fill out and you get to subtract any sales taxes you paid from the tax charges in your State.
Good post but a word about the above if I may. I believe this only holds true if your home state has reciprocity with the selling state. If they don't then you'll probably be paying the full tax at home and filing forms afterwards with the dealer or their state for a refund. Does anyone really want to deal with that? Best to ask these questions locally ahead of time.

 
<If> for some reason you do pay out of State sales tax there are forms available at your State's DOL which you fill out and you get to subtract any sales taxes you paid from the tax charges in your State.
Good post but a word about the above if I may. I believe this only holds true if your home state has reciprocity with the selling state. If they don't then you'll probably be paying the full tax at home and filing forms afterwards with the dealer or their state for a refund. Does anyone really want to deal with that? Best to ask these questions locally ahead of time.
The Washington State RCW for refund of sales tax paid in another State applies to any State in the Country. But, that might not be the case in other States. The best thing to do is fill out the paper work to avoid paying other State taxes in the first place. Simplifies the process.

 
AdamK has an excellent point... for comparison purposes I have been very focused on the base prices. That includes the cost of the bike period and not sales tax or licensing/titling fees. I'm targeting the D&H price but since I would have to pay secondary shipping costs to get it to me I am willing to add $500 to that just to stay local. That means my target price for an ES is no more than $16,500 OTD not including sales tax or licensing/title fees. Add sales tax and fees on to that.
This was exactly what I did. I offered as much as $16,850 to local dealers. My shipping cost was $650. None of the dealers I called would take that offer. That being said, I tried this pretty early in the game right after pricing was announced. Some of the dealers didn't even know pricing had been announced. I <think> now that the bikes are starting to show up and the dealers have had time to think about it they <might> be willing to accept offers in that range. There have been several purchases around here in the $17k to $17.1k range. Still a decent deal! This may change as the spring buying hoards start to roll in. Might have to wait until fall/winter to get the really good deals.....

 
OTD price comparisons are pretty much useless unless you are comparing a local purchase with your neighbor. The sales tax in Cullman, AL is 3%. Up here in the Seattle area it's 9.5%. On a $16k motorcycle that's $480 versus $1,520, or a $1,040 difference. The best comparison is cost + shipping + setup. Tax and license are location dependent. For example, D&H charges $16k for an ES, shipping and setup included. Shipping is included in dealer cost so anyone charging you additional for it is double dipping. Setup costs are typically $90, but as I said earlier, D&H includes that in their price. You take that purchase home and pay your local tax and licensing fees.
You should never have to pay sales tax for an out of State purchase on a vehicle. The dealer simply fills out a State 'drive out' form and is not obligated to charge you sales tax for their State. <If> for some reason you do pay out of State sales tax there are forms available at your State's DOL which you fill out and you get to subtract any sales taxes you paid from the tax charges in your State. Be careful you are not paying a higher rate out of State than your local sales rate because they will NOT refund you $. Best is to not pay the out of State tax at all. If you purchase in Canada you apply for a refund of the tax from the Canadian government.
I agree about your definition of OTD price AdamK. Price comparisons don't mean much and get very foggy when you start adding in variables like sales tax, licensing, extended warranties, or service contracts. When I want to know how much someone paid, I only want to know price and if they tack on a shipping or setup costs.

 
I agree about your definition of OTD price AdamK. Price comparisons don't mean much and get very foggy when you start adding in variables like sales tax, licensing, extended warranties, or service contracts. When I want to know how much someone paid, I only want to know price and if they tack on a shipping or setup costs.
And it becomes virtually meaningless when a trade-in is involved. The dealer will gladly write up a sale for a really low price if they know they can make up the difference on the sale of the trade-in. Financing can also muddle the process as they can make money on that too.

 
When I bought my bike in Colorado, they charged me NM sales tax, during the sale. Then they handed me a check for the tax amount so I could give it to MVD here in NM when I got back and submitted for my plates. Super easy! As said, I would ask before I buy!

 
When I bought my bike in Colorado, they charged me NM sales tax, during the sale. Then they handed me a check for the tax amount so I could give it to MVD here in NM when I got back and submitted for my plates. Super easy! As said, I would ask before I buy!
That's an interesting way to do it. Was it a large dealer chain with a presence in NM? I know when an online store has a physical presence in your home State they have to charge you your sales tax....

 
Probably slower, being aerodynamically limited. it would not surprise me that 5th would reach a higher speed.
My VF1100S had a 6 speed with 6th being a heavy over drive. 5th gear would pull to red line very strong, but there was no possible way that 6th could even think of hitting red line. In the end, 6th would pull pretty strong right up the the red line speed of 5th, but after that the mph's added on very slowly. Typically and with reasonable time 6th was good for 10-15 mph more than 5th, the better you could tuck in the faster 6th would gain speed and the higher the ultimate speed would be.

 
When I bought my bike in Colorado, they charged me NM sales tax, during the sale. Then they handed me a check for the tax amount so I could give it to MVD here in NM when I got back and submitted for my plates. Super easy! As said, I would ask before I buy!
That's an interesting way to do it. Was it a large dealer chain with a presence in NM? I know when an online store has a physical presence in your home State they have to charge you your sales tax....
No. Handlebar Motor Sports in Durango. They don't have any dealers in NM. However, I would bet selling bikes to NM residents is a common act for them, so they had it down.

 
I agree about your definition of OTD price AdamK. Price comparisons don't mean much and get very foggy when you start adding in variables like sales tax, licensing, extended warranties, or service contracts. When I want to know how much someone paid, I only want to know price and if they tack on a shipping or setup costs.
And it becomes virtually meaningless when a trade-in is involved. The dealer will gladly write up a sale for a really low price if they know they can make up the difference on the sale of the trade-in. Financing can also muddle the process as they can make money on that too.
You really need to know what your trade-in is worth to make the right deal. Come armed with current NADA rough and normal trade in values (they change monthly) and try to strike a deal somewhere in between. That's what I did with my '13 and I feel that the $16,067 deal I got for the '16 ES was legitimate even if it stood alone considering the trade-in amount I got was fair.

 
When I bought my bike in Colorado, they charged me NM sales tax, during the sale. Then they handed me a check for the tax amount so I could give it to MVD here in NM when I got back and submitted for my plates. Super easy! As said, I would ask before I buy!
You financed the purchase? What the dealer did was allow you to finance the sales tax.

 
When I bought my bike in Colorado, they charged me NM sales tax, during the sale. Then they handed me a check for the tax amount so I could give it to MVD here in NM when I got back and submitted for my plates. Super easy! As said, I would ask before I buy!
You financed the purchase? What the dealer did was allow you to finance the sales tax.
Yeah, I'm very aware of that. You don't do that where you live? Most don't do it with private party used car sales, but unless someone specifically asks to pay the tax seperately, it gets rolled into the deal.

We just bought a brand new F250 4x4 crew cab. Maybe you do, but I don't have the tax amount for that purchase, just laying around, so it's in the deal.

 
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