Avoid a tire changer (Am I out of my mind ?)

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Find that Yellow Thing on Ebay for less..... for lube, Ru-Glyde is a good one for rubber. Spray on, it will dry in about 10 minutes or so and prevents tire rotation on the rim. Re-wet as necessary. I think it was $10 for a something less than a gallon container. Will do me all my days I expect.

 
Oh, BTW, although we can always offer opinions on tire changers...you will need a specialist for the second part of your question.

I could provide an opinion, but I'm not licensed in that field.

 
Is the $345 CH-100 satisfactory for the FJR tires or is the CH-200 necessary?</p></blockquote>
Well, I'm not sure. The website was pretty clear that it should handle almost anything. There was a video on webbikeworld that showed it being used on what looked like a sport bike tire similar to an fjr.

But time will tell. If there are any issues, Ill post up my results.

I'm cautiously optimistic.
They use a post in the center to pry against when one pulls around the wheel the bar with nomar tip inserted in tire over rim. The CH-200 and "pro" models support that center post for prying against from above the wheel with nothing going through the wheel. The Cycle Hill model appears to run the post up through the wheel bearings.

 
Well, the cycle Hill arrived today. No time to unbox it yet.

I'll get into it tomorrow and post first impressions.

 
A couple of notes about the Cycle Hill Changer: You will need to go to the hardware store and buy a piece of solid steel rod to be used as the center pry bar. The pipes that they include for that function are too large a diameter to fit inside the wheel bearings.

Even if I crank the clamps down on the wheel as tightly as I think the mechanism will bear, the wheel may still slip in the spool shaped black delrin rim clamps when you are using the long lever to mount or dismount a tire. You can just loop a tie-down strap around one of the wheel spokes and one of the arms of the changer to keep it from spinning and you don't have to crank the clamps so hard.

 
A couple of notes about the Cycle Hill Changer: You will need to go to the hardware store and buy a piece of solid steel rod to be used as the center pry bar. The pipes that they include for that function are too large a diameter to fit inside the wheel bearings.
Even if I crank the clamps down on the wheel as tightly as I think the mechanism will bear, the wheel may still slip in the spool shaped black delrin rim clamps when you are using the long lever to mount or dismount a tire. You can just loop a tie-down strap around one of the wheel spokes and one of the arms of the changer to keep it from spinning and you don't have to crank the clamps so hard.
Well, I assembled mine and the quality is rather good ... Seems sturdy and the assembly was easy ... It is not a "commercial" grade product by any means but it looks to be appropriate for weekend warrior types like me ... Nothing lacking ...

Mine came with 3 different size center pry bars ... They fit through the bearings with no issue ... I wonder if they have responded to complaints and modified what they include ???

In any event, it looks to have everything that I need to do the job... Even came with a tub of tire lube paste and a spray bottle ... Not bad ...

Ill change a tire as soon as I get a day sunny enough to heat the T30 on my driveway ...

 
Ill change a tire as soon as I get a day sunny enough to heat the T30 on my driveway ...
Heatlamps...
...or tire warmers!
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--G

 
Mine came with 3 different size center pry bars ... They fit through the bearings with no issue ... I wonder if they have responded to complaints and modified what they include ???
Yes, you are correct. It does come with three sizes of "center bar". The two bigger ones are 1 1/16" and 7/8" pipes and will not fit in the FJR's wheel bearings. The little one is 1/2" solid steel. Here's 1000 words as to why you'll want to go out and buy a length of 5/8" steel rod (far right):

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I have been using my No-Mar for years now and highly recommend them. It is amazing how easy it is to change tires with it and without the worries of damaging rims. I have used it to change everything from dirt bike tires to the tires on my SUV. GT tires- no problem. Would never go back to spoons. All of my riding buddies bring their tires here for the changes. I'm in Maryland and WILL change tires for BEER !

 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Fred W" data-cid="1294500" data-time="1457789579"><p>

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="MrZappo" data-cid="1294458"><p>Mine came with 3 different size center pry bars ... They fit through the bearings with no issue ... I wonder if they have responded to complaints and modified what they include ???</p></blockquote>

<br />

Yes, you are correct. It does come with three sizes of "center bar". The two bigger ones are 1 1/16" and 7/8" pipes and will not fit in the FJR's wheel bearings. The little one is 1/2" solid steel. Here's 1000 words as to why you'll want to go out and buy a length of 5/8" steel rod (far right):<br />

<br />

<span rel='lightbox'><img src='https://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/FJWinNH/Pictures/Tire%20Changer/001.jpg' alt='Posted Image' class='bbc_img' /></span></p></blockquote

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Fred, are you talking about the rear wheel? I have the front off now and put one of the pipes right through it. No issues.

Haven't tried the rear though. I don't want to find out when in the middle of a change though.

Where did you get that 5/8 solid pipe?

 
I bought 2 of these clamps and use them to hold the beads in the vally and they work great. 12" E-Z Hold Medium-Duty Bar ClampModel Number: 33412 | Menards® SKU: 2441422

 
Fred, are you talking about the rear wheel? I have the front off now and put one of the pipes right through it. No issues.
Haven't tried the rear though. I don't want to find out when in the middle of a change though.

Where did you get that 5/8 solid pipe?
No, I'm talking about either wheel. The axles are smaller diameter than 7/8", which is the middle size bar (smaller pipe). The smallest bar (1/2") is both too short and too thin or soft. First tire I attempted I bent the thing with relative ease. On the rear wheel you can put the disk side down, which allows you to lower the demount bar to a more acute angle (close to the wheel) but on a front wheel the disk makes you maintain the mount/demount bar fairly high and far away from the wheel, which puts too much leverage on that skinny bar.

Picked up the 5/8" rod at Home Despot

 
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I have been looking at the No Mar options also. Anyone have a good idea to mount post? I can't drill it into the floor of my garage. My SUV has a spare tire on the back so... I doubt the hitch receiver mount option would work out well. I saw one guy online that screwed it to an oak pallet. I would like something more elegant than that. :) Maybe double up some 3/4 " Plywood ?? Thoughts from the guys who have the No Mar??

 
^^^^ I have my HF set up bolted to a piece of 3/4" plywood. No reason that a NoMar wouldn't work just as well, just make sure you have a (big) friend to help with tires!

Only drawback to using plywood is chasing the changer around the floor. A suitable piece of carpet would add some resistance to turning as you're putting the tire on. With two of us standing on the plywood it's pretty much a non issue though.

Just my $.02

--G

 
I've had my HF mounted to plywood for years...... 4x4 piece works well, go bigger if you want. The HF has channel irons on the base that are wide enough. You will want either the No-Mar hitch option or the support post (make your own?). If using the post, make the bottom plate perhaps 16" square. Another option is the drive-on support No-Mar has. Again, make your own if you are so inclined.

 
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Always finding tips in tire mounting threads.
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If I could find a cheap tire warmer I'd be happy. I almost think I could make something out of a few heating pads.

Anyway, I have a NoMar and a trailer so I mount my NoMar in the trailer when it's time and store it in the corner when it's not being used.

My trailer has a wood floor and made four 3x3 metal plates, holes in the center with nuts welded to them. then drilled two smaller 3/16 holes in the corners, drilled through the trailer floor and screwed the plates in the bottom. I keep the bolts in to keep mulch and what have ya from filling them up.

 
We're moving this year. My next garage will have an attic lift... DIY, of course. All that big stuff gets stored out of the way when not used.

 
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