wheatonFJR
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Visit the NoMar website and they will help you out with the cost straightaway....How much does that yellow thing cost? Looks like a good idea for when I'm doing tire changes solo.
Visit the NoMar website and they will help you out with the cost straightaway....How much does that yellow thing cost? Looks like a good idea for when I'm doing tire changes solo.
They use a post in the center to pry against when one pulls around the wheel the bar with nomar tip inserted in tire over rim. The CH-200 and "pro" models support that center post for prying against from above the wheel with nothing going through the wheel. The Cycle Hill model appears to run the post up through the wheel bearings.Well, I'm not sure. The website was pretty clear that it should handle almost anything. There was a video on webbikeworld that showed it being used on what looked like a sport bike tire similar to an fjr.Is the $345 CH-100 satisfactory for the FJR tires or is the CH-200 necessary?</p></blockquote>
But time will tell. If there are any issues, Ill post up my results.
I'm cautiously optimistic.
That hasn't stopped you in the past Wheatie.Oh, BTW, although we can always offer opinions on tire changers...you will need a specialist for the second part of your question.I could provide an opinion, but I'm not licensed in that field.
Well, I assembled mine and the quality is rather good ... Seems sturdy and the assembly was easy ... It is not a "commercial" grade product by any means but it looks to be appropriate for weekend warrior types like me ... Nothing lacking ...A couple of notes about the Cycle Hill Changer: You will need to go to the hardware store and buy a piece of solid steel rod to be used as the center pry bar. The pipes that they include for that function are too large a diameter to fit inside the wheel bearings.
Even if I crank the clamps down on the wheel as tightly as I think the mechanism will bear, the wheel may still slip in the spool shaped black delrin rim clamps when you are using the long lever to mount or dismount a tire. You can just loop a tie-down strap around one of the wheel spokes and one of the arms of the changer to keep it from spinning and you don't have to crank the clamps so hard.
Heatlamps...Ill change a tire as soon as I get a day sunny enough to heat the T30 on my driveway ...
...or tire warmers!Heatlamps...Ill change a tire as soon as I get a day sunny enough to heat the T30 on my driveway ...
Yes, you are correct. It does come with three sizes of "center bar". The two bigger ones are 1 1/16" and 7/8" pipes and will not fit in the FJR's wheel bearings. The little one is 1/2" solid steel. Here's 1000 words as to why you'll want to go out and buy a length of 5/8" steel rod (far right):Mine came with 3 different size center pry bars ... They fit through the bearings with no issue ... I wonder if they have responded to complaints and modified what they include ???
No, I'm talking about either wheel. The axles are smaller diameter than 7/8", which is the middle size bar (smaller pipe). The smallest bar (1/2") is both too short and too thin or soft. First tire I attempted I bent the thing with relative ease. On the rear wheel you can put the disk side down, which allows you to lower the demount bar to a more acute angle (close to the wheel) but on a front wheel the disk makes you maintain the mount/demount bar fairly high and far away from the wheel, which puts too much leverage on that skinny bar.Fred, are you talking about the rear wheel? I have the front off now and put one of the pipes right through it. No issues.
Haven't tried the rear though. I don't want to find out when in the middle of a change though.
Where did you get that 5/8 solid pipe?
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