First Oil Thread - Seriously

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It is, or so I thought, a relatively well known blend in these parts. Leebunyard was the first to make it known to me IIRC. Oh, and good to see ya oc, glad you made it over... :D

 
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Opinions is just that, Opinions means nothing to people that don't care.

I just change my oil regularly with the Yamaha oil and not worry about all the BS additives. :eek:

Strangely enough the same guys that feel a higher octane in fuel is worthless feels the extra oil additive in oil makes a world of difference. :angry:

Stick to a regular schedule and don't abuse the bike and it can serve you for many years to come without any issues, except the tick maybe. Oh No, the dreaded tick post!

Dam, this is taking way to long to get my post number up, is there a way to transfer our post count over from the FJR100 site? :lol:

 
@04FJR4ME - I'm still waiting for you to fix your avatar. :rolleyes:

I'm with you on the just change it bit. I don't believe in extended change periods due to synthetic oils. 4k is a little short though, especially considering the 6k interval everyone else gets in their manuals. Mostly I split the difference.

The reason the STP sounds interesting to me is becasue I'm useing the Rotella oil and have noticed it gives a slightly less smooth shift than Yama 20-40. The MX4T moto synth gave a very smooth shift, but I'm not always going to go looking for that $8/quart oil.

As has been said before, do what makes you happy. Some opinions are based in experience and examination of engine parts over periods of use. Others are more subjective and based only on a lack of known problems or "feel". choose wisely. ;)

@Radman - First time I've read about the STP blend, though I have read about other blends being used. I need to change the oil anyway, so maybe I'll give it a try and see how it feels to me.

 
Just to throw another log on the fire........ what is the deal with Mobile 1 MX4T 10W40 4 Cycle Fully Synthetic Motorcycle Oil? Just hype, too expensive, other stuff is better, what? I found it at Wal-Mart in a little motorcycle section off to the side in automotive, not with the other motor oils! About $6.00/qt. or so. This seems to be a subject with a lot of good information. I agree that changing your oil on a regular basis is more important than exactly what type of quality oil you use. But why not figure out what is the best. I have heard good things about the oil additive potion that Radman uses.

 
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Where do you guys buy the rotella oil? I'd like to give it a try but don't want to pay out the arse at a Shell gas station if possible.

Todd

 
WalMart carries the Rotella Synthetic, as well as the Mobil1 5-40 diesel I'm running now. Good news on this stuff. Did not add STP to this, so it's a 5w cold. Some may think 5w is to low, and it's definitely not the 20w cold that Yamaha recomends. However, a 5 weight will get to lubricating all the goodies much faster than a 20w on a cold start, this is way important, as much of the wear takes place at start up-a 5w will help reduce this. It is a 40w hot, as recomended for this engine. I have had it at 4 bars in traffic on 95 degree temps, and Frank is quiet as a mouse at this temp, so it's doing its job as far as hot protection also. The Mobil is a true Synthetic, whereas the Rotella is a semi-syn, so I feel a little better knowing Franks getting the full benefits a true syn can offer. It's non-energy conserving, the shifting is as good as the blend offered, a little more expensive, but not near as spendy as the moto specific stuff. So far, so good. And, I gained at least 35 horse pressures with the switch. ;)

 
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Thanks. I'll check the local Wally world and see what they've got.

Todd

 
I just switched over to Mobil 1 15/50 EP Gold Cap on my 1300 mile 05 FJR.

I noticed instant benefits.

Better shifting, much cooler running.

I use nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic products in my vehicles which include the FJR, a Jag XJR, and a Mustang GT.

If they made Mobil 1 coolant I would use it! LOL!

 
as well as the Mobil1 5-40 diesel I'm running now
Radman,

when you talked about the 5w-40 diesel, I assume you were talking about the Delvac 1 Synthetic. Or did you talk about the Mobil-1 SUV/Truck Synthetic 5w-40? Can you clarify?

I wanted to change to the Rotella 5W-40 but they had nothing left at the local Walmart. But they had both of the Mobil 1 synthetics that I mention above. I would assume they are equal to the Rotella.

Thanx

 
Don't leave amsoil out. Most of you minnesotans should have heard of it by now.

 
I use the Delvac 1 now. Helluva deal at the local Walmart ($15.00 per four litre jug). I have it on good authority that Devac 1 is the same stuff as M1 SUV 5w-40, by the way. Completely interchangeable. Anyway, the machine works very well with the Delvac 1.

John.

 
Regarding the article that was posted.

While the writer may be a chemist he failed to leave out a few Engineering facts. He stated that thicker motor oil provides the best protection. (20w50 is better than 10w40 in a hot climate).

One must remember that a high revving inline 4 has its oil supply system designed much differently.

A lugging V-twin has much larger oil supply system than your typical inline 4 and can handle the thicker oil more efficiently. Bearing tolerances are also much larger on something like a V-twin and require a thicker volume of oil to fill up the void between surfaces. Sort of the reason also that V-twins can use hydraulic lifters.

A high revving inline 4 has smaller oil supply lines but nature of the thing requires that more oil be circulated faster. Bearing tolerances are much closer so a thinner layer of oil between the moving parts is required (hence 10w40 is required here & not 20w50) Because of the much faster internal parts movement, inline 4's can't use hydraulic lifters (you would not be able to keep them pumped up fast enough at 12,000 rpm) You would not get suitable oil circulation in an fast revving inline 4 with oil too thick.

This is why racers will use the thinnest oil possible. (But again, they don't require long life out of their engines)

On the original question of 10w40 versus 20w40.

To make 10w40 versus 20w40 in regular oil, the manufacturer must add more Polymer’s to the base stock. This in turn makes the oil easier to break down.

In synthetic oils this is not so much of a difference as the base stock is much more consistent, and it is much easier to design weights.

So (and this is a big if)

Is 20W40 than 10w40? Most engine wear occurs on start-up so you have a double edged sword here. The 10w40 would be much better preventing wear at start-up. The 20w40 would prevent wear at peak operating temperatures (depending on the day). However this is all thrown out the window, because you would now have to depend on the flashing rates of each oil brand, Polymer breakdown, etc. etc.

I use motorcycle specific synthetic 10w40, and I use the brand that has the best breakdown results in independent tests. (I stress independent tests, and not the ones that were paid for by the said oil company. I don't use Amsoil for this reason)

 
Since I've never participated in an oil thread before........ :rolleyes:

It's interesting that Yamaha discontinued the 20 40 and now sells 15 50 syn oil and a 10 50 semi syn oil. They note on their website the 15 50 offers the highest level of protection.

A couple of years ago I found the Jaso specs online and the only spec a diesel oil didn't meet to be Jaso certified was the percent ash. Jaso is 1% or less and most diesel oils run about 1.4%. Based on this I've been using diesel oils, with no problems.

 
Rad is right about all the problems with 10W40 oils in the past. To get the viscosity spread between "10" and "40" required a much higher concentration of viscosity improvers than most other combinations of multi-vis oils. The viscosity improvers of the day....back in the 70's and 80's.....were relatively poor quality. They were not synthetic and would break down in high temp areas (like the ring lands) and stick the rings. They were not recommended oils by any manufacturer but much was sold as it was the "premium" high tech oil of the day. Much has changed. The problems with the VI improvers in the SF oils was recognized and pretty much corrected with the API SG service classification validation tests. Certainly any oil of SH and later API performance grades has viscosity improvers that are synthetic and would not likely cause a problem with ring belt deposits. The change was seen in the sequence 3E performance requirements from API as that test would caue the ring belt deposits. The temperature and time-at-temperature for the SF and SG (and later) oils was changed significantly to weed out poor performance VI packages. Any VI package that will pass SG and later will be a synthetic and not cause ring belt deposits.

Fear of 10W40 oils persists to this day, though. I myself still do not like them due to the high levels of viscosity improvers but the fact is that they are highly unlikely to cause any sort of problem due to the high quality of the VI package and the stringent high temp deposits testing mandated by the latest API specifications. I wouldn't be afraid to use a 10W40 oil if I had to but I still wouldn't recommend one. Old fears die hard!!

One proof of the quality of the viscosity improvers these days is the emergence of multivis diesel oils. Diesels will immediately weed out any poorly performing VI package with ring belt deposits. Until the early 90's there were no multi-vis diesel oils approved by Cat or Cummins, etc. The only exceptions were some 10W30 type diesel oils for very very cold weather. All the basic diesel oils avoided VI's like the plague. Today the Rotella/Delvac/Delo oils meet ALL the API diesel specifications as 15W40 oils clearly indicating that the VI package is very very robust.

Nice to see Skyway posting about oils. Any chance of an update on the fuel cell status while he's at it....????

 
Nice to see Skyway posting about oils. Any chance of an update on the fuel cell status while he's at it....????
Not likely. This thread is a 2 1/2 year old resurection! That has got to be some kind of record.

The Skyway posts are dated June, 2005.

 
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:blink: DUH..............didn't even notice the dates............. :blink: :blink:
 
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Just to throw another log on the fire........ what is the deal with Mobile 1 MX4T 10W40 4 Cycle Fully Synthetic Motorcycle Oil? Just hype, too expensive, other stuff is better, what? I found it at Wal-Mart in a little motorcycle section off to the side in automotive, not with the other motor oils! About $6.00/qt. or so.

Anyone care to comment on this Motorcycle specific Mobile One? I've been buying it for a year or so but it never gets discussed much. I wondering why it doesn't come up on these oil threads?

 
Anyone care to comment on this Motorcycle specific Mobile One? I've been buying it for a year or so but it never gets discussed much. I wondering why it doesn't come up on these oil threads?
Try this little gem: another oil comment

Also, try google. (MX4T site:fjrforum.com) There is a multitude of posts on the subject. I didn't read through them all, though.

 
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