Cool deal, yeah money is cutting into my shoptime. :angry2: I want to work on it so badly but there's almost nothing I can do right now without certain parts I need to buy... Oh well, I have some powder coating jobs coming so shouldn't be long...
FJ1300RT Reverse Trike Concept
- Thread starter nofreeride
- Start date
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nofreeride
Well-known member
What did you do to bypass the tipover switch, just leave it disconnected?Ok, yeah if you are routing air around with a scoop and the fan/radiator are in the same place then that makes sense.
Oh on another note, not sure if you thought about this or not but when I was test driving and taking hard corners the bike would die for a second and then kick back on. At first I thought I was running out of gas because I was almost empty but after filling up and it still happening I realized it's the tilt sensor.
The bike doesn't lean in corners anymore and it's throwing the sensor over to one side and killing the ignition. So you'll need to remove your sensor and bypass it.
nofreeride
Well-known member
I did some searching on the internet, but found nothing specific on FJR. Some Yamaha, Suzuki, and Honda owners have somehow filled the switch with silicone to prevent the switch mechanism from moving. Others suggested measuring the signal to the ECU and putting in a resistor.I actually havent taken much time to figure that out quite yet so I'm not sure. I was going to ask you if you knew a way...
I tried disconnecting it but the bike won't even start so we'll have to bypass it somehow...
The FJR manual does not talk about the "lean angle cut-off switch", only shows it in diagrams.
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nofreeride
Well-known member
Here you go:
Disable the lean angle sensor
Once in awhile you do find something useful on the forums.
Disable the lean angle sensor
Once in awhile you do find something useful on the forums.
ionbeam
2 FUN
Gen I has the Lean Angle Sensor under the driver's seat. The Gen II has the LAS in the nose assembly. Unplug the LAS and jumper the Black/Blue wire to the Yellow/Green wire.
The ECU recognizes 0.4 to 1.4 volts as Upright and 3.8 to 4.2 volts as Overturned. There is an outside chance that when the ECU sees 0.0 volts on the Yellow/Green wire after being jumpered it will see that as an error condition. If this is the case it is time to glue the pendulum in place or I can calculate a pair of resistor values that will simulate the the LAS and fake out the ECU.
The ECU recognizes 0.4 to 1.4 volts as Upright and 3.8 to 4.2 volts as Overturned. There is an outside chance that when the ECU sees 0.0 volts on the Yellow/Green wire after being jumpered it will see that as an error condition. If this is the case it is time to glue the pendulum in place or I can calculate a pair of resistor values that will simulate the the LAS and fake out the ECU.
nofreeride
Well-known member
Thanks Alan. Did that info come from the manual somewhere that I just didn't look hard enough? Or did you get it somewhere else?
ionbeam
2 FUN
I believe that the info is from the Gen I manual in the Fuel Injection troubleshooting section. I can't remember my phone number, can't tell you the name of the street a 1/4 mile away and can't remember the name of the person I was just introduced to, but do remember useless bits of info like this :dribble: I'm on my way out to remove another foot or so of snow from my two driveways, I'll take a peak in the FSM when I'm done.
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Oddly enough I'm the exact same way... lol I forget your name by the time I let go of shaking your hand... :blink:
ionbeam
2 FUN
Puff, wheeze, gasp and minor heart stress later the snow is all relocated.
The LAS info is indeed in the FI section because it is read at diAG code 08 and described there. In my early release FSM it is described in some text detail in the General Information section, page 1-16. Later FSMs incorporated the ABS into one manual so the page numbering may be different.
The LAS info is indeed in the FI section because it is read at diAG code 08 and described there. In my early release FSM it is described in some text detail in the General Information section, page 1-16. Later FSMs incorporated the ABS into one manual so the page numbering may be different.
nofreeride
Well-known member
This is pretty close to the final design. I am currently leaning towards a dark blue with silver tubes. I picked up the body panels this week. It is smooth FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) that will be screwed on to the diagonal supports and to tabs welded to the inside edge of the tubes.
Got the brake and clutch lines run and bled. No leaks!
Need to finish the wiring and I can actually start it up.
Waiting on the coilovers, which have been on backorder since before Christmas.
I know, PICTURES!
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nofreeride
Well-known member
Front Brake Line
Brake Master Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder
Pedals and clutch pushrod
Pedals and brake pushrod
Throttle pedal and cable
Wiring and Brake proportioning valve
Rear brake line
Clutch Slave cylinder
Shifter - rear (I already fixed the too extreme angle of the cable in this shot)
Shifter - front (Will be a little shorter, with a motorcycle handgrip.)
Steering column
Steering and left hand control pod
Dash panels
Lights and mirror
The 2-inch center tunnel carries the wiring extensions, the rear brake and clutch hard lines, the throttle cable and shifter cable.
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Nice man! I see you also went with the marine push/pull cable for the shifter. Man that works so good and soooooo much easier than I had worried about early on because before I thought of that idea I was thinking I would have to do a bunch of linkages and rods etc. <_<
nofreeride
Well-known member
Thanks, Nitro. The cable I got was for an aftermarket auto trans shifter. Works great. Also got an extra long throttle cable and reused the (engine end) bits from the stock cable. A lot of time-consuming fussing with the controls for not much visual impact. Still have a lot of wiring to do...
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nofreeride
Well-known member
1. Looks good!
2. Is developing a reverse gear.
Alanstrike
Member
What did you do to bypass the tipover switch, just leave it disconnected?Ok, yeah if you are routing air around with a scoop and the fan/radiator are in the same place then that makes sense.
Oh on another note, not sure if you thought about this or not but when I was test driving and taking hard corners the bike would die for a second and then kick back on. At first I thought I was running out of gas because I was almost empty but after filling up and it still happening I realized it's the tilt sensor.
The bike doesn't lean in corners anymore and it's throwing the sensor over to one side and killing the ignition. So you'll need to remove your sensor and bypass it.
Alanstrike
Member
Sorry guys - fat fingers and small buttons--- why do you need to disable lean sensor on a trike just mount it as standard and all ok i would think - Alan from Aust
Alanstrike
Member
Sorry again missed your reply on cut out on corners - in 3000kms of very hard testing on track and road never had a problem with cut out even on the track - better look at other problems maybe - Alan
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