Front Bearings

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Seems $60 is cheaper than the cost of shop time for someone else to do it for you. Consider the puller and investment and that you've saved total costs on the first job that will accumulate on following jobs if they come up again.
That's good advice in general (and it's why I ordered the puller set myself before I need it) but IIRC in this specific case twistedcricket is working on his bike away from home and probably wants to get the new bearings in today, so he doesn't have time to wait for delivery. There's no question the only way it's probably going to get done today is with a drift. Sounds like what he really needs is someone who has replaced bearings before to help him out. I'm roughly 110 miles from Eau Claire and don't feel like riding in the chilly weather today without heated grips or I would volunteer to help him out.
I missed updating that part. The bike is home. I borrowed a friends truck to get it hauled back.

I didn't want to spend $60 on something I'd probably only use one time. As someone else has said; this shouldn't be necessary very often. I bet there are a lot of '05s with original bearings.

I'll have to figure something out today. My riding season is winding down quickly and I wanted to get a few more rides in before having to winterize it. :(

 
I've replaced the front wheel bearings on my '05 twice, the second at about 83,000 miles. My hubby has around 50,000 on his and they've never needed replacing. I just replaced them for the first time on my FZ1 at 115,000 miles, and only because I was giving her a thorough going through. There are just way too many factors to consider with bearings to say what is and isn't normal outside of spectacular failures, but when they need replacing they need replacing.

I've used the drift method for years without screwing up a rim (but with a fair spattering of curse words and hammer-damaged fingers) using the tips everyone has given you here. I finally sprang for the proper puller because I simply could not get the FJR bearings out without it. There was no shoulder to get a bite on, and the spacer was held too firmly between the bearings to get any movement out of it. That has been my experience on all of the FJRs I've done wheel bearings on, but who knows - you may get lucky.

You can buy that 22mm from Pit Posse without buying the rest of the set. IIRC, shipping was a bit high but I was out the door around $18. I imagine you could find the driver (or a passable alternative) locally and save some cash over buying a whole kit. Going that way, you'll be in it for not much more than it would cost for me to ship mine both ways from Cali, and in about the same amount of time. For speed, I'm gonna say that a Yamaha shop is pretty much the only place you're gonna find someone with that size puller.

 
$60.85 shipped from PitPosse (kit + 22mm)

dammit

Thanks for the help. If this is the best method to get those little *******s pulled I'll be happy....and I'll have a set of tools for someone to borrow later.

 
You can add a 22mm adapter to this set for $10.pitposse

Maybe it will or can be modified to work.
Thanks for the link and info. At 114k I'll probably need to replace the bearings at some point, though they feel fine now. Just ordered the 22mm puller and a large bar as separate parts rather than buying the entire kit. $29.85 shipped.

 
"but I've never liked whacking at bearings off center and this should allow them to come out nice and straight."

If you TIG weld a washer, or a piece of rebar to the inner race, it's rather amazing how fast you can bash those suckers out.

 
If you TIG weld a washer, or a piece of rebar to the inner race, it's rather amazing how fast you can bash those suckers out.
I borrowed my brother's wire feed welder once in order to remove the lower steering stem bearing inner race on my Concours. I just welded a big washer to the inside of the race and whacked it out with a rod from the top.

 
The disturbing thing is that you'll play with welders before buying a relatively cheap bearing puller. Oh sure you say, welders have other uses too! :unsure:

 
The disturbing thing is that you'll play with welders before buying a relatively cheap bearing puller. Oh sure you say, welders have other uses too! :unsure:
Any day I get to play with a welder is a good day.I don't pull bearings enough to buy a tool, but I do weld enough to be "creative". ;)

 
i was able to change my order this morning with pitposse - swapped the entire kit for the large rod

EDIT: I should note that I called and was only prompted for one option to press (menu of 4 options) and was almost immediately connected with someone. While she couldn't help (I placed the order Sunday and they were almost ready to ship it this morning), she transferred me to someone who understood what I wanted to do. I received an updated order email with the correct items in 5 minutes and an email with a UPS tracking number in 10min. So far, a great experience!

 
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Seems like if you wack your front wheel enough have possible bearing damage, wouldn't checking the front wheel itself out for possible damage come first? Seems like the tire or wheel would be damaged before the bearings would. Hope you get it ironed out. PM. <>< :unsure:

 
Cuidado... -- when you see a 'hammer' in use on (or, even in close proximity to) a motorcycle you should, maybe?, have second thoughts... :eek: :unsure:
Si como no.

I've had over 35 years experience with all sorts of percussive maintenance and know my way around precision tools (I have two lathes) so when I "whack" something with a "hammer" (one of about a half dozen different types I own) it's probably a little different from what happens when a guy who owns one hammer (claw type) "whacks" it. Don't get me wrong though, in my time I admit I've ruined a few things learning what and what not to do. YMMV.

PS I agree with the comment about checking the wheel for out-of-round, if you took a hit hard enough to ruin the bearings it's almost certain the rim is bent at least a little bit. If just the lip of the rim is bent but not where the bead seats, you may be fine to keep using it but it will look bent while spinning it. Had that happen to an SV650 wheel from hitting a huge pothole. Rim was bent at the lip only, but the bearings were fine.

 
******* fail;

Busted tool...busted the top part of the bearing...bearing didn't move.

P1000048.JPG


Didn't even us the BFH.

To the dealer I go I guess.

 
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Damn guy, that looks like you teed off on it. Gentle taps. Sorry it's being a PITA.

 
Damn guy, that looks like you teed off on it. Gentle taps. Sorry it's being a PITA.
I used the lightest hammer I own. It's from one of those cheap "homeowners" tool sets. I had to set it on the cement floor because putting it on plywood wasn't working...I wasn't throwing my weight into the hits either. I'd hit it, then tap it so that I wouldn't miss the rod...

I dunno...I'm going to call my favorite dealer in the morning. I could drop it off with them, but that's a two hour trip. There's a dealer close who has gotten better reviews than the "big" yamaha shop...I might go there if they're open on Saturdays.

eh...at least it's home I guess...it's getting cold so...riding season might be over :(

 
Favorite Dealer wants $120 (remove/replace my bearings, no additional parts). Hrm, I just ordered another 22mm bearing remover from PitPosse (shipping was almost as much as the tool, ouch).. $17.90 total. I'll try to carefully remove the other side. If that works, then I think a traditional bearing puller could get the busted bearing out.

I took a few days away from it to cool down and not think about it. Helps that it's 34deg outside :)

 
Favorite Dealer wants $120 (remove/replace my bearings, no additional parts). Hrm, I just ordered another 22mm bearing remover from PitPosse (shipping was almost as much as the tool, ouch).. $17.90 total. I'll try to carefully remove the other side. If that works, then I think a traditional bearing puller could get the busted bearing out.
I took a few days away from it to cool down and not think about it. Helps that it's 34deg outside :)
Once you broke the inner race it should be easy to move the spacer aside enough to get a drift on the inner race of the opposite side bearing. Get a hot air gun from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight for $10 - $15 and get the wheel good and hot and the bearings will practically fall out.

 
I'm assuming you hit it with some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench penetrating oil beforehand?

There's no circlip holding the bearing in that I can see in an exploded parts view, that's some tuff sledding, hope you can get it out.

FWIW, canned air for blowing dust off can be used as freeze spray if you invert the can while spraying it, so if you can warm the rim a bit and hit the outer race with the freeze spray it might loosen the fit while whacking it.

 
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