Front Bearings

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'm using a cutoff wheel on the dremel. I don't have a lot of bits for it and no money to spend on it right now....
That sucks. Perhaps let it sit until you can spring for a small cylinder stone or carbide bit?
Yeah, the roommate pays rent soon. I'll wait until then to get a bit...if that doesn't work, I'll ship it or take it somewhere....

 
Take it slow, wear some safety glasses, (or a face shield/goggles). Don't stress too much about nicking the wheel. As previously mentioned, 80% or more will support the new bearing fine. Worst case, there are ways of dealing with voids and repairing any damage.

 
What the hell, Paul?!

First we had all the carp hit the fan before SFO, and now this?!

Did ya piss someone off somewhere along the line and they gave you bad juju or somethin?!

I'd help if I could but all I do is send my sympathies.

 
Take it slow, wear some safety glasses, (or a face shield/goggles). Don't stress too much about nicking the wheel. As previously mentioned, 80% or more will support the new bearing fine. Worst case, there are ways of dealing with voids and repairing any damage.
+1 80% contact is usually plenty if you do tear it up some. And I usually use a cutoff wheel in my Dremel when cutting bearing races. Another combination would be to cut the races and also use the dry ice. Could make it brittle enough to be able to chisle it out.

Or send it to me, I'll fix it and press in the bearings too (I've got a press. Don't even TRY to get the bearings in straight without one)

 
Take it slow, wear some safety glasses, (or a face shield/goggles). Don't stress too much about nicking the wheel. As previously mentioned, 80% or more will support the new bearing fine. Worst case, there are ways of dealing with voids and repairing any damage.
+1 80% contact is usually plenty if you do tear it up some. And I usually use a cutoff wheel in my Dremel when cutting bearing races. Another combination would be to cut the races and also use the dry ice. Could make it brittle enough to be able to chisle it out.

Or send it to me, I'll fix it and press in the bearings too (I've got a press. Don't even TRY to get the bearings in straight without one)
That's three great offers from forum members (and the advice is always welcome). I had planned to cut a wooden disk just smaller than the outside race and use a wooden dowel to pound them back in...however, a press sounds more re-assuring. Is there a good press available through harbor freight? Maybe that would be cheaper than shipping my wheel all over :)

 
Or send it to me, I'll fix it and press in the bearings too (I've got a press. Don't even TRY to get the bearings in straight without one)
That's three great offers from forum members (and the advice is always welcome). I had planned to cut a wooden disk just smaller than the outside race and use a wooden dowel to pound them back in...however, a press sounds more re-assuring. Is there a good press available through harbor freight? Maybe that would be cheaper than shipping my wheel all over :)
You're not going to get it back in with a wooden disk. Maybe with a solid 2.5x2.5x6 inch block of very hard oak. A few times I have had success turning a piece of very high molecular weight engineering plastic in a lathe to make a bearing driver, where the OD is a little smaller than the OD of the bearing, and with a recess cut in the face to avoid hitting the inner race.

If the inner race doesn't stick out axially past the outer race, I sometimes get bearings started with a big rectangular chunk of aluminum which I lay on top of the bearing and CAREFULLY tap on with a ball pein hammer. Once the bearing is close to bottoming out I use a large socket or some other round piece that is slightly smaller than the OD of the bearing to tap it all the way into place. None of this is a good idea if you are inexperienced and can't afford the cost of learning the hard way.

 
Anyone able to measure the diameter of the front tire? Too cold for me to ride today.

Twistedcricket we have a press but it is only 24 inches across??? It is a very busy week for me but maybe we can hook up?

Also when we drive in bearings we usually use a socket that is as big as the outer race to drive it in.

 
Anyone able to measure the diameter of the front tire? Too cold for me to ride today.Twistedcricket we have a press but it is only 24 inches across??? It is a very busy week for me but maybe we can hook up?

Also when we drive in bearings we usually use a socket that is as big as the outer race to drive it in.
With inflated tire, it's just under 23" in diameter. So a 12" depth arbor press would also do the job.

 
i'm going to try the item listed in the link I posted above...should have time this week...hopefully

EDIT: tried the carbide tip. Got to the outermost part of the bearing and it's as if I've found kryptonite. Didn't spend a lot of time on it as I had all of my wisdom teeth forcibly extracted from my skull yesterday...work today was interesting :)

I'll try the carbide tip again later...when the whirring/grinding doesn't annoy me..

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Tylenol codeine, hell! I got demerol when they pulled (actually, broke up and extracted the pieces) the four I had. Now I know it is possible to dream while you're awake.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I can't think of words which would adequately describe just how ******* pissed off I am at this right now...

P1000051.JPG


P1000053.JPG


P1000057.JPG


P1000058.JPG


carbide tip just wore it down to a point and made a nice shiny surface...it worked to some extent...the cut-off wheel...

**** this...

 
I've seen alot worse than that, the grinding stone will cut the hardened bearing race but it does take some

time. 4 or 5 stones is still cheaper than a wheel. My offer still stands as that would be cheaper than a wheel

too I would think. I have a die grinder a bit beefier than the dremel. It is not a fun or quick job but doable.

So far the damage isn't bad certainly repairable, take it slow and easy.

 
I hate to be stupid, but doesn't the spacer come out the end where you've already removed the bearing? Once it's out, you should be able to get to the back of the busted bearing with a long thin punch, shouldn't you?

 
Top