Going to the Dark Side

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Oh Yeah, and I'll just betcha you have been a real ray of sunshine today yourself: Tu Puto Perro - Manatee Molester!!!
Glad to see you got back safely, you bastardo viejo flatulento. :D
Anytime you go on a 4day ride with Fairlaner and then drink in a pub with Old Michael and come out of both experiences alive-makes for a really great outlook on life!

 
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A little more time to post now. The proven performer for the price is the Bridgestone Potenza 019G Grid. $101-130 or so depending on local or Tire Rack. It's a 30k+ tire on the bike, easily. The cheaper tires like the Sumitomo don't actually seem to be that bad on the bike from results so far, but none of us have had the chance to actually compare multiple tires on our own bikes yet.

The Aroura H107 has proven itself well also, though I'm not sure what mileage Catfish has on it now. The BFG that BugR is running has done well for him.

The Yokohama S-4 has been a bit of a disappointment in longevity, but reports to handle well and have no other issues.

Reading a recent copy of 'Inside Track' I see a few interesting tires that might make possible good choices for the FJR. From the magazine, in no particular order:

BFG g-Force Super Sport A/S - a symetrical tread design rated at 460 AA A (Hi Performance All-Season)

General Tire AltiMAX HP - 440 A A (Grand Touring All Season)

Kumho eco Solus HM KR22 - 800 A B (Standard Touring All Season) Marketed as a high mileage tire. I can't help but wonder what that could translate to on the FJR.

Pirelli P4 Four Seasons - 620-760 A A-B (Std Touring All Season)

Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 - 360-480 A-AA A (High and Ultra High Performance All Season)

Yokohama AVID ENVigor - 560 A A (High and Ultra High Performance All Season) The S-4 was only rated 400, so this may prove to wear more in the 30k range for the FJR, but we won't really know until someone tries it.

 
A little more time to post now. The proven performer for the price is the Bridgestone Potenza 019G Grid. $101-130 or so depending on local or Tire Rack. It's a 30k+ tire on the bike, easily. The cheaper tires like the Sumitomo don't actually seem to be that bad on the bike from results so far, but none of us have had the chance to actually compare multiple tires on our own bikes yet.
The Aroura H107 has proven itself well also, though I'm not sure what mileage Catfish has on it now. The BFG that BugR is running has done well for him.

The Yokohama S-4 has been a bit of a disappointment in longevity, but reports to handle well and have no other issues.

Reading a recent copy of 'Inside Track' I see a few interesting tires that might make possible good choices for the FJR. From the magazine, in no particular order:

BFG g-Force Super Sport A/S - a symetrical tread design rated at 460 AA A (Hi Performance All-Season)

General Tire AltiMAX HP - 440 A A (Grand Touring All Season)

Kumho eco Solus HM KR22 - 800 A B (Standard Touring All Season) Marketed as a high mileage tire. I can't help but wonder what that could translate to on the FJR.

Pirelli P4 Four Seasons - 620-760 A A-B (Std Touring All Season)

Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 - 360-480 A-AA A (High and Ultra High Performance All Season)

Yokohama AVID ENVigor - 560 A A (High and Ultra High Performance All Season) The S-4 was only rated 400, so this may prove to wear more in the 30k range for the FJR, but we won't really know until someone tries it.
.....and once again, my choice of the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus - 500 AA A (Ultra High Performance All-Season) gets ignored. Yet everybody LOVES their Pilot PR2s.

Bastards!

Sniff. :unsure:

BTW, that Kumho eco Solus HM KR22 with the 800 UTQG rating should be good for about 100,000 miles on a motorcycle. :dribble:

 
.....and once again, my choice of the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus - 500 AA A (Ultra High Performance All-Season) gets ignored. Yet everybody LOVES their Pilot PR2s.
Bastards!
Lack of data hoser. I like the specs, you like the ride, so far, but longevity is as yet unknown. It's the only dual compound tire being used at the moment, (that I'm aware of). Dual compound for a CT means harder rubber on the outsides, softer in the center, however, the harder compound is still softer than the moto compounds. :blink:

 
My Dunlop Direzza DZ101 (300 AA) shipped today, will keep you posted. It had a "New" star on the Tire Rack page, so apparently it's a new model tire. Kewl.

A Pirelli P6 at 500 AA would have been only 10 bucks more, but I like the gatorback tread pattern on the Dunlop for water evacuation, since with the Feej as my only ride, I will be riding in the rain from time to time. I think with the load on the tire being so much lighter than it would be on a car that aquaplaning would be a real problem with a lesser tread pattern. I just feel better with a better water pump on the wheel.

 
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My Dunlop Direzza DZ101 (300 AA) shipped today, will keep you posted. It had a "New" star on the Tire Rack page, so apparently it's a new model tire. Kewl.
A Pirelli P6 at 500 AA would have been only 10 bucks more, but I like the gatorback tread pattern on the Dunlop for water evacuation, since with the Feej as my only ride, I will be riding in the rain from time to time. I think with the load on the tire being so much lighter than it would be on a car that aquaplaning would be a real problem with a lesser tread pattern. I just feel better with a better water pump on the wheel.
I look forward to seeing your reports. Each manufacturer is allowed to rate their own tires, but I have doubts that a 300 rated tire will last much longer than 20k. My Dunlop car tire experience on cars is that they wear faster than their ratings would suggest. You will have to tell us what really happens.

 
My Dunlop Direzza DZ101 (300 AA) shipped today, will keep you posted. It had a "New" star on the Tire Rack page, so apparently it's a new model tire. Kewl.
A Pirelli P6 at 500 AA would have been only 10 bucks more, but I like the gatorback tread pattern on the Dunlop for water evacuation, since with the Feej as my only ride, I will be riding in the rain from time to time. I think with the load on the tire being so much lighter than it would be on a car that aquaplaning would be a real problem with a lesser tread pattern. I just feel better with a better water pump on the wheel.
I look forward to seeing your reports. Each manufacturer is allowed to rate their own tires, but I have doubts that a 300 rated tire will last much longer than 20k. My Dunlop car tire experience on cars is that they wear faster than their ratings would suggest. You will have to tell us what really happens.
I would expect to get 20K on a car from a 220 or 240 rated tire, based on my experience with the last sporty car I had, and that was autocrossed on a semi-regular basis. We'll see, though, right?

With the way I've been riding lately, i.e. just to work and the grocery store, not able to get out and about for lack of gas (and tire) money, I get over 10K on the BT-021 rear. I expect to get a LOT more than 20K on a car tire!

 
Tire is on the wheel, not yet on the bike. Twenty bucks to mount. Gotta balance it myself, and still got to make my brake arm.

Should be Dark by tomorrow at the latest!

 
Tire is on the wheel, not yet on the bike. Twenty bucks to mount. Gotta balance it myself, and still got to make my brake arm.
Should be Dark by tomorrow at the latest!
Then let the cat blood flow, Walt! Are Eric-OCfjr and RadioHowie-Steve going to do any Satanic ritual incantations by light of the waning moon? Any virgin sacrifices??

 
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It's DARK, not Satanic! But the virgin thing sounds OK. Depends on what they mean by "sacrifice." Nobody mentioned anything about it, though. . . . .

And you know you wanna be one, too!!!!!

 
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It's DARK, not Satanic! But the virgin thing sounds OK. Depends on what they mean by "sacrifice." Nobody mentioned anything about it, though. . . . .
And you know you wanna be one, too!!!!!
queen.GIF


I got yer virgin, right here!

"You have been assimilated!"

:lol:

 
Darth Walter here, reporting from north Florida!

Tire arrived at work this morning, took it and the wheel to my pals at Doc's Tire Repair in Lynn Haven, they didn't even bat an eye on mounting it. 20 bucks, 10 minutes, done.

Got it home after work, had at it. Of course I had to try the stock torque arm in its stock location, just in case it cleared. :) It cleared, but by the thickness of my smallest couple of feeler gauges! Not gonna run it that way:

01%20-%20Test%20fit.jpg


It occured to me to just move it so it fit on the outside of the mounting points rather than straddling them, but it doesn't clear the swing arm. It isn't by very much, but it interferes. So:

02%20-%20grinder.jpg


That's right, out comes the grinder! A couple minutes and a stone clogged with aluminum, and I have an intact torque arm I can reuse if I ever go back to the Light Side (or sell the bike.)

This is all it took to clear the swingarm!

03%20-%20grinding%20done.jpg


04%20-%20grinding%20done.jpg


05%20-%20grunged%20wheel.jpg


I was planning to insert the bolts from the wheel side and put the nuts inside the torque arm, so I could tighten them down without squishing the tangs on the torque arm. Problem is, the threads don't go far enough on the bolts for that. Just a couple millimeters, not even that. Dug around a bit, came up with this: a washer just the right thickness to make the washer and nut a fairly tight fit in the end of the torque arm:

06%20-%20washer%20and%20nut%20equals%20snug.jpg


By trial and error I had to get the assembly sequence right, because those bolts are hard to reach; as a matter of fact, the top one is dang near impossible with the wheel in place.

(The alternate plan of running the bolts from the same side, so you can reach them, doesn't work because they aren't long enough to reach all the way through, and I would have had to come up with a couple of spacers to keep from squshing the torque arm tangs.)

So: Set the top of the torque arm first, tighten it down but not fully, and have the arm sticking up as far as it can to clear the tire as it comes in.

Mount the wheel into the final drive.

Slide the axle through the swingarm, the spacer washer, the caliper, the big spacer, the wheel, and through the other side of the swingarm. Tighten the axle nut finger tight, not torqued yet.

Bolt the clip back onto the torque arm, the one the brake hose passes through to keep it off the tire.

Lower the torque arm into place. You kinda have to squeeze it past the brake hose, but it goes. Reach through and start the bolt at the bottom end of the torque arm.

Now from the left side of the bike reach through the wheel and tighten the bolt at the bottom of the torque arm. Apply a final tightening to the one at the top, too. I had to grip my hex key with a pair of pliers to get this done.

Torque the axle nut and the pinch bolt, tap the rear brake pedal to put the pads back against the disc, and it's done!!!

07%20-%20Darkside.jpg


Bottom end of the torque arm:

08%20-%20Looking%20down%20at%20caliper%20and%20torque%20arm.jpg


Looking through the wheel at the caliper, from the left side:

09%20-%20Looking%20through%20wheel%20at%20caliper.jpg


Top end of the torque arm:

10%20-%20torque%20arm%20clearance%20to%20tire.jpg


This one was supposed to show the clearance against the swingarm, but I can't quite get the camera in there good.

11%20-%20torque%20arm%20clearance%20to%20swingarm.jpg


As reported by others, the feel at just off upright is odd, but easy to accomodate. It's not much different than adjusting to a bike with a different rake than another. You kinda have to push it through that initial tip-in, and as it's coming back up, it really wants to center itself.

And although I didn't believe it when Howie told me, the bike will not stand up by itself on the tire!

Alright!! Assign me a number, already!!! And we need a signature icon!!!! Somebody artistic get on that, OK?

 
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Darth Walter here, reporting from north Florida!<snip>

Alright!! Assign me a number, already!!! And we need a signature icon!!!! Somebody artistic get on that, OK?
You are #18 Darth Walter.

No time now, but I'll update the FAQ later.

 
And we need a signature icon!!!! Somebody artistic get on that, OK?
here's something ya'll can shrink down... <hehehe, couldn't hep masef...>

head_up_ass.jpg
Can't use that one, it's the universal sign for 'Management'

Jeeze, if the following gets much bigger, I'm gonna have to get ordained. [now where did I put that comic book with the ad in the back for mail order ordainment?]

 
OK, this has gone on long enough, and it's Friday to boot.. :****:

I rode a 'dark side' bike recently... and frankly, honestly, if I didn't give a hoot about carving a corner, about having a bike feel like it should when you tip it into the corner with just a 'nudge' of body English; if all I rode was Interstate highways, or maybe lived in Kansas, I'd be all over the dark side like black on night time.

But... I live where roads are truly twisty, where off camber decreasing radius corners are normal, where it's truly fun to toss the side and top bag, run on a nearly empty tank then troll for fat old GSXR riders on 229, a truly glorious twisty road.

No, sorry, the dark side is not for me.

Carry on darkies... :****: :rofl:

It occurs to me that if the bike came stock with a car tire, Yamaha would sell 0.05% of current volume. It affects handling, feels weird, and is potentially unsafe, IMHO. How many dark side tires do you see in GP? There is a reason MC tires are 'round' and not 'flat'.

Don't get me wrong, for some, the $$$ saved in tire expenses is sufficient to warrant decreased handling and cornering. I get it, really. Iron Butt Rally riders would be prime candidates. Hours and hours of long boring straight to hell Interstates.. no thank you, give me some tight twisities or even high speed sweepers to 300+ of flat and boring. Just sayin'..

ps - I'll put my bike and body where my mouth is.. bring your darksider to my hood and we'll run some local roads.. soon you'll figure the expense in light-side tires is worth the money... :rolleyes:

hey - it's Friday right, and I'm in a TWN mood! :****:

You darksiders riled up yet? 4 hours before DogPileFriday is over :unsure: :rolleyes:

 
STFU Carver! We all don't live on roads designed by hopped up hippies!

Klown, parts of the U.S. are flatter than the top of yer pumpkinhead..

Logic would dictate that these "darksiders" are in fact money ahead running "flat" road tires.

Tell ya what.. I'll drag along me Schwinn Stingray next fall... 2.5 inch slick an all an we'll do some drag racin'

Meantime, Why don't ya go down to the wharf an visit with Howies cousin's..

Hugs, :)

:jester:

 
hey - it's Friday right, and I'm in a TWN mood! :****:
You darksiders riled up yet? 4 hours before DogPileFriday is over :unsure: :rolleyes:
Dood, yesterday was April 1st. :rolleyes:

And if I have to come out one more time and rescue you after you run out of gas trying to chase down 400 lb sport bikes again, then you're buying all the beer and single malt for the rest of 2010!

 
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