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Warchild, you pimp!!!

Thanks oh so much for the lip-licking "porn" shots. :eek: :eek:

OK. So PIAA 910s can be adapted. Does the stock FJR headlight selection switch retain low beam when the high beam is selected? If so, put me down for low beam only for the FJR and PIAA 910s. Else we'll need to cogitate a bit: I'm not pleased at the thought of a delay when going from high beam PIAAs to low beam FJR. Any thoughts there, Dale.

Best wishes.

 
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Does the stock FJR headlight selection switch retain low beam when the high beam is selected?
No, it does not.

When switching to high-beam, the 60-watt filiment fires off; the 55-watt (lo-beam) filiment shuts down.

f so, put me down for low beam only for the FJR and PIAA 910s. Else we'll need to cogitate a bit: I'm not pleased at the thought of a delay when going from high beam PIAAs to low beam FJR. Any thoughts there, Dale.
When I watched a similar H4 kit operate (last June, during the Utah 1088 Endurance rally, on a V-Strom), the delay was not overly lengthy at all; the lamp moves into the correct focal point position in about 1 to 1.25 seconds... pretty fast, actually. And note, it's not like the HID capsule had to light off and warm up to temp, because it was already lit and operating at full temp while it was acting as the lowbeam.

Nov 10 edit: As it turns out, this capsule does NOT physically relocate to achieve the proper focal point high-beam application. The "Low-Beam Only" is awesome, but the Hi/Lo Kit is not recommended.

 
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PIAA's are on my list. While I'm sure the 910's mounted by the mirrors work great, I'm looking for something more discreet. I would love any input so I can do both upgrades at once.

 
I'm looking for something more discreet.
HIDs are not discreet when on hi-beam.

You can NOT run these in high-beam mode while in the presence of other traffice. Trust me. Believe me.

For example: how discreet is this Blackbird's HID with its hi-beam selected?

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..... um, better put some sunglasses on before you see this... heh.....

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hid1.jpg


This is the same HID kit we're getting, but this gent got the very blingy 6000K temperature bulbs, which I DON'T recommend you get. You want the pure white (4300K) kit, not this 6000K version.

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Still, it's some bright shit, ain't it? :D This is why us LD riders use HID in the Nevada outback during our insane Endurance Riding events...
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When I watched a similar H4 kit operate (last June, during the Utah 1088 Endurance rally, on a V-Strom), the delay was not overly lengthy at all; the lamp moves into the correct focal point position in about 1 to 1.25 seconds... pretty fast, actually. And note, it's not like the HID capsule had to light off and warm up to temp, because it was already lit and operating at full temp while it was acting as the lowbeam.
Thanks, Warchild, but that is not quite what I was concerned about.

I was referring to the use of the Low Beam Only bulbs for the FJR head light, and same (H3) in the PIAA. If when the high beam is activated, the PIAAs fire off, and the FJR low beam shuts down, I'm concerned at turning off the PIAAs (high beam), and having to wait for the FJR low beam to then fire up. I'd prefer to have the HID low beam always on.

Viewing it that way, what are your thoughts?

 
I was referring to the use of the Low Beam Only bulbs for the FJR head light, and same (H3) in the PIAA. If when the high beam is activated, the PIAAs fire off, and the FJR low beam shuts down, I'm concerned at turning off the PIAAs (high beam), and having to wait for the FJR low beam to then fire up. I'd prefer to have the HID low beam always on.
Viewing it that way, what are your thoughts?
Okay, just to make certain I understand you correctly... are you saying you intend to install the "Lo-beam only" version of the HIDs in your stock headlights, and then the H3 version of the HIDs in your PIAA 910s?

If so, here's what I would do: wire the stock headlights to be *independant* of the hi-beam/lo-beam switch. To wit: wire them so the H4 HID relay is triggered by any switched source. Now your low beams are on all the time as long as the bike is running, regardless of the position of the hi-beam/lo-beam switch.

Now take the wire from the hi-beam connector (either the left or right, doesn't matter which), and use it as your signal wire to the PIAA 910 relay. Now your PIAAs fire off when you use your stock hi-beam switch, and extinguish when you set the factory switch to low-beam.

This will accomphlish what you desire: low-beam HIDs on constantly, and the PIAA 910s with HID H3s in them act as your de-facto high beams.

Sidebar: great minds think alike; because the above is *precisely* what I intend to do myself (except in my case, the PHIDs will be my "hi-beams").

 
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did I miss something? Since when did the low beam turn off.
The standard H4 bulb has two filiments inside the single bulb: one for low beam, one for high beam.

Depending on what the factory headlight switch is set to, one *OR* the other filiment is lit at any one time. But that are never lit together. To do so would mean each bulb is consuming 115 watts each.... which is too much.

 
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I just did get what he was saying. I get it know and it is a grand idea. I have been sheaching tonight for some 910's with now luck. Can some one give me a heads up?

not to be lazy here, but how many watts are we talking for both the H4 and H3 to run at the same time?

 
I just did get what he was saying. I get it know and it is a grand idea. I have been sheaching tonight for some 910's with now luck. Can some one give me a heads up?
How 'bout here

 
I thought the 910's were discontinued. I think for the price of 910's plus HID retrofit kit you might as well get the Phillips "Eyes of God". Thats what I plan on doing.

 
not to be lazy here, but how many watts are we talking for both the H4 and H3 to run at the same time?
Each HID setup consumes ~ 42 watts continuous; 35-watts for the HID capsule, and ~ 7 watts to keep the ballast humming. This is after the lamp is up to temp.

 
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I thought the 910's were discontinued. I think for the price of 910's plus HID retrofit kit you might as well get the Phillips "Eyes of God".
That would be my recommendation, most definitely.

Though the money angle is not insignificant.... consider the following:

If you already own a set of PIAA 910s, you can convert them to HID for $185 under this forthcoming gig. However, you are putting HID in a slightlty dated parabolic reflector housing. It will STILL be brighter then hell, no doubt, but it probably wouldn't be as optimal as it would be if you had a late-generation HID set-up like the PHIDs, or the Hellas, etc. But for only $185, oh, hell yeah, this would STILL be the way to fly.

If you DON'T currently own the 910s, you could score a new set for ~ $270-ish, throw in the HID conversion for $185, and have a killer HID setup for $455 total. Not too shabby, BUT.... for another $249, you could buy the PHIDs, which are designed from the ground up for HID, and enjoy all the benefits that XJRGuy was referring to regarding purpose-built HID lighting.

Though $699 for aux lights is some spendy shit, without a doubt. :(

Though if all this lighting saves you from a deer-strike only ONCE in the lifetime of the bike, it will have paid for itself. Perhaps by several orders of magnitude, if you were to have a bad crash as a result of the deer-strike.

 
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BUT.... for another $249, you could buy the PHIDs, which are designed from the ground up for HID, and enjoy all the benefits that XJRGuy was referring to regarding purpose-built HID lighting.
Though $699 for aux lights is some spendy shit, without a doubt.    :(
Uhhhh.....

I know where to get the PHIDs for $550, brand-spankin new. :rolleyes:

 
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Though if all this lighting saves you from a deer-strike only ONCE
Two weeks to late for that. :dribble:

Might I just add, you need to have the lights on too....

I would recomment NOT turning them off if your blasting through a small town at 2:30am....

 
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