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Since your problem is just slippage, you should be able to replace just the friction plates (if they are actually worn). The metal plates do not really wear. They can warp, but that will not result in slippage.

There is also a possibility that the problem is related to the tension spring or the way the clutch pack is assembled, not the thickness of the friction plates. You'd be best off getting in and having a look around before ordering the parts.

There is no need to dump the oil to get at the clutch. Just put the bike on the side stand and the oil level is below the clutch cover bottom. If you get lucky you won't even need a gasket. But even if you do tear it a little, just smear the old gasket with some O2 sensor safe silicone sealant and it will seal back up fine.

 
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...There is no need to dump the oil to get at the clutch. Just put the bike on the side stand and the oil level is below the clutch cover bottom....
Not even close.

Bike on centre stand, height from ground to oil level window approximately 12 inches

(click on image for larger view)



Height to bottom of clutch housing approximately 15.75 inches



And, if the bike's on its side-stand, the clutch is even higher relative to the oil.

 
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^^^

Clutch springs do get tired and could be at least partially responsible. Cheap and easy to replace while you are doing the other stuff.

 
LKLD ...

I've scanned through this whole thread so far and haven't seen the question asked --- have you messed with the clutch lever lately?

 
How many miles on this 13A? Seems weird the clutch is worn out by now unless it's been abused (slipped a lot to glaze it up)..... perhaps all that's needed is a good cleaning and give it the soak treatment. I'd do that and reassemble since it isn't a big job. Try it and if it still slips, replace the friction plates and spring.

 
I've not touched the clutch lever/adjustment.

The bike has just over 35,000 miles.

No racing, per se, but occasional ****-n-get through the gears. Always using the clutch.

Took it to work today. Got on it leaving the house, no issue. Later, with just a modest acceleration (leaving light, in traffic) it did it again. Is was ever so slight, maybe 3 or 4/10ths of a second.

No noise, grinding, clunking, etc.

 
Very little chance the clutch is worn out with those miles..... riding hard is OK, but slipping the clutch a lot is not...... by chance are you using an automotive type oil?

 
I would say, it does it when warm. Though I haven't the opportunity to test it in "lo" or temps below 140. It appears to happen after riding it for 15 minutes. Though this isn't a scientific finding, just pulling from memory.

I generally have clean starts, no steep inclines here in Flatistan. Shifting is normally done, no skipping of clutch engagement.

Yamalube since new.

 
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Yeah, I find it amazing that a clutch would be slipping from wear at 35K as well.

If it gets worse as it warms up, even if he's not messed with the lever, I still suspect a problem at the master cylinder not allow pressure to bleed off to the reservoir properly.

 
I would say, it does it when warm. Though I haven't the opportunity to test it in "lo" or temps below 140. It appears to happen after riding it for 15 minutes. Though this isn't a scientific finding, just pulling from memory.
I generally have clean starts, no steep inclines here in Flatistan. Shifting is normally done, no skipping of clutch engagement.

Yamalube since new.
OK. You posted while I was typing ;)

If it's fine at the house but starts slipping after a while I'd look at the master cylinder. It is weird that it doesn't slip in higher gears, but I'm wondering if it's just so minor you haven't noticed.

 
LKLD,What type of Yamalube you use?The 100% synthetic Yamalube can cause this problem.

Happened to me in the past the same thing not in the 2th but in the 4th,5th.

From when i used the Valvoline 4t semisynthetic 20w-50 or and the semisynthetic Yamalube the problem disappeared.

I don't know if was the same problem like yours but have a thought about it..

 
There is also a possibility that the problem is related to the tension spring or the way the clutch pack is assembled, not the thickness of the friction plates. You'd be best off getting in and having a look around before ordering the parts.
LKLD,

I agree. The clutch pack thickness is just a quick check, as I said. I'd expect it to be good there, at your mileage, but nothing else helps if the clutch pack is too worn. Since money is tight, don't order parts, unless you find the problem. You may have a weakened (cracked or burnt) clutch spring, or more likely, a glitch in the hydraulics, as the Old Guy said. If the master cylinder push rod is sticky (as in gunked up in it its' hole), that could cause your problem. Try working the clutch lever, and see if the rod pops out after the lever is back to the fully released position. The rod should follow the lever out smoothly each time, not pop out a split second later. It's easy to clean out that recess with brake cleaner, and maybe a blast of compressed air. New hydraulic fluid for the master cylinder should help, after cleaning. Is the clutch fluid now looking old and dark?

You should know, brake fluid (clutch fluid) can be contaminated by water from humidity, which causes rust and other problems. Replacing the fluids on a regular basis is good maintenance. Do not allow the container to sit open to the air for any unnecessary time, even just while working. Once the container sits open for enough hours, the fluid inside becomes hazardous in use. In brakes, water in the fluid can boil, and lock the brakes from any speed. New fluids (done on schedule) will prevent such problems.

No way I would believe that you need transmission repairs though, from what you have described. Good hunting!
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Cheers,

Infrared

 
Plus one on a good fluid flush and bleed before anything else. Something in there might be a bit sticky and holding things up for a split second.

 
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I use Yamalube Performance All Purpose 10-40 oil. Flushed the brake and clutch fluids a little less than a year ago. Still, I'll open it up and look at it and see if it looks contaminated.

I'll look at the clutch actuator too, for stickiness. If, someone can tell me where exactly to look. :grin:

 
I've not touched the clutch lever/adjustment.
The bike has just over 35,000 miles.

No racing, per se, but occasional ****-n-get through the gears. Always using the clutch.

Took it to work today. Got on it leaving the house, no issue. Later, with just a modest acceleration (leaving light, in traffic) it did it again. Is was ever so slight, maybe 3 or 4/10ths of a second.

No noise, grinding, clunking, etc.
That right there makes me think he's popping out of 2nd, unfortunately. If I were you LKLD, I'd not buy any clutch discs before cracking open the clutch and seeing if any of the frictions are out of tolerance, or there's any thing burned/smeared. I'd only buy a gasket for right now. I highly doubt you're going to find anything wrong with your clutch. As Fred mentioned earlier, a clutch will tend to fail in high gear first.

Perhaps you're not hearing the clunk associated with popping out of gear, it can be subtle because it's so quick. Almost like a double or triple misfire, a fraction of a second power transmission hesitation. Clutch slippage is very smooth and would be over a second or two. The reason it doesn't happen all the time is because there are three dogs in one gear and six pockets in another, so every time you shift into second gear you have a 1 in 6 chance of lining up the affected worn dogs & pockets.

Here's to hoping your clutch died though, that's a much easier fix. Otherwise I'd say you're looking at around $2k in repairs, parts and labor from a dealer.

OR, you know, winter is coming up, and you can take this on as a project to keep us all entertained. Particularly those up North with boots, mittens, and parked motorcycles.

 
I've not touched the clutch lever/adjustment.The bike has just over 35,000 miles.

No racing, per se, but occasional ****-n-get through the gears. Always using the clutch.

Took it to work today. Got on it leaving the house, no issue. Later, with just a modest acceleration (leaving light, in traffic) it did it again. Is was ever so slight, maybe 3 or 4/10ths of a second.

No noise, grinding, clunking, etc.
OR, you know, winter is coming up, and you can take this on as a project to keep us all entertained. Particularly those up North with boots, mittens, and parked motorcycles.
Thanks GoatBoy, but I got to get this fixed. Winter IS riding season for us down in Flatistani! :)

 
I've not touched the clutch lever/adjustment.

The bike has just over 35,000 miles.

No racing, per se, but occasional ****-n-get through the gears. Always using the clutch.

Took it to work today. Got on it leaving the house, no issue. Later, with just a modest acceleration (leaving light, in traffic) it did it again. Is was ever so slight, maybe 3 or 4/10ths of a second.

No noise, grinding, clunking, etc.
OR, you know, winter is coming up, and you can take this on as a project to keep us all entertained. Particularly those up North with boots, mittens, and parked motorcycles.
Thanks GoatBoy, but I got to get this fixed. Winter IS riding season for us down in Flatistani!
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Plenty of testing time. Just keep us posted what you find out.
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's a ****** video of my bike popping out of 2nd gear under hard acceleration. Shot from my old Droid 3 mounted to a Ram Bone, the quality is less than ideal. I also had to edit out the criminality, but you should still be able to hear the pop out at about 11 seconds into the video.
 
Well, that brings us full circle. So that ever so slight pause was because of gear cog and shifter fork issues? Was there grinding, noise, as others have mentioned, associated with it? I noticed that in your video, it seemed barely noticeable, where as with me it's much more noticeable, especially in duration.

 
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