Rear shock linkage maintenance

[Fred W]

What if we drill a 1/16" hole down the center of the bolt from the head side, far enough to reach the center of the brg(maybe 1.5"). Then drill in from the side in 2 or 3 places . Then put a angle zerk fitting in it. Then it could be greased easilly.

This may be hard to do and I don't know how much it would weaken the bolt.

2 things wrong:

Would definitely weaken the bolt, which considering the small diameter of the bolt (10mm) and that that this bolt has the weight of the bike plus any impacts to the suspension supported across it laterally, seems like a bad idea to hollow it out. If the bolt did happen to sheer off your rear suspension would be [edit 'cause I had the directions backwards] free to move wherever it wants.

But it wouldn't work to get grease into the bearings anyway unless you also drilled corresponding holes in the inner bearing races (spacers). Otherwise you'd only be greasing the inside of that spacer. I suppose it would be possible to drill small diameter holes in the spacer and then somehow chamfer or de-bur the inner edges, but it could also cause some issues for those needle bearings rolling over the holes.

 

[FJReady]

What if we drill a 1/16" hole down the center of the bolt from the head side, far enough to reach the center of the brg(maybe 1.5"). Then drill in from the side in 2 or 3 places . Then put a angle zerk fitting in it. Then it could be greased easilly.
This may be hard to do and I don't know how much it would weaken the bolt.

I think the issue here is that you wouldalso have to drill through the bearing inner race in order for the grease to get to the needles (Bearing). otherwise you're just lubricating the bolt hole. Drilling the hole through the center of the bolt isn't impossible, but it isn't easy either. My biggest concern would be the loss, although small, of the strength of the bolt, especially the area in the head where the zerk would go. That would certainly introduce a stress riser in the head very close to the transistion from bolt shank to the head. Not recommended on what I consider a critical item...

I did my relay arm service yesterday. I think it was the fourth time. Maybe its the familiarity, but its about a two hours job now. Three bolts and the center stand is out of the way. Four more and the relay arm is out. I have an overhead winch in my garage so supporting the bike for this service is also easy. I'm resigned to the fact that good maintanence of this item is going to cost me a couple hours every other year.

 

[FJReady]

ah, the old parallel post trick!

 

[Fred W]

Beat you by a full 10 minutes!! You are getting kind of, erm... rusty, Rusty.

So what do you think of the cutaway bracket idea? Just looking at it I can't decide if that bracket actually has very much in the way of a load on it.

I should probably just suck it up and get myself a nice electric powered winch to mount in my garage ceiling like yours. Part of the non-enjoyment of doing that job with the traditional black iron pipe stand is you have to work around, sometimes even lying on top of, the legs and feet of the stand.

Edit - Oh crap. There's the damn oil delivery truck. There goes another 4 benjamins!!

 

[08FJR4ME]

Beat you by a full 10 minutes!! You are getting kind of, erm... rusty, Rusty.

So what do you think of the cutaway bracket idea? Just looking at it I can't decide if that bracket actually has very much in the way of a load on it.

I should probably just suck it up and get myself a nice electric powered winch to mount in my garage ceiling like yours. Part of the non-enjoyment of doing that job with the traditional black iron pipe stand is you have to work around, sometimes even lying on top of, the legs and feet of the stand.

Edit - Oh crap. There's the damn oil delivery truck. There goes another 4 benjamins!!

Only 4? I got hit up for almost 6 and it didn't even fill the tank. Fred your avatar says it all.

Dave

 

[SkooterG]

Beat you by a full 10 minutes!! You are getting kind of, erm... rusty, Rusty.

So what do you think of the cutaway bracket idea? Just looking at it I can't decide if that bracket actually has very much in the way of a load on it.

I should probably just suck it up and get myself a nice electric powered winch to mount in my garage ceiling like yours. Part of the non-enjoyment of doing that job with the traditional black iron pipe stand is you have to work around, sometimes even lying on top of, the legs and feet of the stand.

Edit - Oh crap. There's the damn oil delivery truck. There goes another 4 benjamins!!

Only 4? I got hit up for almost 6 and it didn't even fill the tank. Fred your avatar says it all.

Dave

So move!

 

[dcarver]

Edit - Oh crap. There's the damn oil delivery truck. There goes another 4 benjamins!!

Wow, that fjr must burn a LOT of oil!

 

[Fred W]

Beat you by a full 10 minutes!! You are getting kind of, erm... rusty, Rusty.

So what do you think of the cutaway bracket idea? Just looking at it I can't decide if that bracket actually has very much in the way of a load on it.

I should probably just suck it up and get myself a nice electric powered winch to mount in my garage ceiling like yours. Part of the non-enjoyment of doing that job with the traditional black iron pipe stand is you have to work around, sometimes even lying on top of, the legs and feet of the stand.

Edit - Oh crap. There's the damn oil delivery truck. There goes another 4 benjamins!!

Only 4? I got hit up for almost 6 and it didn't even fill the tank. Fred your avatar says it all.

Dave

My wife calls for a fill whenever we go down 150 gallons. She doesn't like those $600 surprises.

 

[road runner]

What if we drill a 1/16" hole down the center of the bolt from the head side, far enough to reach the center of the brg(maybe 1.5"). Then drill in from the side in 2 or 3 places . Then put a angle zerk fitting in it. Then it could be greased easilly.

This may be hard to do and I don't know how much it would weaken the bolt.

2 things wrong:

Would definitely weaken the bolt, which considering the small diameter of the bolt (10mm) and that that this bolt has the weight of the bike plus any impacts to the suspension supported across it laterally, seems like a bad idea to hollow it out. If the bolt did happen to sheer off your rear suspension would be [edit 'cause I had the directions backwards] free to move wherever it wants.

But it wouldn't work to get grease into the bearings anyway unless you also drilled corresponding holes in the inner bearing races (spacers). Otherwise you'd only be greasing the inside of that spacer. I suppose it would be possible to drill small diameter holes in the spacer and then somehow chamfer or de-bur the inner edges, but it could also cause some issues for those needle bearings rolling over the holes.

Yeah, what you said. Don't know what the hell I was thinking. Forgot about the inner race. Plus I didn't think messing with that bolt was a good idea anyway.

I also have a gantry made from pipe for lifting the bike, so R&R of the centerstand is no big deal.

 

[yamafitter]

So far any attempts to remove the centerstand on my AE to service the relay arm have met in failure. I made up gantry to allow the rear end to hang and I have the shock and swingarm removed so there is lots of room to work. My problem is the lack of clearance with the exhaust system. I have the mufflers removed and the exhaust mount bolts that are located under the footrest also removed. There is some flex in the exhaust system but not nearly enough to remove the front centerstand bracket bolts.

Right now I am thinking my only option is to remove the exhaust header but I did not really want to have to go that far. Is there something I'm missing here? Also if I go and reverse the centerstand bracket bolts if I ever get that far I'm a little worried about the bolt rubbing on the exhaust pipe on the left side. Right now there is barely enough room for the bolt head on that side.

This job has turned into a clusterfuk of Bust's proportions.

 

[Canadian FJR]

The exhaust will flex out of the way. When the bolt goes back, I needed a washer or two so it did not touch the exhaust. Good luck.

Canadian FJR

 

[Fred W]

Billy,

Try to flex the end of the exhaust downwards while removing those PITA center stand bolts. Then by wiggling and finagling the bolts upwards you should be able to get them out. Just got to do that a second time 'cause I reversed them (back to normal direction) when I put the Holeshot header on last year (for only 6 months)

 

[Queensland Ken]

So what do you think of the cutaway bracket idea?

I haven't had an issue since grinding my bracket away, just a bit of a pain in the butt to do it.

I really can't find an excuse now not to maintain the relay arm.

No hoisting the bike, removing headers, or fiddling with the center stand bracket bolts

 

[Panman]

If it bothers you to flex the Headers just loosen the lower radiator mount and it flexs forward a1/2 inch maybe but just enough to loosen the header bolts. (of course this means the plastic lowers are off)

I just used my 3/8 breaker bar with the right size Allen on it with the bar set at the forty five degree detent and just backed off the Allen Head Cap Screw a few turns. (this adds an hour loosening and tightening laying upside down but oh well)

The headers drop easily down and no worries about bending while flexing.

A lot of of folks can flex things no problem, me I just usually break them!

 

[yamafitter]

... A lot of of folks can flex things no problem, me I just usually break them!

When I flex the exhaust pipes down I may have room to get the left side off ....

But there is just not enough flex in the exhaust to get clearance for the right side ....

Looks like I will have to pull more tupperware and loosen the header bolts to get the exhaust to drop some more. What a complete PITA this has turned out to be.

 

[Auburn]

... A lot of of folks can flex things no problem, me I just usually break them!

When I flex the exhaust pipes down I may have room to get the left side off ....

But there is just not enough flex in the exhaust to get clearance for the right side ....

Looks like I will have to pull more tupperware and loosen the header bolts to get the exhaust to drop some more. What a complete PITA this has turned out to be.

that is what I had to do. Besides, i really don't want to put that much pressure on the header studs and gaskets. I think it is a recipe for an eventual exhaust leak.

 

[Panman]

And don't forget to put them in the other way!

 

[yamafitter]

... A lot of of folks can flex things no problem, me I just usually break them!

When I flex the exhaust pipes down I may have room to get the left side off ....

But there is just not enough flex in the exhaust to get clearance for the right side ....

Looks like I will have to pull more tupperware and loosen the header bolts to get the exhaust to drop some more. What a complete PITA this has turned out to be.

that is what I had to do. Besides, i really don't want to put that much pressure on the header studs and gaskets. I think it is a recipe for an eventual exhaust leak.

And don't forget to put them in the other way!

I am going to be doing valve checks after getting the rear of the bike back together so pulling the lower fairing is not going to add anything to the job I was not already planning. Note that both Canadian FJR & FredW who say that you can just flex the exhaust out of the way both ride those POS antique Gen I's. The exhaust system on those clunkers are probably made out of recycled toilet paper rolls.

Anyways thanks for the tip since it will save me from having to completely remove the headers.

 

[SkooterG]

Why not cut them off as many have done and replace with new bolts?

 

[yamafitter]

Why not cut them off as many have done and replace with new bolts?

I'm going to look at that option today and see if I can get my high-speed die grinder with a cutoff wheel in at the bolt heads.