Rotella T6 causing clutch drag and hard shifting?

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Anyone tried Royal Purple?
I wouldn't put that $hit in my lawn mower...previous industrial experience with extensive oil analysis and failures directly attributable to the lubricant. No thanks.

YMMV
bye.gif


--G

 
Anyone tried Royal Purple?
I wouldn't put that $hit in my lawn mower...previous industrial experience with extensive oil analysis and failures directly attributable to the lubricant. No thanks.
YMMV :bye:

--G
Really?? I thought that was supposed to be high speed low drag expensive cool $hit. Like Amsoil on steroids! Maybe that's all just hype. I mean an oil label company would never exaggerate!
 
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"Fred is dead on with the cold kerchunk... pull in the clutch and a gentle blip to break the clutch loose quick for the first shift into gear.

Cold oil, on a big multiplate clutch like that thats been pressed together all night is gonna have some stiction. I always blip before the first click into gear, and get no kerchunk at all (unless i dont...then i do)."

I always start my FJR while in 1st gear. Before the first start of the day I always shift to 1st gear and then roll the bike backwards out of the garage. This breaks loose the clutch plates after the bike has been sitting overnight.

Typically the plates aren't stuck all that much anyway. They break loose quite easily with a small tug on the handlebars.

I don't like to hear and feel the transmission being shifted into 1st when the engine's running and the bike's not moving. If you're moving slowly coming to a stop then it's OK -- no problem.

I've used Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 for years with good results. I don't need synthetic oil since I never operate the engine when the temperature is below 45 degrees.

 
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I don't need synthetic oil since I never operate the engine when the temperature is below 45 degrees.
I'd only be riding ~ 6 months of the year if I followed that rule. Some of the best riding of the year is in the late fall (before the snow flies) and it is often sub 45 degrees. Still, I find that the bike starts and runs just fine on plain ole' 15W40 dino diesel motor oil when kept inside (even an unheated) garage at night. My 1st gen owners manual says to use only 20W40, so I figure I'm 5 W's ahead. ;)

 
Love these oil threads...... ever notice that most of the folks with problems are using non-m/c specific oils?...... and that Rotella dino 15W40 seems to work ok..... and that most brands of m/c oils like Motul/BelRay are too expensive?

I'm in the middle.... never a problem with Amsoil and when bought by the case, can be had for $10-11 a litre/quart.

 
and when bought by the case, can be had for $10-11 a litre/quart.
I'm confused.

Is that an argument in favor or opposed to buying a particular brand?

It seems that oil is like religion:

“We must respect the other fellow's religion but only in the sense and to the extent that we respect his theory that his wife is beautiful and his children smart.”

H. L. Mencken

 
If you're stuck on M/C specific oils, many of those here are upwards of $20 a quart..... Synthetics cost more, I just found Amzoil at half that, that's all. I absolutely will support you using whatever you want to, even if it causes clutch/shifting problems that I don't have.

 
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If you're stuck on M/C specific oils, many of those here are upwards of $20 a quart..... Synthetics cost more, I just found Amzoil at half that, that's all. I absolutely will support you using whatever you want to, even if it causes clutch/shifting problems that I don't have.
Gotcha, I was comparing to FredW's post of $20 per gallon for Yamalube...but you have to buy it 4 gallons at a time.
 
If you're stuck on M/C specific oils, many of those here are upwards of $20 a quart..... Synthetics cost more, I just found Amzoil at half that, that's all. I absolutely will support you using whatever you want to, even if it causes clutch/shifting problems that I don't have.
Gotcha, I was comparing to FredW's post of $20 per gallon for Yamalube...but you have to buy it 4 gallons at a time.
and the shipping cost was $69.27 for UPS ground

 
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I am switching to bacon grease. I started saving it two days ago and suspect that I will have enough to use by summer.

I see now that there are advantages to not riding as much as I want. I don't have to change the oil as often. I am saving so much in oil, tires and gas that I may just leave the thing parked.

 
I am switching to bacon grease. I started saving it two days ago and suspect that I will have enough to use by summer.
I see now that there are advantages to not riding as much as I want. I don't have to change the oil as often. I am saving so much in oil, tires and gas that I may just leave the thing parked.
Get yourself a second motorcycle and don't ride it and you could save even more!
 
If you're stuck on M/C specific oils, many of those here are upwards of $20 a quart..... Synthetics cost more, I just found Amzoil at half that, that's all. I absolutely will support you using whatever you want to, even if it causes clutch/shifting problems that I don't have.
Gotcha, I was comparing to FredW's post of $20 per gallon for Yamalube...but you have to buy it 4 gallons at a time.
and the shipping cost was $69.27 for UPS ground
GAH! I didn't get that far!!!
 
If you're stuck on M/C specific oils, many of those here are upwards of $20 a quart..... Synthetics cost more, I just found Amzoil at half that, that's all. I absolutely will support you using whatever you want to, even if it causes clutch/shifting problems that I don't have.
Gotcha, I was comparing to FredW's post of $20 per gallon for Yamalube...but you have to buy it 4 gallons at a time.
and the shipping cost was $69.27 for UPS ground
GAH! I didn't get that far!!!
You guys are helpless...

How about buying it for $16.79 a gallon. Buy 6 and get free shipping over $100? clicky

6 gallons would only last, what... 30k miles?

 
If you're stuck on M/C specific oils, many of those here are upwards of $20 a quart..... Synthetics cost more, I just found Amzoil at half that, that's all. I absolutely will support you using whatever you want to, even if it causes clutch/shifting problems that I don't have.
Gotcha, I was comparing to FredW's post of $20 per gallon for Yamalube...but you have to buy it 4 gallons at a time.
and the shipping cost was $69.27 for UPS ground
GAH! I didn't get that far!!!
You guys are helpless...

How about buying it for $16.79 a gallon. Buy 6 and get free shipping over $100? clicky

6 gallons would only last, what... 30k miles?
Well, that make alot more sense...(6) gallons for $100.74 is way better than $142.31 for (4) gallons.

The funny thing is that Partspak wants $69.27 to ship (4) gallons and Motosport wants just $8.00 for the same (4) gallons...what's up with that????

 
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How about buying it for $16.79 a gallon. Buy 6 and get free shipping over $100? clicky 6 gallons would only last, what... 30k miles?
But thats 20w-50 i didnt think you guys could run that in that cold weather up there....

 
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How about buying it for $16.79 a gallon. Buy 6 and get free shipping over $100? clicky 6 gallons would only last, what... 30k miles?
But thats 20w-50 i didnt think you guys could run that in that cold weather up there....
It will pour and flow roughly the same as 20W40 oil does at cold temps. And that is what is recommended for 1st gens

I only used the 20W50 as an example since that is what is called for in the latest (2nd and 3rd gen) owners manuals. And I'm sure the bike will run fine of 20W50 even in the chilly northern weather. Just don't start flogging it until the oil comes up to temp.

But if you want to get Yamaloob 10W40 it is the same price.

 

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