Parts For Sale SOLD: STS Harness for Gen II FJR1300 (one only) $10 plus shipping

[RiderJoe]

I made a Smart Turn System plug-and-play harness that connects to the STS module, and between a Gen II FJR1300's existing connectors in its wiring harness. The original instructions were posted by @DesignFlaw (Tim) at https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/sts-smart-turn-system-installation.169414/post-1338417. I asked for, and received Tim's permission to make this harness based on his design (thanks Tim!), using the extra 13-position Sumitomo connector I ordered from Eastern Beaver in my original order. After successfully installing the harness using the first connector on my '06 FJR (about three months ago), I thought that I would like to help out another Gen II FJR rider with a harness made from the second connector.

The only difference between my harness and this one is that on mine I wired the STS connections directly into the 13-position plugs, as Tim described. I made this harness with connectors to plug into the STS module's factory connections using bullet and spade connectors, so no cutting and splicing is needed to integrate it. I love using the STS module, and the fact that if it ever goes bad (which I hope it won't), I can just remove the harness to restore the bike's wiring to its original condition by simply unplugging it, and removing the foam pads from the turn signal switch housing. The exact STS module's model number I installed is B06XD71KSW, and the terminal connections fit that model's connectors (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Turn-System-automatic-cancelling/dp/B06XD71KSW)

I am not looking to make a profit on this project (actually, quite the opposite). I would only like to help another rider, cover the cost of the parts ($10) and shipping to wherever the interested party is. Please send me a P.M. if you are interested - we can discuss the details, figure out the shipping cost, etc. I will take responses in first come, first served order. I hope that sounds fair.

.

 

[TooManyBikes]

Thanks for posting. PM Sent

 

[allrider]

NIce work! Thanks

 

[Low Level FJR Pilot]

Has anyone done this for the Gen III. I've searched hi and low on the forums for a good instruction with parts callout to no avail.

 

[TooManyBikes]

The harness arrived! Thanks!!

 

[allrider]

Has anyone done this for the Gen III. I've searched hi and low on the forums for a good instruction with parts callout to no avail.

Does anyone have a source for the connectors on a gen 3?

 

[dman]

I made a Smart Turn System plug-and-play harness that connects to the STS module, and between a Gen II FJR1300's existing connectors in its wiring harness. The original instructions were posted by @DesignFlaw (Tim) at https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/sts-smart-turn-system-installation.169414/post-1338417. I asked for, and received Tim's permission to make this harness based on his design (thanks Tim!), using the extra 13-position Sumitomo connector I ordered from Eastern Beaver in my original order. After successfully installing the harness using the first connector on my '06 FJR (about three months ago), I thought that I would like to help out another Gen II FJR rider with a harness made from the second connector.

The only difference between my harness and this one is that on mine I wired the STS connections directly into the 13-position plugs, as Tim described. I made this harness with connectors to plug into the STS module's factory connections using bullet and spade connectors, so no cutting and splicing is needed to integrate it. I love using the STS module, and the fact that if it ever goes bad (which I hope it won't), I can just remove the harness to restore the bike's wiring to its original condition by simply unplugging it, and removing the foam pads from the turn signal switch housing. The exact STS module's model number I installed is B06XD71KSW, and the terminal connections fit that model's connectors (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Turn-System-automatic-cancelling/dp/B06XD71KSW)

I am not looking to make a profit on this project (actually, quite the opposite). I would only like to help another rider, cover the cost of the parts ($10) and shipping to wherever the interested party is. Please send me a P.M. if you are interested - we can discuss the details, figure out the shipping cost, etc. I will take responses in first come, first served order. I hope that sounds fair.

View attachment 374.

I am interested in one of your harnesses for the STS for my 2008 FJR. Are you still making/shipping them?

 

[RiderJoe]

Hi @dman ! I am sorry to say, but I only made two harnesses out of the two connector sets I got from from Eastern Beaver. I ordered two, because they come with the right amount of pins, and I was worried that I wouldn’t have enough pins if I mess up. I didn’t mess up, and was able to make two sets of harnesses. One is in my bike, and I sold the other one for what it cost me in parts.

 

[Sunnyorlando]

Has anyone done this for the Gen III. I've searched hi and low on the forums for a good instruction with parts callout to no avail.

I installed an STS on my ’18. I didn't have the harness that is being discussed here, but I did use connectors all the way around so if I wanted to remove it, all I would have to do is unplug the STS and replug the bypass wires.
Doing the installation one by one wire at a time with connectors works just as well. While it may take a little longer this way, in reality putting into time into creating the harness if you have to do it yourself, then the time is up front instead of on the bike.

If there was enough demand for this, I'd make the harnesses. But making a one-of here and there is just not very effective.

 

[RiderJoe]

I agree, @Sunnyorlando ! The nice thing about making and using the plug-and-play harness (at least for my Gen 2), was that I was able to do the whole wiring on a well lit workbench comfortably, making sure that all connections were correct and secure. Then, yes, I had to take off the bike's fairing, but the electrical work was was just disconnecting a coupling, and snapping the harness between the two disconnected ends. And, the best part is that the harness did not require a single splice or tap in the bike's original wiring loom. Reversing the procedure would be very simple too - just remove the harness from the two ends of the original wiring, and snap those back together. (Of course, the bracket you make to hold the STS module and the foam discs from the handle bar's switch need to be removed as well.) So, in short, I am glad that I installed the STS, and it has been working well for me ever since. No more signal blinking for miles.

Some may say that bikes don't need signal cancellation - use your thumb to cancel it. Yes. I agree. My first bike didn't have self-canceling signals, and I had that opinion myself. My second bike had it, and that is where my habit (and opinion about it) broke. The Gen 2 FJR doesn't have the feature again, and even though I tried to remember to always turn off the signal manually, there were times when I didn't - until someone brought my attention to it. Not a safe practice.

 

[Sunnyorlando]

I agree, @Sunnyorlando ! The nice thing about making and using the plug-and-play harness (at least for my Gen 2), was that I was able to do the whole wiring on a well lit workbench comfortably, making sure that all connections were correct and secure. Then, yes, I had to take off the bike's fairing, but the electrical work was was just disconnecting a coupling, and snapping the harness between the two disconnected ends. And, the best part is that the harness did not require a single splice or tap in the bike's original wiring loom. Reversing the procedure would be very simple too - just remove the harness from the two ends of the original wiring, and snap those back together. (Of course, the bracket you make to hold the STS module and the foam discs from the handle bar's switch need to be removed as well.) So, in short, I am glad that I installed the STS, and it has been working well for me ever since. No more signal blinking for miles.

Some may say that bikes don't need signal cancellation - use your thumb to cancel it. Yes. I agree. My first bike didn't have self-canceling signals, and I had that opinion myself. My second bike had it, and that is where my habit (and opinion about it) broke. The Gen 2 FJR doesn't have the feature again, and even though I tried to remember to always turn off the signal manually, there were times when I didn't - until someone brought my attention to it. Not a safe practice.

I agree on the splicing, and I have made harnesses for other applications for the same reason. Just didn't for this one. When and if I do remove it, it's a matter of just plugging in the wires back i to each other after removing the unit, as I made specifically that way - just in case it had issues it would be easy to bypass.
It's a nice feature and allows you to concentrate on the ride. I ride with others who may have the blinker on for miles on end.
My previous bike was a Goldwing and it had the feature, and that where I got used to it.
On a side note - where did you located the unit? How sensitive (or not) is it to lane changes?

 

[Bobnos]

I'd spend $20 - 30 for a plug and play harness. Wonder why sts doesn't offer one

 

[RiderJoe]

It is just a guess, but likely because there are so many different makes and models of bikes out there, making a harness for each would not be practical - if a harness can be made at all. Also, maybe because of liability concerns too? After all, even the harness would alter the original electrical system at the safety level. If they don’t make harnesses, the owner or installer needs to take the responsibility for wiring alterations. STS cannot be held responsible.

 

[RiderJoe]

I agree on the splicing, and I have made harnesses for other applications for the same reason. Just didn't for this one. When and if I do remove it, it's a matter of just plugging in the wires back i to each other after removing the unit, as I made specifically that way - just in case it had issues it would be easy to bypass.
It's a nice feature and allows you to concentrate on the ride. I ride with others who may have the blinker on for miles on end.
My previous bike was a Goldwing and it had the feature, and that where I got used to it.
On a side note - where did you located the unit? How sensitive (or not) is it to lane changes?

I made an “L” shaped bracket from a 2” Home Depot corner brace by cutting one leg short, and mounted the STS on the long leg of it. I then attached the short end of the bracket to one of the left side headlight mounting bolts, so the unit sits (tightly) in the space next to the left headlamp in the fairing. Lane changes are working, but if you switch lanes slowly, the signal may not cancel. Still, it won’t blink for more than 20 seconds. Corner brace

 

[Sunnyorlando]

I'd spend $20 - 30 for a plug and play harness. Wonder why sts doesn't offer one

Well, I can imagine that the cost is studying each bike and getting the specific connections for each would not be cost effective. It's not a standard connection and the are so many different bikes even within the same brand. Let say however that they were to concentrate on the top 20 or 30 likely models to be targets, it would still require quite a bit of research, and getting all the different types of connectors - some.of which may be proprietary.
If the get that far...then they have to send them to china for manufacturing to make them affordable, not good, just affordable.
Then the Chinese copy them and sell them for a fraction. And there goes that idea...

 

[richardsutton]

I installed an STS on my ’18. I didn't have the harness that is being discussed here, but I did use connectors all the way around so if I wanted to remove it, all I would have to do is unplug the STS and replug the bypass wires.
Doing the installation one by one wire at a time with connectors works just as well. While it may take a little longer this way, in reality putting into time into creating the harness if you have to do it yourself, then the time is up front instead of on the bike.

If there was enough demand for this, I'd make the harnesses. But making a one-of here and there is just not very effective.

I'm in process of building a short P & P harness for my 2017 FJR to insert into the Sumitomo connector under the black nose cover which carries indicators, display menu, cruise control and headlights. I doubt whether there is a switched live in any of the 11 terminals in this connector so could I ask which switched live you tapped into? Presumably the running lights or dipped beam would be suitable but there might be something closer to the Sumitomo connector.
Thanks
Richard

 

[RiderJoe]

I made harnesses for Gen II bikes which have the swithched power in the 13 pin Sumitomo connectors. I don’t have first-hand experience with Gen III models, but I recall reading about it in another post. That said that power had to come from elsewhere for that installation. I would try tapping into some lead that get energized with the ignition key in the ON position. So, maker lights, horn, fairing cubby lock are all possible options. The headlight may not be the best source, because that one gets power after the engine starts.

 

[richardsutton]

I made harnesses for Gen II bikes which have the swithched power in the 13 pin Sumitomo connectors. I don’t have first-hand experience with Gen III models, but I recall reading about it in another post. That said that power had to come from elsewhere for that installation. I would try tapping into some lead that get energized with the ignition key in the ON position. So, maker lights, horn, fairing cubby lock are all possible options. The headlight may not be the best source, because that one gets power after the engine starts.

I've spent some more time with the multimeter and the Gen3 wiring diagram and it appears that the Blue/Red wire which runs to the handlebar indicator switch actually leaves the 11 pin connector on the bike side as a Brown wire. It's strange but the other 10 wires all carry the same colours right across the connector.
I've checked with the multimeter and it carries the full battery current when the ignition is switched on and, in the guise of the Brown wire, appears to feed battery positive to the screen motor relays so it presumably cannot be "flashing" 12V. This is good as it means that I can get the 12V from the same wire which is already going into the ST2 box. Anyway, that's what I'll try first as I'm already breaking into that wire.

 

[Bobnos]

When you finalize, post some pics and instructions, or make some connectors and sell them. I'm first on the list of your customers!

 

[richardsutton]

When you finalize, post some pics and instructions, or make some connectors and sell them. I'm first on the list of your customers!

I'll return with some pics and details for fitting the ST2 to the Gen3 once I get things sorted.