Torque Wrench Advice?

[blackarrow]

The last torque wrench I used years ago was well worn and was not very good to begin with. It was the type which had a pointer to indicate the torque force on a scale by the handle. I never really trusted it.

Having just ordered sliders it is as good as time as any to invest in a new torque wrench. I want to tighten things down to spec, and anyway the soft alloys on bikes have always made me a bundle of nerves, living in constant fear of stripping threads.

I would appreciate recommendations on torque wrenches; types, sizes, capacities, and brand names to trust and avoid.

Thanks in Advance.

 

[stormrider]

this is what I have

https://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

 

[HaulinAshe]

DO NOT EXPECT TO USE TORQUE VALUES ON THE SLIDERS!

The threads are typically a very low percentage and in many cases will not tolerate the torque value specified in the manual. You can certainly use a torque wrench on the side motor mount bolts. But let the "feel" be your guide to stop if the torque wrench has not clicked and things are still turning.

Be sure to use some blue Locktite on the threads and just be very careful.

Oh, to be ON topic...

Harbor Freight sells some decent, yet cheap torque wrenches. They are better than no torque wrench at all.

 

[blackarrow]

DO NOT EXPECT TO USE TORQUE VALUES ON THE SLIDERS!
The threads are typically a very low percentage and in many cases will not tolerate the torque value specified in the manual. You can certainly use a torque wrench on the side motor mount bolts. But let the "feel" be your guide to stop if the torque wrench has not clicked and things are still turning.

Be sure to use some blue Locktite on the threads and just be very careful.

Oh, to be ON topic...

Harbor Freight sells some decent, yet cheap torque wrenches. They are better than no torque wrench at all.

Thanks for the advice. I don't have the shop manual yet, but it's at the top of my list. The slider instructions indicated 35 for torquing. Is that about right, or too high?

 

[Shadow]

The slider instructions indicated 35 for torquing. Is that about right, or too high?

I would torque to 29 lb, a lot do and never have a problem.

After your first ride just check the bolts but I have never known any to come loose.

 

[HYCLE]

This might help if you have markings on the bolts.

 

[mptruck]

If using thread locker, I'm told you need to account for that and subtract from the stated torque settings (I assume if no thread locker was originally used at the factory?), else you risk over torqing. Anyone know how much you should subtract for a ft-lb rating or an inch-lb rating? Is there a rule of thumb percentage?

 

[ELP_JC]

Let me throw my own opinion here. I sometimes do not follow torque recommendations. In fact, I only put 60 lb/ft on the triple nut aluminum nut, when it calls for 85. And I always just torque down drain bolts and such by feel.

However, I DID torque to 40 lb/ft (55 Nm) my GSG German sliders on my '07, which is the factory spec, I believe. Those are big a$$ bolts that easily can take it, plus they hold the motor against the frame, reducing vibrations if properly torqued. But more importantly, we're ADDING a use that would put significantly more stress than the original torque value was designed for, namely being able to take a 650-lb direct hit. And believe me, 40 lb/ft is not much at all, and 35 even less; I wouldn't put any less than 35. Just my $0.02. Good day folks.

JC

 

[HaulinAshe]

Let me throw my own opinion here. I sometimes do not follow torque recommendations. In fact, I only put 60 lb/ft on the triple nut aluminum nut, when it calls for 85. And I always just torque down drain bolts and such by feel.
However, I DID torque to 40 lb/ft (55 Nm) my GSG German sliders on my '07, which is the factory spec, I believe. Those are big a$$ bolts that easily can take it, plus they hold the motor against the frame, reducing vibrations if properly torqued. But more importantly, we're ADDING a use that would put significantly more stress than the original torque value was designed for, namely being able to take a 650-lb direct hit. And believe me, 40 lb/ft is not much at all, and 35 even less; I wouldn't put any less than 35. Just my $0.02. Good day folks.

JC

I'm a big proponent of using torque wrenches and torque values. But the right side bolt where sliders go has some real issues. It's not the bolt that's the problem, it's the engine case threads. They are typically a very poor fit for the commonly available bolts and that side is easily stripped. Please be careful and balance the combination of feel and torque settings while tightening those bolts.

My $.02

 

[ELP_JC]

But the right side bolt where sliders go has some real issues. It's not the bolt that's the problem, it's the engine case threads.

Hey Jeff, I'm curious about what you know on this issue. And what's the difference between left and right side? Both sides felt equally tight on my bike, and also both seem to have at least an inch of threads in there. And I obviously implied the engine case threads with the bolt comment; that big size (and length) shouldn't have any problem holding 40 lb/fts IMO.

I'm simply saying that's not the place to reduce factory torque, when we're asking for that small area to withstand such an impact. If the sliders can't be secured to 40 lb/ft of torque, I wouldn't install them on a 650-lb beast in the first place; rather pay for plastic than possibly a new frame/engine case. And even at 40 lb/ft, I'm still a bit worried about my frame and engine case, to be honest; I don't know if they're beefy enough to take a 650-lb hit from vertical on a 1 sq. in. area, and if anything was to happen, we surely be on our own, as Yamaha wouldn't cover it. Just wanted to clarify my point.

Now, since I value your opinions even when we have a different one on this issue, what's your take on tightening the top triple tree nut to 60 lb/ft, when it calls for 85? Please explain why, if you will. Thanks buddy.

JC

 

[rivgar]

I have one of these, it's a Craftsman 3/8" click indicator torque wrench.

https://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...ecemldffidfni.0

It has served me very well for many years.

I prefer the 3/8" wrench when working on bikes because many of the torque values are in the lower range, and the aluminum parts are rather torque sensitive.

There are many horror stories out there about stripped oil drain plugs etc. A good torque wrench can save your ass

 

[Zorlac]

"It was the type which had a pointer to indicate the torque force on a scale by the handle."

If this is the torsion bar type of wrench like this https://tinyurl.com/28jcgy then I wouldn't worry about its accuracy, this type of wrench is pretty accurate if you don't mistreat it and bend the pointer bar. In fact, the person that calibrates the torque wrenches where I work just checks these with a steel yardstick and weights as there is nothing to calibrate.

The main drawback of this tool is that the scale is not always easy to read when working on something.

I use this wrench to calibrate my other 2 clicker types by coupling them together with the proper adapters.

Unless you spend serious money on a clicker type I wouldn't blindly trust it, that's JMHO.

 

[black mamba]

I've got a couple of the Sears wrenches and I find them to be adequate. But because I am also tuned in to doing things to required aircraft standards, I mostly use a new electronic Snap-on torque wrench. It is fairly pricey at around $300.00 but it is very accurate. When it comes to working on my FJR I have no qualms at all about following the factory listed torque values. The only exception to that, in my mind, is the oil drain plug. 31 lbs / ft is too much there IMO.

I would recommend you have your wrench calibrated at least once a year if you do any critical work, more often than that if you do alot of such work. My airplane mechanic has his done monthly. I do my Snap-on once a year.....I don't use it very often, nor in really critical work, so that is sufficient for me.

 

[donaldb]

This is the dork wrench I use (1 of 2). It is a quality tool made in America and it is the best for the price I have been able to find. I did not buy mine from this site nor do I work for Wright Tools, but I do have a fair # of there tools and I have always found them to be some of the best out there on the market for the price...........FWIW

 

[FJR Gary]

I bought this one from Amazon a few months ago when I needed one that would go to 85 lb-ft when I replaced the triple clamp nut with the Techmount stem stand for my GPS.

 

[dbvolfan]

I always heard to subtract ~25% from the torque values if using some kinda lubricant on the threads. Can anyone confirm?

I too had an issue putting the threads into the RH side of the bike while installing some Moto Sliders. They seemed to encounter quite a bit of resistance compared to teh left but they snugged right up and 8 months later I havent had any issues <fingers crossed>

 

[v65]

I have one of these: Split Beam Torque Wrench.

The split beams have fewer moving parts than the standard clicker torque wrenches, and you don't have to set the dial back to zero when you're done. So far I haven't had the problem of the wrench not clicking when it's supposed to, so my unscientific assessment is that it gives a more positive feel than the clicker I had before.

Here's their webpage: precision instruments.

 

[wyowags]

I've got a PROTO that I've had for years. They make very good, but pricey, tools. Used to be American made and I haven't heard anything to the contrary.

Not to hijack but where do you guys get yours calibrated?

 

[black mamba]

I send mine back to Snap-on via one of their field sales reps.