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Gave her some new blood.........15/W50 MOBIL 1 and BOSCH 3323 long filter.
Just over 5,000 miles, gonna chnage it every 5,000 unless I put in Dino oil then every 3,000.

Even though Mobil 1 isn't full synth oil it's still very good.

Easiest oil change I ever did on a bike.
Why would you change it every 3k with standard oil? Where in any of the guides do you get a different spec for synthetic vs semi-synthetic vs conventional oil? The service interval is 4k, and I bet we could go 5k or longer without issue. Why spend the extra money on synthetic oils that have absolutely no benefit besides giving certain buyers some sense of false security that their not paying too much for the same thing??

Right you are AJ buttrying to explain it to non believers is a waste of time. I remember years ago MCN did a very in depth oil review that showed the dino oil especialy Delo and Rotela ranked right up there with the synthetic. I use synthetic in customers air cooled tractors cause it gives them wood and I do think it lives better in the high heat low horse power loud pipe environment. Otherwise it's Delo 400 in everything else.

 
Nothing... But it's replacement is heading south to Floorida right now.. an offer to good too refuse was made.

think maybe the next bike will be a??????

 
Spring finally arrived, 21C (70F) here today.

Insured the bike for 7 months and was informed I qualify for the 'seniors pleasure discount' (sounds like something you would expect at a house of ill repute) anyway, a month more than last year and $200 less!! I'm lovin' this retirement thing more and more.

I was keen to see if the two grand invested over the winter on the Traxxion AK-20 fork upgrade, Penske shock, tapered-roller head bearings and new RP2s was worth it. Took me a while to get use the precise handling, I guess I'd got used to the bike going where it felt like and having to wrestle it back. Basically, it now corners like it's on rails. And, best of all, I now know it wasn't just me being a crappy rider!
smile.png


Happy Al.

 
Gave her some new blood.........15/W50 MOBIL 1 and BOSCH 3323 long filter.

Just over 5,000 miles, gonna chnage it every 5,000 unless I put in Dino oil then every 3,000.

Even though Mobil 1 isn't full synth oil it's still very good.

Easiest oil change I ever did on a bike.
Why would you change it every 3k with standard oil? Where in any of the guides do you get a different spec for synthetic vs semi-synthetic vs conventional oil? The service interval is 4k, and I bet we could go 5k or longer without issue. Why spend the extra money on synthetic oils that have absolutely no benefit besides giving certain buyers some sense of false security that their not paying too much for the same thing??
Synthetic oil is more durable than dino oil, it's not "the same thing".

You can do extended intervals with a FULL Synthetic, but I'm not going that far with 5,000 miles anyway. Doesn't matter if the Yamaha manual tells you that or not. You never seen oil analysis that shows a Full Synth protects better than a dino oil? Your engine stays cleaner and runs cooler in the extreme heat.

I've had 2 different mechanics tell me that when they tear down motors with over 100,000 miles on them they can tell which ones used Synthetic oil because they're cleaner.

Anyway let's not turn this into an oil thread, you change yours when you want and I'll chnage mine when I want and we'll both be happy.

 
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Waitin for the glue to dry on the Fenda Extenda...

And.. trying to figure out why my FSM says 6Nm or 4.3ft-lb for the fender bolts..when 6Nm is really 53.1 in-lbs, or 4.425 ft -lb

I know it's splitting hairs...nd over just 1.5 in-lbs... but some other figures I'm reading are a ft-lb off. I don't get it.. why not do the proper math?

 
I, too, just glued on a Fenda Extenda! (Does anyone actually ever attach one using the supplied screws?)

But I'm also waiting for a machinist friend to do some custom work on the fork hydraulic 'lock' cups, so I can install the AK-20 cartridges and re-assemble the forks. After which I can finish putting all the tupperware back on the bike.

Hopefully it'll be insured by this weekend.

bwv, I wonder why the FSM torque specs for the oil drain bolt are so high. The thing has a crush washer, and you can feel it 'crush' long before the specified torque.

I've decided some of the specs and procedures in the FSM are downright silly.

 
Dropped that pig of POS Gen II. For the fourth fucking time in the 17,000 miles I have owned it. I can't believe it. I dropped my Gen I FJRs twice in 355,000 miles.

WTF?

grrr.gif


 
Dropped that pig of POS Gen II. For the fourth fucking time in the 17,000 miles I have owned it. I can't believe it. I dropped my Gen I FJRs twice in 355,000 miles.
WTF?

grrr.gif
Balance issues? Not uncommon in a very dry climate like AZ. The rocks in your head, those little crystals in your inner ear may be the cause. Try standing on one leg for 30 seconds, if that's easy, do it with your eyes closed. If you feel any dizziness at times, like when standing up quickly, that's another sign, possibly caused by dehydration. I really don't think it's a GEN2 issue.
no.gif


BTW, it's another one of those aging issues. If it gets worse, a couple therapy sessions will put everything back to normal.

 
Gave her some new blood.........15/W50 MOBIL 1 and BOSCH 3323 long filter.

Just over 5,000 miles, gonna chnage it every 5,000 unless I put in Dino oil then every 3,000.

Even though Mobil 1 isn't full synth oil it's still very good.

Easiest oil change I ever did on a bike.
Why would you change it every 3k with standard oil? Where in any of the guides do you get a different spec for synthetic vs semi-synthetic vs conventional oil? The service interval is 4k, and I bet we could go 5k or longer without issue. Why spend the extra money on synthetic oils that have absolutely no benefit besides giving certain buyers some sense of false security that their not paying too much for the same thing??
Synthetic oil is more durable than dino oil, it's not "the same thing".

You can do extended intervals with a FULL Synthetic, but I'm not going that far with 5,000 miles anyway. Doesn't matter if the Yamaha manual tells you that or not. You never seen oil analysis that shows a Full Synth protects better than a dino oil? Your engine stays cleaner and runs cooler in the extreme heat.

I've had 2 different mechanics tell me that when they tear down motors with over 100,000 miles on them they can tell which ones used Synthetic oil because they're cleaner.

Anyway let's not turn this into an oil thread, you change yours when you want and I'll chnage mine when I want and we'll both be happy.
Ahh Mobile 1 is one of the TRUE synthetic oils around. PAO oils are truly full synthetic. PAO base stocks contain fully saturated, hydrogenated molecules and are free of wax and other impurities.

 
O.K. lets stay on subject! There is enough oil threads to go around.

Road the black widow all week sofar. 32 chilly degrees on the way in this morning. She purred like a kitten. I ordered all the parts to rebuild the shocks last night and will be doing that soon I hope.

Dave

 
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O.K. lets stay on subject! There is enough oil threads to go around.

Road the black widow all week sofar. 32 chilly degrees on the way in this morning. She purred like a kitten. I ordered all the parts to rebuild the shocks last night and will be doing that soon I hope.

Dave

No need to stay on topic, really since this bad boy of a thread is already located in NEPRT, an R10 free zone.

But I assume that you meant that you'll be rebuilding the forks? If you really meant the shock, what special tools did you need to get?

I'm still waiting to get my shock back from GP and I'll be rebuilding my forks (for the first time @75k miles) when it gets here. Seals, bushings, springs and GP valve kits. Seals and bushings are still good as far as I can tell, but I figure at 75k it's just a matter of time and a few more miles before they won't be, so now is as good a time as any.

 
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The 'new to me' Corbin Canyon seat arrived yesterday. Compared to my 'stocker' it feels like a marble slab, but has nice support. I'll give it a good test ride today.

 
Gave her some new blood.........15/W50 MOBIL 1 and BOSCH 3323 long filter.

Just over 5,000 miles, gonna chnage it every 5,000 unless I put in Dino oil then every 3,000.

Even though Mobil 1 isn't full synth oil it's still very good.

Easiest oil change I ever did on a bike.
Why would you change it every 3k with standard oil? Where in any of the guides do you get a different spec for synthetic vs semi-synthetic vs conventional oil? The service interval is 4k, and I bet we could go 5k or longer without issue. Why spend the extra money on synthetic oils that have absolutely no benefit besides giving certain buyers some sense of false security that their not paying too much for the same thing??
Synthetic oil is more durable than dino oil, it's not "the same thing".

You can do extended intervals with a FULL Synthetic, but I'm not going that far with 5,000 miles anyway. Doesn't matter if the Yamaha manual tells you that or not. You never seen oil analysis that shows a Full Synth protects better than a dino oil? Your engine stays cleaner and runs cooler in the extreme heat.

I've had 2 different mechanics tell me that when they tear down motors with over 100,000 miles on them they can tell which ones used Synthetic oil because they're cleaner.

Anyway let's not turn this into an oil thread, you change yours when you want and I'll chnage mine when I want and we'll both be happy.
Ahh Mobile 1 is one of the TRUE synthetic oils around. PAO oils are truly full synthetic. PAO base stocks contain fully saturated, hydrogenated molecules and are free of wax and other impurities.
Sent you a PM regarding Mobil 1.

 
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