What did you do to your FJR today?

[Niehart]

Mine are also snake skin.

 

[FJRPittsburgh]

Did you guys buy the snake oil too?

 

[creg-ny-baa]

Need you ask?

 

[AdamK]

Did you guys buy the snake oil too?

No, but I did buy the complete bike snake wrap. I was getting tired of the blue......

 

[Uncle Hud]

Somewhere out in the woods of north Georgia, there are naked snakes -- thanks to you guys.

 

[FJRPittsburgh]

What restroom are they permitted to use?

 

[DeSudet]

Washed it, enlisted the boys' help to dry since they have experience actually working at a car wash and detailing cages. Needless to say, they didn't know what to do with all the nooks and crannies on the FJR. Then I went for a 3 hours ride for Moto Tag in 30+ MPH winds. Good thing I washed the bike, otherwise I wouldn't have known how much new dust collected. The little visor over the dash is nothing more than a shelf for dust and all those little nooks and crannies are full of mud. Guess I'll be rinsing her off again in the morning before work.

 

[ionbeam]

The old oil that came out of my engine looked almost like the new oil from the bottle that replaced it during my 600 mile service. The pumpkin gear oil looked much better than it did on my '04 and there was way less black smelly stuff on the bottom plug. All the drain plugs were tightened to 180 ft/lb. The oil filter was on so tight that my filter wrench crushed the filter removing it; it's the kind that grips proportionally harder with the force being applied. The plug on the pumpkin didn't inspire confidence that it won't leak. Brakes & clutch reservoirs are full. The steering head isn't loose, switches all work and engage at an appropriate travel distance. The TB sync will probably wait until this weekend, it's not critical when it gets done.

Of greater significance, I'm going through all the important fasteners on my bike. It came from the dealer missing some fairing hardware, some plastic 'rivets' weren't installed correctly and the two screws that hold on the two windshield decorative covers were cross threaded and would not come out. Not very confidence inspiring at all.

I have already installed the Givi SR357 rack and 47L trunk with carbon fiber insert. I have also installed T-Rex engine and bag guards, TechSpec paint protectors, tank protector, Real Time Industries reflective strips on the bags and a Yamaha Touring Windshield. I have temporarily installed my GPS and radar detector, I'm waiting for Dave WynPro to start making mirror/light brackets again then I will install all the lights, electrical stuff and FZ1 mirrors. I have a spare set of OEM seats in a box ready to go to Russell.

The only thing that I haven't gotten yet are nice days on the weekend so I can ride the durn thing

 

[rbentnail]

They really are JIS screws. And it really does make a difference.
I like to apply a tiny dab of grease to the threads of the screws that I know I will be removing periodically. Makes it easier all the way around.

I use a dab of anti seize on those I remove periodically too. The tank screws has some but the heads were too far gone as and planned for, as I mentioned. Once pooped loose they backed right out no problema.

The foot peg rubber screw? Been in place since installed at the factory. So it's not surprising one stuck. Think of all the carp that sprays up on the underside of the foot peg. Yuck!!

 

[Niehart]

The old oil that came out of my engine looked almost like the new oil from the bottle that replaced it during my 600 mile service. The pumpkin gear oil looked much better than it did on my '04 and there was way less black smelly stuff on the bottom plug. All the drain plugs were tightened to 180 ft/lb. The oil filter was on so tight that my filter wrench crushed the filter removing it; it's the kind that grips proportionally harder with the force being applied.

When we changed the oil on Curly Joe's [Rich] '16' we found the same thing on his filter. Crushed the filter trying to remove it because the dang thing was screwed on so tightly.

 

[hppants]

Ionbeam - If you refuse to take any technical advice from the likes of me, I certainly won't be offended. After all, my track record speaks (VOLUMES) for itself.

However, I feel compelled to inform you that if you continue to torque your drain plugs to 180 ft. pds, the sooner or later, you will likely strip your threads.

YMMV.....

 

[Cav47]

The old oil that came out of my engine looked almost like the new oil from the bottle that replaced it during my 600 mile service. The pumpkin gear oil looked much better than it did on my '04 and there was way less black smelly stuff on the bottom plug. All the drain plugs were tightened to 180 ft/lb. The oil filter was on so tight that my filter wrench crushed the filter removing it; it's the kind that grips proportionally harder with the force being applied.

When we changed the oil on Curly Joe's [Rich] '16' we found the same thing on his filter. Crushed the filter trying to remove it because the dang thing was screwed on so tightly.

The one time I had a dealer change the oil, I had to pound a screw driver through it to get enough leverage on it to remove it. What a mess that makes. And the oil is a little warm coming out.

 

[ionbeam]

Ionbeam - If you refuse to take any technical advice from the likes of me, I certainly won't be offended. After all, my track record speaks (VOLUMES) for itself.
However, I feel compelled to inform you that if you continue to torque your drain plugs to 180 ft. pds, the sooner or later, you will likely strip your threads.

YMMV.....

:lol:

Err, um, ...... I found the drain plugs felt like they were torqued to 180 lb/ft by Yamaha factory (maybe more). I reinstalled the plugs just sufficiently tight. The oil plug was tight enough that I could have spun the motorcycle on the center stand from the force of my wrench if I hadn't braced the bike with my hand.

The way the drain plugs broke free was almost like they had an adhesive or locker under the shoulder of the bolt, it wasn't like the threads were in tension from high torque, once the bolt moved a tiny amount all the pressure was off.

 

[Spork]

Canyon cages front and rear. highway pegs too.

The rear footrest mounting bolts appeared to have red thread locker on them (put blue on during reinstall).

Got tires (PR4) to put on but ill wait until later in the season

 

[DeSudet]

The old oil that came out of my engine looked almost like the new oil from the bottle that replaced it during my 600 mile service. The pumpkin gear oil looked much better than it did on my '04 and there was way less black smelly stuff on the bottom plug. All the drain plugs were tightened to 180 ft/lb. The oil filter was on so tight that my filter wrench crushed the filter removing it; it's the kind that grips proportionally harder with the force being applied.

When we changed the oil on Curly Joe's [Rich] '16' we found the same thing on his filter. Crushed the filter trying to remove it because the dang thing was screwed on so tightly.

The one time I had a dealer change the oil, I had to pound a screw driver through it to get enough leverage on it to remove it. What a mess that makes. And the oil is a little warm coming out.

Ummm... Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't oil changes supposed to be done cold? Other than running the engine for a minute to stir it up a bit, which I wouldn't imagine would heat things up that much.

 

[El Toro Joe]

The old oil that came out of my engine looked almost like the new oil from the bottle that replaced it during my 600 mile service. The pumpkin gear oil looked much better than it did on my '04 and there was way less black smelly stuff on the bottom plug. All the drain plugs were tightened to 180 ft/lb. The oil filter was on so tight that my filter wrench crushed the filter removing it; it's the kind that grips proportionally harder with the force being applied.

When we changed the oil on Curly Joe's [Rich] '16' we found the same thing on his filter. Crushed the filter trying to remove it because the dang thing was screwed on so tightly.

The one time I had a dealer change the oil, I had to pound a screw driver through it to get enough leverage on it to remove it. What a mess that makes. And the oil is a little warm coming out.

Ummm... Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't oil changes supposed to be done cold? Other than running the engine for a minute to stir it up a bit, which I wouldn't imagine would heat things up that much.

I've always changed mine when the engine was warm...

 

[ionbeam]

In this Forum there will never be consensus on anything, even on which direction the sun rises

So, IMO, to speed up the oil draining and perhaps get a little more complete draining the oil should be warmed up first. If you want to pull the drain plug and wait (and wait) you can drain it cold too. I like to delude myself that the quicker flowing oil does a better job of getting heavier particles to flush out than with a cold, slow flowing oil.

I've tried the screwdriver method for really stuck filters and only succeed in tearing the filter apart. If an oil filter is properly installed a strap type filter wrench should be fine. My '15 oil filter installed by Yamaha Factory was ridiculously tight. Over the years I have collected several types of oil filter wrenches. The wrench I used this time has a brand name of: OEM.

The harder you turn the wrench the more the cap is forced to close the two sides. The leading edges of the wrench sides digs into the filter and crushes indentations that creates all the gripping you need.

 

[Uncle Hud]

DeSudet posted: Ummm... Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't oil changes supposed to be done cold? Other than running the engine for a minute to stir it up a bit, which I wouldn't imagine would heat things up that much.

Warm oil drains a LOT faster than cold oil. Hot oil will burn your fingers during the last few turns removing the drain plug.

 

[JustinNck1]

I changed my oil, slightly warm. I'm too lazy to get on the ground though.

 

[El Toro Joe]

^^^Yeah...well that just ain't fair^^^