FJR lean angle

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Again, I have a penske rear shock and have had the forks rebuilt with heavier springs.

I am 5' 8" and weigh around 185#'s. And yes, I ride pretty damn fast in the forest area's around here. Due to the road surfaces and on the gas/brakes riding...tires only last from 806 miles to around 3,000. Gonna be burning up another set of tires at SFO in a couple of week too. Come on out and play if you can! It is gonna be a hoot!

I realize that technique has a lot to do with it and that the FJR is not a super sport. I get it. I have thoroughly enjoyed the FJR for the last 4 years and 75K miles and It does well as a fast two up machine also. However, when the time comes for a new ride, I am certainly going to be researching other posible rides before a buying decision is made. There is more out there than just the FJR and the sport touring class. I might get another FJR...I might not.

So the purpose of this thread was to see if there were any comments on other bikes that might provide similar benifits to the FJR yet provide better lean angle. Certainly the congregation has some first hand experience or knowledge of fast well handling bikes that you can tour on...other than the FJR. Initially I did not want to add to much info to avoid influencing the discussion.

The Motus looks nice but please don't mention it as I do not have $40,000. Almost any other bike should be fair game though.

Thanx and cya at SFO.

 
I thought you wanted to go fast. I have yet to meet a BMW K Rider that understands the need to twist the throttle. All the K Series Beemers around here are just moving roadblocks.
It's the rider, not the K-Series. My old K-bike was a great performer. And riding buddies with bigger engines and/or greater skill could run circles around me. The K-series engines have great potential for sporty riding.

In addition to looking at K-series BMW's, a great sport-tourer with more emphasis on 'sport' was my old VFR750. A hot performer without any mod's. Though some tweaking could be needed to make if more comfy for long rides.

 
I test rode a VFR1200 today. Nice bike, good engine (a bit more vibey than I expected) seemed pretty light on its feet too. The lack of leg room killed it for me though. I'm 6'2" with a 34 inch inseam and it folded me up pretty good. The salesman I was working with said he had a 29 inch inseam and it wasn't an issue for him. The seat is very narrow in the front so the reach to the ground shouldn't be a problem. There is the little bitty tank though so range is short for a bike you want to tour on and of course wind protection isn't nearly as good as the FJR. It had Heli-Bars installed and reach to the bars was no problem for me.

It isn't the bike for me but you might take a look at them. There are tremendous deals on them as it's been a poor seller.

BTW, I don't know if you remember me or not but I rode with you (Glory Racing) and Scott at the STN National back in 08. I was on my K1200S at the time. I'm planning on bringing the FJR down next month to do it again.

 
How about the Triumph Sprint GT? More on the 'sport' side of sport-touring.

 
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The FJR, even with custom suspension, has some limits on ground clearance. If you want to push hard in the twisty bits you have to hang off with good technique and truly work on reducing lean angle. Lots of riders think they are hanging off, and they are and they look good, however they are also pushing the bike down at the same time. The Lee Parks Total Control course is very effective at teaching proper body positioning, It helped me a bunch. If I drag hard parts now it is usually because I am not paying attention to technique.
this.

if you want to go fast and do it safely then you have to use good technique regardless of the bike. a "sometimes" approach will net the same loss of clearance regardless of the bike you try. if you don't want to get off into the inside of the corners on a given day, then slow down on that day. an upgraded suspension (mine's Wilburs and it's not stock like someone seemed to be saying) will help on nearly any production bike.

maybe you should be considering tack days and staying within your sight line and keeping it to 80% when on the street?

 
FWIW - I'm with ya on the lean angle GloryRacing. I notice that most of the guys chiming in on this live in Flatlandistan of some sort and have no phuching idea what they are talking about. I work on my technique constantly, but there's only so much you can do two up. The FJR is no wheres near the limit of grip when the peg feelers touch down, no matter how good your body position is, and equally important, how well you throttle through the apex. The best advice I can give you is quit buying the soft and expensive aluminum peg feelers, go to the hardware store and buy some M10x20 bolts and grind away.

Edit - suspension helps a little, but doesn't create miracles, but then, you already know that.

 
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I notice that most of the guys chiming in on this live in Flatlandistan of some sort and have no phuching idea what they are talking about.
We haven't all lived in Flatlandistan forever. Some of us have lived in other parts of the world. I'll forgive you anyway.

My first thought was suspension. Check.

Second thought weight. 185# ... check.

Third thought .. cornering lines. Take a look at how you apex ... are you making the corners tighter than they need to be?

Fourth thought .. jealous that you don't live in Flatlandistan.

Fifth thought .. I think this is the winner .. get a second sporty leany bike, like an older SV650. Have your fun on that, tour on the FJR. Or just tour on the SV. I've done it a few times and I wouldn't be disappointed to do it again.

 
The FJR does have limited lean angle and custom suspension and technique compensate for this but it is still a limiting factor. If I ride with a mixed group of good riders I have to hang off more to compensate.

While not exactly Sport Touring bikes the adverture touring bikes, BMW GS, Suzuki V-Strom, Yamaha S10, Ducati Multistrada, and several of the Triumphs, all have more lean angle than the FJR and still tour okay. I know from experience that a BMW can be very fast on mountain roads. I have a V-Strom 650 for a second bike. While down on power it tours well and is more fun on tight roads than the FJR. I added a used V-Strom to the garage and kept the FJR for less than it would have cost to get a new bike to replace the FJR.

 
FWIW - I'm with ya on the lean angle GloryRacing. I notice that most of the guys chiming in on this live in Flatlandistan of some sort and have no phuching idea what they are talking about. I work on my technique constantly, but there's only so much you can do two up. The FJR is no wheres near the limit of grip when the peg feelers touch down, no matter how good your body position is, and equally important, how well you throttle through the apex. The best advice I can give you is quit buying the soft and expensive aluminum peg feelers, go to the hardware store and buy some M10x20 bolts and grind away.

Edit - suspension helps a little, but doesn't create miracles, but then, you already know that.
If I knew how to ride a fooking bike I would chime in...but since I'm from Wheaton...the land of straight lines and sarcasm, I won't. I obviously don't push it as hard as you guys....so I don't have a problem with peg feelers grinding at all. So I guess I have th eright bike for me...tours all day and goes as fast in the curves as I want it.

Therefore, my lean angle isn't limited at all by the FJR

 
I have an idea. Ride only with people from Flatlandistan. Then you won't have to lean as far to keep up / stay ahead.

 
Guys!...Sport Touring bikes are what they are...S-P-O-R-T T-O-U-R-I-N-G Bikes! It's a best of all worlds all around great bike, but it has it's limits if your a highly aggressive twistie rider.

As I said in my post on page one of this thread, if you want a true super sport bike that also doubles as a touring bike you can put hard bags on just about anything these days. Get a Hayabusa and go ride 190mph and have lockable hard storage to boot with no lean angle issues. But don't expect a bike to do more than it's been designed to do!

SANY0041.jpg


 
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after wearing off my feelers and "reshaping" my center stand, i upgraded to titanium feeler pegs. seem to hold up fine.

I haven't upgraded the stock suspension yet.... though i've tweaked it for my weight as much as i know how... (210lbs)

i ride well within the limits of the bikes capabilities and still touch down. alot

i've scuffed a knee on this thing. The FJR can do it, whatever you ask of it... as long as i do my part know my tires (PR2's)

dragging a two brothers is at my limit. i think the weight of the bike and traction limits of the any street tires are nearing an 'all things bad' vector point when down that far... plus, unlike feelers, they are way to spendy to drag on the ground.

sure, it's not tucked in as tight as my sportbike, but the reason i went with the FJR over the Kawi, Honda, and BMW was this thing has a sport bike soul in it that loves to carve and strafe...

personally don't mind pushing to the hard parts limits. it is a gauge for me and reminds me that there are limits and to behave myself.

i love this bike...

 
after wearing off my feelers and "reshaping" my center stand, i upgraded to titanium feeler pegs. seem to hold up fine.

i ride well within the limits of the bikes capabilities and still touch down. alot

i've scuffed a knee on this thing.
Well if that's the case you won't actually enjoy riding with me. If you ride like this I'll be waaaaaay to slow for ya. You'll just have to wait & meet me at the end point of the route and have a beer while I try to catch up. :(

 
Well if that's the case you won't actually enjoy riding with me. If you ride like this I'll be waaaaaay to slow for ya. You'll just have to wait & meet me at the end point of the route and have a beer while I try to catch up. :(
Same for me. I have over 100K miles, all fun, on my '05 and the peg feelers are unscathed. :meh:

I've seen some very fast FJR riders who do not scrape hard parts, so the OP is on the right track looking at a different bike if he is pushing it that hard.

Hayabusa with luggage seems like a good idea.

 
I test rode a VFR1200 today. Nice bike, good engine (a bit more vibey than I expected) seemed pretty light on its feet too. The lack of leg room killed it for me though. I'm 6'2" with a 34 inch inseam and it folded me up pretty good. The salesman I was working with said he had a 29 inch inseam and it wasn't an issue for him. The seat is very narrow in the front so the reach to the ground shouldn't be a problem. There is the little bitty tank though so range is short for a bike you want to tour on and of course wind protection isn't nearly as good as the FJR. It had Heli-Bars installed and reach to the bars was no problem for me.

It isn't the bike for me but you might take a look at them. There are tremendous deals on them as it's been a poor seller.

BTW, I don't know if you remember me or not but I rode with you (Glory Racing) and Scott at the STN National back in 08. I was on my K1200S at the time. I'm planning on bringing the FJR down next month to do it again.
Yep, the vfr is on the watch list. Just need to find a preowned so I can ride it a bit to get a real read. I also like the fact that they are selling affordably as well. I could care less if they are not popular. More go for the dough and the fact that it works for me is all I am interested in.

Glad you are gonna make it back down for some more twisty ridin at SFO. Looking forward to it! Hey, maybe you can help me with my technique, since that is what most members are wanting to talk about.

Thanx for the suggestions and excited about getting to ride/visit with you again.

 
The FJR, even with custom suspension, has some limits on ground clearance. If you want to push hard in the twisty bits you have to hang off with good technique and truly work on reducing lean angle. Lots of riders think they are hanging off, and they are and they look good, however they are also pushing the bike down at the same time. The Lee Parks Total Control course is very effective at teaching proper body positioning, It helped me a bunch. If I drag hard parts now it is usually because I am not paying attention to technique.
this.

if you want to go fast and do it safely then you have to use good technique regardless of the bike. a "sometimes" approach will net the same loss of clearance regardless of the bike you try. if you don't want to get off into the inside of the corners on a given day, then slow down on that day. an upgraded suspension (mine's Wilburs and it's not stock like someone seemed to be saying) will help on nearly any production bike.

maybe you should be considering tack days and staying within your sight line and keeping it to 80% when on the street?
YES...technique and suspension is important. That has been mentioned and I understand.

I have never done a track day and probably will not do one. Although almost everyone I ride with says I should do it...I can't really afford another hobby right now.

And I very rarely even run as high as 80% when on the streets. Even though there are some roads around here that cut through the forest and are as safe as a public road can be...good sight lines, paved shoulders, zero driveways, etc...I aint gonna push that hard. Running at 70% for me is plenty fast enough...although it does still drag hard parts sometimes on the ole FJR. ;) Any bike suggestions?

 
The best advice I can give you is quit buying the soft and expensive aluminum peg feelers, go to the hardware store and buy some M10x20 bolts and grind away..
That is good advice! I have now had to replace both footpegs as the threads for the feelers were hosed. I am gonna have the original pegs drilled and tapped for a larger bolt and definately go that route. Got to be better than the $14 a piece OEM feelers.

You still coming down for the SFO ride?

 
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